Interview with Max von Olfers of Cognac Professional | Malt

I used to assume rum – or sugarcane spirits usually – was the hardest Western spirit to find out about. Now that a whole lot of details about rum has develop into way more accessible, I believe it’s brandy and eau-de-vie which can be troublesome to find out about, largely as a result of the producers are likely to maintain to themselves. Sure, we find out about just a few large French brandy manufacturers, however – apart from their advertising and marketing – how intimately do we all know the class(ies)?

It’s an excellent factor that folk from these areas, similar to Cognac, have began to be extra seen on-line. One nice instance is Cognac Professional. I’ve talked about them in earlier opinions, since I purchased from them and so they’ve additionally despatched me samples of Cognac earlier than. In reality, they’ve develop into my go-to on-line Cognac retailer ever since. Fortunately, they agreed to grace us with their time, to assist us navigate and perceive Cognac higher.

Malt: Hello Max, thanks for sharing your time. Are you able to introduce your self and inform us about Cognac Professional?

Cognac Professional: My title is Max von Olfers and, along with my sister Sophie, we created Cognac Professional again in 2009, purely as a weblog to shine a highlight on the good work being executed by the area’s smaller, extra artisanal type Cognac producers. Our headquarters is positioned at our household domaine, the Logis de Beaulieu, positioned in Poullignac within the Southern finish of the Charente; Bons Bois & Fins Bois territory.

Cognac Professional later developed right into a small e-commerce enterprise to help the summer season trip leases at Beaulieu, and all different upkeep and work on web site. Now in 2022, Cognac Professional has blossomed right into a full-fledged e-commerce enterprise, nonetheless with the core DNA of telling the story, selling, and promoting small manufacturing Cognac all world wide. We additionally develop our personal Originals, similar to L’ESSENTIEL, Sophie & Max Sélection, and the annual Cognac Calendar. We’re creating an increasing number of content material round Cognac, notably the print journal and the podcast. For a number of years now we’ve expanded our B2B exercise, which works on customized tasks for shoppers world wide.

Our ardour runs deep for Cognac: the spirit, the area, and its individuals

Malt: The Cognac Professional web site mentions you’re from a household of farmers. Apart from this and promoting Cognac, what else do you do? Does Cognac Professional supply distillery excursions by any likelihood? I really feel like one of many causes whisky has so many followers is its accessibility. So long as one can journey, it’s simple to go to distilleries in locations like Scotland and Kentucky.

Cognac Professional: From the time when our grandparents ran the property, there have all the time been vines and the apple orchard. Two years in the past we replanted 1.5 hectares of vines, all natural, which requires a loopy period of time, and we’ve lately reestablished the apple orchard, from which we make apple juice with annually’s harvest.

For the reason that Sixties, at Logis de Beaulieu, we’ve numerous trip leases that we handle throughout the summer season months. This truly requires a whole lot of work and a focus… and love. Any Cognac lovers within the area ought to cease by the domaine.

For company at Beaulieu, we will certainly prepare intensive Cognac tastings on web site, and we can assist prepare visits with Cognac producers.

Malt: Increasingly drinkers are moving into spirits as we converse. Whisk(e)y is at the moment on prime. However elements like palate fatigue, rising costs, and the shortage of desired expressions are making a whole lot of whisk(e)y drinkers look into malternatives. Being a web-based retailer of Cognac, how briskly has the expansion of Cognac been out of your perspective?

Cognac Professional: After we started in 2009, the web was not a fascinating place to be current for Cognac producers. The Cognac area may be thought-about a conservative area, so new issues take time to stay. In the present day, producers understand the web is a crucial and beneficial direct-to-consumer channel. Smaller Cognac producers specifically have higher alternatives than ever to promote their merchandise and inform the story about their product.

Cognac Professional’s progress has very a lot adopted the dynamics of the market. We at the moment are the most important web site devoted to Cognac, and we’ve served the wave of Cognac curiosity over the previous decade in locations just like the USA and Germany, to call just some.

Malt: After going past The Huge 4 (Rèmy Martin, Hennessy, Martell, and Courvoisier), one of many first issues I realized of are the sub-regions of Cognac (Grand Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fin Bois, Bon Bois and Bois Ordinaires). Which of those are the most well-liked?

Cognac Professional: We are able to truly contemplate it to be the Huge 5 at the moment, now with the arrival of Bacardi’s D’Usse, endorsed by Jay-Z.

However concerning the sub-regions, or crus: indubitably, the most well-liked is the Grande Champagne. However, be mindful I don’t imply to say that the very best Cognacs solely come from this cru. However, sure, there isn’t a doubt that Cognacs from the Grande Champagne are extremely wanted and common amongst Cognac Professional shoppers

In speaking with plenty of producers about this topic, many will agree that the Grande Champagne doesn’t essentially make the very best Cognacs, however it does produce Cognacs which have the very best growing old functionality. That’s: even after 50, 60, 70 years in barrel, Cognacs from the Grande Champagne can nonetheless maintain the gorgeous fruit notes and freshness intact; then, in fact, there’s an exquisite rancio.

However, in fact, there are beauties in all kinds of various kinds from all crus. To solely search out Grande Champagne Cognacs could be a mistake

Malt: This leads me to marvel additionally: does Cognac have any distinguishable kinds? Single malt can largely differentiated by kinds similar to sherry bomb, closely peated, frivolously peated, and meaty/soiled. Are there stylistic variations between Cognac from every area? How do the long-time Cognac lovers distinguish the totally different manufacturers?

Cognac Professional: There are distinguishable kinds, however the variations are maybe extra delicate than with whisky. For instance: in case you pour a sherried Speyside and an Islay whisky alongside one another, they are going to be night time and day totally different. In reality, that’s one among interesting issues about
Whisky; the kinds may be so distinguishable that it’s comparatively “simple” to discover a
appropriate type for every palate. One can style an Islay and a sherried Speyside and simply
perceive what the final type of every is like (simply speaking about normal kinds, I’m under no circumstances suggesting whisky just isn’t a delicate and complicated spirit).

For Cognac, the type variations are current however trickier to decipher. Put a Grande Champagne alongside and Petite Champagne and issues develop into very exhausting. Some actually trustworthy producers on the market will say the identical factor. Nevertheless, a Bois Ordinaires alongside a Fins Bois alongside a Grande Champagne will probably be fairly fascinating and simple to identify the variations.

There are various manufacturing elements that decide the ensuing Cognac’s so-called type:

• Grape selection (most use ugni blanc)
• Alambic measurement
• Length of distillation
• Distillation with lees or with out
• Cuts for the bonne chauffe
• Size of time in new oak
• Provenance of the brand new oak: Limousin or Tronçais (extensive grain vs nice grain, respectively)
• Toast
• Cellar circumstances: dry or humid, or maybe each
• Size of time spent in previous oak
• Time allowed for the discount
• Obscuration (components, and so forth)

The entire above manufacturing questions result in Cognacs of differing aroma and taste profiles, totally different kinds. I’m positive I’m lacking some, however you get the thought. In whisky, there may be a whole lot of discuss concerning the cask: first fill, second fill, energetic, drained, hogshead, octave, PX, and on and on. In Cognac, the cask is important, in fact, however much less talked about. Everyone seems to be utilizing French oak, so the palette of choices is lower than with whisky. For the oldest Cognacs, they’re spending the vast majority of their life in very previous oak with no tannins left to offer, only a gradual microoxygenation.

However then there may be the precise meant type of Cognac from the producer. Some examples:

• VS, VSOP, mixable Cognacs, simply drinkable (facile a boire)
• Old skool, darkish boisé type; I lately visited a small producer near Blanzac and tasted this very previous however loopy darkish closely boiséd Cognac. It’s undoubtedly a mode that’s not in trend any extra: darkish, heavy, candy.
• Andre Petit “gourmande” type, spherical however sturdy, advanced, fruity, intense style, worth for cash, 40% ABV.
• Single cask, vintages, purist Grosperrin type. This type of Cognac has actually picked up tempo. A number of fascinating stuff right here.
• Loopy previous: 50, 60, 80+ years, extremely premium, luxurious. Suppose Louis XIII and different comparable very mature however luxurious Cognacs. Typically in decanters that may themselves be thought-about artwork.

There’s a Cognac for everybody, that’s for positive

Malt: I turned extra inquisitive about French brandy via the American market as a result of they’re extra vocal about it on sure Fb teams. Apart from sure common Armagnac manufacturers being wood-forward, I believe additionally they like that there are clear age statements with vintages, bottled at excessive ABV and extra accessible single casks. Would you recognize why Cognac has been gradual to adapt to those preferences? I believe sticking to utilizing VSOPs, XOs, and bottling at 40% is making whisky drinkers hesitant to discover the class

Cognac Professional: It’s true that the overwhelming majority of Cognac is bottled at 40% ABV and follows the usual age classification for blends: VS, VSOP, XO, and so forth. This received’t change quickly. Do not forget that conservative mindset within the area I discussed earlier

Vintages and age assertion Cognacs are certainly allowed, however the guidelines as said within the cahier des expenses (like an official Cognac rulebook) regarding the compte age system require razor sharp month-to-month and annual documentation. Many producers don’t wish to undergo the difficulty of that, in order that they adhere to the principles in place relating to VS, VSOP, XO, and so forth.

If a producer desires to point age on a label, however not formally declare an age assertion or a classic, there are many choices accessible. We truly wrote a weblog article on this actual matter.

I have no idea what the respective guidelines are in Armagnac, Scotch whisky, or Rum regarding how they show their age statements. Positive, we will all agree that on a Scotch whisky label the age have to be a minimal age, however what’s required of the producer to justify that? Nobody ever talks about that. In Cognac, something that goes on a label have to be justified and documented. This ensures good traceability. It’s a bit excessive, however it’s the best way it’s and, once more, I don’t see it altering anytime quickly.

Malt: Nearly the entire brandy and rum drinkers I do know used to drink whisky completely. Are you aware of Cognac followers who had been beforehand into different drinks earlier than they actually took a liking to Cognac? I believe a whole lot of whisky drinkers present some curiosity as a result of they’re each brown spirits. I’m looking for if Cognac has one other angle or connection to different classes that may make them .

Cognac Professional: First, I might say wine lovers. The connection between wine and Cognac may be very shut, so it’s solely pure for wine lovers to take an curiosity in Cognac. Even once you go to producers within the Cognac area, it’s unimaginable to neglect that the area is a wine area not in contrast to any of France’s different well-known wine areas. There’s simply the added step of distillation and lengthy barrel growing old.

As for spirits: I do know a handful of people that had been into different spirits – primarily rum and single malt whisky – earlier than critically taking the dive into Cognac, however they by no means actually abandon anyone spirit, fortunately. There’s one thing to be mentioned for variety. I even assume tasting different spirits can assist one’s understanding and appreciation of their “essential” spirit.

One different factor that we’ve observed is that many people are beginning to take discover of Cognac due to the unbelievable worth for age Cognac provides. For instance, a fifty yr previous Scotch whisky will probably be exhausting to seek out, and in case you discover one, it would value you dearly. However, a fifty yr previous Cognac (even when it isn’t formally said 50 years previous on the label) is comparatively simple to seek out. It’s not low-cost, however comparatively talking it presents great worth in comparison with the identical aged whisky. So many people’ eyebrows increase after they see this sort of pricing scenario.

Costs are by no means static, so who is aware of the place issues will probably be with Cognac in 5, ten, twenty years.

Malt: Apart from the Huge 4, what are Cognac manufacturers you’d suggest to these trying to discover Cognac?

Cognac Professional: Our mission at Cognac Professional has been and all the time will probably be to advertise the variety of Cognac. Solely in Cognac will you discover a panorama of 3000+ grower-distillers, every with their very own household custom and heritage rising and distilling.

It’s exhausting to choose one model, so I received’t title manufacturers, however what I recommend is {that a} newcomer to Cognac begins with a VSOP and an XO from a small artisanal type producer. It will already give the taster an excellent indication of how aroma and taste profiles evolve for Cognac after time within the barrel. Observe that many smaller producer’s XO are already aged 20+ years, even when it solely says XO on the label. Even our Sophie & Max Choice bottlings could be an excellent match for the XO high quality bottle. This collection may be very people-centric, specializing in the people who make it, and sometimes incorporates mature blended Cognac that’s bottled simply above the usual 40% and incorporates no components.

Then, the subsequent bottle would undoubtedly be a single cask Cognac bottling. These have gotten an increasing number of common and there may be some actually incredible stuff on the market. One such instance is our L’ESSENTIEL bottlings.

For these first bottles, ideally they’re from the identical cru. Then, if the particular person’s curiosity has peaked sufficient, then they need to discover the opposite crus and older and youthful expressions. The chances actually are infinite.

On our web site we’ve a Cognac Advice Assistant that can provide actually good concepts for the place to start out one’s Cognac journey primarily based on numerous elements: taste, aromas, value, design and so forth. And naturally, one can merely write us an e mail with any particular questions they might have. We’d love to assist out.

Malt: Are you able to discuss concerning the L’ESSENTIEL vary? I’ve been fortunate to have tried a pair and I believe they’re value realizing about.

Cognac Professional: Within the spirits neighborhood there may be a whole lot of discuss unbiased bottlers. L’ESSENTIEL is mainly Cognac Professional’s personal Cognac unbiased bottling collection. That being mentioned, the phrase “unbiased” is imperfect. I contemplate that we rely fully on the producer for these bottlings, so dependent bottler is certainly the extra applicable time period.

The L’ESSENTIEL collection was created throughout the peak of the COVID-19 disaster, as communities world wide had been confined to their houses and Cognac producers had been reduce off from their typical contact with guests and different clients. It was a time of uncertainty and concern for a lot of, so we noticed it as a possibility to decelerate, mirror, and reunite – ralentir, reflechir, reunir – and luxuriate in a top quality Cognac that straight supported the small producers all through the area.

We’re at the moment in our second “season” of L’ESSENTIEL. The underlying ethos has been and can all the time be to help the small producers within the Cognac area, and to gradual issues down and dwell the current second. However, this yr we’ve made an effort to make the Cognacs extra exact, extra clear… extra geeky, mainly. Here’s a desk we revealed that highlights the totally different emphases of the L’ESSENTIEL “seasons”:

All these so-called “dependent bottler” bottlings are exhibiting up an increasing number of lately, and we view that as a really optimistic factor for Cognac. It brings consideration to Cognac from different spirit classes, a stronger sense of neighborhood (on-line) has resulted from these bottlings, and – let’s face it – the Cognacs may be actually actually good.

Nonetheless, Cognac as an entire is the massive manufacturers, the younger and previous blends (VS, VSOP, XO, Hors d’Age), the vintages, and these single cask dependent bottler bottlings. Cognac as a spirit is richer due to this.

Proper now, the L’ESSENTIEL A29 from Grosperrin (pig hut Cognac, Fins Bois), the L’ESSENTIEL A45 from Marancheville (three 60L mini casks mix, Grande Champagne), and the L’ESSENTIEL A12 from our neighbors Conte & Filles (distillation with out lees, Tronçais oak, Petite Champagne) are launched and accessible. One other will come earlier than yr’s finish.

With this interview, I conclude my string of Cognac-related contributions. Thanks once more to Max of Cognac Professional for enlightening us about Cognac. Hopefully the readers will discover this convenient and be inspired to discover Cognac extra.

My aim has all the time been to boost consciousness and educate on different spirits. Hopefully those that sit up for the Sunday malternatives loved this. I’ll be taking a break from contributing, so this will probably be my final piece for Malt for some time.

Photos courtesy of Cognac Professional.