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Dwelling
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| Hello, that is one in every of our (nearly) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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December 25, 2021
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Malternatives:
Cognac 1992-1924 for Christmas |
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An increasing number of malt fans at the moment are into cognac as nicely, which does not shock me one bit. The outdated archenemies have buried the hatchet, in any case many belong to the identical multinationals… Now there are various extra small indies in cognac, in the intervening time… An apéritif please…
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Jean Fillioux ‘Très Vieux’ (40%, OB, grande champagne, +/-2018) 
We all know that in whisky communicate, ‘very outdated’ means ‘fairly younger’. It is reasonably the identical in cognac, ‘très vieux’ often that means ‘not fairly the youngest now we have’. Though let’s be sincere, this very one’s additionally a XO, even an XO Additional. Earlier than 2016, the youngest eau-de-vie in an XO needed to be at the least 6, however since 2016 that is turn into 10. Usually, makers would are likely to make you consider that theirs are a lot older than that minimal requirement, whereas they might typically be… proper. Color: deep gold. Nostril: a really recent nostril, beginning with a little bit liquorice and occurring with an entire basket of recent lower fruits, similar to the standard peaches, mangos, starkrimsons, and even pink bananas and litchis. Then we might discover nougat, fudge, maple syrup and distinct whiffs of honeysuckle. Beautiful, recent, elegant. Mouth: completely pretty, very elegant, only a tad feeble at this murderous power. I imply it murders the spirit, definitely not the taster. Previous pinot gris, preserved peaches, peach syrup, cantaloupe liqueur, spearmint, eucalyptus syrup… Sadly it crashes and will get flat. End: very brief. A crying disgrace. Honey. Feedback: they are saying it’s truly 25 years outdated. That reveals, it is fabulous cognac, however the 40% vol. simply do not work anymore by right this moment’s requirements.
SGP:630 – 80 factors. |
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Let’s go vertical whereas staying at Fillioux’ in Juillac-le-Coq…
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Jean Fillioux 1992 ‘La Flèche de Feu’ (43%, Malternatives Belgium, grande champagne, 252 bottles) 
From their single property, Domaine de la Pouyade. 43% certain work higher than 40%. Color: gold. Nostril: brisker but, extra on apples and pears, plums, even calvados, actually. Extra herbs, peelings, lower apples, hay, inexperienced melons this time… And far much less on unique fruits. Mouth: certainly a a lot firmer expression, with extra roots, husks, branches, peelings, grasses… I am discovering much more apples as nicely, which I like (whereas they might preserve the physician away, naturally), in addition to quinces and greengages, that are a few of my pet fruits. Notes of jujubes and even sorb as nicely. Very complicated, behind this slight rustic aspect. The 43% work completely nicely. End: reasonably lengthy, rounder, with extra desserts and honeys. Contemporary pears and heather honey within the aftertaste. Feedback: a tad austere at occasions, and in that respect reasonably the other of the very fragrant ‘Très Vieux’. Fairly malternative indeedn and excellent certainly.
SGP:551 – 87 factors. |
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Cognac Grande Champagne 37 yo 1979 (50%, La Distillerie Générale, grande champagne, cask #14557, 35cl, 870 bottles) 
That is Martell. The story goes like Martell acquired this third-fill cask (they name that aged casks) in 1984 after which saved it first in a moist warehouse, then in a dry one, till bottling two or three years in the past. Color: gold. Nostril: it is reasonably akin to the primary Jean Fillioux on the nostril, with loads of recent aromatics, besides that this one was bottled at a correct power! Just a few rose petals and whiffs of dunnage, many raisins, walnuts, pomegranates, oranges, melons, mangos, honeysuckle, lime blossom, then a variety of Christmas cookies and bredala, particularly anis bredala, additionally figs each recent and dried, small cigars… Good nostril, very complicated and ever-developing. I might like to know who distilled this. With water: some beeswax coming by. We could not disapprove. Mouth: just a few inexperienced tannins, aniseed, verjuice, apple peel… A bit gritty at this level, however a little bit water ought to assist. With water: bingo. Liquorice allsorts, varied honeys and nougats, pistachio turon, quince jelly, Lebanese pastries (let’s assist Lebanon)… This can be a excellent palate and doubtless the perfect use of Evian (I ran out of Vittel, briefly). End: medium, very recent and fruity when at +/-45%, unique, a tad mentholy… Briefly, all is nicely. Liquorice within the aftertaste, as occurs typically. Feedback: all is nicely certainly and we’re approaching perfection in my guide. Who distilled and first stuffed this pretty lazy cask?
SGP:651 – 89 factors. |
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Maison Prunier 43 yo 1977/2021 (56.3%, The Purist, Wine4you, petite champagne, 90 bottles) 
1977, that is Speaking Heads! Color: gentle amber. Nostril: sumptuously on maple syrup and chestnut honey, with just a bit sandalwood and cinnamon within the background. Beautiful, however I am certain there will likely be extra as quickly as we have added a little bit Evian (I insist, we ran out of Vittel). With water: recent nougat. Is there something higher on this life than recent nougat that they only lower for you on the nougat manufacturing unit? Additionally a drop of Greek retsina wine – however do they make retsina elsewhere? Mouth (neat): tight, punchy, even a little bit aggressive, with some resinous tannins assaulting your gums. A whole lot of mint too. Fast, with water: a giant boy, we’re clearly in outdated malt territory right here. Yep, Macallan. Very good tightness, with some mocha, roasted pecans, Smyrna raisins, black tea, and wee bits of tobacco that you’d have gotten into your mouth out of your untipped Craven A or Senior Service… Round when Speaking Heads had been operating the present. Have not smoked any of these since again then… End: lengthy, dry and a little bit drying, however actually proper up my alley. Feedback: love this sort, it is up there with the perfect outdated Speysiders. Beloved the wee roughness too.
SGP:561 – 91 factors. |
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Again to the New York Dolls…
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Maison Prunier 45 yo 1975/2021 (53.4%, The Purist, Wine4you, grande champagne, 550 bottles)
We had tried one other 1975 from la Cave de la Maison Prunier again in October; it was very good (WF 89). Did you discover, this can be a grande champagne, whereas the 1977 was a petite champagne. Color: deep gold. Nostril: woo-hoo… Completely tight, compact, focussed outdated cognac on fudge, maple syrup, peanut butter and outdated Sauternes. With water: quinces, earl gray, whiffs of engine oil, wee touches of metallic polish, and as we generally say, the exhaust of a two-stroke Kawasaki. The type that used to roam our streets again in… 1975. Mouth (neat): beautifully tight as soon as once more, totally on raisins, quinces, marmalade, figs and toffee. One other large boy that took its time in some wooden that knew the way to behave. With water: crème de menthe, Bénédictine and Chartreuse! What a cask. End: lengthy, natural and candy, a tad piney and unexpectedly refreshing. Love this. Feedback: this one too clicks all buttons right here at Château Whiskyfun. Some associates ‘may’ discover it a tad rustic right here and there, as rustic because the New York Dolls in 1975, exactly. However I’d disagree.
SGP:661 – 91 factors. |
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Hermitage 1960 (47%, OB, grande champagne, +/-2019)
Such an enthralling point out on the label, “Cognac d’une époque ancienne”. Pure poetry. We have already tried just a few glories by Hermitage, and what’s extra this one received The Cognac Trophy & Gold Excellent Award on the IWSC 2020. However we certain will not crack beneath strain, as they might say at TAG Heuer’s… Color: amber. Nostril: probably the most deluxe pancake sauce ever. Fantastic toffees, blacker honeys, cured hams (outdated Parma, Iberico), chestnut liqueur from the Ardèche, and simply probably the most fantastic rancio wines and Banyuls. Some beautiful earthiness too. Mouth: no extreme wooden in any respect, that is sorted. Some pine needles, chocolate, crème de menthe, verbena liqueur, chestnut honey, mocha, skinny mints… This type of English chocolate and mint combo simply at all times works in my guide, you simply haven’t to consider Boris Johnson. Oops, too late. End: reasonably lengthy, a tad jammier, earthier, with a little bit sorrel and recent mint. And rancio, clearly. Feedback: by the way in which, 1960 is my 12 months. Good outdated cognac by the home Hermitage.
SGP:461 – 90 factors. |
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Additional down the years…
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Fins Bois N°52-22 (46.5%, Jean Grosperrin, L 869, +/-2020)
In idea, in keeping with some reliable associates, this can be a mix of 1952 and 1922, the 1922 accounting for one fifth of the entire vatting. Color: amber. Nostril: it’s a reasonably rounded one, meady, just about on honeys, beeswax, pollens after which quince jelly. Quince jelly being the subsequent neatest thing after Zeus’s very personal ambrosia. Goes on with a little bit menthol, a little bit eucalyptus and myrtle liqueurs from Corsica, then a fairly Asian meaty/saucy combo. That sweeter sauce they might provide you with with Chinese language dumplings, which I simply adore in my deepest pores (what?) Mouth: a grittiness from some outdated piney woods, some liquorice wooden, extra myrtle liqueur (not quite common), mead, pine resin, after which some candy wine, like those they make in Sicily. Or on Pantelleria. And sultanas. End: medium, maybe a tad oaky and drying now, getting a little bit fragile. Feedback: I used to be having it at 90 – and simply – earlier than the end. Higher-echelon outdated cognac. Thoughts you, 1922, that was when Jack Kerouac was born.
SGP:461 – 89 factors. |
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Maison Prunier ‘Lot 50’ (57%, The Purist, Wine4you, grande champagne, 126 bottles, 2021)
Seventy years and hundred proof, you learn that proper. Color: ember. Nostril: after all it is not drained, at 100 proof! Chocolate and raisins, kougelhopf, roasted chestnuts, palo cortado, then spicy desserts and biscuits. Clove cookies, anis bredala, Läckerli, ginger cookies… Some curious notes of stout too, chocolate beer, maduro cigars, glutamate, miso, umami… However boy is it vigorous, at 70 years outdated! Unbelievable… With water: we’re now in malty territories. Recreation, chilly cuts, pot ale, backyard earth, pumpernickel… Mouth (neat): loads of punch and definitely some tannins. Grape pips, pumpkin seeds, grapefruit pores and skin, many fruit peelings, tight sultanas, mint syrup, cough medication… However keep in mind, 57% vol. I discover it superb that the distinguished bottlers would not have lowered it to provide you with 20% extra bottles. Nice ethos. With water: do not, it could make it too piney, gritty and drying. Oh simply preserve it at 57% vol (As we all know, solely fools by no means change their thoughts.) End: very lengthy, a little bit grassy, with inexperienced tannins. Oversteeped tea. A whole lot of menthol advert pine needles within the aftertaste. Feedback: this one was a troublesome wrestler. Not a straightforward one after the very beautiful 1977 and 1975 Pruniers.
SGP:351 – 86 factors. |
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Maison Prunier 74 yo 1946/2021 (49.5%, The Purist, Wine4you, grande champagne, 30 bottles)
Think about the temper that used to prevail in 1946 in France. We could name this one freedom cognac? Color: amber. Nostril: this one’s eternally recent and integrally aromatic. Superb whiffs of wee flowers (woodruff, lilies of the valley, borage) plus caramel cream, praline, nougat and even, sure in a 74 years outdated cognac, some caramel-coated popcorn! Introduced by the GIs, I’d think about. What’s certain is that this one’s brisker than the 1950. Mouth: yep! Fewer tannins and extra crystallised fruits, some natural teas (chamomile), a reasonably invasive cinnamon, similar with nutmeg, then dried dates full of marzipan (a delicacy that I will at all times cherish) in addition to touches of Lebanese – and Turkish – arrack. Distilled figs. This very outdated cognac needed to play and have enjoyable. End: reasonably lengthy and complicated, with some black nougat this time, puréed chestnuts, softer peppers and cloves (comfortable paprika?) and pretty chocolate/espresso combo within the aftertaste. Feedback: woo-hoo! Is not Ronnie Wooden 74 too? Fantastic outdated fruity cognac, an ode to outdated age and maturity.
SGP:561 – 90 factors. |
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Little cognac made in the course of the battle, the boys had been too busy and the ladies much more so. Whereas the occupying forces (we’re associates now) had been reasonably busy downing the shares that had not been correctly hidden…
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Grande Champagne N.39 (44.3%, Grosperrin for The Auld Alliance Singapore, 2021)
Warfare broke out on September 1, 1939, however they nonetheless managed to reap and distil this classic, as Cognac was within the ‘free zone’ anyway (zone libre). Bear in mind, with brandies, the classic refers to when the grapes had been harvested. Color: deep gold. Nostril: sure, some oils and even a little bit petrol, over a most nutty nostril, stuffed with walnuts, almonds, pecans and even roasted sesame seeds. Additionally embrocations, sauna oils, Barbour grease, a little bit paraffin, and linseed oil. Not loads of fruits, however that is very okay as we do love all these nutty flavours. Mouth: you can not not consider some very outdated Sauternes. Wee mushroomy notes, botrytis, some cocoa powder, apricot jam, dried apricots mumps, then an unfolding on raisins, resins and mints. It’s simply flabbergasting that this child would not be drained and woody – and it even made it to Singapore! End: medium and a little bit drying, which is completely regular. Very piney aftertaste. They would not say nevertheless it’s not not possible that this child could be, wait, 80 years outdated or perhaps a little extra. By the way in which, we have saved the Glenlivet 80 yo G&M for Christmas. Does not charity start at residence? Feedback: unimaginable, even when that is extra a Botticelli than a Koons. Yeah we do agree.
SGP:461 – 91 factors. |
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We have additionally bought a ’39 Prunier, thoughts you…
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Maison Prunier 81 yo 1939/2021 (43.2%, The Purist, Wine4you, petite champagne, 42 bottles)
Eighty-one-years-old! That even beats G&M’ newest ‘livet! Color: darkish pink amber. Nostril: you would not get the fracas of the cannons but, certainly. It’s truly a softer, aromatic, floral, peaceable petite champagne, stuffed with buttercups, lilies, gorse, then Parma ham, mead, very outdated chardonnay, and simply outdated beeswax, presbytery (cautious) and root. Beets, gentian, celeriac and wartime Jerusalem artichokes. The notes of gentian would by no means cease rising, which I discover stunning and completely superb in such a really outdated cognac. Mouth: certain the oak feels, and it could really feel rather a lot, with bitter herbs and loads of hay, however you ned to intellectualise all this, proper. The higher information is that some tropical fruits preserve preventing in there, particularly pineapples and guavas. Guavas are to be present in probably the most unlikely spirits. Not saying that is unlikely, it is simply that outdated age feels. Oh nicely, I do know what I am attempting to say. End: medium and dry and natural. Feedback: we’re most likely touching the bounds of outdated age in any spirits. I discover it additionally a little bit shifting to think about the distillers doing their work whereas understanding that the mighty Wehrmacht would most likely take the land over eventually. And drink all of it (fairly), because the Germans was once devoted sponges. ‘Schnaps, das battle sein letztes Wort…’ usw…
SGP:371 – 86 factors. |
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Maison Prunier 89 yo 1931/2021 (40.6%, The Purist, Wine4you, fins bois, 42 bottles)
89 years outdated, that is changing into scary, however I’ve heard it is Keith Richards who distilled this one in his spare time… Eighty-nine, Neunundachtzig, ottantanove, quatre-vingt-neuf, ochenta y nueve, ???! Color: gold. Nostril: it isn’t probably the most bored with then all, I am even discovering all these notes of nougat and biscuits recent and vigorous. Some inexperienced bananas, dandelions, pistachios, macadamia nuts, carrots, apples… It’s a very outdated spirit, sensible, appeased and serene, and never drained in any method. Fantastic herbalness within the background, we may nearly point out outdated Tarragone chartreuse, however inexperienced bananas stay on the lead all alongside. Mouth: superb, it isn’t useless, neither has it turn into too tea-ish, it’s even reasonably recent, with plums and outdated white wines, white Bourgogne, rieslings, some reasonable oaky spiciness, and reasonably loads of banana pores and skin. Banana pores and skin stays an indication of outdated age, having stated that. I imply, in spirits aged in oak, not in people. End: medium, with some fruits and a few herbs. Bananas pores and skin once more, guava, plantains… Feedback: a miracle. Until I am flawed, that is really the oldest spirit I’ve ever tried. We’re speaking age in wooden, naturally, not age in demijohns or bottles, which might be too simple and, truly, unlawful. Loopy.
SGP:361 – 87 factors. |
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We could strive a final one? I imply, one which was distilled 97 years in the past?
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Grande Champagne N.24 (43.6%, Grosperrin for The Auld Alliance Singapore, 2021)
1924, wow, that is Otto Dix’s time, Edward Hopper’s, Paul Klee’s, Paul Whiteman’s, Ma Rainey’s, Fauré, Sibelius, Copland and Erik Satie’s… It’s so completely shifting to style a liquid that is seen these occasions and breathed the identical air… Color: deep pink amber. Nostril: this can’t be, that is recent as a daisy in a morning in June, this has varied flowers, wisteria, peonies, lilies, jasmine… This has beautiful honeys, nuts, quinces (hurray), extra quinces, much more quinces… Wait, that is pure liquid quince jelly, king of fruits and queen of all aromas which might be to be present in any aged spirits. Masterful outdated cognac on the nostril. Mouth: ooh… How can this be? Past the wee piney, resinous, propolis-like flavours that is perhaps a tad ‘an excessive amount of’ (however S., 97 years!) these dried and crystallised fruits are simply totally beautiful. Please name the Anti-OldSpiritPorn brigade! Quinces first, they preserve main the pack, then figs, dried longans or rambutans, jujubes, tiny berries, sorb, checkerberries, holly, elderberries… Do not we simply love all of them? Unsweetened Darjeeling tea taking on after ten minutes, which was to be anticipated. End: not the longest ever. Cocoa powder, floor espresso, dry tobacco… Some sweeter, brisker berries within the aftertaste. Elderberries and associates. Feedback: as they are saying in brochures and now on Instagram, that is fascinating. You wouldn’t choose it solely ‘technically’ (f**okay that) the wow impact being what’s actually necessary right here. Thoughts you, 97 years. Ninety-seven, quatre-vingt-dix-sept, siebenundneunzig, novantasette, noventa y siete, Kyû-jû-shich, no matter.
SGP:461 – 91 factors. |
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In the event that they ever do a 1907, might I recommend they name it ‘Nationale 7’?
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Within the phrases of Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, ‘au revoir’.
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