Able to discover one of the crucial magical wine areas round Bordeaux? A tranquil land of mild slopes and misty mornings, outlined by a thread of jade-hued water shrouded by overhanging bushes, and punctuated by modest villages and medieval châteaux. Right here family-owned properties rub shoulders with a few of the world’s most well-known wine estates, and fashionable winemakers are awakening the appellation’s luscious golden wines – and producing some thrilling dry white wines – after many years of relative slumber. Welcome to Sauternes and neighbouring Barsac, collectively house to the best variety of 1855 categorized growths within the Bordeaux area – and the sweetest little wine getaway inside a 45-minute drive of town.
Over the previous 15 years an exhilarating but underappreciated chapter on this small however mighty area’s historical past has been written by a contemporary crop of winemakers. They’re intent on giving a sprightlier elevate to the candy Sauternes that many felt had grown too opulent. The end result? A brisker, easier-drinking wine that will simply have the potential to nudge apart Champagne and ‘reclaim its historic function as a go-to French aperitif,’ says Saskia de Rothschild, govt chairwoman of Domaines Barons de Rothschild, proprietor of Château Rieussec.
Along with perkier Sauternes, prime producers are bringing vibrant new expressions to their dry Bordeaux whites, drawing on the Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc varieties. These dry wines are offering a gateway for a brand new technology of shoppers to discover candy Sauternes. After which, based on Laure de Lambert of Château Sigalas Rabaud, ‘guests are hooked on Sauternes’ new vibrancy’. Hospitality initiatives reminiscent of de Lambert’s current redo of her household’s historic winery charterhouse into a trendy bed-and-breakfast and customer centre additionally sign a brand new period. From the property’s swimming pool, de Lambert, who can be president of the 50km Bordeaux Wine Route in Graves and Sauternes, factors to the partitions and towers of her neighbour in Bommes, Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, components of which date again to the Thirteenth-century. ‘When Silvio Denz acquired Lafaurie-Peyraguey [in 2014] and remodeled it right into a Relais & Châteaux in 2018, I knew I needed to make my transfer, too,’ she says. At present, Denz’s lodge is probably the most upmarket property within the area, and its Lalique restaurant simply garnered a second Michelin star (see ‘My good day’, under).
‘Over the previous 15 years an exhilarating but underappreciated chapter on this small however mighty area’s historical past has been written by a contemporary crop of winemakers’
Sauternes-Barsac reality file
Space planted 1,900ha
Foremost grapes Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle
Wineries 140 (27 grands crus classés en 1855, together with premier cru supérieur Château d’Yquem)
Bottles bought per yr 5 million (30% exported)
Occasions This yr the Sauternes wine pageant (@sauternes_barsac) takes place on 18 June (tourisme-sud-gironde.com), and in November are the annual vineyard open-house occasions and (12-Thirteenth) La Raisin d’Or marathon.
Supply ODG Sauternes-Barsac, 2022
Good wine nation
Château d’Yquem, probably the most well-known of all of them. Credit score: Per Karlsson, BKWine 2 / Alamy Inventory Photograph
Experiencing the panoply of white wine expressions throughout the 1,900 hectares of this tiny Bordeaux appellation – the second smallest after St-Julien – is motive sufficient to go to. Throw in acclaimed fine-dining, a handful of family-owned nation bistros, and a rising alternative of lodging stitched collectively by a community of well-marked wine routes extra standard with tractors than tour buses, and Sauternes makes for nearly the right wine nation reboot.
At present, hand in hand with the brisker wines within the glass, there’s an easier, extra approachable environment at properties which have historically been closed. As a result of 90% of this appellation’s wineries are family-run, your tour and tasting information may be the third, or Thirteenth, technology to work on the property. Since winemaking has turn into an more and more difficult option to make a dwelling, many property house owners – from highest- ranked premier cru supérieur Château d’Yquem, owned by luxurious items group LVMH, to smaller estates reminiscent of Château La Clotte- Cazalis – in the identical household since 1779 – are opening their cellars, together with their historic castles and gardens, to the general public. Their intention is to introduce the fun of the area’s wines to youthful shoppers.
It’s been a gradual however regular construct in native hospitality – and wine types – since 2011. That’s when Château Guiraud turned one of many first 1855 categorized growths in Bordeaux to be licensed natural. At present, seven species of bumblebee and a rainbow of butterflies flutter among the many property’s pesticide-free gardens and vineyards, which could be explored by electrical bicycle, accessible for rent. From the terrace of La Chapelle, the country-chic restaurant overlooking Guiraud’s undulating vineyards, locals and guests dig into farm-fresh delicacies paired with native wines. Additionally within the works is a 26-room lodge with a pool and spa, a brand new wine cellar and a revamped customer centre designed by Bordeaux-based architects Chadebost (additionally liable for Château Cheval Blanc’s new chai, amongst others). Behind the plans is new majority shareholder Matthieu Gufflet, the French entrepreneur whose mission is to share the unspoiled fantastic thing about lesser-known French vineyards by his high-end, sustainability- targeted Terres de Natures lodge model.
Different vineyard visits of word round Sauternes embody Château de Rayne Vigneau for the wonderful mixing workshop or quirky treetop tasting; Château La Tour Blanche for its down-to-earth angle, tranquil carriage rides and convivial ‘after-work’ sundowners within the winery; Château d’Yquem for its fascinating tour and trendy tasting room; and Château de Fargues, owned by the venerable Lur Saluces household since 1472, for a thought-provoking bridge between Sauternes’ previous and current – e book the Chef’s Desk lunch after your tour for a particular deal with.
Bewitching Barsac
The barrel cellar on the 18th-century Château de Myrat. Credit score: Graham Prentice / Alamy Inventory Photograph
A brief drive away in neighbouring Barsac, Bérégood Lurton, of legendary first development Château Climens, is one other proprietor bringing soul again into the area’s wines by attentive stewardship of her historic property. A go to gives a window onto the area’s winemaking historical past from the seventeenth century – when the district started producing candy white wines to fulfill the demand of Flemish retailers in close by Bordeaux – to 2010, when Lurton and her property supervisor transformed the household property to biodynamic manufacturing.
‘It is a humble area, with poor earth and unpredictable climate,’ Lurton admits, wanting over the purple clay and sand that deliver minerality and crystalline magnificence to her candy and dry white wines, from 100% Semillon. ‘That’s why we will’t have huge egos.’ She gives seasonal yoga and meditation classes within the monastic loft above the vineyard, adopted by a light-weight lunch on the property – properly price planning forward for.
Much less well-known but in addition worthy of a go to is Château Gravas, which sports activities a playful vibe and an artwork gallery within the wine cellar, and gives night cultural occasions below the outdated magnolia. E book forward for a tour, tasting or meal at Château Coutet and chances are you’ll run into co-owner Aline Baly, who joined her household’s enterprise in 2018 after a few years overseas, largely within the US. At Château Simon, the Dufour sisters run the household property (ask to see their father’s corkscrew assortment). Château de Myrat, in the meantime, is owned by the de Pontac household and likewise run by two sisters; it’s a beautiful property with a jewel-box 18th-century fortress and formal gardens.
My good day in Sauternes
Morning
Head for the customer centre at Château Doisy-Daëne, flagship vineyard of the Dubourdieu household’s Barsac and neighbouring Graves estates, to pattern (and buy) its 20 wines, which vary from candy and dry whites to uncomplicated reds. Then stroll alongside Barsac’s drystone wall-lined lanes, cooled by the well-known morning mist, to the Maison des Vins de Barsac, the place you may refuel with a petit crème espresso on the bar. Except for exploring its large wine choice, you may store for scented candles and regionally harvested caviar.
Lunch & afternoon
Take lunch on the parasol-shaded terrace of Château Guiraud’s La Chapelle (see p110), or extra informally within the village on the cosy Auberge les Vignes. Then you may get pleasure from a leisurely paddle down the river Ciron, courtesy of the nautical membership in close by Bommes. A part of a protected pure hall, the shady Ciron additionally flows previous the majestic Château Royal de Cazeneuve, well-known because the residence of the kings of Navarre – if you can also make time in your agenda, it’s price calling in to tour the royal residences and medieval cellar, and benefit from the gardens (open 2-5.30pm day-after-day, 1 June to 30 September).
Night
Head to your lodging for the night time, Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, getting into by way of the stately arched gateway. After freshening up, browse the present store for Lalique fragrance, crystal desk furnishings, art work and, in fact, wines, earlier than settling right into a lounge chair on the garden for the Lalique bar’s signature aperitif, the refreshing Candy’Z (concocted with Sauternes, naturally), and heading into the Lalique restaurant for dinner. Chef Jérôme Schilling’s heartfelt, inventive delicacies garnered him a second Michelin star earlier this yr. The sommelier could even grant you a peek into the 350,000-bottle wine cellars.
Your Sauternes deal with e book
La Sauternaise B&B
The appellation’s predominant villages, Sauternes and Barsac, are solely 10km aside. There are a restricted variety of lodging and eating choices, so it’s advisable to order properly prematurely.
Sauternes
Château d’Arche is an enthralling 18th-century vineyard and lodge. Or, if you wish to push the boat out, head to the well-known Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey for luxurious Relais & Châteaux lodging and two-star Michelin eating (see ‘My good day’, above). Château Sigalas Rabaud ticks the field in terms of nation stylish, and is a Better of Wine Tourism Gold award winner. Simply outdoors Sauternes, in Budos, Domaine Cazenave is a laidback guesthouse with a pool, surrounded by bushes.
In Sauternes village, the easy, modern type of Lodge le 23 displays the youthful spirit of its house owners, Arnaud and Severine Riotte, who additionally run the unbelievable village bistro, Auberge les Vignes (see ‘My good day’, above), the place numerous wine offers have been carried out over the many years.
Throughout the road, there’s a candy boutique B&B, La Sauternaise (+33 [0]6 78 00 64 18). And don’t miss the Maison du Sauternes, set to be expanded
in 2025, for vineyard tour data, tastings and wine purchases. Simply outdoors the village, at La Desk de Trillon, the day by day lunch particular is all the time a deal with (and there’s a B&B on web site). One other native restaurant of word, L’Entrecœur, shines for home-cooked meals by the hearth or live performance dinners within the courtyard (it additionally has wines on the market).
Barsac
In between the full of life market city of Barsac and the village of Sauternes, close to Pujols-sur- Ciron, the easy visitor home at Clos Floridène, adjoining to the fashionable vineyard, overlooks tranquil vineyards stretching to the river Ciron. Additionally on the river, winemaker Marie-Pierre Lacoste-Duchesne, whose household has owned Château La Clotte-Cazalis (see above) since 1779, up to date her grandparents’ outdated manor home with three B&B rooms. Don’t miss the classic gear within the vineyard and a style
of a few of the area’s greatest modern-style wines (in natural manufacturing since 2015).
How one can get there
The closest airport is Bordeaux-Mérignac, on the western outskirts of town. If travelling by prepare, take the Paris-Bordeaux TGV (three hours) into Gare St-Jean. By automobile, head south from Bordeaux by way of the Bordeaux Wine Route – obtain the Graves et Sauternes Oenovisa ‘wine passport’ for particular offers en route. Or for pace, take the autoroute A62 (55km).
Credit score: Maggie Nelson
