Cognacs – and all the remainder

Otard Dupy & Co Cognac  (OB, -/+ 1900)
A really previous bottle that got here from a job lot of ‘stuff’ I purchased at public sale this yr. The label is gorgeous and notably says ‘England. America. Australia’ on it. Most likely bottled for some type of submarine deal I anticipate… Color: orangey gold. Nostril: undeniably this has light considerably in bottle as the extent wasn’t too nice, however it’s nonetheless displaying some brilliant notes of crystallised orange peels, flower blossoms and honey. Reasonably candy, easy and stylish. Mouth: what’s superb is that what’s clearly hold it alive is the sugar fairly than the alcohol, in all probability nearer to a liqueur than an precise Cognac in some methods. Orange oils, a mixture of lengthy aged Benedictine and Drambuie, very natural, plenty of honey fortified with alcohol and plenty of extra preserved citrus rinds and peels. Not dangerous in any respect, however definitely a barely fragile previous vintage bottle, and a fairly fascinatingly ‘quaint’ type that I am unsure you’d discover commercially out there in the present day. End: brief, candy, natural, honeyed and as soon as once more very a lot in direction of liqueur. Feedback: it is an previous bottle that’s extra anecdotal than for critical sipping. Nevertheless, I am pleasantly shocked, I have to say. It is in all probability drifted a great distance from what it was when freshly bottled so I do not assume we’ll hassle with a rating on this event. Oh, the wonders – and frustrations – of sugar! 
SGP: 840 – no rating. 

Cognac Grande High-quality Champagne (40%, J P Menard et Fils, 2 litres, early Nineteen Seventies)
From a big format 2 litre bottle that they appear to be very keen on in each Cognac and Armagnac. Unsure the proper title in France for a 2 litre bottle, however in Scotland we might say ‘get together measurement’. Maybe that is additionally why there are far fewer previous bottles of whisky than Cognac nonetheless on the market… Color: ruddy amber. Nostril: fairly autumnal with this robust leafy and tobacco vibe, but additionally a sense of an excessive amount of boise. A sticky and barely unnatural sweetness pervades the nostril. There’s additionally some good notes of sultan and milk chocolate as nicely. Mouth: certainly, a bit too ‘over dosed’ I would say, these flavours of straightforward caramel, sweetened espresso and milk chocolate are certain up with the standard tobaccos and sultana flavours. Fairly natural too, however total it is easy and never too fascinating. End: actually, brief and candy. Feedback: completely effective for a celebration I suppose, however this can be a good instance of the kind of Cognac I discover each frustratingly candy and greater than a little bit boring. 
SPG: 740 – 72 factors.

Jas Hennessy & Co X.O. (OB, -/+Thirties)
Color: amber. Nostril: a ravishing aroma that entails peaches, apricots, roses, pollens, leaf mulch, damp pipe tobaccos and cocoa. The definition of class and finesse. I additionally discover tiny notes of hand lotion and plenty of softer darkish fruits. Gorgeous freshness after many years in glass. Mouth: excellent arrival, all on comfortable darkish fruits once more, extra flowers, rosewater, lemon balm, yellow natural liqueurs, mineral oil, hessian, ointments and a fantastically light cocoa be aware. These natural qualities mixed with darker fruit flavours are simply lovely. End: lengthy, with warming spices starting to emerge, extra cocoa, darkish fruits and flowers within the aftertaste and a persistent natural high quality. Feedback: It isn’t solely in whisky the place previous bottles may be excellent. I haven’t got a present bottling of the Hennessy XO at hand for comparability, however from latest reminiscence, I am fairly assured it could be sorely matched in opposition to this previous magnificence. 
SGP: 751 – 90 factors.  

Pierre Ferrand ‘Abel’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, -/+ 2018)
Mentioned to be ‘as much as’ 45 years previous and named after the cellar grasp who distilled it. Color: ruby amber. Nostril: one among these very beautiful and fairly decadent noses that feels extraordinarily damp and mulchy, virtually soggy with cellar should, rancio, tobacco leaf and mild earthiness. Additionally some elegant darkish fruits comparable to sultana and prunes in Armagnac. Mouth: good arrival, regardless of the low ABV, fairly richly on liquorice, treacle, walnut stain and darkish fruit loaf. There’s even a slight salinity that factors in direction of sherry bodegas! Extra walnuts, prunes and strategies of previous leather-based tobacco pouches. End: medium, a little bit bitter, on robust black teas, black pepper and a fairly spice-oriented rancio vibe. Feedback: all very effective and a particularly sippable previous drop – it is simply these similar points with ABV and that nagging feeling of some sugar. 
SGP: 561 – 84 factors. 

Audry XO (40%, OB, High-quality Champagne, -/+ 2015)
Created from round 50/50 mixture of Petite and Grande Champagne and aged between 12 and 30 years. Color: orangey gold. Nostril: I like this considerably completely different and extra expressive type that showcases a tad extra youthfulness. By which I imply many notes of apricots, peaches in syrup, yellow plums, quince and treacle. There’s additionally flower nectars and pollens in abundance. Fairly spectacular, appears like a extra pure and un-sweetened type. Mouth: as soon as once more the youthful elements are a little bit extra assertive, there’s some grippy tannin, earthy black teas, crystallised ginger and citrus rinds, spun sugar and peach syrup. Spectacular weight for 40%. End: good size, orange marmalade, flower honey on brioche, candy plums and nectarine. Feedback: a really effective and well-balanced drop. I discover this barely fruitier and drier type a lot to my liking.
SGP: 551 – 87 factors. 

Domaine Chainier Très Vielle Reserve (40%, OB, Petite Champagne, +/-2020)
Aged for round 30 years. Color: coppery amber. Nostril: I discover this extraordinarily elegant at first, this barely extra elegant rustic high quality that feels very Petite Champagne. Numerous glazed orchard fruits, sultanas, peach stones and touches of walnut wine and yellow Chartreuse. Retains some wonderful freshness with some beautiful notes of orange blossom and pollen. Mouth: good, clear and fairly taut arrival. Some clear tannin, pepper, liquorice root, dried herbs and unlit cigars. There is a robustness right here that is very interesting. End: medium, softer and on leaf mulches, tobaccos and cocoa. Feedback: runs out of steam ever so barely within the end, but it surely’s in any other case a superb and properly charismatic wee drop that appears like a extra pure presentation. 
SGP: 561 – 87 factors. 

Gourry de Chadeville ‘Héritage’ (40%, OB, Grande High-quality Champagne, -/+2015)
Not an excessive amount of information about this one, but it surely seems to be 100% Grande Champagne and round £220 on-line – so in all probability fairly previous. Color: brilliant amber. Nostril: previous certainly, an instantaneous rush of sticky darkish fruits, tobaccos and previous natural liqueurs and extracts. Roots, herbs, cocktail bitters and wee touches of fennel, liquorice and quince paste. Reasonably opulent and direct in type – which I am not in opposition to! Mouth: not fairly as spectacular because the nostril, there is a slight burnt be aware which suggests fairly plenty of sugar, some bitter marmalade, kumquat and pine resins. Looses a few of these classier, extra elegant qualities. End: medium and nonetheless fairly natural but additionally now a bit bitter and cloying. Feedback: the nostril was fairly nice, however the palate falls brief I feel. Fairly an quaint type that simply feels a bit too sweetened for my palate. 
SGP: 641 – 78 factors. 

Hermitage Marie Louise (43%, OB, Grande Champagne, 50 bottles, -/+ 2016) 
Mentioned to be 60 years previous. Color: brilliant amber. Nostril: ah sure, one other territory altogether. Age and Limousin oak brings in rancio and a top quality you would possibly describe as ‘wooden acidity’ (what?). Then there’s these extremely scented notes of furnishings polish, oranges baked in Sauternes, hints of rosewater, pressed flowers and pine resins. Superbly structured and impressively floral. The epitome of a method in Cognac I would characterise as ‘scented’. Mouth: the oak is fairly grippy on arrival. But the entire stays extraordinarily pure, cleanly spicy, completely bitter – bitter natural extracts – leather-based, mineral oils and camphor. Then many wee issues like cedar wooden cigar bins, winter spices, fig jam and umami paste. Given a little bit time extra fruits dominate, sticky preserved fruits, dried apricot, yellow plums and dried mint. Some type of barely extractive unique fruit teas as nicely. End: medium, a warming peppery glow, some natural bitterness once more, shoe polish and extra refined flower and dried fruit notes. Feedback: at occasions fantastically expressive and at different occasions on the delicate facet. It is attractive, however the wooden is just a bit too dominant to go to the 90 mark I feel. 
SGP: 461 – 88 factors. 

Vallein Tercinier 43 yo ‘Lot 75’ (46.9%, Maltbarn, Petite Champagne, 171 bottles, 2020)
Color: orangey gold. Nostril: fantastically brilliant, recent and filled with apricots, peaches, nectarines in honey and yellow mirabelle. In reality there’s fairly pronounced ‘plummy’ fruitiness which ripens in direction of jams and preserves. Add to that a number of apple slices, earth and sultanas and hey presto! Mouth: leaner, harder and extra assertively on freshly baked breads, toasted seeds, cigarette tobacco, dried mint, cumin and blended dried herbs. Some crystallised citrus fruits and a pleasant resinous facet that additionally incorporates some umami, miso vibes and a little bit damp earthiness. End: lengthy, full on citrus fruits, oranges, bergamot, blood orange and deeper, earthier flavours of roots and herbs – even a tad medicinal in some locations. Feedback: excessive class and completely scrumptious. Feels properly rusting and barely rugged at occasions. 
SGP: 661 – 89 factors. 

Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Lot 62’ (40.4%, OB, for Wu Dram Clan, Petite Champagne, +/-2021)
Color: mahogany. Nostril: fantastically unique, gently spiced and opulently fruity. All of the whereas by no means loosing sight of those very elegant and fairly particular earthy and mulch Petite Champagne traits. Numerous aged flower honey, rancio, crystallised unique fruit chunks, extractive tropical fruit teas and touches of previous leather-based and incense. Beautiful nostril! Mouth: a tad extractive up entrance, however these splendidly unique fruit qualities are persistent and are available by on the again of some very pure and bitter darkish chocolate and tannic black tea notes. Pure liquorice root, natural wines and aniseed. In time it good points extra of those leaf mulch and damp tobacco qualities whereas the tannins slacken off barely. End: good size, fairly darkish, damp, tannic, peppery and filled with dried out natural extracts, rancio, furnishings oils and crystallised orange peels. Feedback: A completely beautiful nostril, it is simply the slight dryness on the palate that forestalls it going previous 90 in my guide. Nevertheless it’s a beautiful previous Cognac, little question about it. 
SGP: 661 – 89 factors.

Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Nostalgie’ (45.6%, OB, Grande Champagne, 500 bottles, 2017)
From a mixture of vintages, married in 2008 for an additional 9 years earlier than bottling. Color: deep gold. Nostril: youthful and brisker GC cognac (which might be fairly previous in whisky phrases) extra sturdy and focussed on an excellent mixture of breads, honeys, pressed flowers, tobacco leaf and wee touches of dried apricot and mirabelle. Additionally a wee trace of marzipan and bouillon. Mouth: cabinet spices, inexperienced tea with lemon, natural wines, cocoa powder, eucalyptus bark and extra impressions of dried flowers, crystallised orange peels and linseed oil. The perfect, bitter seville orange marmalade, kumquat and tangerine. End: good size with extra classical honeyed qualities, candy flower nectars, heat brioche, lemon cordial and peach schnapps. Feedback: it is superb how these distillates begin to come alive and sing the second they’re introduced at a correct bottling energy. Extraordinarily quaffable and stylish stuff! 
SGP: 561 –  88 factors. 

Petite Champagne ‘D67 A52’ (49%, Jean Grosperrin for C. Dully, cask #F15, 2020)
One other choice from Grosperrin’s cellars by our mates from Switzerland. What may go mistaken right here? Color: amber. Nostril: splendidly scented, extremely polished and completely poised. Stuffed with light aromas of sultanas, dates, quince and candied blood orange peels. Mentholated tobaccos, liquorice root, fruit loaf and a fantastically herbal-accented rancio. A posh and extremely detailed aroma that I discover completely lovely. Mouth: energy and assertiveness instantly upon arrival, but it surely stays balanced and recent too. There’s spices and energy from the wooden, however these stay in examine with many studded fruit flavours, crystallised unique fruits, citrus rinds, peach stones, almond oils and extra mentholated touches. This rigidity between the spices and the fruits is absolutely what creates magnificence in these sorts of previous, pure energy Cognacs. In time elements of it begin to evolve extra in direction of previous demerara rums. Though, you additionally end up pondering of 1972 Caperdonich at occasions as nicely! End: lengthy, completely spicy, tannic, natural, polished and with many wee earthy, mulchy and bitter touches. Terrific! Feedback: balanced and delightful, with every part as an alternative. Energy, construction, fruit, spice, complexity, rigidity: examine! 
SGP: 561 – 91 factors.

Font-Borne 1950 (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, 375 bottles, -/+ 2015)
Color: mahogany. Nostril: fairly deep and plummy with lots darkish, sticky preserved fruits. Fig compote, damson protect, freshly brewed espresso, hessian material and rancio that comes with very previous balsamic and walnut oil. A fairly splendid nostril that feels fairly elegant, if a little bit restrained. Mouth: simple and stylish arrival, extra espresso, costly darkish chocolate, black miso, Maggi, natural seasonings, pu erh tea and mushroom powder. Some historical Fernet Branca with crystallised citrus peels. It is wonderful and appears like a cohesive entire – I would just say it is missing a little bit of oomph. End: good size, extra darkish fruits, sultana, prunes stewed with spices, even elements that go extra in direction of rustic previous Armagnac at factors. Feedback: I can not shake this sense that I must be having fun with this extra. All the things is as an alternative and there is a wealth of pleasurable ‘stuff’ happening. I simply cannot assist however really feel a Cognac like this could have been bottled at the next ABV. Anyway, I am already a damaged document on this matter. 
SGP: 651 – 87 factors. 

Hermitage 50 yo (44%, OB, cognac, Grande Champagne, +/2019)
From this home that appears to have plenty of older classic and age said bottlings however not an excessive amount of information on origin. Nonetheless, high quality has been fairly excessive so removed from what I’ve tasted… Color: deep amber. Nostril: wealthy and targeting previous leathers, herbs, spices and darkish fruits comparable to sultanas stewed in previous rum, lengthy aged Calvados and peach liqueur. These few additional levels of alcohol make a major qualitative influence on the nostril right here. Mouth: this impression of very previous Calvados comes throughout on the palate at first as nicely. Impressions of apple pips, and lengthy aged apple brandy with liquorice root, verbena and damp mentholated pipe tobaccos. Heading very classically in direction of rancios, plum wine and bitter darkish chocolate. End: good size, if a little bit temporary within the aftertaste. However a stunning earthy dampness, spiciness and extra issues like chocolate and natural bitters. Feedback: precisely what you’d hope for and anticipate from a 50yo Grande Champagne cognac – very elegant stuff that you would be able to imaging quaffing with abandon from an outsized brandy balloon glass. 
SGP: 561 – 89 factors. 

Hermitage 1960 (47%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2019)
Going additional again into Hermitage’s in depth archives… Color: mahogany. Nostril: now we’re actually speaking. A splendidly concentrated and vividly expressive profile. Lengthy aged sauternes, plum wines, rancio, inexperienced walnut liqueur, mentholated tobaccos, natural liqueurs and raisins. There is a mixture of salty earths and cured meats that makes your thoughts wander in direction of Jerez. I additionally discover one thing like sticky toffee pudding – which feels rather a lot nearer to house however very welcome nonetheless. A ravishing, fairly poetic nostril. Mouth: sure, very previous, barely dried out sauternes that has taken on a really leafy edge. This Jerez side continues to be current with some very previous Spanish brandy strategies. Then inexperienced Chartreuse, mushroom powder, wormwood and hardwood resins. Completely bitter and even a tad salty at occasions. End: lengthy, a filled with rancio, mint tea, eucalyptus, concentrated darkish fruits, tobaccos and fine quality darkish chocolate. Feedback: extraordinarily pleasurable and spectacular venerable previous Cognac. 
SGP: 461 – 90 factors. 

Hermitage 1948 (44.4%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2019)
Color: orangey amber. Nostril: noses virtually youthful than the 1960, which appears to occur typically in Cognac. Right here there’s extra pressed flowers, peach stones, unique fruit teas, dried herbs and unlit cigars. Brisker candy wine notes, a lighter rancio profile and extra particular notes of yellow plums, raisins and sultanas. Pleasurable and really lovely. Mouth: lighter in type as soon as once more, many crystallised fruits, bitter natural extracts, earthy darkish teas, umami seasoning powders, mirabelle eau de vie and touches of hessian, bitter cocoa and eucalyptus bark. Some fir resin and walnut extract as nicely. End: good size, resinous, natural, properly bitter and displaying some fairly exact wooden spices like liquorice root, nutmeg and clove. Feedback: very, superb, however I feel I want the cohesiveness of the 1960 by a single notch. 
SGP: 561 – 89 factors. 

Hermitage 1923 (43%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2019)
We’re going again far in time right here. Unsure how lengthy this is able to have spent in cask vs glass… Color: deep amber. Nostril: fuzzy peaches, pot pourri, pressed wild flowers nonetheless holding pollens, golden sultanas and fine quality Seville orange marmalade. In time there’s some extra natural and rooty qualities, liqueurs, bitters, extracts and even some medicines. A sappiness from the wooden that’s properly mentholated and balances nicely with softer spices and damp earthiness. A harmonious and really beautiful nostril. Mouth: there is a fantastic and refined sweetness upon arrival, the entire is on flower honeys, peaches, crystallised fruits, wooden resins, mead and flower nectars. Even wee hints of issues like maple syrup and tea tree oil. Stunning focus and fusion of all these wee flavours and traits. End: lengthy, many wee tertiary earthy, medical, rooty and natural vibes, raisins, aged marsala and liquorice within the aftertaste. Feedback: one other high notch very previous GC. It begins to show these brisker floral and fruit features which, conversely, appear to solely seem (or re-appear) with nice age. 
SGP: 651 – 90 factors.

Grande Champagne N.33-39 (47,4%, Jean Grosperrin for Wu Dram Clan, 2021)
There are usually not many locations you’ll be able to go to order Thirties Cognac that is nonetheless in cask! Color: ruby/amber. Nostril: one other degree. All the things right here is deeper, extra rounded, extra complicated and extra ‘sensual’ (if you happen to’ll excuse me dipping into the Whisky Bible lexicon for a second). A fantastically cohesive nostril that comes with date syrup, fig jam, quince jelly, pomegranate molasses and molten liquorice. You can even add bergamot, citrus cordials, unique fruit teas and a few fairly historical, sophisticated natural liqueurs. Given time there’s additionally layers of tobaccos, darker, earthier teas, flower nectars and pot pourri. Beautiful, can be the phrase! Mouth: a tad greater and extra punchy than the nostril suggests, surprisingly filled with complicated, intricate spices, darkish grained breads, flower honeys, previous madeira, many extra mentholated and natural qualities and probably the most lovely darkish chocolate. This syrupy orange oil and cocktail bitter facet arises over time – virtually like ingesting a really costly quaint. Lemon lozenges, natural throat sweets and marzipan. End: lengthy, clear, tense and filled with bitter chocolate, wooden spices, dried herbs and toasted walnuts. Stays the course to the very finish! Feedback: the difficulty with these very previous Cognacs, is that it’s a must to type of pinch your self from time to time and bear in mind what you might be ingesting. A mode that clearly converges at factors with some very previous whiskies or rums, but finally stays its personal, very lovely, factor. 
SGP: 461 – 92 factors.