Matched in excellence by high quality delicacies, the wine tradition in Alto Adige (also called South Tyrol) is deep-rooted. Vines develop at assorted altitudes in a Y-shaped space, with the principle metropolis, Bolzano, at its coronary heart. Terrains right here vary from sandy marl and limestone to schist or porphyry, and huge temperature swings make for wines that mix the recent, aromatic aromas of cooler climates with warm-weather energy and complexity. Most come below the six Alto Adige DOC sub-zones, whereas extra particular MGA zones (menzione geografica aggiuntiva: a selected, delimited space inside a DOC/G, broadly equal to a ‘climat’ in France) are deliberate.
Bolzano’s interesting historic centre has numerous references to wine in highway names, frescoes and the cathedral’s medieval ‘wine door’. Protected by mountains, town registers a few of Italy’s hottest summer season temperatures and vines flourish right here. These embody the Lagrein vines surrounding Castel Mareccio (see ‘My excellent day’). The true house of fruity, vibrant purple Lagrein is, nevertheless, throughout the Talvera river within the Gries neighbourhood. On the Muri-Gries monastery, a former fortress that’s been house to Benedictines since 1845, benchmark Lagreins embody Klosteranger, a single-vineyard Riserva from vines grown throughout the monastery partitions.
One other monastery that performs a key half in Alto Adige winemaking is Abbazia di Novacella. Energetic since 1142, it’s among the many world’s oldest wineries and is fascinating to go to. Right here within the cool Isarco valley, northeast of Bolzano, white grapes such because the semi-aromatic Kerner thrive; Sylvaner, the vineyard’s speciality, additionally grows nicely right here – a brand new glowing model is due for launch in December 2022. The producer can be certainly one of a number of experimenting with fungus-resistant [hybrid] PIWI varieties.
Additionally within the Isarco valley, on the 3ha Röck property, Hannes Augschöll is among the many new wave of winemakers bringing modifications; his vary of low-intervention wines features a Müller- Thurgau pét-nat (see our ‘Purchaser’s information’). ‘I’m aiming for drier, lighter wines than my father’s,’ he says. Every autumn, the vineyard, together with many others, opens its doorways for the Törggelen pageant, serving home-cooked dishes and speck (cured ham) that’s been smoked on the stone farmhouse.
On the southern tip of the Isarco valley, with steep 70° slopes, Gump Hof has been run by the Prackwieser household for 2 centuries. Markus, in cost since 2000, launched Sauvignon Blanc right here, and his wines have an irresistible depth. He’s certainly one of many planting at ever-higher altitudes; 2021 was the primary harvest at 800m, close to the hanging Presule Fortress.
Alto Adige: the details
Space planted 5,600ha
Altitude vary 200m-1,000m
Days of sunshine 300 every year
Annual manufacturing 40 million bottles (64% white, 36% pink); 98% are DOC
Supply: Consorzio Vini Alto Adige, 2021 altoadigewines.com
Schiava revival
‘Schiava is so versatile, excellent with modern delicacies and our native specialities’
One other younger winemaker bringing new concepts is Martin Ramoser at his household’s Fliederhof vineyard in Santa Maddalena di Sotto, the place pergola-trained Schiava vines encompass the beautiful hillside church, walkable from Bolzano by way of the St-Oswald footpath. Right here, a proportion of inky Lagrein is usually added to naturally pale Schiava (also called Vernatsch). After dominating the area’s winemaking for hundreds of years, the recent, gentle selection has endured a generic desk wine picture, however issues are trying up. ‘I actually consider in Schiava’s renaissance,’ says Ramoser. ‘It’s so versatile, and excellent with modern delicacies and our native specialities.’
At Fliederhof vineyard, from proper: Martin Ramoser, his mother and father Stefan and Astrid, and his spouse Katja. Credit score: Tobias Kaser Images
Schiava can be the principle grape within the Merano sub-zone, northwest of Bolzano, and the Caldaro DOC space round Caldaro lake to the south. With neighbouring Appiano, Caldaro is the true coronary heart of the area’s wine scene and central to the Strada del Vino with its community of paths by vineyards. Common occasions at Caldaro embody the ‘Fascination wine world South Tyrol’ sommelier talks and tastings, held on Sundays from April to November; the Kalterer Weintage ‘wine days’ out there sq. on 1-2 September; and Weinkulinarium (‘Wine & Delicacies’) on Saturday 1 October (see kaltern.com). It’s house to a historic wine museum and wineries corresponding to Peter Sölva, run by the identical household for 10 generations making some memorable wines together with a Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Lagrein mix, Amistar.
With so many growers proudly owning such tiny plots (on common a single hectare), Alto Adige’s admirably run cooperatives are elementary to the area’s wine manufacturing. However relatively than churning out lowest-common-denominator wines, many are impressively experimental. The Caldaro co-op is presently making an attempt out totally different Schiava clones, whereas Cantina Girlan has launched a Pinot Nero venture, and St Pauls is working with Pinot Bianco, the variability grown all through the area that’s a locals’ favorite for its dry, peppery chunk. It’s additionally a key participant (with Pinot Nero and Chardonnay) within the rising motion for Alto Adige traditional-method spumante.
Idyllic setting
The landmark Seventeenth-century Castel Ringberg has fabulous views from the terrace throughout a patchwork of vines to Caldaro lake. Owned by the Elena Walch vineyard, a protagonist within the latest drive for high quality, it’s run with type and brio by Walch’s two daughters. The principle website at Termeno (Tramin in German), the village Gewürztraminer is known as after, has a historic cellar with conventional sculpted barrels. Whereas locals are keen on recalling that Gewürztraminer isn’t well-liked right here, some wonderful variations of the fragrant selection are produced.
Close by at Manincor, Depend Michael Goëss-Enzenberg and his spouse Sophie are hands-on at their biodynamic property, in an idyllic setting with sheep and chickens among the many vines, a shocking manor home courting from 1608 and a contemporary underground cellar; no marvel it was chosen because the setting for the 2021 TV mini-series The Winemaker (Good Buddies Filmproduktion). Barrels are constituted of estate-grown wooden and the wines, together with the Mason Pinot Nero, share an class that displays the placement.
Horses and oxen are among the many animals grazing the vineyards on the Alois Lageder vineyard, a group of atmospheric farm buildings in Magrè on the southern finish of the Strada del Vino. Lots of the wines have Demeter biodynamic certification, and the highest vary, which ages to the sounds of Bach’s Brandenburg Concertos, contains an distinctive Chardonnay and a historic discipline mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Cabernet Franc and Merlot from 140-year-old vines on the Löwengang property. However they’re mere kids in comparison with a vine planted within the village in 1601, a pure monument that’s nonetheless producing grapes at this time.
Alto Adige is the diamond tip of the Italian wine scene and far of its wine by no means leaves the area – all of the extra purpose to plan a visit to this extraordinary wine-lover’s wonderland.
Alois Lageder. Credit score: Gianni Bodini
My excellent day in Alto Adige
Morning
Begin the day on the Piazza Erbe market in central Bolzano to purchase regionally grown apples, then choose up spicy pastries or select from a variety of breads on the Franziskaner bakery (@franziskanerbaeckerei) across the nook. Pop into the Franciscan church subsequent door to see medieval frescoes earlier than taking your purchases for a breakfast picnic on the Talvera riverside park, stopping for espresso on the way in which. Take a brief stroll to see the vines at Castel Mareccio, then cross the river into the Gries neighbourhood. Go to the imposing Muri-Gries monastery (see p68) and check out a collection of wines, together with among the perfect Lagrein there may be. Earlier than leaving the realm, stroll by unique vegetation alongside the zig-zagging Guncina footpath for a shocking panoramic view throughout town to the Dolomites.
Lunch & Afternoon
Decide up your automobile and head southeast and up one other hillside for lunch on the idyllic Grafhof farmhouse (see ‘Your Alto Adige tackle guide’), simply 5km out of city – although it feels a lot additional than that. Tuck right into a meal of farm-fresh eggs with potatoes and speck, adopted by strudel made with home-grown apples, all whereas having fun with the fabulous views throughout the valley to the Santa Maddalena hill and its tapestry of pergola-trained vines. After lunch, drive south alongside the Strada del Vino to Caldaro. Discover the engaging city centre, go to the Museo del Vino and cease on the Peter Sölva vineyard (see above). Stroll by vines on the Sentiero del Vino footpath to see Caldaro lake, ending up again within the centre on the Casa del Vino Punkt (see ‘Your Alto Adige tackle guide’) wine bar for a personalised tasting of native wines.
Night
From Caldaro it’s simply 7km to Lodge Weinegg (see ‘Your Alto Adige tackle guide’). After checking in, cross the resort backyard and vines past to the Okay Martini & Sohn vineyard. Attempt a few of its wonderful wines or loosen up at a barrel desk on the patio with a glass of old-vine Pinot Bianco. Get pleasure from a scrumptious dinner on the resort terrace – maybe native char with white wine mousse and one thing from the intensive wine record – then end the day with a soothing swim below the celebs within the resort’s heated indoor-outdoor pool.
Your Alto Adige tackle guide
Lodging
Angerburg, San Michele Appiano
This straightforward but comfy, family-run resort stands in a big backyard with an orchard and pool. Balconies have spectacular views and the restaurant serves conventional dishes and native wines.
Lodge Weinegg, Cornaiano
A five-star resort resort with a well-equipped spa and indoor-outdoor pool, plus very good eating and a formidable wine record together with bottles from the proprietor’s household property.
Panholzer, Caldaro
Keep on the suite among the many vines close to lake Caldaro and tuck into superbly offered seasonal dishes on the attractive stone farmhouse restaurant with courtyard backyard.
Eating places & bars
Löwengrube
Alois Lageder Paradeis, Magrè
Named after the mountain behind, this organic-certified vineyard restaurant specialises in gentle and attractive dishes with a lot use of estate-grown greens, paired, after all, with Alois Lageder wines.
Casa del Vino Punkt, Caldaro
Each a locals’ bar and showcase for Caldaro wines, this casual ‘home of wine’ on the central piazza gives 20-25 wines by the glass, personalised tastings and typical snacks together with smoked sausage and native cheese. @weinhauspunkt
Grafhof, Bolzano
The Staffer household’s historic Buschenschank (farmhouse vineyard serving meals), which overlooks Bolzano, has a wood-clad stube and terrace. Get pleasure from tasty house cooking corresponding to spinach-filled pasta, paired with Schiava wine.
Löwengrube, Bolzano
Custom and design mix at Bolzano’s oldest restaurant, courting from 1543. There are medieval frescoes, a thousand-strong wine record and a menu that includes dishes corresponding to braised lamb cannelloni.
Rifugio Oberholz, Obereggen
Take the Obereggen chairlift or stroll (90 minutes) to this modern mountain hut (2,096m above sea stage) for spectacular surroundings and very good delicacies. Attempt the Alpine beef with a Lagrein Riserva and candy kaiserschmarrn pancakes.
Vögele, Bolzano
An area establishment with an all-day menu of conventional specialities, this historic tavern ensures at the very least 75% regional wines as a part of the Locanda Sudtirolese affiliation.
Learn how to get there
Bolzano is 60km from Trento and 150km from Verona, the closest main airport together with Innsbruck (120km); Alto Adige Bus runs common shuttles. Bolzano airport has some worldwide flights.
Credit score: Maggie Nelson
