Benromach distillery was initially based in 1898 in Forres, Speyside.
Like many others, it went silent throughout the ebb and move of whisky’s reputation within the 20th century. The distillery was mothballed by United Distillers’ subsidiary J&W Hardie Restricted in 1983. Based on Philip Morrice in his Schweppes Information, the output from Benromach was thought to be one of many best Highland malt whiskies. It was sometimes bottled by Gordon & MacPhail and Wm Cadenheads, however largely went into blends such because the Antiquary Deluxe Previous Scotch, which was a model additionally owned by J&W Hardie.
In 1993 the distillery was bought by Gordon & MacPhail and underwent an in depth refurbishment. Benromach reopened to provide spirit in 1998, precisely 100 years after the founding. As the primary new spirit ran off the nonetheless George Urquhart (Mr George) was sat subsequent to the sprit protected and tasted the brand new make from their new distillery, celebrating a protracted held ambition of the Urquhart household to distil whisky in addition to mature and bottle it.
The choice to reopen a distillery was fairly daring in 1993.The whisky loch was nonetheless very full, and the recognition of Scotch had but to succeed in such giddy heights as as we speak. The one different vital distillery growth on the time was Isle of Arran. Maybe that contributed to the conservative measurement of Benromach: only a single wash and spirit nonetheless produce the whisky. Output was elevated in 2013 and 2017; though no adjustments to the stills have been made, extra washbacks have been installled and a warehousing for the maturing whisky was constructed. The output of the distillery remains to be solely round 400,000l up from 150,000l when it reopened.
The extra manufacturing will doubtless start to filter by way of to new markets – such because the US and Asia – from 2023. That yr additionally marks each the 125th anniversary of the distillery itself, in addition to the 25th anniversary of the reopening by the Urquhart household.
There’s restricted info at present a few ahead plan for 2023, largely as a result of the enterprise has been focussing on constructing the Cairn Distillery 23 miles additional South at Grantown-on-Spey. Present estimates are that the Cairn shall be on account of open round September 2022. The Cairn will owe rather a lot to the teachings discovered at Benromach during the last 24 years, and notably these onerous classes discovered by Keith Cruickshank who has been Distillery Supervisor all through the revival interval.
Earlier this yr throughout a distillery go to it was rumoured that manufacturing and customer centre workers would transfer South to The Cairn to get issues up and working and permit for a interval of refurbishment at Benromach previous to reopening for the anniversary. It’s unclear if this stays the plan given the delays in finishing the Cairn.
When Benromach reopened, the distillery focused at a forgotten type of whisky: the smoky Speyside whisky that was often frivolously peated, but nonetheless gentle and fruity. By the Seventies and Eighties Speyside distillers had deserted peat in favour of the candy easy type of whisky which stays the ‘character’ of Speyside as we speak. Benromach is often frivolously peated to 12ppm, however has used malt between 8ppm and 30ppm for varied particular editions. In keeping with Gordon & MacPhail cask insurance policies, the casks at Benromach are usually of top of the range.
In mid 2020 Benromach rebranded to a contemporary daring typeset and clear age statements. I perceive this strategy is pushed by shoppers within the USA who seem to understand the daring signposting, or who don’t reply properly to tiny textual content on whisky labels. The colors of the distillery whitewash and daring crimson painted woodwork encourage the color scheme.
So, what of the output of the distillery that’s lastly coming of age? Nicely, I’ve a evaluate of three distillery unique casks under, and can hopefully get spherical to reviewing the core vary in the end. Within the meantime, Andrew has reviewed the Contrasts: Peat Smoke favourably , although Mark P was much less enamoured with older batches of the Cask Power; previous to that the final time Malt visited the distillery was as way back as 2018.
Benromach 2006 to 2022 Distillery Unique Polish Oak – Assessment
Hogshead. 58.1% ABV. £140.
Color: Builder’s tea.
On the nostril: Perfumed oak, polished mahogany, wax crayons, Derwent Artists Pencil shavings, BBQ peaches, bruised learn apples, vanilla poached rhubarb, dusty baking spices. Water brings out extra fruit, raspberry and redcurrant. Actually complicated like the very best American Bourbons.
Within the mouth: Candy and easy oak character, adopted by gorse flowers, tropical muesli, heather smoke and dried pineapple. Recent ginger, Scottish macaroon, beautiful oily spiced end that adheres to the tongue. With water it mellows and permits the complexity from the nostril to turn out to be simpler to take pleasure in. An incredible funkiness from over ripe fruit develops too.
Conclusions:
Actually fascinating; one thing totally different from Scotch. Uncommon, inviting whisky that will little question develop and provide one thing new every time you revisit the bottle.
Rating: 8/10
Benromach 2003 to 2021 18 Years Previous – Assessment
First-fill ex-bourbon cask. 57.4% ABV. £110. Distillery (and Distillery web site) unique.
Color: Pale gold.
On the nostril: Initially fairly tight on the nostril, barely spicy from the oak and peat, the fruit may be very restrained. With water it turns into extra biscuity, malty, dusty barely smoky vanilla, a fruity funk creating.
Within the mouth: Thick and oily; the peat offers a wealthy robustness. Some smoke. An effervescent shiny white fruit and extra gently tingling spicy peat, oak, and remarkably drinkable at full power. With a number of drops of water, it’s far more vigorous, fruity and the funkiness of the fruit actually comes out. With a barely bitter end.
Conclusions:
The funky fruit notes are an actual function right here; the peat is sort of imperceptible past the richness it gives. Nice physique and complexity.
Rating: 7/10
Benromach 2010 to 2021 Recent Sherry 11 Years Previous – Assessment
59.8% ABV. £74.99.
Color: Gold.
On the nostril: Heavy wealthy sherry, darkish fruit, plum, blackberry, boiled caramel, some new leather-based, sticky toffee pudding, almond pralines ready over an open hearth in a copper pan. Candy toffee popcorn. With water, a whiff of marmite, treacle toffee and extra butter.
Within the mouth: refined sherry, oak spices distinguished earlier than mild spicy peat and an antiseptic bitterness. Barely easy however a fantastic steadiness and integration between forceful peat and candy sherry. Water helps dilute the sherry and let the spirit by way of.
Conclusions:
For me the peat is somewhat too medicinal right here from an in any other case refined dram. Nice whisky, not overly complicated.
