“If the time period was used accurately in recognition of earlier accomplishments I wouldn’t thoughts it. It’s an honor to be referred to as a Grasp Distiller, however I feel it ought to be earned.” – Jim Rutledge
Jim Rutledge is a Grasp Distiller. At the moment of us ought to be conversant in the oft-cited notion that “phrases matter” and it’s within the spirit of that perception that we must always start this assessment on this approach. Jim’s expertise within the spirits enterprise dates again to November 1966, when he obtained his first job out of faculty working within the analysis and growth plant for Seagram’s Calvert Distillery in Louisville, Kentucky. Throughout his time at Seagram, Jim labored in nearly each conceivable space of manufacturing and he would go on to develop into the pinnacle of Industrial Engineering and Budgets up till 1975. The most effective, nonetheless, was but to return.
That yr the higher-ups at Seagram rewarded Jim’s burgeoning success with a brand new problem: to go away Kentucky and be a part of them at their New York headquarters as Chief Industrial Engineer for Seagram’s U.S. distilleries. Earlier than lengthy Jim took over long-range distillery planning and budgeting requirements for all of Seagram’s U.S. distilleries, and he did so at a vital time.
By the late 70s and 80s bourbon’s recognition had taken a serious hit and the entire largest distillery operations realized that that they had much more whiskey than that they had shoppers to promote it to. So, in 1988 Jim made the choice to unload sure model names, like Eagle Uncommon and Henry McKenna, and deal with the one place on this planet the place the demand for bourbon was really rising at the moment: Japan.
Now, with a deal with the 4 Roses model – which had steadily seen elevated curiosity within the Japanese market – the story of Jim Rutledge as most bourbon followers realize it begins to select up steam. All of the whereas he was in New York, Jim was persistent in making point out of the truth that he longed to return to distillery operations the place he obtained his begin. Lastly, in 1992 his want was granted and he was transferred again to Kentucky to work within the warehousing heart in Cox Creek the place he turned an administrator and forecaster earlier than ultimately getting into the function of 4 Roses Grasp Distiller in 1994.
From there, Jim toiled tirelessly over the course of numerous 16-hour work days to enhance the standard of the distillate being produced at 4 Roses. He succeeded in that process in a number of quick months after which turned his sights towards ceasing the manufacturing of inferior blended whiskey and bringing 4 Roses bourbon again to the U.S. market the place it hadn’t been bought for the reason that late Fifties. In 2002 – one yr after being inducted into the inaugural class of the Kentucky Bourbon Corridor of Fame – he succeeded at this as properly, and he went on to show 4 Roses into some of the venerable bourbon distilleries Kentucky has ever seen.
After retiring in 2015 from 4 Roses, Jim may have opted to spend all of his time tending to the standard duties of a current retiree. He may have chosen to grace golf programs throughout America along with his unbelievable tales, and even traveled the world as he previously did as an envoy for 4 Roses, jet setting from nation to nation on an countless highway of exploration. What Jim opted for as an alternative makes much more sense for a person who spent practically 50 years leaving an indelible mark on the whiskey business. Jim Rutledge determined to be a Grasp Distiller.
“There’s nothing that I may try this I like greater than being in a distillery.” – Jim Rutledge
He started contract distilling at Fortress & Key whereas on the identical time launching the J.W. Rutledge Distillery (named, in fact, after the business legend himself) for the aim of manufacturing whiskey beneath his new enterprise: Cream of Kentucky. Cream of Kentucky is a heritage model which traces its historical past again to March 10, 1891, when it was first trademarked by the Edel Bros. as “Kentucky Cream Pure Rye Whisky.”
In keeping with whiskey historian Michael R. Veach, the Edel Bros. had been rectifiers who sadly noticed their model exit of enterprise within the early twentieth century. The model was subsequently acquired by the Geo. T. Stagg Distillery earlier than then changing into a Shenley model after they bought the Geo. T. Stagg Distillery throughout Prohibition.
Shenley would ultimately discontinue Cream of Kentucky within the Nineteen Eighties and the inventory of barrels that supported the model was bought. Their bourbon barrels went on for use in manufacturers like Previous Constitution and I.W. Harper, and notably a few of their rye would go in the direction of early bottlings of Van Winkle Household Reserve Rye. Additionally they went into the now well-known Willett single barrel bottlings of Purple Hook Rye chosen by LeNell Camacho Santa Ana for her eponymous retailer in Brooklyn, which closed in early 2009.
As you possibly can see, the historical past of the Cream of Kentucky model is located on the nexus of a number of iconic American whiskey figures and expressions. As soon as revived by Stephen Camisa together with Jim Rutledge and their associate Jon Mowry in 2018, the model formally went to market in 2019.
The primary expression I might be reviewing as we speak is from the Cream of Kentucky model and, true to the unique trademark, this one is a rye (although Jim Rutledge doesn’t consider any straight rye was really bought beneath the “Cream of Kentucky” title). The primary rye to be bottled beneath the revived Cream of Kentucky model is NAS (confirmed to be six years outdated) and Bottled-in-Bond, making it 100 proof or 50% ABV. The steered retail value is $70.
A couple of extra pertinent particulars embrace that this mix consists of 70 barrels of 100% Rymin rye that was property grown, distilled, aged, and bottled at Kentucky Artisan Distillery. Additionally of notice is the truth that previous to this expression, Jim Rutledge had by no means produced a single rye or perhaps a bottled in bond whiskey in his complete illustrious profession. When requested about that truth, Jim knowledgeable me that regardless of this he did the truth is have some expertise in producing a rye whiskey for Seagram. Nevertheless, that rye whiskey was solely supposed to be a small share in Seagram’s blended whiskey expressions, together with Seagram’s 7 Crown Whiskey.
I’m excited as it’s to strive the primary rye ever produced by Jim Rutledge however when it was steered that I evaluate this inaugural rye launch with the J.W. Rutledge Distillery’s second rye launch, Excessive Plains Rye, I leapt on the alternative. Excessive Plains Rye is an expression I’ve lengthy had my eye on, because it’s a mix of 5 completely different rye whiskeys from 4 completely different states. Nevertheless, earlier than we get into that, let’s give the Cream of Kentucky Bottled in Bond Rye a strive we could?
Cream of Kentucky Bottled in Bond Rye – Assessment
Shade: Darkish gold with orange glints.
On the nostril: Freshly baked bread and honeycomb wafts out of the glass at first, together with kola nut and overripe strawberries. After a fast swirl I start to select up dill weed, spearmint, and mineral water, together with sawdust and a few faint cayenne pepper. Lastly there’s a touch of Golden Scrumptious apple pores and skin and even some leather-based. The aromas are mild and alluring with out ever veering too far in anyone course, save for the cereal-forward breadiness and honeycomb notes that are the celebrities of the present.
Within the mouth: Right here on the palate the honey-drizzled Golden Scrumptious apples, dill weed, and cereal-forward notes function prominently. After I say “cereal-forward” I’m considering of complete grain oats and cornstarch such as you may discover in your bowl at breakfast. There’s a little bit of faint cayenne that offers method to a dried-strawberry-and-raisin notice at midpalate earlier than freshly cracked black pepper emerges on the again finish of every sip. The general mouthfeel is silky with out being too viscous. I quite get pleasure from that the end has a delicate infusion of spice that blends harmoniously with a long-lasting honeycomb taste, which is my choice (talking as somebody with a candy tooth). Nevertheless, with repeat sips the spice intensifies as if one forgot to inform the waiter “when” two shakes in the past.
Conclusions:
The nostril was very distinctive for a rye and completely rewarded me for the ten minutes I spent sitting with it earlier than giving it a style. On the palate I discovered that the notes I loved from the nostril carry over in a giant approach on the entrance finish of every sip. Nevertheless, the entrance finish and mid palate expertise modifications instructions on the end, the place solely the honey and raisin notes stay whereas star anise and black pepper more and more supplant their sweetness. It has a pleasant medium end, however one which veers too closely into spice territory for my palate. When contemplating that it has a powerful depth and complexity plus a good value together with every little thing else above, I’m pleased awarding this a ranking commensurate with “Good” in Malt’s scoring system as a result of I actually assume it’s price a purchase.
Rating: 5/10
Subsequent up we’ve Jim Rutledge’s second foray into the world of rye for the J.W. Rutledge Distillery: Excessive Plains Rye. The sources that contributed to this mix are Kentucky Artisan Distillery in Kentucky, Center West Distillery in Ohio, MGP Distillery in Indiana, and New York Distilling Firm in New York.
Apparently, after I requested Jim a couple of potential batch 2 of Excessive Plains Rye he knowledgeable me that although they might have cherished to proceed this association, a number of of the distilleries they sourced from for the primary batch now not have sufficient distillate to promote. Due to this, any future batches of Excessive Plains Rye will seemingly be supported by a unique group of distilleries. For me, that simply provides to the intrigue, as the flavour profile continues to evolve over time with every mix.
Lastly, for the specifics about Excessive Plains Rye: it’s bottled at 97 proof (48.5% ABV) and it additionally has no age assertion, although the entire whiskeys within the mix are at the least 4 years outdated. It carries a steered retail value of $55.
Excessive Plains Rye – Assessment
Shade: Golden amber.
On the nostril: It begins a bit mellow earlier than blossoming with notes of wealthy caramel, milk chocolate, and candy mint. In time it develops right into a kind of mint chocolate chip ice cream and the spice cupboard flies open with notes of thyme, floor sage, and nutmeg. Sprouting beneath all of it are hints of lemongrass, inexperienced tea with contemporary lemon, and a barely floral notice. All in all this nostril is extra my pace and as I used to be going for my first sip I even picked out a little bit of grilled apricot which was a enjoyable final second shock.
Within the mouth: Lemon tea cake with semi-sweet milk chocolate, and mint make an preliminary impression. Quickly after that I start selecting up white pepper, and a little bit of honey-drizzled phyllo dough that sticks to the roof of my mouth. In distinction to Cream of Kentucky this rye has a gentle begin that enables loads of runway for the well-balanced candy notes to bloom. It isn’t as mouth coating or as spice-heavy on the end however it does function a mild ascent of taste that concludes in a satisfying, although noticeably mellow, climax. In time, like its predecessor, the spice does decide up however it by no means turns into overwhelming and it’s joined in live performance with the grilled apricot from the nostril which – although moreover candy – does a superb job of slicing by way of the extra desert-like notes.
Conclusions:
Whereas this array of flavors is extra to my liking it is usually notably much less viscous and sophisticated than Cream of Kentucky – owing, partly I’m certain, to the actual fact it’s two years youthful. For me, this isn’t a wholly unhealthy factor as the entire candy flavors are well-balanced and the marginally decrease proof and mellow end make it extra fulfilling to return to for repeat sips.
Moreover, the value and total taste profile are each extra approachable. It could not show the “artist’s contact” fairly a lot as Cream of Kentucky, however it succeeds in what I consider it units out to do – being a crowd pleaser – whereas nonetheless exhibiting telltale indicators of Jim Rutledge’s grasp craftsmanship in deftly mixing 5 completely different whiskeys collectively. It’s tough for me to say that is “higher” than Cream of Kentucky as a result of they obtain completely different goals, however for its lower cost and the extra restrained spice being aligned with my style, I’m snug ranking this “Nice” in accordance with Malt’s scoring system.
Rating: 6/10
Remaining Ideas
Whereas I feel Excessive Plains Rye is the extra approachable pour of the 2, I’ve little question that Cream of Kentucky deserves a large viewers. As somebody with a choice for bourbon over rye, I’ve said many instances that candy flavors simply seize my coronary heart. Nevertheless if heavy spice is extra to your liking, then Cream of Kentucky will doubtlessly impress you.
At any charge, each of those whiskeys have confirmed one thing to me that Jim Rutledge has confirmed to the world over for practically three many years: being a grasp distiller is a distinction to be earned. By embracing an unusual rye selection in a single expression and expertly pulling collectively 5 disparate distillates within the second, Jim’s mastery of his craft is clear in each expressions. I’d prefer to thank Jim Rutledge and Stephen Camisa for taking the time to talk with me, present among the promotional materials above, and share these two bottles of their whiskey.
Lastly I encourage you, expensive reader, not simply to strive one or the opposite primarily based in your choice for both sweetness or spice. As an alternative, I encourage you to take an opportunity and check out each. I feel it provides you with a higher appreciation for the nuances that make up your private preferences and show that selecting the “finest” whiskey just isn’t all the time as straightforward because it appears.
Bottles supplied freed from cost by J.W. Rutledge Distillery, which doesn’t have an effect on our notes or scores.
