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| Hello, that is considered one of our (nearly) each day tastings. Santé! |
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December 19, 2021
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This time once more, we’ll have each armagnacs and cognacs. You may additionally anticipate a quite dazzling verticale of cognac round Christmas, going approach right down to Bix Beiderbecke’s time. Come on, Bix Beiderbecke!… We’ll do that alternatively this time, cognac, armagnac, cognac, armagnac, cognac, armagnac, cognac (I feel they acquired the image, S.)
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Nineteen Seventies advert, ‘In his personal approach, he is an artist’. Whisky makers have reduce the ‘in his personal approach’ half. ->
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Bisquit ‘V.S.O.P.’ (40%, OB, Cognac Nice Champagne, +/-1985) 
Precisely the cognac within the advert. Made by the well-known outdated home Bisquit-Dubouché. Some very outdated bottles of Bisquit-Dubouché should be discovered right here and there, together with vintages from the nineteenth century, however cautious with the 1811s… Color: amber with copper tones. Nostril: very raisin-dominated, with some stewed melons and peaches within the background. Will get then grassier and drier, however raisins preserve operating the present. It is a fairly good entry-level cognac on the nostril. Mouth: fairly good certainly, perhaps only a tad indefinite and presumably obscured and boiséed. Raisins and peaches, touches of liquorice, some muscovado and sweetened black tea. Will get then actually dry. End: somewhat brief, drying, with somewhat cardboard and extra black tea. Feedback: innocent, drinks fairly nicely in any case these years. steppingstone, let’s say…
SGP:451 – 79 factors. |
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Vignobles Fontan ‘Hors d’Âge’ (42%, Bas-armagnac, +/-2020)
All juices they’ve married right here have been 10 years outdated or extra. It is pure ugni blanc from their very own property, Domaine de Maubet, which is situated within the Gers. Color: amber. Nostril: whiffs of varnish, pine, fern and parsley at first, wooden glue, a contact of acetone, then raisins and prunes, plus a quite earthy liquorice mingled with some Chocolate. A pack of skinny mints, skinny mints being highly regarded in the home. Mouth: basic, nearly old-school piney, chocolaty and raisiny armagnac, very dry, very a lot on bitter chocolate and tea a. End: medium, good, with somewhat menthol and at all times this dryness. Burnt sugar within the aftertaste (demerara).Feedback: not a fruity one in any respect. I quite take pleasure in this type too.
SGP:361 – 79 factors. |
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Rémi Landier ‘Particular Pale Sigle Barrel Lot 2012’ (45%, OB, cognac, 900 bottles, +/-2020) 
You may consider that 900 bottles from a single barrel are loads, however this was not precisely ‘a barrel’, it was a 450l cask. Rémi Landier is a wonderful home, situated within the Fins Bois. Color: gold. Nostril: contemporary orchard fruits in abundance this time, round ripe greengages (which we love!) and plum jam, with whiffs of dandelions and wisteria plus a average quantity of liquorice. Some meadow honey too, and remarkably few raisins. Mouth: a nice rusticity, some grassy liquorice, with notes of williams pears this time, a tiny contact of litchi and roses, then somewhat hay jelly and inexperienced tea. Superb. End: lengthy, grassier, on fruit peel (pears) and a wee little bit of Zan (mint-flavoured liquorice). Extra tea tannins within the aftertaste. Feedback: glorious, vivace younger cognac. Goes down very nicely.
SGP:551 – 85 factors. |
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Château de Laubade 1998/2018 (52.1%, OB, Bas-armagnac, casks #98072-98074)
Baco and colombard, from the well-known home Laubade, of which we have already tried two or three wonders recently. There shall be extra older ones, however within the meantime, let’s do this little 1998. Color: golden amber. Nostril: very good. Nail polish, pear cake, mocha, forastero, pine needles, drop of soy sauce, little bit of Spanish ham, roasted pecans, black nougat… Actually very good, whereas I doubt my Vitell will kill it. With water: no issues, extra ham and soy sauce. I suppose you may just about ‘eat’ this one with a fork and knife. Mouth (neat): a good, agency, peely begin, with notes of marc de gewurztraminer at first after which some grittier marc de Bourgogne. Some inexperienced liquorice and some varnishy tannins right here and there. With water: an excessive amount of water would pull too many tannins out, however at +/-45% this candy and bitter combo simply clicks. Spareribs baked in honey sauce, plus mirabelle jam and simply 5 raisins (am I not being intelligent?) End: quite lengthy, grassier, with some mint and a tiny rubbery contact, plus extra fruit peelings. The gewurz is again within the aftertaste, however then once more I am an Alsatian. Feedback: no complains.
SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Giboin ‘L’Essentiel’ (46.5%, OB for cognac-expert.com, Cognac Borderies, 2021)
I’ve at all times had a mushy spot for the Borderies. Giboin are situated in Cherves-Richemont. It is a mix of three casks of ugni blanc, 2002, 2005 and 2009, achieved for the well-known web site cognac-expert.com, a cool place the place whisky lovers would study quite loads about, nicely, cognac. Color: amber. Nostril: quite mushy but tight and compact, beginning fruity and floral (extra oranges than within the others, extra pink bananas as nicely), then geared in direction of spices and tropical deserts. Bananas flambéed, cinnamon rolls, the same old liquorice, chestnut honey, a smidgen of ras-el-hanout… Mouth: tighter, grassier, extra on peelings, leaves, banana pores and skin, certainly chestnut honey, inexperienced pepper, then even touches of stewed spinach that might result in extra rooty earthiness, and even to some saltiness, which isn’t extraordinarily frequent in cognac upon my brief expertise. Unusual, however superb and, I’ve to say, somewhat whisky-like. End: lengthy, quite extra on aniseed and liquorice tea. Pink apples and candy carrots within the aftertaste. Feedback: leaves a wink for whisky of us. Pastis followers resembling yours actually will like it too.
SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Château de la Béroje 1995/2021 (42%, LMDW, Model Française, Bas-armagnac, 300 bottles)
By no means heard of those good of us earlier than. I imply Béroje, not LMDW. They’re situated in Le Hougat, west of Nogaro and in accordance with the photographs on their web site, the place is simply gorgeous. Color: deep crimson amber. Nostril: this one’s way more ‘roasted’, jammy, honeyed, even molassy, some would possibly even name it Macallany (whether or not that is a great factor or not, as much as you). You’d nearly consider it has been aged in PX wooden, or maybe rancio wooden. So, I discover it spectacularly wealthy, with even somewhat tar, even moscatel, prune juice, wealthy rum… Mouth: large extraction, some espresso, chilly cuts, Marmite, Maggi, black nougat, ham, Bovril or Viandox, Jägermeister, liquorice, black Russian tea, Gauloises… So a complete totally different proposition. End: lengthy, salty, bouillony and even varnishy. Drying aftertaste, not the most effective half. Feedback: in all probability somewhat love-it-or-hate-it. I feel I like it… simply the identical because the earlier ones. Forgot to say a giant T-bone steak.
SGP:361 – 87 factors. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Lot 88’ (48.7%, Malternatives Belgium for Artwork Malts, Grande Champagne, 124 bottles, 2021)
Color: amber. Nostril: quite within the type of that heavy-ish Béroje at first, however with this beautiful fruitiness that this now well-known home are well-known for. Melons, peaches, plums… There’s some image varnish too, millionaire shortbread, maple syrup, pecans roasted in honey (strive that and die), after which some mentholy raisins. A fairly good feeling right here, what may go flawed on the palate? Mouth: some wooden varnish for certain, tobacco, bonbons, grenadine syrup, Turkish delights, black pepper, cinnamon… Some oak and a few varnish right here, this certain is not some sylphlike cognac. In a approach, it is a cognac that is quite within the type of an armagnac. Hope I am not ruffling any feathers right here… End: lengthy and really earthy. A sense of getting sucked your cigar. Burnt caramel and pine needles within the aftertaste. Feedback: there are components that I simply adore right here, nevertheless it’s a troublesome boy. Performs together with your lips.
SGP:371 – 86 factors. |
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Aurian 1979/2021 (46.5%, OB, for Wu Dram Clan, Armagnac) 
What’s cool when you will have lovers such because the Wu Dram Clan who would choose some spirits, is that you don’t want to separate the weed from the chaff your self. It is pre-selected, you perceive. Color: reddish amber. Nostril: superior varnishes and plenty of roasted nuts. Pecans as ordinary, but additionally peanuts, macadamias, walnuts… You may add somewhat beef inventory, marrow bouillon, hen soup, sauna oils, asparagus, and the anticipated umami mingling up with some outdated rancio wine… And Cuban cigars. Excessive-rank nostril. Mouth: certain it is tad too meaty/oaky/varnishy, however bear in mind its 40+. The salty soups are stellar, the fruits, nicely, somewhat absent, and the natural liqueurs are fantastic. Inexperienced chartreuse, Underberg, ueber-miso, pine extracts. Will get drier and drier. End: very lengthy, all on probably the most excessive natural liqueurs, with baggage of cloves within the aftertaste. Feedback: excessive? Sure and no. I am able to give up.
SGP:272 – 89 factors. |
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Vallein Tercinier ‘Lot 75 GrapeDiggaz’ (51.7%, OB for Kirsch Import and Wu Dram Clan, Petite champagne, 252 bottles, 2021) 
A grapediggaz, not a gravediggaz, nicely hopefully. Color: darkish amber. Nostril: there’s at all times one thing with Vallein Tercinier. Maybe is it steadiness. On this very case, we’re having fruits stewed in honey, and no single apparent ‘woody’ notes, to not point out varnishes. Peaches in acacia honey, melons in heather, pears in honeysuckle, apricots in manuka. With water: incense, cedarwood, sandalwood, peach skins. Mouth (neat): luminous, coherent, splendidly resinous and mentholy but by no means drying. Some verbena and caraway syrups and liqueurs. I am considering of outdated Bunnahabhain from the Sixties, however please do not ask me why. With water: resins and mints up, leafiness up as nicely, however the expression ‘flirting with the boundaries’ has been invented for this one. Cautious with H2O although, some boastful liquorice would have a tendency to return to the entrance. End: lengthy, on resins, angelica, mint cream and myrtle liqueur. Feedback: very long time not tried an outdated VT (Vallein Tercinier, not Vendanges Tardives!) . Was lacking these. Good stuff.
SGP:461 – 90 factors. |
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We’re lacking an outdated armagnac, are we not…
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Bas-armagnac 1972/2021 (42.7%, Grosperrin for The Auld Alliance Singapore)
Why ought to outdated armagnacs circulate to Singapore? Possibly as a result of a sure Frenchman is on the helm of one of the gorgeous spirits bars on the earth? Would not that be a great motive? However why Grosperrin, who’re throughout the high 5 in… Cognac? I am somewhat misplaced… Color: excellent amber. And why not? Nostril: cellulose varnish and peanut butter, then truffle bouillon. I do know that was brief however truffle bouillon is a complete cluster of aromas in itself. Suppose Bocuse (works higher if you’re French). Mouth: that is extra wine than a spirit. Early twentieth century Yquem, mushrooms, truffles, mosses, cigars, guinea fowl soup, outdated Pauillac, extra truffle soup… The factor known as soupe VGE and past the truffles, the important thing ingredient could be… celeriac. Celeriac is king (or queen) in many aged spirits, it is simply that people wouldn’t be within the know. End: it is extraordinarily uncommon {that a} end could be ‘sweeter’, as finishes are usually ‘drier’. Fairly some outdated mead. Feedback: nice soup.
SGP:362 – 90/91 factors (I will not do that too usually, cross my coronary heart… No Panama hat on my humblest head). |
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