To paraphrase the Bard: the satan works onerous, however Ardbeg Distillery’s advertising workforce works more durable.
Every season is an excuse for a brand new uncommon Ardbeg launch. February this yr noticed the discharge of the Ardbeg Fermutation (which underwent a unnaturally lengthy fermentation interval). Fèis Ìle 2022 noticed one Ardcore distilled from roasted black malt. April noticed the discharge of the Fon Fhòid which was buried in peat bogs for a number of years, earlier than being launched from Singapore on the again of a NFT (which I thankfully hesitated to buy, contemplating rumours of an impending crypto rout). On the price these bottles are coming, I’m working out of f… ideas to offer.
Then there’s an much more outlandish marketing campaign that hardcore followers couldn’t have anticipated. Ardbeg’s core vary expressions now have a sci-fi graphic novel that explains their “origin tales”.
Extra not too long ago, The Glenmorangie Firm (which owns Ardbeg) bought The Islay Resort, which sits on the charming Port Ellen in an bold plan to create a whisky-and-hospitality expertise on Islay the place lodging, meals, and drink could be offered to Ardbeg followers.
Saying the sky is the restrict to the creativeness of Moët Hennessy’s entrepreneurs is an understatement. They’re, in spite of everything, the primary Scotch to be matured in area.
It goes with out saying that there could be a launch to mark the tip of journey restrictions, as air journey returns in full power. Ardbeg’s new Smoketrails Manzanilla Journey Unique version simply grew to become accessible for buy in Heathrow Airport this month for the worth of round £68. Due to the nice bar supervisor at The Single Cask Singapore, I’m in all probability one of many first few within the nation to have a style of this new launch.
The Smoketrails assortment would apparently contain Shortie – Ardbeg Distillery’s canine mascot – sourcing for good high quality casks from totally different nations (Shortie is the Jack Russell circled in pink within the promotional poster above). The primary version options traditional Ardbeg cask whisky matured in American oak married with Ardbeg whisky aged in ex-Manzanilla casks sourced from Sanlúcar de Barrameda off Spain’s Atlantic Coast.
Given the sheer variety of operational whisky distilleries, releasing a Manzanilla Sherry -aged whisky isn’t one thing significantly revolutionary nowadays. That mentioned, I’d level out that amongst the foremost kinds of Sherry, Manzanilla is among the lightest and driest, with low sugar ranges and sometimes a tangy, yeasty, savoury character. These influences and flavours are considerably totally different from the extra frequent sorts of wealthy or candy Sherry used for whisky maturation, the likes of Oloroso or Pedro Ximénez.
Let’s get to tasting this.
Ardbeg Smoketrails Manzanilla Version – Overview
American oak casks and Sanlúcar de Barrameda Manzanilla casks, 46% ABV.
Color: Pale gold, or sunflower oil.
On the nostril: A mixture of gentle Ardbeggian ashiness with a recent, mild brightness with a number of savouriness. Opens with a full of life be aware of pomelo, dry Riesling and a slice of burnt lemon peels. On the similar time there’s a particular toasty nuttiness to the nostril. The nostril develops into ample notes of toasted Chinese language black sesame (黑芝麻), roasted peanuts and almond butter. The Manzanilla appears to have imparted some oiliness and gentle doughy character. I’m getting croutons and herbed sourdough bread dipped in virgin olive oil.
Very approachable nostril for an Ardbeg. There’s not fairly the identical peaty depth because the Ardbeg Uigeadail or Corryvreckan, not even the identical stage of punchiness because the Wee Beastie.
Within the mouth: Recent, oily, ashy, stuffed with fragrant herbs. Opens with the intense tartness of Riesling accompanied by a spearmint be aware, considerably like Ricola Eucalyptus drops. The feel is flippantly oily and the spirit coasts the tongue. Rapidly develops in the direction of an understated ashiness because the peppery and assertive be aware of oregano grows and grows.
A posh aroma of freshly crushed black peppercorns finally pervades the oral cavity; not a lot the prickliness or tingly sensation, however the fragrant mustiness of black pepper. Sure impressions from the nostril proceed right here. There’s a sure salinity right here, very like Japanese wakame seaweed salad. There’s additionally a stronger briny, nutty olive oil be aware paying homage to Italian bruschetta with pesto (grilled bread topped with garlic, olive oil, salt and tomatoes).
The end is medium size, with mild notes of lemon cake (only a trace of sweetness), as soon as once more burnt lemon peels, full of life prickly spice entertaining the again palate and a trailing ham-like smokiness.
Conclusions:
That is approachable, balanced, pretty flavourful with a few attention-grabbing minor chords that titillate the palate (I nosed this time and again and I couldn’t shake the picture of roasted peanuts and peanut butter from my head).
Rating: 7/10
Make it 5/10 for trustworthy Ardbeg acolytes, as a result of it wasn’t fairly the “Smoky Blast Journey” hardcore peat heads could anticipate from seeing the advertising copies. Typical Ardbegs have a signature punchiness and depth. This isn’t a traditional in that sense; it does carry a few of that DNA, however it’s extra like a nice mushy ashiness that will get interpreted as milder notes of, say, roasted black sesame or burnt citrus.
Whisky has wider enchantment now than ever earlier than. That is arguably excellent news. So moderately than specializing in a slender area of interest of “cultists,” it’s not stunning that the legion of NAS expressions nowadays from Massive Whisky (a time period which will surely embody the likes of Glenmorangie and Ardbeg) would proceed to hunt broad enchantment to the broader phase of whisky drinkers preferring simpler sippers.
Certainly the underside line is rarely removed from the minds in Moët Hennessy – as Taylor famous in his hilarious assessment of the Ardbeg 8 Years Previous For Dialogue – however I do suppose “stability” (and, God prepared, a little bit of baseline high quality) is an affordable benchmark for Massive Whisky producers to proceed to attempt for. And if my private backside line is met, I feel I’m okay with that.
