On the nostril: Sizzling, alcohol.
On the palate: Actually, scorching alcohol and a few wooden and caramel.
The end: My god! Did I point out alcohol? I ought to point out it extra.
Quite actually, that’s what I took away from my eagerly awaited first sip Velier’s bottled Beenleigh 2015, a 5 Yr Previous Australian Rum. I used to be terribly wanting to get my arms on it, I actually should make that identified. I had by no means tried Australian rums, and even knew the nation produced any. To be truthful, Beenleigh Distillery has been round since 1884, apparently Australia’s oldest (licensed) distillery, so I’m fairly assured the sensation is mutual – that’s, they don’t know I exist both.
In any case, as I consider (presumptuously) that most individuals wouldn’t be too acquainted with this rum maker from the land Down Beneath, I ought to take it upon myself (unprompted) to offer a short introduction to them.
Beenleigh has been round in Queensland since 1884, after having acquired a floating nonetheless, nicknamed “the Walrus,” which helped the distillery get their distillation license. Thereafter, the distillery modified arms and went on and off once more till extra not too long ago. Having been acquired by VOK Drinks, the distillery started pushing out its rums once more in earnest.
Bringing it again to the current: Beenleigh is managed by Steve Magarry, and from a number of interviews with Velier and Rumporter, we are able to collect that the distillery, regardless of its lengthy and spotty historical past, can just about be regarded as model new. Most of their previous rum shares have been misplaced, their previous pot nonetheless “Previous Copper” has been retired (however nonetheless stays in its possession)
Given their comparatively smaller manufacturing capabilities, they’re targeted on producing extra consciousness of their rums, focusing extra on a being a craft distillery as a matter of branding (calling themselves “Beenleigh Artisan Distillers,” no much less), and build up their rum shares. So clearly, an endorsement by Velier is simply what they wanted, therefore their 2006 and 2015 co-bottlings. Its labored hasn’t it? Somebody’s truly writing a chunk about them on Malt.
By way of processes: the distillery makes use of a mixture of Column Nonetheless and Pot Nonetheless techniques. Apparently, the distillery additionally makes use of dunder biking (bringing ahead among the fermentation materials to subsequent distillation runs), made well-known by the Jamaican rum makers. Fermentation occasions run fairly lengthy, operating from anyplace from 4 to 5 days, as much as 12 to 14 days relying on the season.
Extra pertinent to the 2015 expression – and actually why my curiosity was piqued by the expression (even over the 2006 expression) – is the truth that I consider no different rum (on Earth no less than) lays declare to using Arid Desert Ageing as said on this Beenleigh’s label. So, that is still one thing actually distinctive with this expression.
By the distillery’s definition: Arid Desert Ageing, which is completed at their second distillation web site in Renmark (Twenty Third Road Distillery) is finest executed on the earth’s driest continent, the place temperatures run excessive and humidity low. Consequently, the maturation course of truly sees ABV go up somewhat than the standard discount of ABV.
So, returning to why I’m ruminating over how this rum is so damned scorching: Steve (as I discussed, Beenleigh’s supervisor) additionally lets us in on how the distillery prefers getting old their rums at a really excessive proof, which they take into account to be a extra conventional method paying homage to their English Caribbean and Demerara counterparts. That is moreso the case for the rums matured within the first distillation web site, whereas these present process Arid Desert Ageing start maturing at a considerably decrease proof, given how the ABV will escalate anyway.
Whereas the main focus right now is the 2015 5 Yr Previous expression of the pair of Velier co-bottlings, I’ll summarise the important thing variations between the 2006 15 Yr Previous expression, which can also be their oldest inventory available, and the 2015 5 Yr Previous expression. The 2006 classic enjoys tropical getting old, was made utilizing the higher ester-producing S. Pombe, and was matured at a better proof, whereas the 2015 classic underwent the distinctive Arid Desert Ageing, was made utilizing the extra environment friendly (however decrease ester-producing) cerevisiae pressure, and was matured at a decrease proof, though ABV escalated alongside the way in which. By way of similarities: their mixture of Column and Pot Nonetheless distillation strategies had been saved fixed throughout each vintages. So, actually simply the fermentation and maturation course of stood out as key variations.
In any case, now that you just’re on top of things, let’s get on to attempting the 2015 5 Yr Previous Arid Desert Ageing Velier/Beenleigh co-bottling, bottled at 59% ABV. For some context: after the unique scintillating tasting expertise, I had puzzled if I had gotten a nasty bottle or possibly one thing was incorrect with me. Discreetly, I re-corked it and revisited it some 3 months later, ensuing on this re-review.
Beenleigh 2015, 5 Years Previous La Maison & Velier – Assessment
First-fill ex-bourbon barrels, matured in Renmark, Riverland, South Australia, 59% ABV. Retails for round US$95 in Singapore
Color: Honey gold.
On the nostril: Lush dollops of caramel, it has a really wealthy and nearly syrupy texture to its aromas. It’s nearly opulent in its thickness. Wafts of baking spices and vanilla are additionally simply discovered within the aromas. There are some light florals as properly, notably irises and rose petals.
This actually takes its time to open up, like three months or one thing. Continued nosing brings out Filipino 7D dried mangoes; very distinctive but light notes of the tropical fruit. Waves of ripe orchard apples, peaches and raisins. It truly jogs my memory of calvados, to be sincere. Then there are extra refined notes of banana ice cream. There’s additionally a really attention-grabbing notice of hawthorn that offers the aromas simply the slightest chunk and chewiness.
Within the mouth: Actually daring, massive flavours right here – plenty of heat (not warmth as I earlier perceived). It begins off with a great deal of fruit – first the tropical fruit basket of cooked bananas (particularly banana flambe), contemporary mangoes, apricots, after which comes the orchard fruits of raspberries, darkish cherries, pink grapes and apples. It one way or the other toes the subliminal line between contemporary fruit and cooked fruit. Numerous caramel, honey and baking spices.
The palate stays extremely perfumery with the identical florals of irises and roses; it nearly appears like a potpourri. Hints of mint jelly and a few touches of milk chocolate.
The end is surprisingly clear and crisp, nearly just like the spirit is asking “what the hell simply occurred right here?” However the uber interesting flavours would encourage extra sips. Notes of cinnamon, espresso grinds, vanilla pods and a really curious notice of bittersweet sandalwood.
Conclusions:
I discover it unimaginable how a lot it has opened up since I left it to sit down for a few months. I don’t know if maybe had I simply left it to air extra on my first strive, maybe it could have executed the job simply as properly… however hey, I’m simply reporting my expertise.
Regardless of having waited fairly a very long time solely to search out it remarkably totally different, I’d say this was each bit well worth the wait. I’m wondering if one way or the other the desert getting old was so intense it wound up the rum’s esters so tightly that it takes a while for it to unravel and open up. Full pseudoscience, however that’s my hypothesis.
Upon the second strive, merely great richness with nice fascinating flavours of florals, fruits, honey, baking spices, it truly jogs my memory of a way more full of life and vibrant Demerara. The heat and these accessible flavours make this rum far too simple to drink (now, no less than). And but, for me, what took it to an entire different stage is the quantity of complexity between the notes. They don’t rush at you suddenly, they unravel layer upon layer, nearly like a blooming flower. What’s extra is the exceptional texture: it’s mid to heavy bodied, syrupy and silky, with an nearly type of bittersweet chewiness (that I known as Hawthorn) to it that balances out the largely candy, heat flavours.
This rum is actually elegant and well-balanced, with nice flavours from aromas to style and end, and an outstanding cadence the place it reveals itself in layers. It packs an entire lot of heat as properly.
Simply maybe give it three months to open up. I jest, however actually, persistence is essential right here. Properly price it!
