Tuesday, July 12, 2022
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Drinks Atlas: Lengthy Island, New York


Stretching greater than 100 miles eastward into the Atlantic Ocean, Lengthy Island, New York, could also be greatest recognized for its scenic bays and seashores and the tony neighborhoods of the Hamptons. However with sandy soils and a temperate, maritime local weather much like that of Bordeaux, it’s an space ripe for the manufacturing of basic wine varietals. And although the West Coast or New York neighbors just like the Finger Lakes should maintain the lion’s share of consideration in the case of American wine, Lengthy Island’s comparatively younger wine area is lastly coming into its personal. “It’s nonetheless ignored, however much less so than it has been,” says Lenn Thompson, Lengthy Island–primarily based wine author and founding father of The Cork Report. “Individuals who care about wine within the tri-state space know that there are good-to-great wines being made on Lengthy Island now.”

With vineyards solely first established within the Seventies, Lengthy Island should be in its vinous infancy. However up to now half century, the area has grown to incorporate about 50 producers and upward of 2,000 acres of vineyards the place greater than 6,000 tons of grapes are harvested yearly. The fashion of wine being produced has additionally seen a marked evolution, significantly over the past decade. “Essentially the most necessary change in Lengthy Island wine up to now 5 to 10 years has been a transfer away from extreme extraction and extreme new oak in favor of letting the distinctiveness of Lengthy Island terroir shine by,” says Thompson, pointing to inherent qualities of the wines that are actually being highlighted. “They’re food-friendly due to their medium-bodied nature and recent, pure acidity.”

Whereas the area has lengthy been related to Bordeaux-style blends, winemakers are more and more exploring past Meritage wines. “There was a push for elevated range in grapes grown and wine kinds produced. Merlot and Chardonnay are nonetheless the most-planted grapes, however issues like Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc have earned extra consideration,” says Thompson. “Grapes like Chenin Blanc and Albariño are displaying promise, and there are folks working with issues like Vermentino, Melon de Bourgogne, Verdejo, Lagrein, and others. Lengthy Island wines are now not poor facsimiles of wines from the West Coast or from Europe. They will solely be grown and made right here, they usually replicate that.”

4 Wineries to Discover

Bedell Cellars

Based in 1980 in Cutchogue, Bedell Cellars has lengthy been one of the island’s extremely regarded producers. “Winemaker Wealthy Olsen-Harbich actually wrote the AVAs for the area and has been making wine right here as lengthy as anybody,” says Thompson. “He was a pioneer in utilizing ambient yeasts and making unoaked Cabernet Franc, and he nonetheless continues to experiment with new-to-the-region varieties like Melon and Albariño.” bedellcellars.com

Paumanok Vineyards

Farming 86 acres in Aquebogue, Paumanok Vineyards makes a spread of kinds from their estate-grown grapes and has been totally solar-powered since 2017. “The present winemaker, Kareem Massoud, is the second-generation winemaker, taking over for his father quite a few years in the past,” Thompson says. “He’s making among the most age-worthy wines within the area and his comparatively new ‘minimalist’ line of wines (low-intervention) are among the wines I’m most enthusiastic about right here.” paumanok.com

Lenz Vineyard

One of many founding wineries of the North Fork, Lenz was established in 1978 and strives for traditional fashion representations made with their estate-grown grapes. “Bordeaux varieties dominate right here together with Chardonnay, although new winemaker Thomas Spotteck (who took over from longtime winemaker Eric Fry in 2017) has added a brand new rosé and Sauvignon Blanc to the lineup,” says Thompson. The vineyard additionally gives vertical tastings from their in depth “Lenz Library” of vintages. lenzwine.com

Macari Vineyards

The Macari household has owned their 500-acre farm on the Nice Peconic Bay for greater than 50 years, following biodynamic practices from the primary winery plantings in 1995. The vineyard crafts each conventional blends and single varietal bottlings, together with extra experimental choices like a glowing, skin-contact Petit Verdot. “They’re utilizing concrete eggs for sure wines now,” says Thompson. “I’m significantly keen on the Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc made in them—their ‘Lifeforce’ label.” macariwines.com



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