Simply sharing an statement and ideas from a distiller I’m conversant in concerning the evolution of the palate combined with my very own ramblings…
As spirits have confirmed, tendencies are at all times cyclical. Rum was one of many spirits of alternative through the age of sail. However, world occasions just like the American Revolution precipitated rum to be put aside. It noticed a short rise in recognition throughout Prohibition and the golden period of Tiki. After being within the muck for many years, it has the eye of shoppers as soon as once more.
We’re already conversant in whisky gluts that occurred in several components of the world, so there’s no want to speak about these once more.
Other than categorical tendencies, I believe there’s additionally a noticeable rise of individuals wanting extra taste, in addition to selection, in meals and booze. Personally, I believe meals tendencies resembling gastronomy and the recognition of making an attempt genuine and/or fusion dishes from extra flavorful cultures resembling Mexican and Asian meals paved the way in which for this. I assume as folks eat higher, they ultimately search to drink higher.
The 1800s noticed the invention of the column nonetheless. To quick ahead issues, this ultimately led to shoppers wanting gentle drinks resembling multi-column distilled spirits resembling vodka and Bacardi, to drowning whisk(e)y in ice. I primarily blame advertising in adverts, films and exhibits as a result of they preached that clean is nice and funky. At this time, there are much less and fewer shoppers preferring vodka and ingesting whisk(e)y on the rocks. Easy is beginning to change into extra of a disliked phrase.
Albeit nonetheless a minority, the rising variety of shoppers demanding that extra single malts have extra taste through bottling at larger ABV and non-chill filtering is a testomony to this. Not solely is there extra demand for taste, an increasing number of shoppers wish to style one thing distinctive resembling peat and rum funk. Principally, that is achieved by ingesting peated single malt and pot distilled Jamaican rum. Protected to say that earlier than the only malt increase, peated Scotch was principally drunk by blends and Jamaican rum as a mix or in blends or in cocktails.
The distiller I spoke with thinks these tendencies have led to the evolution of the palate. He stated that the demand for the super-heavy peat bomb that’s Octomore and actually excessive ester rums resembling Hampden’s DOK are indicators that folks’s palates are evolving.
To interrupt it down: the standard peated Islay single malt Scotch ranges from 25ppm (Bowmore) to 65ppm (Ardbeg). Caol Ila and Lagavulin are round 35ppm whereas Laphroaig is round 45ppm. Appreciating this has allowed folks to understand and/or search extra peat such because the colossal peat bomb that’s Octomore, whose numerous releases has been produced at round 100+ppm to 250+ppm. By no means in historical past has this been accomplished earlier than. Had this been accomplished earlier than the only malt increase, I don’t suppose it will have labored. Shoppers may need both referred to as it an abomination or been afraid to strategy it.
For funky rum, there’s at all times been very funky excessive ester Continental marques of Jamaican rum being produced. The ester counts of those vary from 700 – 1600 (gr/hL AA). 1600 grams per hectoliter is the very best ester counts Jamaican laws permit, however I’ve been instructed there have been Jamaican rum produced with larger ester counts previously. You may verify for the checklist of full Jamaican rum marques on this Cocktail Wonk hyperlink.
Traditionally, rum marques with this a lot ester have been used for mixing and different industries resembling cosmetics. Extra popularly, continental marque rum was and is closely utilized by the Germans for his or her rum verschnitt, which is usually a impartial spirit made out of beets then flavored with rum. The Germans did this to save lots of on taxes. Importing one thing concentrated with taste means they should import much less. Then they dilute that with low cost impartial spirit as form of an extender. Much less prices for them, however extra revenue on the identical time.
Like Octomore fanatics, there’s a small group of rum geeks who like to drink actually funky Jamaican rum labeled as Continental marques like Hampden’s <>H, C<>H and DOK. For reference, Hampden’s 8 yr previous makes use of solely their OWH marque which has ester counts of round 40 to 80 (gr/hL AA).
Entry stage Jamaican rum like Appleton 12 might have been a greater instance since they’re extra accessible. However with Appleton being secretive, I don’t know the ester counts for them. The identical reasoning applies for normal expressions of different Jamaican rum since they’re normally a mix of various marques.
After mentioning numerous Octomore and excessive ester Jamaican rum, I believe it’s solely proper that I assessment one in every of them. Fortunately I’ve a pal with gave me a pattern of this Octomore OBA.
Bruichladdich Octomore OBA Idea – Assessment
59.7%. A distillery bottling. 3,000 500 ml bottles. €130 on launch.
Coloration: Mahogany.
On the nostril: Not as overwhelmingly smoky and peaty as the opposite Octomores I’ve tried. I get medium to pronounced aromas of charred BBQ bits, leather-based, campfire, iodine, peat, seaweed, the coast, walnuts, and almonds. In between are gentle aromas of black cherries, pink Bordeaux wine tannins, sulfur, and different unidentifiable pink fruits.
Within the mouth: The ethanol bites tougher right here than on the nostril. I style medium to pronounced aromas of charred BBQ bits, iodine, burnt wooden, nori snacks, overripe cherries, baguette, French toast, pink fruit, and tannins from pink Bordeaux wine. In between are random appearances of sulfur, cranberries, darkish chocolate with cherries, and chicory espresso. On the finish is a long-lasting style of blood orange combined with chocolate, sulfur, and occasional.
Conclusions:
I usually can’t get previous the peat and smoke of any earlier Octomores I’ve had. However, being a 2017 launch, I’m certain this has had time to breathe, which could clarify why I get a wider array of flavors right here. In fact, I’m solely assuming, since I didn’t get to do that when it was newly opened.
The presence of pink fruit notes, sulfur and French bread notes make me suppose a number of the whisky right here was aged in ex-red Bordeaux wine casks. It’s a pleasant contact. Whereas I usually complain about sulfur, I don’t thoughts it right here. It’s very gentle and is overshadowed by numerous fascinating flavors you wouldn’t usually get in a peated islay single malt.
I’m certain this can be a peek into what extra peat heads are going to drink within the coming a long time. As geeks crave extra cask power and peatier stuff, the affect will maintain trickling right down to make extra preferences and palates evolve.
I believe this whisky is value it for the worth it was launched at. But when I obtained the bottle on the price it’s going or went for within the public sale market (round €700), I’d price it decrease.
