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| Hello, that is one among our (nearly) each day tastings. Santé! |
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September 19, 2021
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Armagnac is again on the tasting desk
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‘Christmas Hen’
Twenties, the années folles, ‘saucy’ little advert
for armagnac
La Croix de Salles (Dartigalongue)
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This not solely as a result of in ‘armagnac’, there’s ‘maniac’. I imply, phonetically. I am noticing that armagnac, in addition to artisan or small-batch cognac, retains attracting whisky lovers, and I am positive there’s room for way more, particularly for merchandise which have been well-aged as new whisky distillers do not need any, by definition, whereas outdated malts will now actually value you an arm if not worse. Sure, that.
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J. de Malliac ‘vsop’ (40%, OB, armagnac, +/-1990) 
The home de Malliac is situated in Montréal. I imply Montréal-du-Gers, clearly. One other outdated bottle I used to have within the stash, sporting a correct conventional basquaise form, a.okay.a. ‘the tennis racket’. Sadly much less and fewer homes are utilizing these, or just for their entry-level ranges. Color: gold with copper tones. Nostril: old-school entry-level armagnac certainly, feeling a bit sauced-up with honey or every other stuff they had been having within the ‘kitchens’ again then. Aside from that, raisins and a wee vinous facet, relatively round pineau des Charentes (with apologies to our pals within the Cognac area). Mouth: actually candy, nearly liqueury, not too dangerous however it does not really feel pure by at present’s requirements. Triple-sec and extra pineau, fortified grape juice, figs, prunes… End: medium, a bit cloying due to the unnatural sweetness. Candy muscat wine and low within the aftertaste. Kitchen espresso. Feedback: sort of acceptable due to its clear facet however apart from that, it’ relatively doped-up old-style armagnac, as some rum manufacturers nonetheless do.
SGP:740 – 68 factors. |
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Aurian ‘A25’ (45.9%, OB, armagnac, 2021) 
All armagnacs on this new vatting are no less than 25 years outdated. They’ve used stone for his or her stopper, which I discover way more elegant than plastic and posher that wooden that does not maintain something on the center run. The home Aurian in Condom has been lately revived and we may attempt some superb juices already. Color: full gold. Nostril: pretty touches of cedarwood and hibiscus at first, a model new 50-box of Turkish delights, some curious touches of viognier, then a traditional mix of preserved peaches, heather honey, apricots and wisteria, with wee whiffs of recent rubbed mint leaves. That is all fairly elegant and but comparatively dense. Mouth: creamy, relatively singular, beginning with some sort of creamy oak (cigars, cloves) and a sense of oak-aged marc, which is extraordinarily nice when you get previous the shock. Moderately a number of black Wulong tea, extra cigars, some espresso, dried apricots, black currents (Smyrna), almond cream… End: lengthy, fairly dry, on extra oak and tobacco, walnuts, with an uncommon fruitiness ultimately. Say blood oranges. Feedback: the higher facet of the oakier fashion. A singular armagnac certainly, I am keen on it.
SGP:362 – 86 factors. |
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Delord 1997/2021 (50%, Bottles & Legends, Bas-armagnac) 
We’re nonetheless within the Gers, in Lannepax this time. This one was chosen for Belgium, whereas everyone knows that our pals over there are significantly keen on French brandy. Color: deep gold. Nostril: wham! Espresso, marmalade, turpentine, cappuccino and molasses. Fairly heady armagnac, with growing whiffs of rose petals, ylang-ylang and peonies. Moderately an fragrant bomb, let’s say. With water: strikes in direction of sorrel soup, ham, lovage, marrow, hen soup – proper, relatively goose. Mouth (neat): terrifyingly heavy, wealthy, and precisely armagnac, within the sense that it is completely not cognac. I do know what I am making an attempt to say. Extra molasses – you’ll nearly imagine that is an outdated Port Mourant – prune juice, heavy chestnut honey, and as soon as once more touches or roses. Rose petal confit, a factor they make in Provence however attempt to keep away from those they make for vacationers. With water: uncommon and fairly elegant. Some tighter oak within the fashion of the Aurian, some menthol cigarettes (a sense of -), high-end black tea, actually a number of bitter chocolate… End: and naturally, espresso and Cointreau within the aftertaste. Maybe additionally artichokes. Will get even tighter and rustic. As I mentioned, armagnac. Feedback: very extremely really helpful, that is pure armagnacness in my little guide.
SGP:561 – 90 factors. |
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Let’s attempt one other Delord since we’re in Lannepax (so to talk… if solely… sob…)
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Delord ‘Création N° 11’ (43.8%, OB, Bas-armagnac, 1158 bottles, 2020)
It is a mix of 2003, 1995 and 1983. Color: amber. Nostril: a tiny-wee little bit of cleaning soap at first nosing, not one thing we by no means skilled with brandies, then a relatively great composition that may have concerned preserved apricots, honey and dandelions. The cleaning soap’s gone, we’re comfortable. Mouth: warning, this child goes down a bit too effectively (as we may realise at my firm’s newest social gathering), even when it is carrying its rusticity like a flag. I am typically mentioning Jaffa muffins however this time it is ten kilograms of Jaffa muffins. Sponge cake, chocolate and orange jam. Tends to get a bit oaky having mentioned that, I am afraid the Belgian 1997 was brighter. Belgium, we’d like speaking. End: lengthy, a bit bit oaky, however nonetheless relatively pleasant. Some menthol within the aftertaste, that too is not unseen in good brandies. Feedback: I ought to have had this one earlier than the 1997. When will we discuss, Belgium?
SGP:561 – 87 factors. |
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Somewhat extra energy, by Aurian this time…
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Aurian ‘XXO Réserve Spéciale’ (60.4%, OB, Armagnac, 2020)
This gorgeous uncommon child was bottled in September final 12 months. What’s significantly uncommon is the energy of 60.4% vol. since armagnac is often stuffed (entonné) at wherever between 52 and 60% vol. Color: crimson amber. Nostril: terpenes and varnishes at first, which is completely regular at this energy – and which we get pleasure from anyway – then relatively elegant whiffs of peaches stewed in honey sauce, in addition to cedar and sandal woods. Even a bit incense ala Yamazaki. With water: no, ala outdated Karuizawa, I double-super-swear on the tail of Whiskyfun’s present First Mouser, named Soba. Consider me, Soba is protected. Pretty pipe tobacco, earth, umami, prunes (in any case that is armagnac). Mouth (neat): it does not even actually burn, however that is one hefty spirit. Echoes of burnt rubber (tyre) and outdated Pinot Noir, which we are able to solely applaud. However it’s sturdy… With water: wonderful steadiness between oak spices (bordering espresso dregs on this case) and brighter blood oranges, with some chocolate and extra espresso. Maybe not fairly as flabbergasting as on the nostril however we maintain flying fairly excessive. End: very lengthy, with herbs now, Thai basil, lovage, recent coriander… In all probability extra sturdy and rustic, as nearly at all times with armagnac. Feedback: high class punchy armagnac and yeah, actually, Karuizawa on the nostril.
SGP:462 – 90 factors. |
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Dartigalongue 2002 (46%, OB, Bas-armagnac, cask #436, 445 bottles, +/-2020?) 
It’s completely fabulous that distillers in every single place in France would begin to do correct single casks, thus classic bottlings, however pst, all this is able to be much more good with the point out of when it was bottled (the 12 months is okay). In twenty years’ time, if God lets us dwell, we cannot keep in mind whether or not this was a ten, à 20, a 30 or a 40 years outdated. Simply saying… Color: crimson amber. Nostril: relatively rounder, with peaches once more, additionally recent mint, heather honey, cedarwood, effectively taken care of humidor, and few notes of rhum agricole, which is nice information. Somewhat Spanish ham as effectively, and maybe hints of strawberries. Mouth: that is relatively a palate armagnac I imagine, which means that its actually ridden with ripe fruits, numerous honeys, and some bonbons (violet bonbons – nothing to do with Parma Violets). Apricot jam, fig jam, a contact of liquorice… All that’s good. End: medium, recent. A drop of gewurztraminer, pardon my Alsatian. Turkish delights, rose jam, liquorice allsorts… Feedback: I had no doubts this is able to be wonderful.
SGP:641 – 89 factors. |
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Dartigalongue 1988 (45%, OB, Bas-armagnac, cask #446, 492 bottles, +/-2020?)
Excessive hopes. Color: crimson amber. Nostril: a bit shier and extra austere than the boisterous 2002, with much more cedar and sandal woods, actually extra tobacco, sudden mineral notes (crushed slate) after which a bit cough drugs, eucalyptus, a bit camphor changing into clear, outdated barrels, or simply ‘visiting an outdated chai within the Gers’. We want do this quickly. Mouth: oh, way more fruits, that is nearly a wealthy man’s sangria, with many oranges, cinnamon, star anise, liquorice, well-frozen prunella (sloe), rancio wine, and maybe drops of very outdated candy Malaga. That is proper, Pedro. End: relatively lengthy, jammy, with some uncooked chocolate and a few espresso, walnut wine, and just a bit black Wulong within the aftertaste. Trace of tar. Loads of liquorice within the retro. Feedback: I like each 2002 and the 1988 the identical, they’re each excellent in their very own methods.
SGP:561 – 89 factors. |
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I’ve to say one feels effectively at Dartigalongue, so let’s merely go on for a wee whereas (vertically, in fact)…
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Dartigalongue 1975 (44%, OB, Bas-armagnac, cask #025, 358 bottles, +/-2020?)
Color: crimson amber. Nostril: it’s totally fascinating to verify how these armagnacs change once they become older, I am questioning if it was the aim of the Maître de Chai within the first place. Fruits fading away, dried herbs and hardwoods coming to the entrance, tertiary aromas chiming in, akin to mushrooms, barks, outdated stoop, pipe tobacco, outdated books and simply very outdated balsamic vinegar. Additionally teak oil and wee whiffs of latest rubber boots. Moderately masterful. Mouth: 90 factors, so long. Severely, we’re experiencing simply the identical, advanced spices and tertiary components showing, teas, spices, cocoa, espresso, tobaccos, dried porcini, honey-glazed ham (very mwah), dry black raisins, plus a wee slice of that factor that is scaring us all, Christmas cake. End: medium, fruitier. The fruits by no means really gave up, apricots, marmalade, peach confit… with some honey and sticky toffee pudding within the aftertaste. Feedback: what a sequence. Because it seems, Dartigalongue are one of many only a few true jewellers of armagnac.
SGP:461 – 90 factors. |
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We have got a number of others, what will we do? -You are proper, why break a verticale?
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Dartigalongue 1967 (43%, OB, Bas-armagnac, bonbonne #3, 83 bottles, +/-2020?)
That is the factor, bonbonnes a.okay.a. dames-jeannes a.okay.a. demijohns will stop any outdated juice from getting too drained and woody, whereas nonetheless permitting some mild, subdued, delicate adjustments to occur. So, maturation goes on (albeit at a a lot, a lot, and I imply a lot slower tempo, until they allow them to breathe utilizing bits of hessian between the stopper and the glass) whereas flavouring with oak is stopped. Precisely what the Scots ought to do as effectively, ought to that be allowed (simply my opinion). Color: amber. Nostril: top-notch acetone and mannequin glue, ala very nice outdated bourbon, then gorgeous vine peaches and jujubes. Broom, wallflower, then damp earth and a drop of miso soup, in addition to a bit walnut wine and amontillado. Respect. Mouth: it is all shifting – and loving – round natural teas, tobaccos and cinnamon, I’d say. Would like to be taught when the cask was disgorged, most likely not that way back. It is relatively extremely vibrant having mentioned that, which might relatively recommend, effectively, simply the other. You by no means know, these outdated armagnacs are like actual individuals, all totally different and unpredictable. Raisins and a beautiful wee smokiness (cigar-smoked salmon, ever tried that?) End: medium however extremely fruity and recent. Peaches, sultanas, hints of mangos, cinnamon, tea and a bit nutmeg. Hints of varnish and excessive esters are again within the aftertaste, which I discover very humorous. Feedback: fairly focussed and compact, in truth. The Jimi Hendrix Expertise, 1967 certainly. A lot love.
SGP:562 – 91 factors. |
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In reality I had deliberate to go even additional down the years, however I now suppose that may be a bit ‘an excessive amount of’. If you happen to do not thoughts, we’ll maintain just a few glories for our subsequent armagnac session…
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