Let’s face it: the world of whisky could be insupportable if it wasn’t for its characters.
Tright here’s solely an excessive amount of advertising and marketing spin, PR guff, model ambassadors with plastic smiles and scripted spiels on their product, grossly inflated costs, and gone-in-a-second particular editions. Until you detach, it may be exhausting.
Taylor lately opined that, hey, guess what: whisky might and must also be enjoyable. And it may be… should you meet the correct individuals.
They’re on the market: the figuring out bar supervisor who has seen all of it, a distillery tour information who makes you are feeling valued. At this time I chat with one such outstanding particular person within the Australian whisky scene: Graham Wright, proprietor of The Odd Whisky Coy. I’ve attended tastings hosted by Graham on the Elysian Whisky Bar in Melbourne and several other issues are clear:
- Graham’s ardour for Cadenheads.
- Graham’s encyclopaedic data of whisky and the enterprise.
- Graham is a bloke who sees issues for each how they could possibly be and the way they are surely.
This assessment was impressed by a latest article on Dramface extolling the misplaced wonders of the Cadenheads Creations vary. The message of the article was clear: these beauties had been underappreciated of their time and at the moment are gone eternally… until, in fact, you occur to get fortunate on the secondary market or discover a bottle on a dusty bottle store shelf in an out-of-the-way location.
After studying that, I believed “I really want to try to discover one thing from the Creations collection.” This took me on to the Odd Whisky Coy web site, which I do know is the Australian importer for Cadenheads. It should’ve been my fortunate day as a result of I discovered one selection from the vary nonetheless out there. Earlier than I get to the assessment, let’s examine in with Graham about his background and the state of the whisky business in Australia.
Malt: How did you come to be concerned within the whisky business. Did you get your begin within the UK or right here in Australia? What led to the creation of the Odd Whisky Coy web site?
Graham Wright: I blame it on my dad. He was an outdated navy lad and spirits – particularly rum – was in his blood. However funnily sufficient, as he acquired older, he actually did get a style for single malts. So, I suppose that’s the place I began my curiosity. This could have been the late Nineteen Seventies.
By the early Nineteen Eighties, I used to be with a bunch of pals in Melbourne and every time we had been going to have an enormous bash, it was at all times celebrated with a glass or two of malt. The favorite of this group on the time was Linkwood. Nevertheless, outdated favourites like Glenfarclas, Macallan, Lagavulin and Laphroaig could be purchased out as nicely, particularly if we had interstate guests.
It was on this period that I went to my first malt whisky tasting in Melbourne. What stunned and amused me most was that the opposite tasters at this operate had been quick, stocky males with ruddy faces and large blue noses. Will need to have been a style factor?
However what we didn’t know, was this was the start of the tip of the famed “Scotch and soda” period. Though we beloved the malts, our hearts and pockets had been turning to wine, and the notorious whisky loch in Scotland was getting larger and larger.
So, whereas I used to be swimming in a fairly massive lake of wooded chardonnay, the Scotch business was drowning and undoubtedly not waving. And unbeknown to me, a person (who we will meet just a little afterward) was closing down dozens of distilleries in Scotland. Evil occasions.
The Nineteen Eighties quickly changed into the early Nineteen Nineties and after having a good stint in Outdated Blighty, my accomplice and I (and sure, we’re nonetheless collectively) got here again to the recession “we needed to have.” Worse than that, she was from Adelaide. In order that’s the place we ended up. There have been no jobs, rates of interest had been monumental, however housing was low cost.
After a lot effort, I lastly managed to get a job in a pub drive in and from there joined a really sensible specialist wine chain referred to as Baily & Baily. I used to be in heaven; excessive finish native and imported wines with a small smattering of single malts.
I used to be given the job of managing the whisky portfolio. Unbeknownst to me, Adelaide on the time was the whisky capital of Australia, and Mr Martin Baily let me of my leash. With loads of encouragement and coaching from an enigmatic chap by the identify of Mr David Le Cornu, we slowly constructed Baily & Baily as much as be the largest retailer within the premium spirits market in Australia.
And to assume that our United Distillers reps used to consistently badger us that we solely want their traditional six. A creation of the chap who closed all these distilleries. Even UDV couldn’t promote their new Uncommon Malts vary. So, they gave us a deal. We offered them for $50 a bottle. Didn’t final lengthy.
We (the corporate, that’s) had been additionally early adopters of the net and the internet-based newsletters. I believe solely The Whisky Change was forward of us. The Nicks juggernaut had but to get began. Orders through e mail; who would have thought?
However by the late Nineteen Nineties the tide was turning for the whisky business. It was on the rise. We started instantly importing and tentatively began wholesaling, particularly in Melbourne, particularly with Nicks. Pernod Ricard was one other firm that didn’t know what do with considered one of their new malts, so that they gave us the lot! Aberlour A’Bunadh Batch 6. It didn’t final lengthy.
Instances had been good, gross sales had been sturdy, and – as I boasted to my clients – “we at the moment are within the new ‘Golden Age’ of distilling.” Amazingly, this enthusiasm continues to shine to today.
Then in 2003 all of it got here to an finish. The retailers had been offered to Woolworths. Nicks breathed a sigh of aid.
Malt: I’ve to say, the identify of your web site has at all times stood out for me. “The Odd Whisky Coy;” are you able to clarify that?
Graham Wright: Thanks for the sort phrases. Properly, Odd Whisky comes out of the second part of my boozy profession.
The retailers had been offered, however fortunately sufficient I used to be approached by Oddbins Wine Auctions, with the grandiose title of Auctioneer and Valuer. That went on 14 years.
However what occurred is that Mr Baily adopted me. Together with my then enterprise accomplice, we once more began importing, wholesaling, and retailing malts.cAnd the identify? A tie in with the public sale firm and magnificence we wished for the corporate. Simply plain odd.
It was at the moment that we grew to become brokers – through a vital and nice pal of mine – for an obscure distillery: Springbank Distillers together with their sister firm, Wm Cadenhead, an indie bottler of some notice.
So, to convey you updated: 14 years at Oddbins and The Odd Whisky Coy, after which in 2016, we offered Oddbins and I went alone. All on my own.
Within the latter half of my time at Oddbins, a chap walked into my workplace with a brand new vary of malts. His identify was Mr. Mike Collings, nearer of distilleries, creator of the Traditional Six, UDV exec… and now out on his personal.
Malt: So, into what area of interest does The Odd Whisky Coy match within the Australian whisky market? The location isn’t as complete in inventory as others; what hole available in the market does it fill?
Graham Wright: The unique notion was to solely promote merchandise that nobody else had, therefore our hook-ups with the likes of Blackadder, Gordon Wright’s Alchemist model, Berry Bros. & Rudd, Adelphi, and – within the early days – with Glengoyne. Whereas on the similar time, we had been gray importing some well-known manufacturers that the massive boys on the town weren’t bringing in.
So – very like my mind – our record has at all times been a tad eclectic. However as is the character of competitors and wholesome development within the Australia market, we’ve got to consistently change tack. And don’t neglect, that in this time, the early to mid-2000s, the Australian malt patrons actually detested indie bottlings. Clearly, that has modified now.
Malt: I’ve seen you current Cadenhead’s tastings right here in Melbourne – your ardour for this bottler is obvious. What makes Cadenhead’s particular to you?
Graham Wright: It’s such an excellent story! And with such selection. Fancy having a poet as your chief salesman. After which tragedy of the liquidation and nice public sale within the Nineteen Sixties, solely to be rescued by none aside from the Mr Hedley Wright of JA Mitchell fame. Their malts over my time have actually been a really constant high quality, over all these many years.
Clearly, on account of my superior dotage, I bear in mind the dangerous outdated days when indie bottlers (and so they know who they’re) used to ship garbage to Australia. No marvel, Aussie imbibers averted them just like the plague. However Cadenhead remained persistently good.
Malt: Let’s focus on the Australian whisky business. It’s been unimaginable for a while now to attempt to sustain with every new distillery popping up. What do you see because the strengths within the present scenario and challenges?
Graham Wright: My head spins once I see, not solely the variety of distilleries in operation, but additionally the quantity of these contemplating beginning up a brand new distillery within the none too distant future. All of them have some tough challenges of not solely making it, that’s the simple bit, however – extra importantly to me – promoting it. And in a really crowded market.
Nevertheless it does appear to be a overwhelming majority of them are going to be small, tourist-based operations, very like many wineries. A really small quantity will get very huge, after which there will likely be these within the center. Just like the wine business, it’s this final class that can battle in an overcrowded market.
I could possibly be unsuitable, as is my basic state of affairs, however I believe the marketplace for whisky – particularly single malts – isn’t rising that quick to deal with all these distilleries.
Plus, we should at all times keep in mind that the Australian alcohol market is dominated by two main retailers and getting them to tackle a greater than hundred or so new startups goes to be very tough. Clearly, there will likely be failures.
The strengths will likely be with these that may make a high quality product, at a gorgeous worth together with a degree of distinction. The challenges are quite a few, nevertheless it at all times will get right down to the flexibility to promote your product on a constant foundation, and to construct a following.
Malt: What dram does Graham Wright attain for on a chilly winter’s night? In case you had been caught on a desert island and will take three bottles out of your private assortment, what would you are taking?
Graham Wright: That’s a very robust query for me, as I’m cursed. I simply must attempt one thing new on a regular basis.
However, right here we go…
- Gillies Bottling Bowmore 1964 (I believe) the one which coined the phrase “Black Bowmore”
- Malt Whisky Wholesalers Macallan 1975 25 yr outdated, 1st bottling; fortunately be drowned on this one
- Aberlour A’Bunadh Batch 6, the malt that made my profession
- And if I can indulge one other please? Clynelish 14 yr outdated, my vacation malt.
Due to Graham for taking the time to talk with me. I poured a dram and re-read his responses a couple of occasions. With a younger household holding me housebound most evenings, it’s about as shut as I get lately to a relaxed chat in a low-lit bar!
The Creations collection ran between 2013 to 2019 and featured small batch blends of each grain and malt whisky. There was a most of three casks utilized in every, guaranteeing the outturn of those releases was, certainly, small. The anticipated flavour profile was integrated into the identify of every launch. The ABVs had been decided by style, so weren’t cask power.
The bottle I’m reviewing was launched at the side of Cadenheads 175th anniversary in 2017. I’m pleased to crack the seal on this and dig in; only a few bottles ought to sit on a shelf unopened for 5 years!
Cadenheads Creations 175th 18 Yr Outdated Gentle Creamy Vanilla Mix – Evaluation
That includes whisky distilled in 1998. A vatting of two butts of the blended whisky. 44.6% ABV. Accessible Down Underneath from The Odd Whisky Coy for AUD $149.
Color: Heat honey.
On the nostril: So very clean, but additionally shy (coy?). After reviewing fairly a couple of closely sherried whiskies lately it is a good change. There are gingerbread cookies, icing sugar, and mashed corn. Then additionally honey on toasted buttered crumpets. The grain is ahead within the mix and issues really feel passive. Inexperienced bananas and it’s grassy. Some pineapple simply as I’m about to take my first sip.
Within the mouth: As soon as once more the grain involves the fore, guaranteeing there may be vanilla and – let’s face it – that is gentle and creamy. Instantly a number of the fruits from the nostril such because the pineapple after which mango. I undoubtedly get butterscotch, custard, scented candles and an total nice sweetness. Some maple syrup and a thick slice of pecan pie. The end isn’t notably lengthy, however the sweetness lingers within the mouth.
Conclusions:
That is an eminently drinkable mix that does what’s promised on the label. The Australian worth is about as finest as could be anticipated. This can be a mix to be shared with pals new to whisky and which is able to offend no person. Take pleasure in it within the brilliant sunshine. It’s no masterpiece, however Cadenheads knew what they had been doing.
Rating: 6/10
I’m once more reminded that whisky, at its most interesting, ought to be a social pursuit. The sharing of samples, assembly new pals at a tasting occasion, or in on-line boards. Leaving nice feedback within the part under. After corresponding with Graham for this text I now really feel one other connection to that neighborhood. His web site is under no circumstances Australia’s most complete for inventory, nevertheless it operates in a distinct segment just like these off the crushed path bottle retailers you may likelihood upon: an opportunity to search out barely odd bottles, or ones lengthy since offered out at different retailers.
I assure wherever you might be on the earth, there will likely be the same web site. Go digging.
