This well timed cognac session was impressed by three very latest bottlings that landed on my desk virtually concurrently. First up is a Jean Fillioux N°55/60 launched right this moment by Kirsch Import and the Wu Dram Clan. Subsequent we now have Jean-Luc Pasquet Lot 68-72 chosen by Grape of the Artwork. Thoughts that this marriage accommodates all vintages between 1968 and 1972, blended within the late Nineteen Eighties and divided into separate casks which were handled as single casks since then. The third bottling is Vallein Tercinier Lot 88 bottled by Maltbarn. Excessive class references, proper?
In addition to these (semi-)impartial bottlings we’ll begin with a cognac from Delamain, a home that we haven’t reviewed earlier than. Their oldest releases are united in three collections, outlined in line with the size of ageing: Révélation, Plénitude and Apogée. In the present day we’re attempting the 40 12 months outdated Grande Champagne 1980 classic.
Cognac Delamain 40 yo 1980 – Grande Champagne (42%, OB ‘Assortment Plénitude’ 2020, single cask #212-01, 380 btl.)
Nostril: actually vivid and stylish. There’s a pleasant trace of apricot and contemporary fig, blended with polished wooden and leathery notes. Then it strikes to tobacco leaves with a beneficiant dose of mint and verbena. After some time there’s additionally a woody observe and hints of cocoa.
Mouth: begins with a woody kick (pepper, cinnamon) and extra punch than you’d count on from the modest ABV. Mid-palate it exhibits that very same minty freshness and delightful rancio, mixing with ripe pear and pink grapefruits. Some salted caramel and natural tea in the long run.
End: quite lengthy, with treasured wooden, herbs and hints of walnuts.
Delamain will not be on the radar of impartial bottlers, but it surely appears they’re providing the identical stage of high quality. This 1980 is kind of wonderful, contemporary with a woody kick and fruits on the palate. Costly however top quality. Accessible from The Whisky Alternate for example (additionally as a pattern) or Grasp of Malt.
Cognac Jean Fillioux N°55/60 (45,5%, OB for Kirsch Import & Wu Dram Clan 2022, single cask, 354 btl.)
Nostril: extra expressive straight away, with beehive notes, orange peels and contemporary apricots, in addition to a faint whiff of rose petal / potpourri. A touch of cherry within the background. An excellent mixture of robustness, jammy fruits and floral class.
Mouth: candy and fruity begin, cherries stand out once more, in addition to some oranges, gingerbread and honey. Quinces. Good and jammy, though there’s a bittersweet tangy edge that comes later (two drops of cough syrup?). Cinnamon syrup. Brighter flashes of rancio too. Hints of liquorice and
End: fairly lengthy, nonetheless displaying a damson sweetness, alongside tobacco and candy oak.
A unique model, actually richer and sweeter than the Delamain, with some syrupy hints however by no means cloying. It’ll go on sale right this moment, so you should still have the ability to safe a bottle someplace. Rating: 90/100
Cognac Vallein Tercinier 33 yo Lot 88 – Bons Bois (55%, Maltbarn 2022, 142 btl.)
Nostril: we’re again to a extra delicate model, one that’s barely dusty and oily even. Mirabelles and lemony notes (principally peels), but in addition plain oak and hints of almonds. Hints of ginger / ginseng. Good, however I’m not getting the everyday (tropical) home model right here.
Mouth: lemon peels once more, in addition to unripe pear, some melon (pores and skin) and natural honey. One thing oily once more (not fairly the feel, however the automotive workshop aspect, if that is sensible). Rising hints of natural teas, chamomile and ginger. (Wal)nuts and refined resinous notes too.
End: fairly lengthy, fairly resinous. Dried Mediterranean herbs shining via.
Fascinating cognac, Bons Bois can go in numerous instructions in my view. Actually this does fall between stools, making it laborious to categorise (and rating). It doesn’t actually stand out on this session although. Rating: 86/100
Cognac Jean-Luc Pasquet Lot 68-72 – Fins Bois (66,6%, Grape of the Artwork 2022, single cask #21, 276 btl.)
Nostril: very forthcoming, with truckloads of treasured woods and waxed furnishings. Even wax candles and a lightweight trace of glue or diesel. Water helps to open it up and reveal croissants, natural tea, mint and cinnamon pastry. Some brown sugar and After Eight beneath.
Mouth: properly oily however at full power I principally get the wooden (cedar), alongside mirabelles and plum eau-de-vie. When barely diluted it’s nonetheless fairly spicy (ginger, pepper) but it surely additionally begins to indicate some mango and molasses. Closely infused tea and woody tannins keep sturdy.
End: lengthy, spicy and drying, with a really leathery, tannic edge.
Actually good, offered you’re prepared to mess around with water virtually immediately. Even then it by no means manages to make the wooden go away middle stage. At instances it even felt like a crossover between a heavy model rum (Fourquare, let’s say) and cognac. A daring alternative. Rating: 88/100
