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Evaluation: Woodford Reserve Grasp’s Assortment Historic Barrel Entry


Woodford Reserve’s newest Grasp’s Assortment launch is upon us. Formally the Winter 2022 launch, it’s hitting solely now in February 2023, however who’s counting.

The twist with this launch is an attention-grabbing one. Of all of the facets of whiskeymaking, barrel entry proof tends to get the least quantity of dialogue, partly as a result of it’s poorly understood. “Entry proof” is the proof of the alcohol because it enters the barrel for the primary time. Most trendy bourbon hits the barrel on the authorized excessive restrict of 125 proof (together with Woodford) or barely decrease (which Wild Turkey is semi-famous for). It wasn’t all the time that approach, and with this particular launch, Woodford despatched the whiskey into the barrel at a rock-bottom 100 proof, which was frequent again within the nineteenth century.

Why does this matter?

“A decrease entry proof appears counterintuitive when one thinks of getting extra taste from the brand new, charred barrel. The truth is, lots of the barrel extractives we need are extra water soluble than they’re alcohol,” says grasp distiller Chris Morris. “By having a decrease entry proof (in different phrases extra water within the barrel than the Woodford Reserve customary of 110 proof entry) will lead to richer, candy traits being absorbed from the barrel’s famed crimson layer.”

Acquired all that? Let’s give it a attempt.

I’ve to say, Morris’s feedback {that a} decrease entry proof might lead to a stronger wooden taste don’t absolutely pan out right here. Energetic and aromatic on the nostril, it’s bought some wooden to make certain, however the massive driver is caramel corn, with baked apples unfolding beneath. The wooden aspect is a bit inexperienced, simply evenly charred — virtually the best way I anticipate a toasted barrel whiskey to come back throughout. The palate’s bought a whole lot of the identical parts on show. A stronger fruit be aware — once more, baked apples, right here displaying some cinnamon — leads the cost, with a sweeter high quality constructing towards the end. Some peanut butter notes are evident as effectively, these holding on effectively into the denouement, the place a brown butter character lingers. All informed, the whiskey is surprisingly vigorous all through, and the apple notes give it extra of a fruit-forward tone than another Woodford launch that instantly involves thoughts. That’s not a nasty factor in my e-book.

90.4 proof.

A- / $130 (700ml) / woodfordreserve.com 

Woodford Reserve Grasp’s Assortment Historic Barrel Entry

$130

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