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| Hello, that is one among our (virtually) day by day tastings. Santé! |
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June 5, 2022
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Supersonic Cognacs, or one other verticale, Half Deux
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The primary a part of this session, final Sunday, had been completely wonderful, with all older ones marked 90+. We had stopped the insanity in 1970, time to sort out older vintages. In principle, very previous ones may need grow to be ‘rather less nice’ in my e book, except that they had been transferred to dames-jeannes/demijohns earlier than any extreme oak and even oxidation would have performed any hurt to them. Now, we’re solely speaking organoleptics right here, not poetry, philosophy and even Historical past (Serge! You Philistine!) So after 1970 there’s … (image, journal advert for Camus, ‘within the method of Picasso’, 1946)
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Prunier 53 yo 1967/2021 (51.9%, WineForYou for The Purist, Grande Champagne, 54 bottles) 
Unbelievable power for such an previous cognac. We have already stumbled upon fairly just a few glories on this Belgian collection. Color: full gold. Nostril: begins a bit empyreumatic, with notes of heat pinewood (or say a forest in coastal Spain) in addition to touches of mushrooms, goes on with a bit sugarcane juice, actually, and marmalade, with even a drop of amontillado. And maybe a bit PX? With water: will get straighter, that’s to say extra on an previous cognac, with raisins, preserved peaches and apricots, prunes and honey. Mouth (neat): pretty bitterness, with plenty of liquorice wooden, rosehip tea, robust black tea, tobacco… Bits of tobacco popping out of your untipped Gauloise. I am positive the distillers used to smoke that again in 1967, whereas distilling… Different occasions for positive however I do additionally bear in mind some Scottish Distillery (no, no identify) the place you’d spot quite many cigarette butts on the ground of the stillhouse, solely two or three a long time in the past. With water: this time it stays quite bitter, once more in an effective way, piney, liquoricy, with certainly all of the bitterness that is to be present in an previous amontillado, which would come with previous walnuts. Virtually brandy de Jerez, with out all of the added sweetness. End: very lengthy, nonetheless bitter and tobacco-y. Feedback: this one’s a bit more difficult, maybe, actually tighter and extra rustic, however I am keen on this model too, you simply will not down an entire bottle on the spot.
SGP:371 – 89 factors. |
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Vallein Tercinier 60 yo ‘Rencontre 62’ (42.6%, OB chosen for Jack Tar & Lux Coin, single dame jeanne, 100 bottles, 2022) 
It’s stated that the ultimate house owners did resolve so as to add just a few centilitres of cognac 1762 to this demijohn, as that they had sourced a bottle of Gautier from that classic fairly some years earlier. I do know, loopy… Color: gentle amber. Nostril: home model! Tropical jams, ripe mangos, manuka honey, very ripe williams pears, bergamots, blueberries, then terrifyingly large notes of mirabelle jam, plus a tiny slice of cep (mushroom). Unbelievable nostril, with an unbelievable freshness. Mouth: it was inconceivable that the palate could be as recent, however it’s nonetheless splendidly fruity at first, tropical certainly, honeyed, solely then extra on oak spices, tobacco, cloves, cinnamon, black tea… Since this was a demijohn, I’d be involved in studying when this child was transferred from oak to glass. End: lengthy, with menthol and camphor popping out, and tangerines dancing within the aftertaste, to the sound of Elvis Presley (1962)… And Josef Haydn! (1762). Feedback: unbelievable expertise and as virtually all the time at Vallein Tercinier, what a nostril!
SGP:651 – 91 factors. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Lot 57’ (41.7%, Swell de Spirits, Discipline Journey #1, Grande Champagne, 70 bottles)
It’s to be remembered that individuals in Cognac would usually disgorge casks solely partially, and so launch a number of subsequent smaller bottlings from the identical barrel, each time there’s demand. An exquisite salamander on this label, let’s keep in mind that the salamander was the symbol of king of France François 1er (1494-1547). Color: deep gold. Nostril: this time issues are kicked off with some not-too-ripe bananas (which is simply as nicely) and beeswax. We might then discover kumquats and bergamots (particularly bergamot sweets from Nancy, France) in addition to honey drops and quince paste and jelly. Pretty nostril, quite tight and centered, with one thing that may remind me of previous Balvenie. Actually! Mouth: pretty mentholy and tobacco-y oak, strolling on its toes. That will quite convey many natural teas and gentle spices, mint tea certainly, thyme and linden, cinnamon rolls with raisins (only a sin), as soon as once more a wee feeling of previous amontillado (pretty oxidation), and simply extra natural teas. Forgot to say liquorice, nevertheless it’s true that there is virtually all the time a bit liquorice in these previous cognacs. End: medium, with the tobacco being again within the entrance. Feedback: this quite fantastic second when fruits and wooden are tied.
SGP:461 – 90 factors. |
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Jean Fillioux 1955+1960/2022 (45.5%, Wu Dram Clan & Kirsch Import, Grande Champagne, 354 bottles)
Jean Fillioux personal the 24-ha Domaine and Château de La Pouyade, however I am not completely positive they solely mature and bottle their very own manufacturing. That is my fault, it might be simple to only ask (which might be one other stroke of genius, S.!) Color: deep gold. Nostril: some are simply evident. Mirabelle pie, acacia honey, dandelions, mango jam, golden sultanas, quinces, drop of white Bourgogne, then tiny drops of natural liqueurs, chartreuse et all, beeswax… Certainly, there’s one thing completely apparent to this one, even probably the most diligent taster will not must rack his/her mind. Awesomely simple. Mouth: no fruit vs. oak combating in any respect this time, as soon as once more that is simple, hassle-free, apparent, with an ideal three-step growth, first teas, then spices, then fruits, particularly dried ones, and walnuts. It may additionally be a tad sweeter than others, with punchy honeys, akin to chestnut. End: that is the place herbs would chime in, parsley, mint, pine needles… Jams and fruitcakes within the aftertaste. That delicacy that we name ‘florentins’ (chocolate topped with bits of candied fruits). Feedback: one other wonderful previous cognac. What was notably spectacular is that it began a tiny wee tad woody on the palate after which by no means stopped changing into fruitier, while the other’s normally occurring with very previous spirits. I imply, usually.
SGP:551 – 91 factors. |
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Mauxion ‘Lot 56’ (45%, OB, Petite Champagne, Belgian import, +/-2022)
Wooden-fired distillation and a really previous household home that is into cognac since 1743. They’re situated in Houlette within the Charente, not very removed from town of Cognac. Color: gold. Nostril: a fair simpler one, beginning with raisin rolls and custard, getting then fractally advanced, with myriads of assorted cakey and yellow-fruit aromas, Turkish delights, rose petals, Monbazillac, dried litchis and jujubes… It’s all extraordinarily gentle and delicate; we might have stated ‘female’ within the previous days. The standard preserved peaches and apricots chiming in after a minute or two. Mouth: fruity, virtually tart, on citrus jams and syrups. That is coming surprising provided that this was harvested virtually 70 years in the past. I bear in mind an previous Grand-Marnier ‘Cuvée du Centenaire’ now… Tangerines, oriental pastries, orange blossom water, elderberry eau-de-vie… One other one which’s completely wonderful, and much more so when mint and liquorice are kicking in with tastefulness and restraint. End: medium, extremely recent. Mangos, bananas and williams pears. A shocking mossy earthiness within the aftertaste, yet one more dimension (and 1 extra level, there). Feedback: I am remembering an previous Lochside 1966 at this level. A number of, in fact.
SGP:641 – 92 factors. |
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Fins Bois 1954 ‘Lot N°5 et 14’ (43.3%, Jean Grosperrin, 872 litres)
Two casks blended collectively, however not too positive when this was bottled, what the label tells us is that the home Grosperrin might purchase these two casks in 1999. Color: gold. Nostril: in all probability the freshest, and likewise the grassiest of all of them. Gooseberries, apple peel, white currants, chamomile, even grapefruits, a faint vinosity (chardonnay), rubbed herbs (lovage, parsley, coriander), chalk… There’s even a smoky contact, thoughts you, which might additional ring my Highland-Park bell. Effectively, this one too is simply fantastic. Mouth: beautiful fruity, citrusy tightness. Gooseberries and grapefruits, fairly unusual in such an previous cognac I’d say. It will then grow to be a bit grapey, in a beautiful method, nervous, grassy peely, extraordinarily recent, whereas a beautiful liquorice would additionally seem this time once more. It is even changing into a tad bitter, which is simply as fantastic. A limey ’54 cognac? End: splendidly tight, lemony, with no thickness and, what’s extra, virtually no apparent oak. Feedback: one other one which’s quite extraordinary. I am undecided we might have discovered its previous age. Thoughts you, 1954, that was 67 years in the past. Excessive-class fins bois for positive.
SGP:551 – 91 factors. |
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Time to attempt some older bottles…
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Camus ‘Hors d’Âge Réserve Additional-Vieille’ (OB, Japan, Sixties)
In keeping with a really educated supply, it is a classic 1914, saved in wooden for 45 years, then transferred to demijohns, that is then been bottled in two steps, within the Sixties and within the Nineteen Seventies, whereas this might be the Sixties version (or it might have displayed the ABV anyway, no?) It’s a Japanese bottling that is simply reached again France through Australia (do not inform our pricey Inexperienced occasion ‘Les Verts’, thanks). Color: deep gold. Nostril: pretty previous model, a lot much less on fruits, far more on meats and oils. Some OBE ought to have occurred too. Marrow, hen soup, mocha, engine oil, roasted pecans, smoked ham, uncooked chocolate, previous cigars, pinewood smoke, previous toolbox, previous cash, even previous banknotes… That is one other world and one other time, a ‘blast from the previous’, as they are saying. It it is nicely a 1914, it was harvested roughly two months after the outbreak of World Battle I (July 28, 1914). Very shifting… Mouth: that is extremely recent, and sweeter than the ‘new previous’ ones. Granted, they might have sauced it up a wee bit again within the days, however this avalanche of raisins and syrups is simply spectacular. Arrack, mead, caramel sauce, fig jam, very previous Sauternes, prune juice, praline and nougat, very previous Port… End: not even shortish, with the candy bouillons and meads again in full type. Some meaty greasiness and a few gentian within the aftertaste. Gentian, at that! Feedback: completely nice and organoleptically excellent – I imply, with out taking any tales or information under consideration; nicely, as little as we might. Many thanks Deni.
SGP:641 – 93 factors. |
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That is seven. Did not we are saying ‘eight’? No, we didn’t, however certainly we have had eight of them final time…
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Chivas Brothers 60 yo ‘Outdated Liqueur Cognac’ (24.7 u.p., OB, Nineteen Forties) 
Most actually pre-sale to Seagram (1949). 24.7 beneath proof interprets into 75.3 UK proof, which is 43% A.B.V. The corporate Chivas Brothers was based in Aberdeen in 1858, after having been named Stewart & Chivas from 1841 on. So far as I do know, there had been a grocery retailer earlier than, settled in 1801 certainly (as extensively marketed, together with on this previous cognac) however the first Chivas, James, solely joined in 1838, whereas John Chivas joined his trouble in 1857 to later type the brand new firm Chivas Brothers. This Cognac could possibly be even a bit older, so far as vintages go, than the very first Chivas Regal, which was a 25 years previous launched in 1909. It was absolutely from nineteenth century harvests and presumably from pre-phylloxeric vines. The label is bearing the Scottish royal coat of arms and the Stuart kings’ motto, ‘Nemo Me Impune Lacessit’ (Nobody provokes me with impunity) in addition to the point out ‘by appointment to his majesty the king’. All that on a French product, phew, all proper, let’s do that previous surprise… |
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Color: amber. Nostril: however no! Why is it this a lot alive? We have talked about brandy de Jerez earlier than and certainly, some points are paying homage to brandy de Jerez, particularly these notes of espresso and chocolate liqueurs, however there’s additionally some wonderful earthy, mushroomy, meady notes, completely terrific. It’s virtually like some extraordinarily previous white wine that may have been fortified sooner or later to maintain it recent for posterity (concepts concepts, no?) Mouth: what’s this sorcery? Granted, the Camus was a tad more energizing and cleaner, and this one is a notch syrupy (it might have been a bit cloying when it was bottled, again within the Nineteen Forties) nevertheless it’s nonetheless firing on all six cylinders. Triple-sec, raisins, PX, yellow chartreuse, extra candy mead…. Good, it truly is a bit ‘liqueury’ on the palate, nevertheless it’s nonetheless impressively filled with stamina. End: lengthy, candy, liqueury. This time we’re completely on brandy de Jerez. Feedback: very spectacular certainly, even when you do really feel {that a} half as performed ‘within the lab’. I’d have liked to let or not it’s analysed by a pleasant lab, however that may be a.) silly, and b.) we drank all of it anyway.
SGP:730 – 87 factors.
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(Thanks Deni, thanks Ivo, thanks Nicolas, thanks everybody)
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