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Dwelling Hundreds of tastings, all of the music, all of the rambligs and all of the enjoyable (hopefully!)
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Hello, that is one in all our (nearly) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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July 3, 2021
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Angus’s Nook From our Scottish correspondent and expert taster Angus MacRaild in Edinburgh |
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Trusty Ardmore |
I am undecided Ardmore is trusty in any respect actually. However there may be loads of it about as of late, and regardless of it being a characterful make, it would not appear to have an excessive amount of traction amongst whisky geeks. Maybe that’s due to branding and that it’s perceived as ubiquitous, or low cost? Maybe it’s as a result of it sometimes tastes barely like poo. Who is aware of? What I do know, is that I retain a sizeable delicate spot for Ardmore and that, regardless of some sometimes stylistic ‘unlikeliness’, I am all the time entertained by it and joyful to attempt it. Extra importantly, the distillery itself is properly price a glance spherical when you ever get an opportunity to go to, the folks there very beautiful and real folks. |
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Ardmore 9 yo (59.5%, A D Rattray ‘Warehouse Assortment’, bourbon) Color: pale white wine. Nostril: this relatively acquainted sooty ‘mustiness’ that does certainly soak up mustard, sack fabric, sheep wool and hints of mud. Additionally these acquainted farmyard vibes of hayloft and goat. With water: sandalwood and hessian bung fabric. With some additional impressions of damp moss and lanolin. Mouth: excellent, relatively lots of moist chalk, plaster, smoked olive oil, sheep wool oils once more and a restrained peat smoke. Fairly oily and mineral – mineral oil you would possibly say. With water: a properly oily and satisfyingly ‘full’ texture within the mouth now. Some bitter lemon, camphor, putty and limestone too. End: good size, barely fatty, salty, natural and nonetheless with this lighter, background peat. Feedback: humble, strong, reliable Ardmore. I believe the one factor with these batches is that the peat by no means appears to know if it is coming or going. SGP: 474 – 84 factors.
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Ardmore 14 yo 2006/2020 (58.9%, The Whisky Cellar, cask #801024, hogshead, 276 bottles) Color: pale white wine. Nostril: comparable territories however the additional few years of age appear to amplify these mineral and chalky elements of the profile. Mineral oils, moist chalk, pebbles, camphor and even a wee mechanical aspect with issues like oily toolbox rags. As soon as once more this relatively ethereal peat smoke. With water: plain cereals, cooking oils, damp smoke – we’re entering into early 90s Cadenhead territories of petrol-driven austerity right here. Mouth: relatively sharp and taut on arrival. Additionally one thing a bit of in direction of plasticine and plain porridge. Quite extra unlikely territories I believe. With water: a bit of ‘straighter’ and extra classical however nonetheless extraordinarily uncooked, austere and distillate pushed. Ideological nearly. End: medium, acrid, drying, peppery and really targeted on plain cereals. Feedback: The uncommon event the place I would say a barely extra lively cask would have helped. The type of whisky that Serge would categorise as ‘mental’ I think. Now, it is not with out its charms… SGP: 352 – 81 factors.
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Ardmore 1998/2018 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Distillery labels’) Straightforward to overlook about these licensed collection from G&M as of late, however I imagine they shelter many very effective on daily basis quaffing drams. Color: gold. Nostril: these 90s vintages are a unique kettle of malt from the late 2000s batches I believe. That is extra on gingery, mentholated, leafy sherry, roasted nuts, sport meats, golden syrup on brown toast and wee touches of leather-based, sultana and shoe polish. Appears like a extra quaint kind of bottling, which I imply in a optimistic sense. Some beautiful softer medicines and peat smoke too. Mouth: as soon as once more, there’s some good casks at play right here I believe. This impression of chocolate gingers, tobacco leaf, delicate earthiness, pulpy stewed darkish fruits and some pickled walnuts. Extraordinarily simple to drink, and nonetheless feels fairly ‘Ardmoreish’. There is a properly delicate, leathery peat word beneath the sherry which works properly. End: good size, some bitter chocolate, caffe latte, praline, toasted walnuts and natural teas with lemon. Feedback: nice feeling of maturity. And the ABV feels prefer it’s very a lot designed as one thing uncomplicated to quaff from a pitcher of a night – a method which G&M appear to have mastered with a lot of these bottlings. I discover lots of pleasure on this wee Ardmore. SGP: 463 – 87 factors.
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Ardmore 24 yo 1996/2021 (52%, Gordon & MacPhail ‘Non secular dwelling unique sixth version’, cask #3515, refill sherry hogshead, 219 bottles) Color: amber – fairly darkish for a refill. Nostril: did they refill one in all their Nineteen Fifties Talisker sherry casks? I am sorry however it is a beautiful mixture of soy sauce, pure tar, mentholated pinewood resins, pu erh teas and salted liquorice. An distinctive sherry profile that, given blind, I would most likely have mentioned was 60s or earlier. With a while there is a tiny extra ‘Ardmore’ accent rising, nevertheless it’s wrapped up so superbly in all this sherry. With water: evolves extra in direction of outdated leather-based, dunnage should, hessian and smoked meats. A slight however distinctive farmyard voice on the again from Ardmore. Mouth: stunning arrival! Completely clear, pure and vivid sherry. Extra soy sauce, umami paste, inexperienced walnut liqueur, root beer, extra pure tar, black pepper, sport meats. Vastly concentrated and but additionally superbly properly balanced towards the distillate and ABV. Extra of those impressions of earthy, aged black teas and unique hardwood resins. Some tiny threads of peat smoke. With water: softer, extra dried darkish fruits, black pepper, dried flowers, natural teas, walnuts and a evenly saline rancio. End: lengthy and fairly complicated, all on dried citrus peels, hessian, delicate medicines, herbs, pot pourri, touches of caraway, paprika and extra walnut liqueur. Feedback: what a cask! Sensible, old style sherry – paying homage to some 60s Springbanks. I’d like to know its historical past and what the primary fill was? Both method, a very beautiful Ardmore: balanced, deeply complicated, clear, recent and charming. SGP: 562 – 91 factors.
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