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| Hello, that is one in all our (virtually) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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November 14, 2021
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There’s extra coming our method nowadays, I am questioning if we’ll handle to maintain limiting these to Sundays (whereas we have additionally received loads of new rums, additionally jenevers, calvados, mezcals, eaux-de-vie, gins – not gins, I am joking…) It is actually good enjoyable, however the strain is on us… Let’s have a look at what we’ve got at present… Together with this ‘apéritif only for enjoyable’…
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Lustau ‘Solera Reserva’ (40%, OB, brandy de Jerez, +/-2019) 
A disgrace that almost all homes in Jerez make their brandies this candy and generally even excessively cloying. Even one of the best homes do this, similar to… nicely, Lustau. Color: brownish gold. Strikes like oil in your glass. Nostril: you’ll imagine you are nosing both cream sherry, or simply PX. Fairly caramelly and molassy too, which isn’t completely disagreeable, quite the opposite, however watch the palate… Mouth: bordering liqueurness, to the purpose the place all you would want is a giant ice dice. Shock-full of raisins and molasses, muscovado sugar, and now maybe moscatel reasonably than PX. Thick and, certainly, just a little cloying, as if they’d added fairly some candy mosto. End: reasonably lengthy due to all this sweetness. Like a liqueur. Feedback: I appreciated Lustau’s ‘Gran Reserva’ reasonably higher (WF 79). And naturally, their fantastic sherries, the En Ramas and many others. Nice, nice home.
SGP:820 – 75 factors. |
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Maison Fontan 1998/2021 (54.6%, LMDW, Model Française, Armagnac, cask #128, 371 bottles) 
LMDW have at all times been pioneers, this time they’re placing extra-efforts into Armagnac, with a pleasant flock of latest ‘indie’ bottlings similar to this Fontan. I’ve tried a couple of Fontans prior to now however they’ve at all times been older bottlings at 40% vol. Previous-world Armagnacs, this must be totally different… Color: golden amber. Nostril: reasonably amazingly, we’re extra in North-America than in Armagnac at first sniffs, I’d have mentioned fashionable American single malt, within the area of Excessive West or Westland. And that, thoughts you, is a praise. Pretty truffles, kougelhopfs, raisin rolls, then pancake sauce, then extra roasted and baked raisins, which might, in flip, lead us to… Armagnac. We have come full circle. Now I am certain this may change as soon as we have added water… With water: glue, varnish, almonds, sawn Formica, Bakelite, even acetone… We’re in Kentucky this time! The anticipated armagnacness is simply kicking in after a very good two minutes, with figs and prunes. And extra raisins with just a little mint and camphor. Mouth (neat): the wooden’s been very energetic as this begins far more mentholy, even terpenic and resinous (pine), with a full cup of honeydew in your glass, crème de menthe, then some thickish molasses considerably within the type of… Lustau’s brandy, thoughts you. Reasonably loads of liquorice. With water: ah, armagnac. Half joking. Chocolate, Jaffa truffles, black tea, raisins, peach skins… End: lengthy, with touches of camphor. Espresso and tobacco within the aftertaste. Feedback: a stressed child that really makes you journey. Armagnac’s proverbial rusticity is totally there.
SGP:561 – 86 factors. |
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Tessendier ‘Lot 97’ (48%, LMDW, By The Grapevine, Cognac Grande Champagne, 2019) 
I believe this 1997 was bottled in 2019, I am not lifeless certain about that. I believe it is the primary time I am ingesting Tessendier… Color: full gold. Nostril: it is nice to have such an fragrant, contemporary and fruity cognac after the darker, heavier armagnac. Fantastic sultanas, peach liqueur, drops of raki, dried longans, touches of Pinot Gris, definitely hi-level Sauternes (a Barsac, actually)… This nostril simply makes you wish to dive into it. Mouth: full-flown peaches and apples, pomegranates, rose petal jelly, quince, lime honey, starkrimsons, nicely I am preserving this brief as it’s already an previous bottle. Issues are getting even sooner nowadays my good friend. End: medium, contemporary, extra honeyed. Feedback: impeccable, irresistible, very fragrant contemporary and fruity cognac. However cautious, it drinks very nicely.
SGP:651 – 88 factors. |
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Château de Laubade 1990/2020 (50.5%, OB, Bas-armagnac, brut de fût)
A mix of three varietals by some of the vital and well-reputed homes in Armagnac that is situated in Sorbets, not too removed from Nogaro (which is able to ring a bell to any correct automotive fanatic). No folle blanche this time however baco, ugni blanc and colombard. Color: full gold. Nostril: certain it is cask energy however it is a subtler armagnac, reasonably extra on roasted nuts (pecans, hazelnuts), with just a little ‘good’ varnish (at all times an asset on this context) after which ripe bananas and pears. Some wee metallic tones (previous copper) and some herbs and flowers as nicely (mullein, woodruff, maybe candy pea), plus chestnut honey and purée. I imply puréed chestnuts. With water: will get drier, extra on tobacco, uncooked chocolate, break up peas this time, even just a little chicory… Mouth (neat): as soon as once more, not fairly a country armagnac and I’d say you’ll be forgiven for considering that is reasonably a Borderies from Cognac. Peaches stewed in honey and maple syrup, with some black nougat, roasted peanuts, just a little corn syrup maybe… With water: it swims nicely. Praline, ganache, extra roasted nuts (of varied sorts), just a little mocha… As soon as once more water made it drier, in a really good method. End: medium, actually on praline and nougat. Maybe heather honey simply mead within the aftertaste. Feedback: a superb Laubade. One of many homes that appear to be going in direction of extra cask energy (bruts de fût), which is simply nice. We’ll have many extra Laubade quickly, keep tuned.
SGP:551 – 88 factors. |
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Good contrasts between the Tessendier and the Laubade and similar general (excessive) high quality. Let’s transfer on…
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Bertrand ‘Les Pâtissiers MA50’ (54.8%, Malternatives Belgium, cognac, Petite Champagne, 228 bottles, 2021)
Thoughts you, MA50 doesn’t suggest ‘the place’s my Malaguti?’ (oh neglect about that, that is very private), it reasonably means ‘Minimal Age 50 years’. So, in all probability circa The Beatles and The Rolling Stones. Color: deep amber. Nostril: cognacs, until one of many ‘bois’, is just a little lighter and extra fragrant certainly, that is simply one other instance. I discover it just a little extra oriental than others by the best way, with extra figs, extra orange blossom water, even just a little extra rosewater. Fantastic notes of dates stuffed with marzipan, which is a killer desert by the best way, even when just a little out of style, sadly. Hay. With water: fantastic piney oils, ointments… The previous oak talking out. Mouth (neat): knack and punch this time, with a number of sorts of eaux-de-vie, not solely effective. Mirabelle and damson appear to be apparent, additionally some earthier prunes. Crikey, I’d have mentioned armagnac this time; some progress nonetheless to be made at Château WF, it appears… With water: completely pretty, swims nicely, drinks nicely, what does the folks need? End: medium, reasonably extra on assorted dried fruits and high-protein vitality bars. You recognize, peanuts, almonds and stuff. Feedback: similar ballpark as soon as once more, some good cognac with some easiness and no flaws in anyway, very near that ‘wow issue’ we have to get to 90+. Yeah I do know, as we used to say within the Nineteen Seventies, the system is the issue.
SGP:651 – 89 factors. |
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Domaine de Baraillon 1987/2021 (42%, Swell de Spirits, Bas-armagnac)
What may go incorrect right here? Color: espresso. Nostril: basically armagnac. Black raisins, cigars, pinewood, dates, prunes, sauna oils, furnishings polish, crankcase oil, roasted sesame, previous books… And one peanut. Joking. Mouth: a wee bit on the woody facet however that might lead us to previous Bordeaux, previous Pauillac (no names), pine resin, thyme tea and honey… There may be some grittiness, and, as we Alsatians generally say, ‘a sense of hoppla’. Significantly, I would not have stored this one in wooden for for much longer. There’s reasonably loads of moist, thick, Cavendish-like pipe tobacco too. Or that factor we used to purchase as flakes, sobranie or one thing, which might simply by no means burn correctly. Certainly, we’re speaking pipe tobacco. End: lengthy and curiously molassy. Some tarry pine and liquorice within the aftertaste. Really, actually loads of liquorice. Feedback: across the excessive borders as soon as extra.
SGP:671 – 88 factors. |
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Let’s ask Grosperrin should you agree…
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Petite Champagne 1973 (50.6%, Jean Grosperrin, L803, +/-2021) 
It seems that this one was the property of a household of solicitors and that it had been saved in a ‘very moist’ warehouse. Which, in my view, makes the truth that it remained above 50% vol. fairly miraculous, no? Color: full gold. Nostril: a self-restrained cognac, reasonably on candy greens than on fruits. Candy carrots, pumpkins, beets, then flowers, honeysuckle, just a little jasmine maybe, some mashed turnips as nicely (with some cream)… With water: muscovado sugar, previous Demerara rum, a couple of savoury touches, glutamate, liquorice too… Mouth (neat): fantastic comfortable oak over a reasonably expressive distillate. However that labored splendidly, with an outstanding mixture of Christmas spices (star anise and caraway and stuff) with these candy greens and roots as soon as extra. Beets and cinnamon, anybody? In reality that is unbelievable, uncommon, extraordinarily elegant. Plus, in 1973 Frank Zappa recorded his legendary Roxy Performances! With water: sport, set and match. Features energy and traction, as if it had woken up, getting even a tad, wait… armagnacqy? Ooh my head… End: one other ‘movie-cognac’, versus the massive manufacturers’ ‘picture-cognacs’. Oh drop that, S. Feedback: we have reached perfection this time, even when that is reasonably imperfect. Nicely I do know what I am attempting to say. Very good non-immediate, virtually low-key complexity (??? -Ed).
SGP:451 – 91 factors. |
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A final one for the street…
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Maison Prunier ‘Lot 51’ (58%, The Purist Belgium, Grande Champagne, 42 bottles, 2021)
Every thing right here would recommend this was a demi-john (nicely carried out, Watson) or a reassembled set of bottles. Keep in mind Maison Prunier is a poshy restaurant that, similar to say the Tour d’Argent, was at all times having an insane cellar stuffed with tens and tens (yep) of hundreds of wines and spirits. Color: pink amber. Nostril: this time it is cedarwood main the pack, then peonies and wild strawberries, Pomerol, upholstery, cellulosic varnish, then blood oranges and gentle cigars (St Domingue), potpourri… What a whirlwind! There’s even one thing barely malty, paying homage to previous Macallan. Keep in mind previous Macallan? With water: previous woods, oils and cigars. Extra cedar. Mouth (neat): certainly extra cedarwood, quince jelly, strawberry jam, Pomerol once more (merlot, at the very least), then cinnamon. It will are likely to grow to be a tad drying, which is nearly at all times the case when heavyish cinnamon begins to chime in. Certainly rooster and egg. With water: the fruits having the higher hand once more. Quinces, figs… End: medium, a tad drying, with some mint and cinnamon. Proper, cinnamon mints. Feedback: I would like to know when this one ‘left wooden’. I used to be about to go for 89 factors after I remembered that 1951 was the 12 months when Shorty Rogers issued his Fashionable Sounds LP. Large jazz. Alternatively and so far as huge bands have been involved, 1951 was additionally the 12 months of Stan Kenton’s Metropolis of Glass. Fabulous LP too.
SGP:561 – 90 factors. |
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