The Mediterranean’s largest island and house to necessary archeological websites, the world’s finest capers, and the mythic Mount Etna, Sicily can be an historic viticultural area with renewed promise. From its delicacies to its architectural influences, almost each side of Sicilian tradition weaves nuanced tales of the island’s complicated historical past. Resulting from Sicily’s strategic location, the island was the topic of repeated conquests because it was first inhabited 10,000 years in the past by three peoples, together with the Siculi, from whom its identify was derived. Thanks to viticultural practices developed beneath the Phoenicians and cemented by the Greeks as early because the eighth century BCE, Sicilian wines have been among the many finest identified and beloved in antiquity.
Regardless of this winemaking legacy, Sicily later slid into service as one among Italy’s bulk wine facilities, focused on elevated yields and bottling lower than 20 % of its personal manufacturing. Towards the top of the twentieth century, nevertheless, producers started to embrace distinctly Sicilian wines and rally round their safety. “That transition has taken a long time, however I believe it’s simply reaching extra crucial mass,” says Dan Gold, who, together with spouse and accomplice, Elise Gold (née Lentine), owns Portland, Oregon–based mostly Sicilian deli Sebastiano’s, the enterprise impressed by a visit to Elise’s ancestral hometown, Castellammare del Golfo. Key to this turnaround have been each the restoration of Marsala, the native fortified wine, and the work of Diego Planeta, who inspired better variety in winery plantings (some 150 varieties at the moment are grown) and whose eponymous vineyard sought to revive Sicilian wines of high quality.
The renewed pursuit of homegrown wines has sparked an trade resurgence. “The range of winemaking occurring there’s actually thrilling,” Dan says. Sicily’s 23 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC) and one DOCG are being reimagined by a brand new period of torch-bearing producers, together with Vittoria-based Arianna Occhipinti and Frank Cornelissen’s Etna property, who’re drawing consideration to the island whereas highlighting outstanding indigenous grape varieties, reminiscent of Nero d’Avola, Frappato, Carricante, and Catarratto. “I believe it’s the standard, the thrill issue, and the distinctiveness of those indigenous varieties that truthfully haven’t actually had the highlight,” says Gold.
5 to Strive
Nero d’Avola “Lagnusa” Feudo Montoni 2019 From historic Nero d’Avola producer Feudo Montoni, this natural bottling is made from 35-year-old vines and aged primarily in cement. The ultimate product balances mineral notes with flavors of cherry and herbs. “We love introducing individuals to Nero d’Avola, particularly when it’s from a high-quality property with distinctive terroir like Feudo Montoni.” $20.99/750 ml, astorwines.com
Passito de Pantelleria “Ben Ryé,” Donnafugata 2018 From the volcanic island of Pantelleria, this amber-color wine is produced within the passito, or dried-grape, type. “We predict this dessert wine made out of sun-dried Zibibbo grown on Pantelleria is actually world-class,” say the Golds. “There isn’t a extra scrumptious pairing for cuccidati, pasticcini di mandorle, and different Sicilian cookies.” $46.99/375 ml, astorwines.com
Calogero Caruana “Vino Bianco” 2019 From “an up-and-coming pure winemaker working with native Inzolia grapes and spontaneous native yeast fermentation,” this Vino Bianco combines a mix of younger winery manufacturing and vinification from 50-year-old vines. “Calogero makes use of historic strategies like extended maceration with skins and stems, and getting old in casks with flor to make one-of-a-kind wines.” $32.99/750 ml, linerandelsen.com
Palmento Costanzo “Mofete” Etna Rosso 2018 Utilizing vineyards ranging from 5 to 30 years in age for their “Mofete” Etna Rosso, winemaker Mimmo Costanzo and his spouse, Valeria, work on Etna’s northern slopes. “We love the minerality, steadiness, acidity, and expression of the 80 % Nerello Mascalese and 20 % Nerello Cappuccio.” $31.90/750 ml, la.eatalyvino.com
Due Terre Catarratto “Actually, we like each wine we’ve tried from Due Terre,” say the Golds. A collaborative undertaking from buddies, the label produces solely pure, indigenous varietals—together with Grillo, Frappato, Nerello Mascalese, and extra—sourced from round Mount Bonifato close to Trapani, and made with minimal intervention. The crisp Catarratto yields tropical expressions of coconut and pineapple. See dueterrewines.com for distribution.
