On a busy road in Paris’s eighth Arrondisement, you’ll discover the official headquarters of Armagnac Castarede, the oldest Armagnac producer nonetheless working. On the finish of my current Cognac-focused journey to France, I referred to as up the workplace on a lark, solely to search out that proprietor Florence Castarede was truly on website and would readily welcome me in that very afternoon.
Castarede’s location is an element company HQ, half tasting room, half retail store. Any expression you possibly can ask for is on the market right here, with classic choices courting again to the Nineteen Sixties.
The store is tiny — because it solely sells Castarede merchandise — and Florence took me right down to the basement for our tasting and a refresher on what makes Armagnac totally different from Cognac. The first distinction (and the best-known one) is the kind of stills used; Cognac makes use of pot stills, Armagnac column stills. Castarede’s nonetheless was put into manufacturing in 1923, the one main distinction at present being that it’s now heated by fuel as a substitute of wooden.
One other key distinction is that whereas Cognac is sort of all the time blended, many Armagnacs can be found as a single classic product. However what I discovered from Florence is that, not like most spirits, classic Armagnac stays within the barrel and is bottled nearly on demand. When Florence runs out of 1975 Castarede at her store (or if an order from a retailer or distributor is available in), she calls the distillery and tells them to tug a number of extra bottles from the casks. That is essential, as a result of it implies that a 1975 Castarede bought at present will possible be a lot totally different than the identical classic bought even a number of years in the past. In a number of extra years, the 1975 will style totally different nonetheless.
Florence says that fifty to 60 years is in regards to the most period of time she’ll go away an Armagnac in barrel earlier than it begins to get overly woody. At that time, the liquid is positioned into glass demijohns, the place it’s much less inclined to vary — however Florence notes that she does see them persevering with to evolve a bit even on this setting. The oldest Armagnac Castarede has nonetheless in barrel is from 1962 (which is reviewed under); the oldest in demijohn is from classic 1893.
With that as prologue, let’s dive right into a tasting. Up prime I’ve temporary notes from my on-site tasting; extra detailed ideas primarily based on bottles I bought and introduced dwelling observe under.
All expressions are 80 proof.
Armagnac Castarede Blanche (2023) – Unaged Armagnac. I preferred this rather more than once I first had it in 2021, and we are able to’t blame that on the barrel, in fact. Funky however floral, I discovered the expertise akin to an unaged rum, a bit doughy however with a vivid, refreshing end. Undoubtedly extra participating than my earlier encounter. A- / $42
Armagnac Castarede VS (2023) – At the least 3 years outdated (2 years is the minimal commonplace for VS). Crisp and chic, with plenty of fruit earlier than fading right into a petrol-driven character; that is strictly designed for cooking and cocktailing, as its pungency could be a bit pressing by itself. B / $42
Armagnac Castarede VSOP (2023) – Round 6 years outdated at current; this modestly aged expression exhibits off a darker, richer fruit character and a extra well-rounded physique. Nonetheless maturing, to make certain, however completely approachable as a solo sipper at this level. A- / $53 [BUY IT NOW FROM THE WHISKY EXCHANGE]
Armagnac Castarede Hors d’Age (2023) – This expression lately changed the Reserve de la Famille bottling, which was an overproof model of this mix of not less than 20-year-old brandies. It’s clearly one of many go-to bottlings from the distillery, providing a sweeter however much less fruity expertise that makes room for extra complexity within the type of nutty almonds, mint, and licorice notes. Nonetheless laborious to search out within the U.S. A- / $73
Armagnac Castarede 1992 Classic (2023) – All the classic samples under spent about 30 years in barrel, says Florence, making these extra attention-grabbing as a vertical expertise. This 1992 is tender and floral, with a punch of licorice and slight tannins. B+ / $101
Armagnac Castarede 1982 Classic (2023) – Spicier than the 1992, with a toasty, malty character to it. Extra wooden within the combine however removed from hoary. B+ / $128
Armagnac Castarede 1972 Classic (2023) – Weighty with spices, particularly cloves. Pruny fruit is dominant, adopted by a robust, enduring floral character. My favourite of this classic lineup. A- / $185
Armagnac Castarede 1962 Classic (2023) – Surprisingly tame: Linens and prunes lead the cost, however the end has greater than a little bit of tannin to it, actually gripping the again of the throat. B+ / $258
The next evaluations had been accomplished at dwelling, primarily based on retail purchases.
Armagnac Castarede 20 dans d’age (2023) – The subsequent three evaluations are primarily based on a miniature field set supplied by Castarede, showcasing blends at 20, 30, and 40 years in barrel, offering a unique method to do a vertical tasting expertise ($117 for a set of three 100ml bottles). Fruity, apple-heavy nostril, with lacings of orange blossoms. An initially immersive palate dries up shortly, resulting in a end that feels barely leathery. Nonetheless, for a vivid, shining second it’s a dazzler. B+
Armagnac Castarede 30 dans d’age (2023) – Rather more full of life on nostril and palate, with notes of prune, incense, and a barely beefy high quality lingering beneath. Toasty oak works effectively on the palate right here, integrating with the fruit to infuse it with a wealthy vanilla observe, although the end is sharp and barely acidic. For my cash, it’s the very best Armagnac on this trio. A
Armagnac Castarede 40 dans d’age (2023) – Whereas the nostril feels just a little brooding, the palate is surprisingly restrained in the case of wooden. There’s nonetheless loads of fruit right here, showcased extra as fruit leather-based, raisin, and incense-heavy florals. This brandy comes off as nearer to Cognac than the rest on this assessment, although the end retains the pedal down on these traditional notes of spiced fruit and fragrance, layered on prime of raisin bread. A detailed second to the 30 12 months outdated. A
Armagnac Castarede 1971 Classic (2023) – Bottled in 2021, making this a 50 12 months outdated classic. I purchased this to rejoice the beginning 12 months of each my spouse and I, and it’s proving itself a beautiful bottle to rejoice every passing birthday. Sweeter than the rest on this web page, the brandy takes a lush character of plum, raisin, and strawberry notes, folding in an aggressive punch of baking spice, plenty of vanilla, and milk chocolate. Loads of oak hangs round all through, the end seeing a little bit of gritty tannin lingering, although it’s by no means off-putting or tough. For 50 years of age, this nonetheless feels prefer it has loads of runway left. A- / $218
If you happen to go:
140 Bd Haussmann, 75008 Paris, France
Open enterprise hours, Monday to Friday. No appointment required to buy, however advisable if you wish to style. Contact data is on the market on Castarede’s web site.
Armagnac Castarede 1972 Classic (2023)
$185
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