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| Hello, that is one among our (virtually) each day tastings. Santé! |
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June 12, 2022
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Very sadly, Armagnac’s vineyards have been hit by heavy storms and quite a lot of grail just a few days in the past, with some vines virtually destroyed, particularly in some components of the Gers and the Landes. Round 5,000 hectares have been closely struck, with hailstones the sizes of golf balls!
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These notes are for the Armagnacaises and Armagnacais, their immense braveness and their unimaginable resilience. There is a heavy value to pay while you can’t, by legislation, supply your uncooked substances from one other area or from simply anyplace else in the entire goddam world. See what I imply? ({photograph} armagnacnews.com)
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Domaine Clotte de Manon 14 yo 2007/2021 (46.5%, Darroze, Assortment Distinctive, Bas-Armagnac) 
Darroze are bringing many small estates to the market, working as good ‘negociants-éleveurs’. I consider I’ve by no means tried Clotte de Manon, having stated that, whereas Darroze’s web site is mute about them. Color: deep gold. Nostril: awesomely rustic, with touches of balsamico and polish at first (all good), then a little bit toasted oak, chocolate and black tea, mint tea, then prunes and plenty of orangey issues, marmalades, some form of chutney, pickled kumquats, then huge black very dry raisins (Corinthians)… Mouth: identical beautiful rusticity, identical balsamic vinegar and polish at first, marmalade, dry raisins, ‘outdated’ prunes, armagnac (I do know, appears like a tautological description however I do know what I am making an attempt to say), outdated rancio and really outdated candy Sauternes – or else – that went dry and toasted oak plus bitter chocolate. End: lengthy, extra on sturdy black tea and heavy-fermented tobacco. Feedback: you are simply there with this rural, virtually bucolic younger one. This begins effectively.
SGP:461 – 86 factors. |
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Lous Pibous 2002 (57.4%, L’Encantada, For the USA, tenth Anniversary, Bas-armagnac, +/-2021)
No literature wanted right here. Comes with a unique label than the standard orange one which all the time makes me consider Johan Cruyff and Johnny Rep. Color: amber. Nostril: punchy drop, nonetheless younger, so nonetheless with its consubstantial varnish, a contact of Bulldog sauce, candy gravy, molasses and heavier honeys, quince paste, honey-glazed ham… With water: candy bread (sure) and lighter fruit cake, with apricots, citrus and pears. First look of quinces on this one. Mouth (neat): fights you proper from the beginning, with a little bit spicy oak and concentrated miso, in addition to slightly quite a lot of pepper. Just a little unbalanced, however we all know water will put issues proper. That is one of many benefits of whisky, it stands very excessive strengths higher than ‘brandies’ do, in my humble opinion. With water: not that simple to deal with, even with probably the most technologically-advanced pipette. Proper, proper. Spicy oranges, a little bit ginger, that miso, bitter natural teas… End: lengthy, fairly resinous at this level. Marmalade and low within the aftertaste. Feedback: so, the proceedings. You purchase a bottle, you spoil a great half making an attempt to give you the very best proportions with water and your pipette, you don’t neglect to jot down it down as soon as you’ve got discovered it, and it’s possible you’ll now benefit from the different half of your bottle. Naturally, you can as effectively purchase a number of bottles. Anyway, excellent, as anticipated.
SGP:561 – 85 factors. |
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Château de Laubade 1985/2020 ‘Brut de Fût’ (48.4%, OB, Bas-armagnac, bonbonne #89061) 
Boy does this little collection by Laubade rock! They’re cask energy, however they’re moderately cask energy. That is ex-demijohn, so it was already out of the wooden when it was bottled, most actually for good causes. Think about they might have finished this at Stromness, Malt Mill or Outdated Clynelish! Color: reddish amber. Nostril: certainly, you do really feel some spicy cellulose at first, however varied honeys and jams are extraordinarily fast to reach, particularly heather and apricots. Additionally this sense of opening an outdated soft-pack of untipped Camels, or Craven A. Within the background, marrow bouillon and even a little bit garlic butter. Mouth: slightly dry, on floor espresso and cocoa powder at first, then tobacco, chen-pi and the blackest black tea. Peppered brownies, ought to anybody ever bake that. Inadvertently, maybe? End: slightly lengthy however actually slightly dry. Outdated oak within the aftertaste. Feedback: appears like an old-school Ténarèze, I’d humbly add. Certainly, I’ve seen this was not a Ténarèze. Completely glorious, however I believe I favored all the opposite Bruts de Fût I might already attempt both slightly, or a lot better.
SGP:461 – 83 factors. |
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Dupeyron 1967 (40%, OB, armagnac, +/-2020)
1967? Let’s have a look at if this will probably be an armagnac of affection. Approx. 150€ for an armagnac that was distilled whereas Jimi Hendrix was composing The Wind Cries Mary, how does that sound? Oh and by no means underestimate these classic armagnacs which can be primarily bought as birthday presents, we have already tried some wonderful ones. Color: gold. Nostril: old skool certainly, that’s to say slightly dry, on tobacco and low certainly, tea as effectively, however on this very case I am additionally discovering patchouli and bidis (1967 certainly). Certainly, certainly. Reasonably stewed apples and pears on the fruit part, plus fermenting plums, or plum wine, Korean model. Mouth: sure, it is good, actually extra vinous than the others (outdated pinot noir, outdated barrel), however with additionally extra Seville oranges, marmalade, contemporary walnuts, oloroso-like notes, a small mustiness… End: not very lengthy however balanced, smooth, vinous, with prunes. Prunes in armagnac (extra tautological descriptions, I am afraid). Feedback: not a lot oomph right here however frankly, it is a good outdated winey drop, a method that is changing into actually out of style nowadays.
SGP:551 – 84 factors. |
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Baron de Lustrac 40 yo (49.9%, OB, for Wine4You, Bas-armagnac, 4000 bottles, +/-2021) 
This one was sourced from Domaine de Mandillet within the Gers, simply south-east of Eauze. Age-stated armagnacs stay fairly unusual to nowadays. I consider the worth was pornographically low when this child got here out, final yr. I believe it was final yr. Color: bronze amber. Nostril: I am discovering quite a lot of chestnuts, glazed, puréed, roasted, as liqueur… Additionally honeydew, fir, additionally pipe tobacco, bouillons, our beloved marrow, onion soup, even some malt extracts, Marmite, brown sauce… I’d say you can pour this over some very-deluxe burgers. Why not name that an Arma-Mac? (that is not diving to new lows, S., that is speleology). Mouth: sure. Old style once more, meaty, tobacco-y, earthy, very bouillony and even salty, with slightly quite a lot of outdated wooden, outdated wines, cured hams, peppers, additionally calvados, cider, liquorice wooden, celeriac… And even gentian. End: lengthy. Outdated pu-her tea, chewing cigars, snuff, salty bouillons and broths… Feedback: beloved the earthiness on this one. The old-woodiness can also be an apparent asset right here. Properly for those who hate outdated oak, that is is probably not for you – however that is extra for us then. Oh effectively, I simply love this quasi-antique.
SGP:562 – 90 factors. |
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A final one, since we hadn’t deliberate to do armagnac in the present day…
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Domaine de Baraillon 1944/2021 (43%, OB, Bas-armagnac)
Think about, harvest 1944! To present you an concept, town of Auch, capital of the Gers, was liberated only one month earlier, on August 19, 1944. So that is actually historic and we hope Ukraine will quickly comply with the identical path, upon the appropriate of self-determination. Identical with strictly all the opposite international locations at present at battle with any invaders, after all. We consider there are not any good and no proper invaders. Color: deep amber. Nostril: I do not fairly know what to say. Pure syrups (agave, barley, sugarcane), candy wines from the south of France (Monbazillac and brothers), or Italy (vinsanto, Pantelleria…), earths and mints, humidor, sweeter reductions… Certainly, I do not fairly know what to say. Mouth: so shifting. It is most likely not a shining star, I imply, organoleptically talking, however there are flavours in there that we might effectively have forgotten about. Akin to actually forgotten root greens. I imply, everybody’s speaking about these forgotten greens nowadays, even the best cooks, which doesn’t make any sense. Both they’re forgotten, or they don’t seem to be. Salty soups, jams, chutneys, thick beers, broths, tobaccos… Plus some form of salted toffee. Really a journey by means of time. End: medium, merely occurring with the identical shifting flavours of yesteryears, plus the sounds of cannons and firing squads. To a free Ukraine (and all different international locations). Feedback: for those who consider spirits and politics do not ging collectively, be my visitor, simply go to a pub or a bistro and take heed to the folks there. Spirits have all the time been eminently political.
SGP:452 – (unapplicable) factors. |
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(Gracias Boris and different associates)
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