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| Hello, that is considered one of our (nearly) every day tastings. Santé! |
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April 17, 2022
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Relatively numerous Calvados du Pays d’Auge for Easter
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Or ‘protecting my guarantees’. A session lengthy overdue! Let’s examine what we’ve, however let me first make a press release: I am extra an knowledgeable in twelfth Century Turkmen embroidery than in calvados or every other type of apple/cider brandy. Now what ought to assist us is that we’ll primarily have Calvados by one single home, the superb Christian Drouin, which ought to assist us construct some coherent verticale. We’ll let only a few different homes chime in. (pictire, apples at Christian Drouin’s)
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Christian Drouin ‘VSOP’ (40%, OB, calvados du Pays d’Auge, +/-2021) 
100% apples (so, no pears) and round 10 years in numerous woods, new, refill, wine… Color: gentle gold. Nostril: rounded and actually quite a bit on baked apples coated with muscovado and honey. Contemporary apples and simply cider too. Tiny contact of horseradish. Mouth: a lot drier on the palate, spicier; barely biting, definitely rustic and ‘gritty’, with some wooden, cinnamon, salty cider… End: medium, actually drier and even saltier. The saltiness may be very stunning. Leafy aftertaste. Feedback: we’re very removed from any sort of post-prandial digestif that I have been anticipating. The closest ‘different aged spirit’ I’d consider can be tequila.
SGP:371 – round 79 factors. |
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Christian Drouin ‘Hors d’Âge’ (42%, OB, calvados du Pays d’Auge, +/-2021) 
This one ought to relatively be round 18. Color: full gold. Nostril: for my part it’s the predominant distinction with say malt or cognac or rum, in these calvados the uncooked materials, so apples and generally pears, is extraordinarily dominant. Having stated that this has a relatively extraordinary improvement on salty and buttered walnut cake, with tiny touches of Jerez vinegar and mustard. You’ll nearly imagine that is an previous vin jaune, right here and there. Mouth: as soon as once more that is very dry, acrid, salty and peppery, with an oilier mouthfeel and the sensation of crunching leaves. The oak is relatively assertive right here. End: lengthy and in two steps. First slightly on honeyed apple compote, then on some sort of mustardy and lemony verjuice sauce. Feedback: nonetheless slightly robust, however some components of the nostril have been already great. Says this calvados non-expert…
SGP:471 – round 82 factors. |
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Christian Drouin ‘Mars Angels’ (43%, OB, Experimental, eau-de-vie de cidre, +/-2021)
This isn’t legally calvados – and it would not declare to calvadosness – because it was completed for 8 months in ex-Mars Komagate wooden. It’s globally 13. Now, Komagate should not have shattered this child’s world… Color: gold. Nostril: again on apples and cider, with maybe, certainly, extra chalk and dough. Touches of fennel and pink grapefruits within the far distance. Mouth: identical feeling of gritty and leafy dryness another time, this time with slightly chalk and bread dough but once more. Just a little grapefruit too. End: relatively lengthy, this time with some liquorice on high of the fennel and aniseed. Feedback: I imagine the H d’A had a nicer nostril, however this palate was slightly wider and extra fragrant. Good liquorice.
SGP:461 – round 82 factors. |
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Christian Drouin 17 yo ‘Hine Angels’ (43%, OB, Experimental, eau-de-vie de cidre, 1296 bottles, +/-2021) 
You’ll have guessed this was completed in some ex-cognac Hine wooden. Color: full gold. Nostril: maintain on, that is one other world. Acetone, varnish, tiny previous apples, white peaches, glue, compost, hoisin sauce… I am merely discovering this superior. Mouth: there, sure, in fact. Very tight, with numerous inexperienced liquorice, extra glue, uncooked apple spirit (I am considering of Rochelt’s Gravenstein, probably quickly on WF)… And previous vin jaune this time once more! End: lengthy, varnishy at first, then extra on lemons and, nicely, glue. Stuff that sticks (we’re amazed, S.). Feedback: altering territory. Nice tight and nervous drop.
SGP:472 – round 86 factors. |
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Petit Chien Brun 14 yo (53.5%, Little Brown Canine Spirits, calvados du Pays d’Auge, Mars cask, +/-2021) 
One other experiment in an ex-Mars cask – except that is relatively deep-fried Mars bars, since this distinguished bottler’s positioned in Aberdeen (buddy no shoot!) Color: gold. Nostril: the upper voltage works, this goes slightly extra in the direction of doughy, fermentary, even bready notes, briefly extra in the direction of malt and as a consequence, it’s much less on cider. With water: it might sit proper between the OB ‘Mars’ and the OB ‘Hine’. Good varnishy notes. Mouth (neat): good arrival, slightly easy however that is a part of the charms right here, slightly extra on caraway-y notes. With water: touches of lime, that is pretty. Asparagus and lime. End: relatively lengthy. This time with touches of gin. Good liquorice. Feedback: recent, very pleasing, a wee step above the ex-Mars OB in my guide.
SGP:461 – round 84 factors. |
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Calvados 10 yo ‘Additional Previous’ (42%, 30&40, +/-2021)
A mix involving three homes and three terroirs, plus two modes of distilling (batch and column). Youngest drop 10, oldest 27. Value particularly reasonable (51€). Color: full gold. Nostril: again to custom, walnuts, apple peel, gentle mustard, liquorice, slightly wooden smoke, tobacco, barbecue sauce (Tennessee model)… Mouth: a sweeter contact (it was about time) and a few candy beers and ciders. It gained roundness and easiness, which might be higher for whisky individuals (hey, watch your again S.!) End: medium, barely honeyed. Honeyed apple pie. Feedback: a better one and an excellent one. No quibbles. Oh by the way in which, was there some pears?
SGP:551 – round 84 factors. |
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Christian Drouin 2017 ‘Hampden’ (48%, Rumology.be, calvados du Pays d’Auge, #F50Bt3, 132 bottles) 
Good one, a Hampden end. Acetone to the ceiling and olives within the eyes. Or the opposite approach ‘spherical. Solely the Belgians… Color: gold. Nostril: no! I imply, sure, gentian! Typically unlikely mixtures simply do wonders. Calva + Hampden = gentian, that is some equation. Mouth: the calva having the higher hand, however boy do we all know Hamden is a fighter. Salty lemon and apple juice plus pinewood smoke and bitter almonds. Fairly curiously, no olives. End: lengthy, saltier, and guess what, with some small shrivelled black olives. Feedback: spirit for a real meta-universe (not that advertising bullshit for misplaced manufacturers determined for ‘innovation’!)
SGP: 563- round 88 factors. |
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Garnier 18 yo (55.9%, Swell de Spirits, Calvados, Wonders of The World, 158 bottles, 2021)
From a moist cellar. Color: white wine. Nostril: lighter on oak, nearer to the distillate. We do detect just a few rubbery tones, that are frequent in lots of a high-class eau-de-vie (we’re not speaking new Pirellis, proper), then only a brutal, focussed, high-precision appleness. With water: much more recent rubber. New rubber bands, artichokes, Cynar… Mouth (neat): varnish, rubber, glue, bitter almonds, cider vinegar, uncooked kirschwasser, fino… What’s to not like? With water: just a few bitter tones now, cider vinegar, stuff from the ocean (whelks), manzanilla, inexperienced walnuts… End: lengthy, with just a few burnt tones. Feedback: not too positive this spirit may be very orthodox. Probably stuff for rustic grandpas… who’ll go away as much as 95 years.
SGP:562 – round 85 factors. |
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Christian Drouin 2001 (42%, OB, calvados du Pays d’Auge, +/-2021)
This ‘millésimé’ was double-matured, ex-calvados + ex-sherry. Color: deep gold. Nostril: some fallen apples and certainly walnuts and bits of leather-based, plus some sort of mentholated mustard. It’s not bombastically sherried, for positive. Very pretty sourness. Oh, and notes of tart amontillado. It appears that evidently in spite of everything, the sherry amplified the calvados relatively than distort/flavoured it. Mouth: large drop, very bitter, bitter, nearly acidic, on tons of bitter apples, the greenest walnuts, and this salty lime juice. Sends shivers down your backbone, as they are saying. End: lengthy and much more on inexperienced walnuts and salted lemons. Bitter almonds within the aftertaste. Feedback: the 42% really feel greater than, nicely, 42%. The artwork of bitterness. Implausible nostril.
SGP:372 – round 85 factors. |
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Christian Drouin 2000 (42%, OB, calvados du Pays d’Auge, +/-2021)
This time it’s ex-calvados + ex-Tokaji, so candy wine. Color: full gold. Nostril: the sweetness comes via, making this calvados really feel fruitier and simpler. Raisins and recent mint, plus peach and apricot jams. Mouth: certainly this one can be sweeter and way more on raisins, whereas the peppery spices stay there within the background. Cinnamon mints. End: lengthy and sweeter certainly. Raisin rolls and peppery cinnamon. Feedback: a less complicated model after the very tight 2001.
SGP:551 – round 83 factors. |
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Let’s soar to the previous, for those who please…
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Christian Drouin 1990 (42%, OB, calvados du Pays d’Auge, +/-2021)
Ex-calvados + ex-cognac this time. This could possibly be a profitable combo. Color: deep gold. Nostril: some buddies say that calvados wants extra time than different aged spirits. I am unsure they’re completely unsuitable, since I am discovering this little thirty extra complicated than the others, with much less of that gritty appleness, extra honeys, extra dried fruits, extra quince (hurray) and extra earth. Notes of cigar field arising, walnuts, fig chutney… All is nicely right here and now. Mouth: the tightness of calvados stays, the peelings, the grass, the dry cider… However we’re additionally discovering an enhanced fruitiness, with dried goji berries and jujubes. End: lengthy, grassy, peppery, with as soon as once more a fruitier signature. Feedback: some individuals drink calvados with greasy meals as a result of the spirit would ‘dissolve all fat’. We’ll strive that on Massive Macs. Superb calvados.
SGP:561 – round 86 factors. |
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Christian Drouin 1987 (42%, OB, calvados du Pays d’Auge, +/-2021)
Had been Speaking Heads nonetheless collectively in 1987? This child’s been completed in sherry for one yr. Whether or not these issues are actually essential, we do not know (not Speaking Heads, finishings!) Color: amber. Nostril: there, there, there, beeswax, cider, cigars, manzanilla, walnuts, vin jaune, wasabi… All issues we actually like. Mouth: we’re altering gear, there’s some caramel, walnut cake, enormous notes of amontillado, candy mustard, salt and even miso, tobacco, pepper… End: lengthy, completely dry, primarily on walnuts and marmalade. Feedback: calvados actually appears to take its time.
SGP:462 – round 87 factors. |
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Christian Drouin 1980 (42%, OB, calvados du Pays d’Auge, +/-2021)
I do not suppose this one was completed in ‘one other wooden’. Color: deep amber. Nostril: sauces and tobaccos. This verticale turns into fascinating. Umami, soy sauce, pipe tobacco and cigars, additionally tropical fruits beginning to come out, mango chutney, slightly new teak and eucalyptus woods, earthy touches (celeriac), some sort of mentholated mustard… Mouth: ah sure, definitely. Yuzu, oak, radish, tobacco, tar, crude chocolate, drop of previous tequila, the same old previous walnuts, some salt taking part in together with your lips… End: lengthy, salty, bouillony. Heavy cider within the aftertaste, some amontillado too, as soon as once more. Feedback: unbelievable, the scores are completely vertical too, nearly linear. Nice calvados.
SGP:462 – round 88 factors. |
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Calvados 40 yo 1980/2021 (45%, Asta Maurice, cask #AMF004, 150 bottles)
This child was sourced from Drouin’s too. Color: deep gold. Nostril: this one’s smoother but, in all probability extra ‘meta’, that’s to say nearer to different nice previous aged spirits (malt, brandies). It isn’t straightforward to deconstruct on the nostril, having stated that. Chalkier for positive, extra on Meursault or every other high-class fatter chardonnay, with the same old walnuts, fino and vin jaune, and even uncooked wool. Mouth: ah sure. Extra on apples than the OB, a tad extra rustic – in a great way. Apples and raisins, stewed, plus oranges and a contact of thyme. End: relatively lengthy, with a wee rubbery contact which, I imagine, is frequent in calvados. Feedback: very tough to attain, I am actually missing references and, I’d add, safety. Only for the report…
SGP: 551- round 87 factors. |
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Christian Drouin 1970 (42%, OB, calvados du Pays d’Auge, +/-2021) 
Color: full gold. Nostril: the older age begins to really feel, however this many teas couldn’t not work. Great inexperienced tea, chamomile, walnuts time and again, bitter apples… I am even discovering a coastal facet, maybe oysters? Oysters with cider vinegar is a profitable mixture if you don’t exaggerate. Only a drop. Mouth: fifty years, that is what you could attain 90. Great palate, complicated, ‘deconstructed-reconstructed’ (positive previous spirits are about philosophy)… Bah 1970 was an important classic in every single place. End: relatively lengthy, nonetheless a tad tightish, however full and great. Some varnish within the aftertaste, which I discover lovable. Encaustic. Feedback: love this one, it’s my favorite this far.
SGP:562 – round 90 factors. |
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Calvados 47 yo 1963/2011 (42%, Asta Maurice, cask #AMF005, 60 bottles, 2021)
‘Probably some relabelled previous inventory’. Or ‘a demi-john’. Color: amber. Nostril: we’re now on butterscotch and previous rhum agricole. Brioche, walnut cake once more (and once more), Jaffa desserts, tangerine marmalade, black nougat… That is very good, first time we’re discovering ‘no apples’. Mouth: you may all the time discover slightly rubber and notes of peel, in any other case that is glorious, grassy but in addition with some bacon and roasted chestnuts. End: medium, slightly bitter. Just a little maraschino, cider… Feedback: excellent, only a tad fragile right here and there.
SGP:551 – round 88 factors. |
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Adrien Camut ‘Demi-Siècle’ (40%, OB, The Auld Alliance and Colheitas, calvados du Pays d’Auge, magnum, +/-2020)
A loopy half-century magnum for our pricey buddies in Singapore. The home Camut carries a particularly excessive fame. Color: darkish crimson amber. Nostril: previous fermenting fruits, previous Cuban cigars, previous white wines, earths, previous books, suet and marrows, soups, quenelles, peppermint, chives, leeks… Boy is that this superb or is it superb? Mouth: this time once more you are feeling the countryside, the piles of apples, the farm, the grass, the tiny rubbery touches, the gritty peel, the roots and harder greens (eggplants, Jerusalem artichokes)… Calvados can be a world aside, definitely not a ooh-ha-easy one. I’ve nonetheless bought numerous work to do. End: medium, very complicated. Some mead and honey. Feedback: I am simply not in a position to assess these drops as true consultants would. I do not know what so as to add.
SGP:651 – round 90 factors. |
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Christian Drouin 1962 (42%, OB, calvados, +/-2021)
Not a pure Pays d’Auge, apparently. Color: amber. Nostril: hey, Macallan? Malt, cake, fudge, honeycomb, pencil lead, black nougat and butterscotch, even cornflakes, molasses and popcorn. Oh, and apple pie. Mouth: all gentleness at first, then teas and ‘black’ spices, with an oakiness that is about to take over. Black tea (we used so as to add ‘Russian-style’, however that is turn out to be an error of style, has it not). As soon as once more, notes of previous amontillado. End: medium, salty, miso-y, slightly buttery. Feedback: a captivating previous drop that might remind us of the Beatles and the Stones. One for Keef!
SGP:551 – round 87 factors. |
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Adrien Camut ‘Le Siècle’ (40%, OB, The Auld Alliance and Colheitas, calvados du Pays d’Auge, magnum, +/-2020)
This one is, certainly, 100 years previous. That means that this was distilled within the time of Erik Satie, Man Ray, Francis Picabia and Marcel Duchamp. To be sipped whereas watching René Clair’s L’Entr’acte, maybe. Color: crimson amber. Nostril: it’s robust, as a result of your thoughts simply cannot deal with the thought of tasting a spirit that was distilled a couple of hundred years in the past, when our dad and mom weren’t even born and whereas Herr Hitler hadn’t risen to energy but. Not even positive WWI was over, as we’ve no classic right here. What’s positive is that that is good, extraordinarily ‘mingled’, with some marvellous tomato sauce, previous candy wines (poor Crimea!), assorted previous waxes together with beeswax, and numerous secret essences from the previous days that have been merely by no means listed. It simply humbles you. |
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Mouth: nonetheless a fighter! Cedar and pine woods, rosehip tea, chocolate, black Assam, rooibos, touches of bitter cherries (or previous Chambertin, as you want), drop of soy sauce, gravy, umami… We have got time in our glass, actually. Tertiary, marginally unsure and fairly Dadaistic time. End: I imply, I doubt the distillers would have hoped some sorts of sub-human consumerists from the twenty first century would sip what they have been making. Feedback: that is like stealing some Egyptian artefacts from the British Museum. I imply, you are not too positive you earned the proper to place some drops of this surprise between your lips. Distinctive, transferring Dadaistic drop.
SGP:462 – round 92 factors.
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| Composer Erik Satie, born in Honfleur, Calvados in 1866 -> |
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So, an excellent session, I’ve tasted extra calvados right this moment than I had earlier than, in my whole life. Certain a few of them have been a tad boring, however certainly not as boring as one more spam electronic mail by BMW. Intestine feeling: greater than every other sort of aged spirit, apple brandy, even when completed/flavoured, wants numerous time. And the older, the higher, which I discover, personally, relatively reassuring and fairly refreshing. Au revoir!
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