The traditional capital of Islamic Spain was at its peak in the course of the ninth and tenth centuries, and Córdoba nonetheless displays its roots in Moorish, Jewish and Christian traditions, structure and delicacies. The Mezquita (or Nice Mosque) is a panoramic expertise, one of many grandest and finest preserved of its kind on the planet, regardless of the constructing of a Christian cathedral inside its inside. Across the Mezquita, you’ll be able to discover the slender winding streets of the outdated Jewish quarter and the town wall, the Alcázar of the Christian Kings, and the Roman Bridge. If in case you have time, the palace metropolis complicated of Medina Azahara, simply outdoors the town, can be value a go to.
The very best instances to go to are spring and autumn, because the scorching warmth of summer season is usually too intense for being out and about. Could is the month of three of the town’s most necessary festivals: the Cruces de Mayo; the well-known Patio Competition, when many personal courtyards are open to the general public and the town is a riot of vibrant blooms; and the Córdoba Truthful on the finish of the month, an opportunity to drink and dance the day and/or evening away in air-conditioned casetas (pageant tents). Throughout the remainder of the 12 months, you’ll be able to go to the Patio Museum on the Palacio de Viana, an exquisite assortment of 12 patios with formal gardens in addition to artwork and vintage collections.
When it’s time to cease and eat, make sure you strive Córdoba’s culinary triumvirate of salmorejo (a wealthy chilly tomato soup typically topped with chopped egg and jamón), fried breaded aubergines (typically served with cane molasses) and flamenquín (rolled pork and serrano ham, breaded and deep-fried). Different specialities embrace japuta en adobo (fried marinated sea bream) and rabo de toro (braised oxtail).
Credit score: Maggie Nelson
Córdoba bars & eating places
Bodega San Basilio
San Basilio, 29
There’s no higher place to strive Córdoba’s tasty ‘holy trinity’ of salmorejo, fried aubergines and flamenquín. This cosy family-run bar, together with its bigger Mesón San Basilio across the nook, has been a neighbourhood favorite because it opened in 1994. Different conventional dishes embrace torreznos (crispy pork scratchings) and orange and salt-cod salad, which can sound odd however is surprisingly scrumptious. Anticipate pleasant service and traditional ambiente taurino (bullfighting ambiance) at each areas. fb.com/Mesonsanbasilio
Bar Santos
Magistral González Francés, 3
Bar Santos’ big tortilla. Credit score: Agefotostock / Alamy Inventory Photograph
This tiny no-frills bar reverse the Mezquita is known for its huge tortilla de patatas made with 5kg of potatoes and 30 eggs. Order a slice with an ice-cold caña (small glass of beer) and luxuriate in all of it outdoor, sitting on the ledge under the Mezquita wall whereas watching the world go by. Different conventional tapas are additionally accessible, but it surely’s the placement – and the tortillas – that make this pleasant little bar virtually as huge an attraction because the Mezquita itself.
Garum 2.1
San Fernando, 120-122
Named after the Roman fermented fish sauce, Garum 2.1 specialises in conventional Andalucían tapas with Moorish influences however, because the ‘2.1’ suggests, there are additionally trendy touches that make its dishes deliciously totally different. It’s within the coronary heart of the outdated metropolis and the inside has an genuine, vintage really feel with an authentic uncovered Moorish brick wall behind the eating space, complemented by a contemporary bar and a nice rooftop terrace.
Choco
Compositor Serrano Lucena, 14
Choco is prime chef Kisko García’s one-star Michelin restaurant, devoted to preserving the traditions of Andalucían delicacies of their many guises whereas bringing them updated with trendy methods and concepts. This dedication to excellence implies that top-quality elements (regionally sourced wherever doable) are ready and served with creativeness and a spotlight to element. You can even strive Kisko’s extra informal Choco Bar subsequent door.
El Churrasco
Romero, 16
Based greater than 50 years in the past in a small inn in Córdoba’s Jewish quarter, El Churrasco has grown to incorporate greater than a dozen themed eating rooms, from a standard cordobés patio to extra trendy settings, in addition to a bespoke bodega for tastings. The delicacies has expanded too, however the authentic churrasqueadas (top- high quality meats grilled over charcoal) are nonetheless the speciality of the home. There’s additionally a comfy bar for pre-dinner drinks or tapas grazing, with a powerful show of prime cuts awaiting their flip within the kitchen.
La Cuchara de San Lorenzo
Arroyo de San Lorenzo, 2
Based by brothers Narciso and Paco López in 2006, La Cuchara – within the historic neighbourhood of San Lorenzo – has gone from power to power within the improvement of its menus whereas remaining true to its Andalucían origins. Small however elegant, with an ample terrace, it serves nice meals at affordable costs, and the workers are pleasant and environment friendly. A bit off the overwhelmed observe, however value making the hassle.
Casa Pepe de la Judería
Romero, 1
Not removed from the Mezquita and a brief stroll into the outdated Jewish quarter, Casa Pepe not too long ago handed its centenary. Over time it has expanded right into a maze of eating rooms with a rooftop terrace round and above its authentic rustic central patio, however the delicacies continues to be very a lot conventional cordobés. Should you’re on the lookout for a style of old- college Córdoba, that is the place to return.
Jugo Vinos Vivos
Plaza San Andrés, 5
Córdoba’s first wine bar devoted solely to pure wines, Jugo Vinos Vivos opened its doorways in 2017 and is run by American Gabrielle Mangeri and her cordobés husband Javier Orcaray. Lots of the (largely Spanish) wines can be found by the glass with a range from Montilla winemaker José Miguel Márquez prominently featured. The small menu adjustments frequently, with the emphasis on small-production raw-milk cheeses, artisanal breads, conserves, smoked fish, cured meats and olives. Wine tastings and cookery lessons can be found on request. @quierojugovivo
Noor
Pablo Ruiz Picasso, 8
Style the historical past of Al-Andalus at Noor, opened in 2016 by cordobés chef Paco Morales. For his first season he explored the tenth century, utilizing solely elements that have been accessible at the moment. With the assistance of documentarians, historians, archaeologists and designers, Morales has instructed the culinary story of the instances with talent and creativeness, incomes him two well-deserved Michelin stars. Every season, he has moved up a century (together with a retrospective in his fourth 12 months). Season 2022 discovered Noor within the late sixteenth century and, for the primary time, New World comestibles have been launched into the repertoire. There are three tasting menus, with the choice of the ‘armonía de vinos’ wine match chosen and served by sommelier Pilar Vidal. An unforgettable expertise.
La Casa del Pedro Ximénez
Corregidor Luis de la Cerda, 75
A stone’s throw from the Mezquita, this can be a nice little store by which to broaden your information of the area’s wines – with the bonus of taking dwelling a few of your scrumptious Córdoba experiences. Except for a variety of Montilla-Moriles wines, additionally, you will discover an array of native artisanal merchandise together with brandy and vermouth, olive oil, vinegars, jams, marmalades and candies.
Regadera
Ronda de Isasa, 10
Adrián Caballero
Situated on the fringe of Córdoba’s outdated centre, simply throughout from the Roman Bridge, Regadera serves a few of the finest meals on the town in an elegant trendy house with an open kitchen. Native chef Adrián Caballero’s meals is upmarket with out being pretentious – anticipate a mixture of conventional and trendy dishes starting from suckling pig and beef tartare to cod and sea bass ceviche, executed with modern twists and a spotlight to high quality and element. Glorious wine checklist and cocktails, too.
Should-see: Montilla-Moriles
A brief drive south of the town is the winemaking DO of Montilla-Moriles, an ideal day-trip vacation spot from Córdoba. Typically thought-about ‘cousins’ to Sherry, these complicated wines have as many variations as similarities.
Three primary varieties are produced within the space: younger and aged whites; ‘generosos’, which endure both organic or oxidative ageing within the conventional ‘criadera y solera’ system of fractional mixing and barrel- maturation, however will not be fortified; and candy wines. The bulk are constituted of the area’s star grape Pedro Ximénez, which has led to the DO now adopting a promotional tag as The PXperts.
Enotourism has been rising within the space and visits in English are supplied by bodegas similar to Toro Albalá (which is celebrating its centenary in 2022), Alvear and
Pérez Barquero. For an unique vineyard expertise, contact Rosa Lara at Simply Discover to arrange a personal getaway.
Whereas in Montilla, make sure you find time for lunch or dinner at Taberna Bolero. Proprietor Carlos García Santiago has been operating this charming third-generation restaurant for the previous 15 years. An knowledgeable in regional wines, García is at all times completely satisfied to suggest pairings for his traditional-with-a-twist dishes. Don’t miss the mazamorra cordobesa (chilly almond soup) with melon and amontillado.
