“And at all times embrace issues, individuals earth sky stars, as I do, freely and with the suitable sense of house” ― Frank O’Hara.
The quote above might be present in “A True Account of Speaking to the Solar at Hearth Island” whereby, because the title suggests, the solar wakes the sleeping poet to supply its recommendation on his work. This line specifically at all times stood out to me, because it underscores a lot of what makes life stunning. That’s to say: a factor must be embraced for what it’s at its core, but in addition given the grace to exist as a thing-unto-itself and with out comparability to different things-of-its-sort.
That, in fact, runs counter to a lot of what whiskey opinions intend to perform. We’re tasked not solely with judging a whiskey by itself deserves, but in addition in helping you, pricey reader. In doing so, we should at instances trot out the thief of pleasure – comparability – for the sake of furthering your understanding.
As Taylor not too long ago famous in his consideration of two New Riff picks, I’ve at instances been strongly against opinions of retailer picks. They signify an exceedingly small phase of the alcohol made accessible by a distillery and, as such, serve solely as a normal indication of aptitude (or lack thereof) extra so than a helpful evaluation of high quality.
To say it plainly: single barrels are, by definition, exceptions. As a result of they’re typically outliers, solely attainable by a small subset of the whiskey-buying public, reviewing them appears to fall extra into the class of “passing curiosity” fairly than “useful software.”
That stated, I recognize all of them the identical as a result of I get pleasure from them for exactly what they’re. All of us discover ourselves liable to passing curiosities, whether or not it’s gazing a beat longer on the engaging stranger on the road, or perusing musings on an unobtainable whiskey. Given the suitable sense of house, we allow ourselves to get pleasure from “artwork for artwork’s sake,” and there’s quite a lot of magnificence in that.
At the moment, nonetheless, I hope this evaluate will likely be of particular help to you. I will likely be reviewing New Riff’s flagship expressions. For all of the fanfare they obtained once they first launched – each for the standard of the whiskey and the trendy bottle that accommodates it – New Riff appears to have pale from the collective whiskey fanatic’s consideration. With so many “new” distilleries popping up, it’s straightforward for any variety of them to get misplaced within the ever-growing craft class which accommodates a swath of good-to-great producers with whiskey within the four-to-eight 12 months vary.
Whereas New Riff’s single barrel picks are spectacular (Taylor additionally reviewed a Justins’ Home of Bourbon retailer decide), let’s discover out at present whether or not their off-the-shelf expressions warrant an embrace, or some continued house to see the place they’ll be in a number of years’ time.
Each the New Riff Straight Bourbon and the New Riff Straight Rye are bottled in bond merchandise (and thus 100 proof/50% ABV) that are non-chill filtered. Let’s start with a evaluate of New Riff Bourbon, and be aware that New Riff bourbon accommodates a non-GMO mash invoice of 65% corn, 30% rye, and 5% malted barley. Additionally of be aware is that each one New Riff bourbon is aged for no less than 4 years in 53 gallon barrels, which is the trade normal dimension, however one which craft distilleries typically eschew. The MSRP for New Riff Bourbon is $45 although – within the curiosity of transparency – this bottle was offered to me for free of charge.
New Riff Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey – Evaluate
Shade: Mild amber with glints of orange
On the nostril: Shiny pink maraschino cherries and cooked apricot emerge at first, joined by a little bit of orange peel. There are additionally aromas of graham cracker and vanilla extract that are joined by black pepper, recent hay, and a cactus-like leafy inexperienced be aware. There’s an total mild and candy ripeness on the nostril that’s nice which is accompanied by a vegetal streak harking back to pine plus suntan lotion. That’s surprisingly not a foul factor!
Within the mouth: Instantly I’m struck by how lean the flavour profile is. The place the nostril promised a cavalcade of attention-grabbing notes, on the palate I’m left with solely blood orange with some slight turmeric and a contact of brown sugar thrown in. It’s barely drying on the again finish, although not distractingly so. It has a silky mouthfeel total (owing, little question, to the actual fact it’s non chill filtered) and so the dryness that encroaches on the end is a welcome growth that encourages continued sipping regardless of not being significantly lengthy.
Conclusions:
Right here the nostril makes guarantees that, sadly, the palate fails to maintain. The place there’s a beautiful mélange of fruit sweetness and intriguing vegetal notes to begin, as soon as it reaches the palate they dissipate disappointingly. All in all, it’s a great pour however the noticeable let down from nosing to sipping warrants criticism regardless of the commonly promising development right here. At $45 it’s priced a hair larger than I’d like, however not sufficient to dock it an extra level as the general worth is truthful.
Rating: 4/10
Subsequent let’s dive into New Riff’s Straight Rye whiskey. New Riff’s rye mash invoice accommodates 95% rye following a method made well-known by Seagram’s/MGP of Indiana, the place Larry Ebersold (consulting Grasp Distiller for the rye) turned generally known as the “Godfather of Rye Whiskey.” The so-called riff that they placed on that iconic mash invoice was to then embody 5% malted rye, fairly than malted barley, in an try to set themselves aside and stay true to their title.
As aforementioned, this New Riff Rye is a bottled in bond product (100 proof/50% ABV) which is aged no less than 4 years in 53 gallon barrels and priced at $45 per 750ml bottle. Once more, this bottle was offered to me for free of charge to myself however I will likely be judging it based mostly on the retail worth.
New Riff Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey – Evaluate
Shade: Flaxen honey.
On the nostril: A rye-forward nostril the place candy mint, faint black cherry, mild black pepper, and a cotton candy-like sugary be aware take cost. A spot of honey and woodchips additionally waft out of the glass. Total that is unmistakably a rye whiskey (because the mash invoice confirms) however for many who are against heavy spice and dill notes, they’re virtually totally absent as this can be a sweeter and extra effervescent illustration of the class.
Within the mouth: The ethereal sugariness of cotton sweet greets the tip of the tongue earlier than a wave of candy mint (suppose mint chewing gum) washes over the tongue. There’s a sure earthiness at midpalate that dulls the sweetness, the mint, and the general pleasantness earlier than a slight spice awakens on the end. Right here I’m experiencing clove and the faintest indication of butterscotch. On repeat sips the black cherry from the nostril belatedly joins the celebration and livens up the earthiness at midpalate making for an total extra cohesive pour. Just like the bourbon the mouthfeel is easy, which is to say it’s good and never an afterthought. Once more echoing the bourbon, the end for that is on the quick aspect.
Conclusions:
Regardless of being extra of a bourbon drinker than a rye man, I don’t suppose it’s surprising to say that rye typically presents higher at a youthful age. That knowledge prevails right here because the expertise from nosing to tasting is extra uniform and the flavors are extra pronounced and pleasing within the rye than they’re within the bourbon. I fairly favored this one, because it had a chewy high quality that leaves the bourbon within the mud and cotton candy-esque sugariness making it a simple alternative for somebody with an overactive candy tooth like myself.
Rating: 5/10
It could appear as if I’ve didn’t stay as much as the quote on the prime of this evaluate, in evaluating these two aspect by aspect (and in contemplating them as a reference level to Taylor’s earlier write-ups) however I hope that with the suitable sense of house you’ll be able to recognize every of those for what they’re.
It isn’t day by day that the solar speaks to a poet, simply because it isn’t day by day {that a} craft distillery chooses to attend 4 years for his or her distillate to “come of age” or forego the inexplicably in style chill filtration course of earlier than presenting it to shoppers. Although these are developments being embraced by different craft distilleries (there I am going evaluating once more…) they’re commendable selections and ones which have paid dividends for New Riff’s flagship expressions.
When you haven’t revisited both of those whiskeys since they had been first launched 3 years in the past, right here’s your cue to embrace them as soon as once more. It can deepen your appreciation for what these distinctive single barrel picks are in a position to accomplish.
Photographs (and bottles) courtesy of New Riff.
