“The sharing of pleasure, whether or not bodily, emotional, psychic, or mental, types a bridge between the sharers which might be the premise for understanding” – Audre Lorde
It was an image good day in late spring. I used to be on the extremely regarded Brooklyn watering gap Journey Bar, entertaining buddies from out of city. It’s one thing of a ritual that I relish: introducing buddies visiting from afar to the New York bar scene, which comprises among the best institutions in the complete world. On this explicit event I used to be with whiskey buddies whom I had by no means met earlier than, however with whom I had developed a heat relationship in on-line circles by way of our shared ardour for America’s native spirit.
Someplace between our low-proof starter pours and an eye-watering 163.6 proof expression, the subject of our shared fascination for hazmat whiskey was broached. Hazmat, shorthand for “hazardous materials” is a class of whiskey that’s over 140 proof, so-named due to its risky nature. The truth is, as a result of whiskeys with alcohol content material over 70% ABV are thought-about extremely flammable, the FAA has banned them from being taken on a aircraft. It was throughout this dialogue that my buddies let slip that they have been on the town for the aim of choosing a single barrel from a neighborhood distillery. That’s not all; they knowledgeable me that, of the samples being rolled out for choice, all of them can be hazmat barrels from Brooklyn’s personal Kings County Distillery.
One other hazmat expression from Kings County was beforehand lined right here on Malt by Taylor and, given how wildly his impression of that providing deviated from his usually austere scores, I knew that these amped-up samples can be price exploring. When my buddies graciously prolonged a suggestion for me to hitch them, I couldn’t say “sure” quick sufficient. Not solely are hazmat bourbons typically uncommon (and thus extremely sought-after) however, given how well-regarded Kings County is, I knew that becoming a member of the barrel choose can be a one-of-a-kind expertise.
Oh, how proper I used to be! We have been initially greeted at The Gatehouses tasting room by Jen Blair, Kings County’s NYC PR and Market Supervisor. Jen led us to the Paymaster Constructing in Brooklyn’s historic Navy Yard, which has turn out to be the model’s premier barrel getting older facility. Each buildings have a venerable attraction, with the previous resembling a citadel and the latter that includes classic prospers that hearken again to its heyday because the backdrop for the notorious 1860’s Brooklyn Whiskey Wars.
As soon as inside we have been greeted by none aside from Colin Spoelman: whiskey historian, one-time UGG mannequin, and Kings County co-founder. Equal elements easy-going and erudite, Colin welcomed us first with a behind the scenes tour of his distillery. He then took us by way of the historical past of the model as solely he can, having been there from its inception. I encourage you to learn Taylor’s earlier protection of Kings County, the place you may study that historical past in Colin’s personal phrases. It’s a implausible story and one which places into context the easy cool captured by their understated branding.
Following our informative tour, we lastly sat down and commenced with probably the most anticipated portion of our afternoon: the choice course of. Laid out earlier than us have been three small pattern bottles and three glasses, already containing stated samples. We have been then joined over the cellphone by Shawn Kim, proprietor of 58 Wine & Liquor, who couldn’t make the journey however can be the person liable for promoting the choose.
Colin and Jen talked us by way of what made these samples so distinctive. Because of them being smaller barrels and among the oldest in model’s historical past, the angels ate away at a great deal of the distillate, which in flip pushed the proof a lot larger than others in Kings County’s stock. We opted to attempt every of the samples with out discussing them amongst ourselves or studying concerning the specs beforehand, with a view to enable the whiskey to talk for itself.
For me, the primary pattern was merely scrumptious and had a fantastic amalgamation of excessive warmth and sweetness. Brownie bits and a contact of marshmallow melded with cooked apples and a few mesquite flavors harking back to BBQ sauce, which made it arduous to place down. The second pattern was surprisingly mild, filled with pears and honey on a mattress of butterscotch, with citrus coming by way of on the again finish. Lastly, the third pattern was just like the primary however had a bit extra cherry and chocolate truffle notes. It was additionally scrumptious, although a bit tamer than the primary pattern.
As soon as we started discussing our impressions it was clear that all of us fell in line unanimously: pattern one was the boldest and probably the most alluring of the bunch. Pattern two was attractive as an “off-profile” alternative, but in addition by far probably the most delicate of the picks… if such a factor might be stated about whiskey over 140 proof. The ultimate pattern was the primary one eradicated, not as a result of it wasn’t implausible, however as a result of it merely couldn’t stand as much as the primary pattern.
And so after briefly deliberating and extra lengthily mulling over the choices in entrance of us (you understand, for science) we chosen a hazmat Kings County barrel. We concluded by peppering Colin with a plethora of questions and choosing up some further bottles from their present store earlier than ambling out of the Paymaster Constructing into the mercifully cool afternoon air.
As a result of this memorable expertise has rendered me biased with reference to this overview I’ve despatched a pattern to Malt’s fearless chief, Taylor, to realize the advantage of his extra goal perception. For good measure, I’ve additionally despatched a pattern to the person most uniquely certified to evaluate Kings County bourbon: Colin Spoelman. It’s my hope that we coalesce round one thing of a consensus concerning the choose although, in fact, all of us have totally different palates and attachments to the model which is able to inevitably colour our impressions.
Earlier than commencing with the specifics and our collective notes, I’d additionally wish to make point out of the truth that I’ve beforehand been unmasked as somebody typically cynical concerning the usefulness of single barrel evaluations. Whereas I proceed to carry that opinion, I believe reviewing this bottle presents a singular perception into Kings County’s barrel choosing course of and moreover hope it informs you, pricey reader, concerning the deserves (or perils) of hazmat bourbon.
Now the specifics: this bottle clocks in at 147.4 proof or 73.7% ABV (appropriate proof is on the entrance label. The again label has an incorrect model of the proof from once we initially made the choice which was 146.8, not 148.6, so it bought hotter whereas ready to be bottled!) The mash invoice is 80% corn and 20% malted barley. The worth was $60 for a 200ml bottle, and the whole yield was restricted to 90 bottles resulting from evaporation. I managed to put in writing this overview earlier than sending samples from the rest of my bottle to buddies, as a result of I wished as many individuals as attainable to do this distinctive restricted launch. Lastly I’d wish to thank Colin, Jen, Morgan, Ian, and Shawn for permitting me to participate on this choose.
Frank’s Notes
Coloration: Darkish amber, nearly mahogany
On the nostril: Molasses and wealthy butterscotch to go together with a meatiness that’s intriguing. I’m instantly pondering of Kansas Metropolis fashion BBQ, it has a permanent sweetness regardless of additionally containing a little bit of smoke courtesy of the barrel char, and a welcome tart cherry rhubarb notice. The nostril is dense and resplendent with darkly candy and savory notes. There’s additionally a medley of spice notes most prominently led by cayenne and oregano, along with a little bit of bay leaf simmered in with tomato paste. There’s even a contact of nectarine nestled beneath the entire warmth, which gives a vivid steadiness to the candy notes that run all through the nosing. Potent and enchanting, although the distinguished ethanol presence curbs the expertise a bit. Lastly, the longer this sits the extra distinguished the properly aged oak notice turns into.
Within the mouth: It has an instantly oily mouthfeel that nearly sizzles up the palate and spreads like napalm with bits of warmth darting in each route. A pink eraser notice that transforms into juicy fruit gum, that then transforms right into a form of aloe vera-like inexperienced notice paints the roof of the mouth. The BBQ fashion oddly turns into extra Memphis than Kansas Metropolis, because the deep sweetness of the nostril is supplanted by a extra delicate sweetness that melds properly with the heavy barrel char, leather-based, overripe black cherry, and black pepper spice that prospers on the palate. There’s a form of smoky molasses notice that extends all through the end that leaves me sucking my tongue to wring out the entire remaining sweetness, whereas the prolonged end gives a big Kentucky hug. Upon repeat sips there’s additionally a creamy caramel corn that permeates.
Conclusions:
I believe the nostril is WONDERFUL and, although the palate doesn’t ship on all of its promise, it too holds an alluring medley of flavors. The proof that isn’t evident on the nostril does encroach on the palate, significantly simply earlier than the end however by that time the waves of taste have already staked their declare and gained the warfare. Having admitted my bias on the outset, I ought to notice my criticisms right here embrace the next: the proof is at instances distracting and although there are a number of layers of taste they’re not completely harmonious. That stated, I consider this deserves a rating in accordance with “Nice” on Malt’s scale regardless of carrying a steep worth.
Rating: 6/10
Taylor’s Notes
Coloration: Medium-dark chestnut.
On the nostril: As anticipated/hoped for, this jumps out of the glass with a walloping wall of aromas. Very ripe stone fruit aromas (cherries, apricots, plums) are accented by exotically spicy notes of kola nut, cinnamon, and purple pepper. There’s an acetone notice swirling round right here as properly that creates a modest distraction, however refocusing my nostril permits me to tease out wealthy scents of chocolate fudge in addition to a darkish, mineralic scent of volcanic rock.
Within the mouth: A tart cherry notice blooms instantly on the entrance of the mouth, being joined by an ashy taste and texture on the tip of the tongue. This picks up warmth and astringency because it strikes up the tongue towards the middle of the mouth, the place the dominant notice is of a really tannic, nearly bitter woodiness that’s redeemed solely by some delicate fruitiness. This calms down considerably because it nears the end, the place that sourness recedes and is changed by some extra of that campfire ashiness in addition to a really delicate, nice contact of roasted espresso beans. This lingers with a pulsating warmth that radiates throughout the roof of the mouth, tongue, gums, and lips.
Conclusions: This has some very good notes, but in addition some awry aromas and flavors that drive themselves upon the nostril and tongue. That acetone component on the nostril might be missed, however the bitter woodiness dominates the palate in a means that crowds out among the extra interesting flavors.
That is notably inferior to the prior barrel of hazmat King’s County I loved, and I’m questioning if this has to do with the smaller barrel dimension (15 gallons on this case, versus that 30 gallon barrel)? It’s not fairly as costly as that one ($225 for 750ml equal, vs. $320), although nonetheless pricy within the grand spectrum of bourbon. I’m glad to have tried it, however can be on the fence about whether or not to purchase a bottle myself, which I’m reflecting with a rating in the course of the vary.
Rating: 5/10
Colin’s Notes
I ought to say from the outset I used to be within the room while you picked the barrel with Morgan and Ian, so had a subjective reminiscence of this explicit barrel. I additionally know there was massive however typical angel’s share (over 50%) because it was entered in March 2014. I really regarded up what occurred in March 2014 and Sia launched Chandelier, so: in the event you can think about a world earlier than you heard that music 10,000 instances, that’s when this whiskey was born. So, this wasn’t a totally blind tasting. I additionally, for enjoyable and comparability, had a glass close by with Kings County’s Barrel Energy #13 127.4 proof, 2022 Blender’s Reserve 129.6 proof, 7-year, and Blender’s Reserve 2021 140 proof, 6-year.
Coloration: Wealthy mahogany brown. It is a very darkish American whiskey, however good colour on the sides. I’ll additionally point out this leaves every kind of residue on the glass. These hazmat whiskeys are so concentrated that they evaporate quick and depart a number of char and oil behind. Positively one thing that even common barrel energy whiskeys don’t do fairly so dramatically. It’s fairly actually 3/4 pure alcohol, however loopy that what stays makes all of the distinction.
On the nostril: Probably the greatest issues about older whiskeys, from my perspective, is the best way the older wooden contributes particularly to the nostril. It’s a scent you may type of choose up in a wood stairwell in an previous home, a spot the place there’s a number of getting older wooden that has targeting itself over time. Whiskey ages, however so does wooden, and that doesn’t get talked about sufficient once we talk about previous whiskeys. This additionally has a pleasant bitter notice on the nostril, like previous hay, so there’s a extra natural scent that goes past mere previous wooden or previous furnishings. It’s a really wealthy odor, with molasses and chocolate. This isn’t essentially an previous bourbon in comparison with some teenager Kentucky whiskeys, however these don’t at all times land in closely oaked territory. Make no mistake, this has the nostril of older bourbon, the small barrel contributes to that right here, and whereas this may be overdone, I draw a distinction clearly on the nostril with one thing youthful from Kings County, like this Barrel Energy #13, which has a very beautiful nostril, nevertheless it’s not as musty or dank. There’s additionally a burnt sugar notice; nearly a toffee, however much more carbonized than that. One different notice: this has a number of nostril; it’s a really aromatic whiskey.
Within the mouth: That is highly regarded whiskey. However as heavy handed as that is on the nostril, the palate – when you get previous the warmth – is light. That burnt sugar notice is right here, however butterscotch, molasses, and even honey. There’s a number of taste that may very well be described as spice: cinnamon and sizzling pepper particularly, perhaps black pepper. I keep in mind pondering of this as a dry whiskey once we tasted the barrels on the distillery, however right here, separated from that context, it’s something however. Actually candy with caramelized sugar, honey, and darkish corn syrup on the end. I do additionally notice that it takes a short time to get used to warmth, or perhaps the alcohol numbs sure tastebuds, opening up the best way for others. That is just about 2:1 ratio to regular bourbon when it comes to alcohol content material, so actually, I’ve to sip after which let my palate relaxation.
For enjoyable, I in contrast this to three different Kings County whiskeys. Barrel energy #13 is just a bit much less intense throughout, however has a stunning buttery toffee taste with out the intense depth that these different three current. The 2022 Blender’s Reserve has perhaps a richer grouping of notes: extra of a pipe organ of notes on a broader spectrum, if this 8-year hazmat is taking part in the center notes louder. The 2021 Blender’s Reserve is a better taste analogue, with that natural notice of previous hay and stairwell wooden, nevertheless it’s a bit gentler on the palate (being decrease proof maybe, even at 70% alcohol). On this context, that wood-paneled room, previous barn side feels singular to this whiskey. Should you’ve been on the decrease flooring of a Kentucky rickhouse on a sizzling day, that’s the flavour that’s happening right here.
With a bit water added, issues change a bit. These larger, sharper alcohol notes give option to a wealthy and smooth caramel. The burnt sugar notice that’s so intense at full proof turns into scrumptious butterscotch. I used to be a bit apprehensive this one would possibly collapse at decrease proof, simply given how a lot taste was concentrated and the way dominant the alcohol is at very first sip. However we put a number of effort into our whiskeys, and pot stills add a number of oils that basically hold the whiskey collectively at any proof. It dilutes very properly. As a aspect notice, I bought to check out my new Glencairn pipette, a pleasant little piece of ingesting paraphernalia I picked up at Tales of the Cocktail final week, as sensible because the Glencairn itself, so a bit plug for that.
Conclusions:
I believe it might be silly to attempt to price this whiskey. I consider all of the whiskeys we make are glorious, however that is one that may attraction to the very well-traveled, however adventurous bourbon drinker, and particularly anybody keen on barrel energy. Should you can’t discover Stagg, it will do, and also you would possibly similar to it higher in any case. It’s definitely in that type of firm when it comes to business analogues.
There aren’t a number of whiskeys which are taking part in heavy oak character and intensely excessive proof in fairly this manner. So let’s simply say in conclusion that it is a wealthy, complicated, nuanced whiskey of a really uncommon kind, for any bourbon. I may also add that that is perhaps the tip of an period for these small format barrels from Kings County, as most of our extra-aged whiskeys will likely be popping out of 53 gallon barrels from right here on out. We didn’t actually intend to age 15-gallon barrels for 8 years, and we in all probability by no means will once more. So, these non-public barrels and particular releases from this yr and final are a type of turning level for us as a distillery, and it’s a bit unhappy as a result of these whiskeys won’t ever be replicated or approximated. This yr’s Bottled-in-Bond will likely be a set of 6-year and 7-year choices, all from 53s, pushing us just a bit bit extra like conventional Kentucky bourbon. Our hope is that the flavour hews fairly carefully to what folks know from Kings County, but when we drift in any respect, it is going to be arguably extra mainstream out of 53s.
I believe it speaks to one thing bigger that’s occurring in craft, which is that many craft distillers are rising up and realizing that the Kentucky program – column stills, standardized barrels, mixing by age vs. taste – are all issues that make financial sense. What stays to be seen is how a lot of that our craft buddies embrace or proceed to withstand. I assumed we had sworn off small barrels, however I ordered 500 extra 30-gallon barrels for subsequent yr, partly due to whiskeys like this one. I let the web chatter about small barrel and financial imperatives for normal format barrels outweigh the fact on the bottom, which is you could make a extremely exceptional bourbon in a small barrel in case you are cautious and affected person, and I don’t know every other clearer proof of that assertion than this 8-year whiskey.
Frank’s Remaining Ideas
I hope that seeing three differing opinions on the identical expression highlights the inherent subjectivity of whiskey for you, pricey reader. Subjectivity is thus really an immutable reality of whiskey evaluations. Whereas all three of us share some notes in frequent, our appreciation of and degree and delight for these aromas and flavors is coloured by our private preferences and life expertise. These variations of opinion are a part of what makes whiskey such an unbelievable pleasure to share with others as we uncover that, very like the human expertise – a lot of what binds us collectively additionally allows us to extra clearly observe our variations. Taken as a complete I hope these three opinions can lead you to a deeper understanding of Kings County’s whiskey and, at any price. I’m overjoyed to have been in a position to share on this tasting experiment with two consummate professionals.
