How effectively can you actually know anyone?
I am asking myself the whiskey model of this query. Particularly, I’m questioning how a lot deviation from a distillery’s regular taste profile would possibly moderately be anticipated in sure circumstances. Is it potential {that a} peculiar maturation regime might amplify the (typically vital) swings we expertise between single barrels, in a means that propels the fragrant and taste profile distant from the strange?
The catalyst for this meditation is the whiskey I’ve in hand. It comes from a distillery that produces a few of my favourite bourbon whiskies; those that know me effectively may need already guessed that I’m referring to Heaven Hill. The additional intrigue is added not simply because I’ll be tasting a single barrel expression, but in addition as a result of this barrel has aged in each typical and (for bourbon) unconventional circumstances earlier than bottling.
That is 10 12 months previous whiskey from the WhiskyBase Archives “Butterflies from the USA” collection, for which Okay&L Wines is the unique retailer in California. Okay&L can be listed as having “meticulously chosen” this on the label. Okay&L’s personal web site for the discharge offers some useful further coloration:
“This whisky spent six years in Kentucky in used cooperage earlier than making the journey to Scotland for 4 extra years.”
It’s known as “2009,” which I’m assuming signifies the 12 months of distillation, implying that this comes from the Bernheim distillery, versus the previous (now-destroyed) Bardstown distillery. As such, this doesn’t actually have the shortage issue related to “pre-fire” Heaven Hill whisky.
Nonetheless, it’s fascinating to notice that that is labeled “American Whisky” versus “Bourbon,” with the maturation in used oak (in addition to that journey to Scotland) having disqualified the liquid from the latter appellation. What ought to this imply when it comes to the impact on maturation?
Effectively, (generalizing enormously) Scotland has a cooler, extra humid atmosphere than Kentucky. You would possibly recall from prior opinions (these of my very own in addition to others’) that water evaporates extra quickly than alcohol in scorching and dry circumstances (e.g. on the highest flooring of a rickhouse), producing bourbons that typically “proof up” to 70% ABV and above. I used to be subsequently shocked to see that the 4 years within the comparatively chilly Scottish local weather didn’t appear to have diminished the efficiency of this very a lot, being because it ended up at 133.2 proof, effectively above the Heaven Hill barrel entry proof of 125.
What, subsequently, ought to I expect when it comes to the flavour profile of this barrel? I’m ranging from my expertise with the usual Heaven Hill rye bourbon mash invoice (78% corn, 10% rye, 12% malted barley), with the distillery’s hallmark citric and metallic parts. Past that, wanting on the comparatively excessive ABV and anticipating one thing burly, within the method of the ten-ish 12 months previous bottles which have latest been popping out of the Elijah Craig Barrel Proof non-public barrel program. However, the USP right here is that this barrel spent 4 tenths of its time in Scotland, pointing towards the potential of extra delicate flavors, the kinds of which emerge from stone warehouses right here within the U.S. Then there’s additionally the problem of the second-fill barrels which, all issues being equal, could be anticipated to exert a much less forceful affect on the spirit.
At this level you most likely really feel as confused as I do, so let’s minimize the chitter-chatter and get to tasting some whisky, lets? Simply earlier than I start, nevertheless, some closing technical specifics about this bottle which may be of curiosity:
That is single cask #3448496 (shortened to #496 on Okay&L’s web site), distilled on 8/17/2009 and bottled on 11/11/2019 in a run of 247 bottles at 133.2 proof (66.6% ABV), as famous above. Per the again label, it’s non-chill filtered and with out added coloration.
Retail value on Okay&L’s web site was $120, which I can be utilizing for scoring on our price-sensitive scoring bands. This was a pattern generously offered by Mike, who as soon as once more has my honest thanks.
Archives Heaven Hill 10 Yr – Evaluate
Coloration: A surprisingly pale golden yellow.
On the nostril: Equally limpid, this has the vaguest nuttiness (maybe a cashew, in the event you pin me down) in addition to some very refined notes of confectioners sugar, flower petals, limestone, and a inexperienced stalkiness that I normally affiliate with a lot youthful whiskey. After some time, I begin to get a candy and tart pink berry observe. Taking some extra time reveals the tiniest pinch of cinnamon, however in any other case the aromas listed below are restricted of their breadth and poorly resolved of their presentation, bar that pink fruit observe.
Within the mouth: Far more forceful to start out within the mouth, this begins with a blast of candy fruitiness within the method of orange flavored onerous candies. That fruitiness stays, mutating into a really delicate observe of strawberry, itself an surprising shock given I can’t recall ever tasting this observe in Heaven Hill whiskey earlier than. That observe carries on into and thru the end, certainly remaining the dominant attribute of this whisky from entrance to again. There’s random flavors that pop up right here and there – a metallic nip of metal in the midst of the mouth, some polished wooden at the start of the end – however the overwhelming impression is of that uncanny fruitiness.
Conclusions:
This isn’t dangerous whiskey, however it’s pretty one-note. The palate is extra compelling than the nostril, the place there’s too little range and delineation of aromas to essentially maintain my curiosity. It improves within the mouth, however is mainly a single taste (strawberry) with the occasional accent. To me, that is extra a curiosity than a full-fledged instance of the perfect of Heaven Hill. Although it has its place within the psychological mosaic of a Heaven Hill completist like myself, I can’t actually suggest it to a basic viewers, not least of all in consideration of the very hefty price ticket connected. As a consequence, I’m compelled to knock some extent off of common.
Rating: 4/10
I’m glad to have tried this whiskey, not least of all so as to add a dot to my “Un dimanche après-midi à l’Île de la Grande Jatte”-like canvas of Heaven Hill’s output. It’s in contrast to another, in methods each good and dangerous. Most significantly: it reinforces a perception within the risk that modifications in maturation circumstances can produce excessive divergences within the resultant whiskey. I’d wish to see producers like Heaven Hill (and others) embrace this in an experimental trend, offered they’ll share the outcomes extra economically than is the case right here.
Lead picture courtesy of Okay&L. Different bottle pictures courtesy of WhiskyBase.
