Story by Cara Devine. Cara is our Melbourne-based drinks author. She is the supervisor of Bomba in Melbourne and the face and expertise behind the cocktailing youtube channel Behind the Bar. You possibly can e mail her at behindthebarchannel@gmail.com
After serving an extended apprenticeship around the globe from Royal Dornoch in Scotland to a few of Melbourne’s best bars, Andy Chu goes out on his personal.
Hospitality staff in Melbourne may have lengthy been acquainted with Celestial Avenue, even when they don’t know the title. Located within the coronary heart of Chinatown, it’s dwelling to Supper Inn – a late-night establishment that has satiated the starvation of many a bartender after an evening on the tins. Now, although, there may be another excuse to go to: One or Two, a self-proclaimed ‘small bar’ owned and operated by Andy Chu.
Chu was largely raised in Hong Kong, regardless of being Sydney born, and first began studying up on booze historical past earlier than deciding to take a step into hospitality as a profession. After getting his foot within the door at a Japanese restaurant (on the time managed by Kelvin Low of the Elysian, which could clarify Chu’s subsequent enthusiasm for whisky!) he landed a job as a barback at The Everleigh, one of the vital well-respected bars in Melbourne which is famend for his or her rigorous coaching. He ended up spending nearly 4 years with the Made within the Shade group, working of their ice firm Navy Power as effectively.
“[Chu] labored at Royal Dornoch, a golf course with a restaurant and bar about an hour exterior of Inverness the place he took the chance to immerse himself in whisky tradition, ultimately collaborating with Dornoch Distillery to do a bottling completely for One or Two.”
In addition to bettering his bartending expertise immensely he additionally credit the corporate with serving to him enhance his confidence in talking English, which was in all probability very useful along with his subsequent transfer – first to London, after which to distant Scotland (the place even this Scottish author would wrestle with the accents!). He labored at Royal Dornoch, a golf course with a restaurant and bar about an hour exterior of Inverness the place he took the chance to immerse himself in whisky tradition, ultimately collaborating with Dornoch Distillery to do a bottling completely for One or Two.
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Coming again to Melbourne through Canada, Chu grew to become “the playboy of Melbourne” (bar clever!), serving to out at a formidable roster of bars akin to Byrdi, the Black Pearl and Above Board whereas formulating the plans for his personal place. “The lease was signed in Might, however the bar didn’t come collectively till October – it took 5 months to get all of the paperwork permitted, despite the fact that we had it able to go once we received the lease – we weren’t mucking round! It was a bit irritating however higher late than by no means.”
They opened on the finish of October, with out an excessive amount of in the best way of fanfare. “We’d slightly let individuals get pleasure from themselves after which unfold the great phrase”, says Chu. The thought is to embody his conception of hospitality: “On the finish of the day, it’s the way you’d deal with your Grandma… your smile, your consideration, these issues are free to offer and you may earn company’ belief.”
He doesn’t need One or Two to aim to be all issues to all individuals, although – they’ve a considerate however small choice (providing solely two beers, for instance), and so they solely make the cocktails listed on their menu. “Hospitality, for some time now, has forgotten to say ‘no’, particularly via Covid occasions…my purpose is to be a small bar that persons are coming to for a cause. You wouldn’t go to a pizza store and ask for one of the best Indian rice they’ve. I’ve to choose what I can do, and supply high quality over amount.”
“Hospitality, for some time now, has forgotten to say ‘no’, particularly via Covid occasions…my purpose is to be a small bar that persons are coming to for a cause. You wouldn’t go to a pizza store and ask for one of the best Indian rice they’ve. I’ve to choose what I can do, and supply high quality over amount.” – Andy Chu
That is the whole thought behind the title One or Two, says Chu. “The choices are one or two, the corporate needs to be one or two, you need to be right here for one or two hours and keep for one or two rounds.” He desires to be a pit cease in company’ nights, not the principle occasion. “Once you go to a park, there may be a chair you sit on for quarter-hour then maintain transferring. We’re that chair in your night time – have a quiet second and refresh your self.”
He desires individuals to eat in addition to drink, and maintain transferring to assist restrict intoxication – therefore the situation in Chinatown with a few of the finest informal snacking within the metropolis. He enjoys bar hopping tradition, saying “don’t sit in a single bar and drink six cocktails. Go attempt one other bar, have a reference – perhaps some issues will probably be higher, some issues not, nevertheless it’s all private. There’s no such factor because the ‘finest bar’, nothing is ideal.”
This philosophy comes from the idea of ‘wabi-sabi’, a Japanese worldview which advocates accepting the imperfection and transience of life. “It means issues are all the time transferring, issues naturally occur,” explains Chu. He incorporates this into the design of the bar, utilizing textures like ceramics and wooden as a result of these will put on and even break, however could be repaired. “Each time you come to the door, some small factor will probably be completely different – the lighting, the music, the ornament…you’ll by no means have perfection, however that’s good as a result of in case you have perfection you won’t have innovation – there’s no area to enhance which suggests you’re caught in the identical cycle.” It additionally means consideration to element – Chu has a eager eye for the movement of the area and the way individuals will use it, in addition to going out of his technique to minimise waste and single-use merchandise. He commissions customized items like art work, knives, espresso cups (sure, they do pour over espresso as effectively) and the aforementioned unique whisky bottling, with the purpose being to supply an expertise that may’t be replicated.
With this a lot consideration and energy, it’s not stunning that after I ask what he does on his days off his response is “sleep!”. His thoughtfulness and willingness to be versatile ensures that One or Two will probably be a stellar, and always evolving, addition to Melbourne nightlife. “Issues are all the time transferring. Who is aware of, 20 years in the past nobody was consuming in a bar like this – they might go to TGIF and drink a giant Blue Hawaiian. It’s about following the traits but additionally creating a brand new development.”
I requested Chu if he has any closing ideas. “I simply need individuals to come back and expertise the bar,” he says. You need to.
TUE – SAT : 4PM – 12AM
18 CELESTIAL AVE, MELBOURNE VIC 3000
oneortwo.com.au
