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Exploring Spain: day journeys for wine lovers


With its advanced historical past and tradition, typically tremendous climate, huge number of landscapes, and top-quality meals and wines, it’s no shock that Spain is among the world’s prime journey locations. However given such a spread of selection, particularly for the wine-loving traveller, choices must be made when planning a visit.

Is it higher to journey round and see as many various locations as attainable? Or do you have to discover only one or two locations in enough depth to really feel that you simply actually get to know them? Someplace in between is the artwork of the day journey, selecting a spot as your base of operations to discover correctly, whereas supplementing your go to with excursions to different close by areas.

Right here we’ve put collectively a collection of day journeys from common locations. They embody the distinctive Basque nation enchantment of Bilbao; cosmopolitan Barcelona and Madrid with their magnificent cityscapes, structure and tradition; and the southern charms of sunny Seville and coastal Málaga. Utilizing any of those as a base, you may head out to discover the neighbouring cities and countryside and, in fact, pattern the delights of a spread of native cuisines and wines in a number of the nation’s principal wine areas.

For a number of the day-trip locations you may select between travelling by public transport or hiring a automobile for a self-guided expertise. Though Spain may be very nicely related, with a very good community of practice and bus routes, few producers have wineries inside cities or cities, so when selecting public transport a mixture of both bus and practice, with the occasional taxi journey, could also be required. A guided day tour can remove the stress of coordinating practice and bus schedules, or logistics of automobile rent, route planning and parking – although for some that is all a part of the journey. Whichever choice you select, reserving vineyard visits, actions and eating places prematurely is crucial.


Bilbao

Bakio – Bodega Doniene Gorrondona – San Juan de Gaztelugatxe – Bermeo

The precipitous winding steps on San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, close to Bakio. Credit score: Andrea Comi / Getty Photographs

We begin our day in Bakio, a small coastal city surrounded by mountains about 40 minutes from Bilbao (north by way of the BI-631 street). Its authentic functions as a fishing village and centre of the iron trade have been changed by tourism, and it’s additionally turn into recognized for its Txakoli, the favored native Basque white wine, which is what brings us right here. Begin the day with an early go to to the Txakolingunea Txakoli museum (@txakolingunea) to study one thing concerning the historical past of each the area and its wines.

There are a number of bodegas in and round Bakio, however significantly advisable is Doniene Gorrondona. The vineyard house owners are Andoni, Egoitz, Itziar and Julen. The vineyards right here have been recovered after many of the native vines have been deserted in the course of the phylloxera plague of the late nineteenth century. To go to the vineyards and vineyard you may select from a spread of every day visits (minimal 4 individuals) beginning at €15, or personal excursions can be found by association.

From Bakio it’s a brief drive to the island of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (examine euskoguide.com or visitbiscay.eus), a phenomenal hermitage on a formidable rocky island simply off the rugged shoreline. If it appears to be like acquainted, it’s as a result of it featured because the citadel of Dragonstone in HBO’s Sport of Thrones and Home of the Dragon. The fort was CGI in fact, however the causeway bridge and winding steps to the highest of the island are actual. Though it’s thought that the island was first constructed on within the ninth century, the present church is late nineteenth century. Keep in mind to ring the bell and make a want when you make it that far.

Just a little additional on is our final cease for the day, the fishing port of Bermeo. Highlights right here embody the outdated port itself, which is notable for the colorful homes alongside Lamera park and its environment, together with the On line casino constructing. Take a stroll by means of the outdated city to the primary sq., and luxuriate in some pintxos in one of many native bars earlier than heading just a little out of city to cease for a late lunch at Almiketxu, which specialises in wood-grilled regionally sourced meat and fish with greens from its personal backyard.

With a little bit of planning, this day trip will be organised utilizing a mixture of the native buses and taxis, however it’s best achieved in your personal automobile or with a automobile and driver.

Guernica – Bodegas Itsasmendi – Asador Etxebarri

Asador Etxebarri, Axpe. Credit score: Bilbao Turismo

A go to to the ‘Basque king of the barbecue’ (chef Victor Arguinzoniz) may very well be thought-about a day-trip vacation spot in itself. However if you wish to make much more of your time, then after an early breakfast make your method to the city of Guernica, about 35 minutes from Bilbao (head east on the AP-8 then north by way of the BI-635). Time allowing, you can too go to a vineyard in a nature reserve earlier than arriving at your lunch vacation spot: meat mecca Asador Etxebarri.

Guernica is greatest recognized for Picasso’s well-known portray depicting the bombing of the city by the Germans and Italians in the course of the Spanish civil warfare. Though the unique is in Madrid, a mural of the portray will be discovered within the city centre, near the Museum of Peace. Additionally shut by are the Meeting home and the tree of Guernica, symbols of Basque independence and democracy.

Inside the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve – a 230km² UNESCO-designated pure area – simply to the south of Guernica you’ll discover Bodegas Itsasmendi. Based in 1994, and moved to its present location between Muxika and Guernica in 2003, the corporate’s 35ha of vineyards are distributed throughout 15 websites all through the province of Bizkaia (Biscay). Pioneers in incorporating worldwide grapes resembling Riesling or Pinot Noir into its Txakoli vary, the bodega is in a relentless state of evolution. E-book an early tasting that finishes by 12.30pm (packages at €25-€50).

Heading south once more you’re into wilder nation – take the scenic BI-635 street and don’t miss the turn-off for Ibarruri then Durango on the BI-3332 (put together for hairpin bends and a few super forested views), then choose up the N-634 and N-636 to get to Atxondo; flip off the primary street right here and the nice views proceed all the best way as much as the village of Axpe, nestling within the lush foothills and residential to world-renowned one-star Michelin Asador Etxebarri. The restaurant – based in 1988 by Victor Arguinzoniz, who grew up only a kilometre away – is in a shocking location, and it’s very simple to think about the times when this tiny village had no fuel or electrical energy. Arguinzoniz has turned this concept into his hallmark with a regionally sourced menu based mostly on grilling, particularly grilled meats. You’ll want to e-book nicely prematurely.

Each of those Bilbao-based day journeys ought to get you again to the town in time for a sundowner on the rooftop of the Gran Resort Domine which has spectacular views overlooking Bilbao and the magnificent Guggenheim museum.

For a completely customised expertise to those Basque areas (and others), contact native professional Gabriella Ranelli at Tenedor Excursions.


Barcelona

Alella

Alella vineyards trying down in the direction of El Masnou. Credit score: Hans Geel / Alamy Inventory Picture

The picturesque city of Alella is simply off the coast, about 20km northeast of central Barcelona. There are two public transport choices: you may take the practice from Plaça Catalunya to the close by port city of El Masnou after which a brief taxi or bus journey into Alella. Alternatively you may take the E19 Sagalés bus from the Ronda de Sant Pere (close to Plaça d’Urquinaona) which brings you on to the centre of the city.

When you arrive, the proper begin to the day can be a calming 10am self-care session at Alella Natural Spa. Situated in a Seventeenth-century farmhouse within the coronary heart of city, the small spa provides quite a lot of natural remedy choices for 2, together with massages, facials, scrubs and wraps.

From there you may take a taxi to the family-run Alta Alella. There are scheduled excursions in English (two hours, adults €22) that embody a stroll by means of the vineyards adopted by a wine pairing with 4 wines (nonetheless and glowing), jamón Ibérico and 4 regional cheeses. This takes place outdoors on the vineyard terrace with spectacular views overlooking the Mediterranean. If the timings don’t fairly work, you may e-book forward for a non-public vineyard go to at a time that fits you.

Again in Alella, end with a lateish lunch (3pm) at Restaurante Els Garrofers within the higher barrio, which specialises in up to date Catalan delicacies centered on native merchandise and Mediterranean recipes.

When you’ve come to Alella by practice then it’s possible you’ll need to cease for a post-prandial G&T at one of many bars overlooking the port in El Masnou earlier than heading again to Barcelona. In any other case, as soon as you’re again within the metropolis, you may go for a sundowner at La Dolce Vitae rooftop bar, on the aptly named Majestic Resort on the Passeig de Gràcia, proper within the centre of city.

Sant Sadurní d’Anoia – Llopart – Recaredo

Recaredo, close to Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, manages its vines biodynamically. Credit score: Marçal Font

Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, an hour or so west of Barcelona, is within the coronary heart of Cava nation within the Penedès area. However at the moment’s journey focuses on glowing wines from the comparatively younger designation of Corpinnat, the collective model of a bunch of now 11 established natural glowing wine producers that was first shaped in 2015 and achieved formal EU recognition in late 2017.

Take the practice from Plaça Catalunya in time to reach at Sant Sadurní by 10.30am, then it’s on to an 11am vineyard go to at Llopart, simply 10 minutes away by taxi within the mountains above the city. The winding BP-2427 street as much as the vineyard provides you a style of what to anticipate while you arrive on the vineyards. Its Reserva Tour (about two hours, adults €28) takes you on a stroll not solely by means of the vineyards but additionally by means of the vineyard’s historical past whereas having fun with spectacular views and ending with equally spectacular wines accompanied by native snacks.

Take a taxi again to the city for lunch at Cal Ticus, a well-liked household restaurant providing market delicacies and native merchandise. Along with serving conventional Catalán dishes with a twist, it additionally has an in depth vary of wines which can be out there to buy in its wine store.

Recaredo has been producing terroir-focused wines from its personal vineyards since 1924. Its Origen Go to (3.30-5.30pm, €35 per particular person), at its cellars on Carrer de Tamarit, is a superb introduction to the vineyard’s dedication to lengthy ageing and biodynamic viticulture. You’ll go to the cellar and style 4 long-aged wines (two brut nature and two nonetheless) that seize the essence of the area.

In your method again to the practice station pop into the Simón Coll chocolate manufacturing unit to view (and pattern) its superbly packaged treats, starting from basic and vintage-style goodies to whimsical Cava bottle shapes.


Madrid

Segovia – Bodega Blanco Nieva

The magnificent Roman aqueduct in Segovia. Credit score: Sean Pavone / Alamy Inventory Picture

The medieval metropolis of Segovia is a few 95km northwest of the capital Madrid and makes an ideal day-trip vacation spot. However first we start with an 11am go to to Bodega Blanco Nieva within the village of Santa María la Actual de Nieva, 30km northwest of Segovia.

By automobile from Madrid, head to the bodega by way of the A-6, which turns into the AP-6, then off onto the N-603 for Otero de Herreros. Take the turning onto the SG-723 (for Vegas de Matute) then the SG-313. Lastly, a left onto the CL-605 in the direction of Arévalo takes you northwest on a straight street throughout sweeping plains. The bodega is on the far facet of Santa María, on the SG-342. Afterwards, to get to Segovia, head again alongside the CL-605 all the best way. Alternatively, take the excessive pace AVE practice from Madrid’s Chamartín station to Segovia Guiomar (simply outdoors the town) and from there take a taxi to the bodega.

Santa María la Actual de Nieva boasts a number of glorious wineries that are key to understanding high quality Verdejo wines. At Blanco Nieva you’ll take a stroll by means of the vineyards with their 100-year-old vines and be guided by means of the manufacturing course of earlier than having fun with a tasting within the magnificent halls of the bodega (€40 per particular person, much less for teams).

Arriving in Segovia, your first port of name must be the long-lasting Roman aqueduct that spans the valley on the jap facet of the city. From there it’s a brief stroll up by means of the traditional slim streets to the Plaza Mayor. Right here you’ll discover each the Sixteenth-century late Gothic-style cathedral and, simply off the sq., Restaurante José María, the place founder José María Ruiz has perfected the native speciality of roast suckling pig. Accompanied by a dish of judiones del Actual Sitio (a sort of regional large butter bean) and a glass of Pago de Carraovejas, Ribera del Duero (one other of Ruiz’s tasks), that is quintessential Segovia.

After lunch, stroll up alongside the partitions to the highest of the outdated city and the Alcázar, the royal palace and fortress stated to be one of many inspirations for the unique Disney fort. The Mirador Junto Plaza Reina Victoria Eugenia has breathtaking views throughout the countryside beneath the town.

Bodega Más Que Vinos – Toledo

Adolfo Muñoz, Restaurante Adolfo, Toledo

Our day journey south from Madrid takes us into Castilla-La Mancha, land of Don Quixote, windmills and Manchego cheese, and of some very tremendous wines, which brings you to Más Que Vinos in Cabañas de Yepes, about 50 minutes alongside the A4 from Madrid.

Margarita Madrigal, Alexandra Schmedes and Gonzalo Rodriguez met in 1998 and began working collectively in Rodriguez’s household bodega, La Plazuela in Dosbarrios, which dates again to 1851. Their present bodega within the neighbouring village of Cabañas de Yepes was based in 2007. The tour lasts about 2.5 hours (Monday-Friday, €42 per particular person; Saturday €49 for minimal six individuals) and contains the unique La Plazuela vineyard and the El Horcajo winery, ending again on the Cabañas de Yepes vineyard with a tasting accompanied by native tapas.

Then on to Toledo for lunch. Adolfo Muñoz is considered one of Toledo’s main cooks and his Restaurante Adolfo, which sits on a hill overlooking the town, takes basic Toledo delicacies to the subsequent stage. It additionally boasts what the web site describes as the one city winery in Spain, Viñedos Cigarral Santa María. For a peak epicurean expertise, Iván Cerdeño’s two-star Michelin Cigarral del Angel combines conventional delicacies with tremendous eating and spectacular views.

Toledo is impressively positioned on a hill overlooking the river Tagus, and has been essential since not less than Roman occasions. It was the capital of the Visigothic kingdom of Spain earlier than passing to the Moors after which the Christians. In late medieval occasions, the town had the most important Jewish quarter in Spain and was an essential multicultural centre of studying.

Not surprisingly, Toledo is stuffed with historic websites, such because the synagogues of Santa María La Blanca (now a church) and El Tránsito (now the Sephardi museum), the Moorish model El Cristo de la Luz, the Alcázar and the Gothic cathedral, in addition to the San Martín bridge, and the outdated partitions and gates. The journey again to Madrid by automobile takes about an hour on the A42.


Seville

Jerez de la Frontera

A tasting at Bodegas Lustau, Jerez de la Frontera

With Sherry nation solely about an hour from Seville by practice, a go to to Jerez de la Frontera is to not be missed. A historic metropolis in its personal proper, Jerez is in fact greatest generally known as the centre of the Sherry-producing area (DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry). For wine lovers, a tour of 1 (or extra) of the town’s distinguished bodegas would be the spotlight of any go to. Even for the uninitiated it’s an interesting expertise, not just for the wines and the complexities of their manufacturing, but additionally for the structure and ambiance of the bodegas themselves.

Arrive early sufficient to take pleasure in a breakfast of churros and chocolate at any of the bars outdoors the central market (after ordering your drinks, choose up your churros from the stall within the centre of the sq. and take them again to your desk). A brief stroll from the market will take you to Bodegas Lustau, which provides a superb bodega tour and tasting starting at 10am (that is the place these churros might be your good friend; Tuesday-Friday, additionally at 3pm, €20) – after this you may spend a while visiting the town centre. For sightseeing, the Moorish Alcázar palace, the cathedral and the municipal archaeological museum are prime of the checklist, however simply wandering the streets is like strolling in a dwelling museum.

Cease in at Tabanco El Pasaje to pattern Sherry by Bodegas Maestro Sierra from the barrel and, when you’re in luck, occur upon an off-the-cuff flamenco efficiency. From there, a fast lunch at buzzy Tabanco Las Banderillas (see Fb) for glorious conventional tapas earlier than a 4pm tasting together with beautiful VOS and VORS Sherries at Bodegas Tradición and a viewing of its personal artwork museum as a bonus – €50 per particular person.

For a extra relaxed afternoon, go for a leisurely lunch at Israel Ramos’ one-star Michelin Mantúa and ‘go to’ a number of bodegas with its glorious Sherry pairing menu.

Ronda

The 18th-century ‘new bridge’, Ronda. Credit score: Evgeni Dinev Images / Getty Photographs

About 130km southeast of Seville, the impossibly charming city of Ronda, with a inhabitants of simply 35,000, punches nicely above its weight on the subject of issues to see and do. Its specific declare to fame is the magnificent El Tajo gorge carved out by the Guadalevín river, with the Fifteenth-century ‘new city’ (based when the Christians reconquered the town in 1485) on the north facet, and the Moorish ‘outdated city’ on the south, related by the spectacular span of the 18th- century Puente Nuevo ‘new bridge’. From there, or from the close by Alameda park, the fantastic views of the gorge and the encircling countryside are one of many joys of coming right here.

When you favor to not drive, there are common every day buses to Ronda from Prado de San Sebastián in Seville. A vineyard go to upon arrival is a good way to start out off your day. Simply outdoors the town you will discover a number of the most enjoyable wineries within the area, all simply reached by taxi. Descalzos Viejos, Bodega F Schatz and La Melonera produce award-winning natural single-estate wines with visits out there upon request.

Again in Ronda, splash out on chef Benito Gómez’s two-star Michelin restaurant Bardal or strive his extra informal Tragatá, each a stone’s throw from the 18th-century bullring.

After lunch, there are nice walks on both facet of the gorge and across the outdated city, together with all the way down to the outdated mills beneath the Puente Nuevo, or exploring the gorgeous Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, containing the church of Santa María La Mayor and on all the way down to the Moorish gate of Almocábar. Throughout the bridge, the Maestranza bullring is one other must-visit – it’s the oldest of its variety in Spain and was a lot cherished by the likes of Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles. Lastly, if time permits, head again to the outdated city to the quirky Casa Palacio Museo Lara, containing the personal assortment of founder Juan Antonio Lara Jurado.


Málaga

Bodega La Capuchina – Antequera

The ‘reclining face mountain’ of Peña de los Enamorados from Antequera. Credit score: Estellez / Getty Photographs

An hour north of Málaga is considered one of Andalucía’s historic hidden gems. Antequera, the official centre of the area, remains to be not likely well-known, which makes for a calming and comparatively tourist-free day trip. Begin the day with a late-morning (10.30am) pre-arranged go to to Bodega La Capuchina (@bodegalacapuchina). As you go the turn-off to Antequera on the A-45 from Málaga, look out for the well-known ‘reclining face’ mountain of Peña de los Enamorados on the fitting. Proceed for 15km to take the MA- 708/6415, and simply earlier than you attain Alameda take the second street off the roundabout (in the direction of Mollina) – 1.4km down the street flip left down an unmarked dusty street to achieve the vineyard’s spectacular sprawling property, as soon as residence to a monastery run by friars of the Capuchin order.

After a tour of the grounds and a tasting (about three hours together with charcuterie and cheese, €35), a brief drive south (head in the direction of Mollina, and from there onto the A-92) will take you to Antequera. The city is bodily dominated by the imposing Alcazaba (fortress), constructed by the Moors within the 14th century and conquered by the Christians in 1410. It’s a little bit of a climb to achieve the highest, however nicely definitely worth the effort for each the ruins and the views. Additionally price exploring are a number of the metropolis’s church buildings and convents, that are among the many greatest endowed in Spain, and the Museo de la Ciudad municipal museum, housed in a baroque palace, which has a wealth of creative and historic treasures.

For lunch you may style the historical past of Andalucía at Arte de Cozina, the place chef Charo Carmona has spent a number of years reviving forgotten dishes and recipes. She showcases them in her charming city-centre restaurant, positioned in a superbly restored Seventeenth-century manor home, which additionally provides 9 well-priced rooms. For a lighter snack you may take pleasure in tapas subsequent door at Charo’s Arte de Tapas.

If time permits, cease in to see the bronze-age burial mounds (dolmens) on the street out of city, or when you fancy a hike, work off the excesses of the day within the alien panorama of El Torcal, simply south of Antequera, with its surreal limestone formations.

Nerja – Bodegas Bentomiz

Bodegas Bentomiz, Sayalonga

An hour east of Málaga (on the A-7) is the gorgeous coastal city of Nerja. Begin the day early, arriving in Nerja by 9am, and start by strolling the magnificent Balcón de Europa, a promenade constructed on the sting of a cliff on the location of a former Moorish watchtower, the place you may take within the stunning views of the beautiful Mediterranean shoreline on both facet. Wander by means of the outdated quarter, with its slim alleyways, whitewashed homes, little squares and church buildings, maybe stopping at a restaurant́ for a fast breakfast. This a part of Nerja retains its outdated world allure, and is a refreshing change from the overdeveloped Costa del Sol.

Make time to go to the breathtaking Nerja caves simply to the northeast of city earlier than heading again in the direction of Málaga and exploring the Axarquía area additional inland, taking the A-7206 up previous Sayalonga to a different spectacular website – Bodegas Bentomiz, which rises atop the white mountain village as you strategy. Relying on the time spent in Nerja and the caves, you may go for a vineyard go to and tasting (beginning at 12.30pm, €15, non-obligatory €7 tasting platter) or style the award-winning wines over a leisurely lunch at its in-house market-sourced restaurant (2pm, three-course menu €38 plus €10.50 wine pairing, five-course menu €51 plus €17). Ideally it would be best to do each, however both method winemaker Clara Verheij and her husband, chef André Each, will make this an unforgettable expertise.

Each Antequera and Nerja will be reached by public transport from Málaga, although if you wish to embody a vineyard go to (advisable!) then hiring a automobile or reserving a non-public guided tour are higher choices. For a personalised guided expertise to those areas (and others), get in contact with Málaga native and tour information Victor Garrido (welovemalaga.com).


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