I just lately solid a important eye over Goldfinch whisky. New indie bottlers are bobbing up in every single place. Each appears to supply a brand new tackle demonstrating the provenance behind the model, with the expectation that this could reassure clients of some semblance of high quality earlier than they select to half with their hard-earned cash for these whiskies.
Finn Thomson could have gone the farthest and spent probably the most in demonstrating that whisky is in his DNA, commissioning specialist analysis to analyze the household connections with whisky. Finn was capable of assemble a complete again story that shaped the plot for a shiny high-production worth commercial movie that has “Finn” operating up Scottish mountains to supervise his property in scenes that seem to have been reduce from the James Bond Skyfall film.
The place some indie bottlers wrestle to maintain the backstory after slightly scrutiny, Finn Thomson’s family had been important characters within the whisky enterprise. The entire historical past seems like one thing that needs to be coated by the Liquid Antiquarian. The corporate web site states that in 1772 James Thomson was operating a bootleg nonetheless. In 1838 the Thomson household purchase the tiny Grandtully Distillery. The distillery output was simply 5,000 gallons a 12 months (a cottage trade, actually); it closed in 1910 after Prime Minister Lloyd George elevated taxes.
Alfred Barnard famous throughout his go to that the top quality of the spirit was offered to all of the highly effective locals. The distillery was run by cousins of Alexander Thomson, who was a profitable grocer in close by Perth. This, in fact, is the heyday of grocers and across the time many notable whisky companies equivalent to John Walker in 1820, Gordon and MacPhail in 1895 had been based in grocers’ retailers.
Round this time, grocers would purchase bulk whisky and mix their very own manufacturers, a lot of which stay in some kind as we speak. It appears Finn’s ancestors had been no totally different, taking whisky from the household distillery and promoting it as Grand Outdated Grandtully. The household continued the Perth grocery enterprise within the city via the flip of the century, with Peter Thomson making a home mix for his personal store for which he laid down casks. Across the identical time Bell’s, Dewar’s and the Well-known Grouse had their beginnings in Perth.
The home mix was named Golden Beneagles in 1922, leaping the gun on the magnificent Gleneagles resort which opened in 1924. The roaring Nineteen Twenties was a profitable time for the household, with Beneagles and Gleneagles changing into considerably synonymous. Through the Second World Conflict the ladies of the household stepped as much as run the household enterprise and drive it onwards into post-war modernisation.
By the Nineteen Sixties Michael Thomson took over the enterprise and continued to develop it, together with – particularly – the wines and spirits arm. This chapter considerably overlaps with my circle of relatives historical past as my Nice grandfather, Sir Robert Nimmo, was chairman and managing director of John Wright & Co (Perth) Ltd, which owned Perth Brewery. His father was a brewer within the city and his son, my grandfather, additionally labored in brewing and distilling.
Again to the Thomsons, who inform us that Michael Thomson offered the Beneagles model within the Nineteen Eighties however retained the corporate’s inventory of growing old casks; this was effectively timed, as single malt wass starting to growth. This inventory of whisky was, in flip, handed to his son Andrew and onward to Finn within the type of guardian firm MacGregor Thomson Whiskies Ltd, of which Finn is a director.
MacGregor Thomson Whiskies Ltd was based in 2017. I’d query whether or not the quiet interval between the Nineteen Eighties sale of Beneagles and the founding of the brand new firm in 2017 equals a break in continuity and maybe weakens the provenance slightly? May I begin brewing beer driving on the coattails of the success of my grandfathers? Maybe. However, the household story is much more genuine and fascinating than different indie bottlers who’re mere pretenders.
The timeline additionally helps us perceive that the household casks laid down within the Nineteen Eighties and early Nineties will kind the premium Uncommon and Crown assortment releases from the Finn Thomson model, whiskies with hefty age statements and related value tags. The primary Crown assortment launch is a 50 12 months outdated Glenlivet from the household inventory, a small perception maybe into the part components of the unique Beneagles mix.
Us mere mortals will most definitely be delving into the Core assortment, whiskies fairly frankly not sufficiently old to be included within the official narrative. These are acquired through the identical open market as different impartial bottlers purchase casks. It’s the core releases I’ll get all the way down to reviewing shortly.
As for the massive man himself, Finn: a stratospheric rise from a UK Gross sales Trainee on the Scottish Liqueur Centre, through Gross sales for Morrison & Mackay, adopted by promotion to model ambassador for Morrison MacKay, a task involving working the circuit of whisky festivals and reveals round Europe. Transferring again into gross sales with Copper Canine, Finn then lastly stepped in as Director of MacGregor Thomson Whiskies Restricted in 2019. In comparison with many others within the impartial bottling enterprise that is fairly affordable expertise.
Finn identifies 4 components which he applies to the grading of the casks: persona, distillery character, cask affect, and steadiness. These are then detailed alongside every bottle on the web site. This can be a good contact and gives far more of an perception into the whisky than tasting notes alone. It helps elucidate a signature type. The significance of a steadiness between distillery character and cask affect is definitely one thing that’s usually missed in trendy indie releases.
The packaging and labelling of all whiskies, regardless of the vary stage, reveals a contact of sophistication. Verging on beautiful, clearly no expense has been spared with product designers and model builders earlier than the very shiny launch of the whiskies. These definitely have shelf enchantment, even on the fundamental core vary.
Finn Thomson Blair Athol 9 12 months Outdated – Overview
230 litre hogshead. 59.6% ABV. £56.
Color: Gold.
On the nostril: Candy buttery and malty, ripe white fruits develop slowly together with smooth woody notes, some icing sugar and a punch of nutmeg and all spice.
Within the mouth: Youthful and juicy, creamy vanilla, daring and scrumptious, juicy peach, roasted nectarine, orange blossom. Water makes it extra approachable, juicer, extra fragrant, custard apple, quince, strawberries with cracked black pepper, vanilla cream, slightly clove, madeira cake, a pinch of cayenne pepper provides away some youth on the end.
Conclusions:
Sincere, tasty spirit, no foolish casks, unbelievable whisky for simply 9 years outdated.
Rating: 7/10
Finn Thomson Inchgower 13 12 months Outdated
Torres Crimson Wine end for 18 months. 58.8% ABV. £65.
Color: Corten metal.
On the nostril: Juicy stewed pink fruits, strawberry, raspberry, cherry, some spearmint, with a spine of malt. Cracked black pepper. With water extra fruit, some blackcurrant and bramble.
Within the mouth: Thick, syrupy pink fruits and pink wine, peppery spirit and tingling wooden spices. Creamy cranachan. Extra wealthy malt notes seem with water, these are overlaid with extra thick fruit sauce, floor ginger, mace, clove give a spicy end.
Conclusions:
Good spirit with cask provides a really trendy wine end. Sure, a contemporary whisky, however one which works in addition to any wine end I’ve had. Jogs my memory of the Outdated Perth Cask Energy Crimson Wine. Pretty priced, too.
Rating: 6/10
Finn Thomson Mannochmore 14 Years Outdated – Overview
18 month end in a Pedro Ximinez sherry cask. 58% ABV. £85.
Color: Wealthy gold.
On the nostril: Thick, cloying sweetness, boiled sweets, milky espresso, juicy raisin, boiled sugar and Brûlée tops at first however there’s a fruitiness and spirit high quality that begins to point out with sufficient time within the glass.
Within the mouth: Oily sweetness adopted by a veritable Willy Wonka’s manufacturing facility of sweets, foam shrimps, soor plooms, orange popping sweet, rhubarb and custard, refreshers sweets, then extra complicated flavours too, apple crumble and Tarte Tatin, the end is brief and slightly peppery.
Conclusions:
I’ve to confess, this had quite a lot of pink flags for me: Mannochmore (groan), PX end (groan)… and on the nostril these considerations gave the impression to be legitimate. However there was good whisky character itching to be skilled too. Fortunately, the lighter flavours gained out on the palate, and I must say that is in all probability one of the best Mannochmore I’ve tasted.
Rating: 7/10
Finn Thomson Caol Ila 15 12 months Outdated – Overview
18 month end in an oloroso sherry cask. 51.3% ABV. £105.
Color: Wealthy gold.
On the nostril: Delicate wooden smoke, candy darkish sugars, a pinch of salt, furnishings wax, Vimto cordial, water brings out an fascinating glowing prosecco word.
Within the mouth: Smoky flat Vimto, easy and candy, some raspberry jelly, milk chocolate, orange zest and juicy elevating, there’s a background funkiness which is good. Peppery baking spices and a twang of spicy peat. The end is sort of quick and slightly flat, woody and dry.
Conclusions:
Indie bottlers all launch Caol Ila, some attempt to stand out with cask finishes, boosting the worth and making an attempt to cowl the prices of the opposite Diageo distilleries they’d to purchase within the four-cask parcel. That has led to a plethora of disappointing releases. The underlying Caol Ila spirit is at all times good, and it’s tremendous to discover a bottler who has managed to discover a cask to work effectively with it. Right here the end improves the general expertise. Being bottled at 15 years provides a roundness to the spirit which is usually not current on the youthful age statements seen. It in all probability justifies the worth.
Rating: 7/10
Ultimate ideas
Though my instincts recommend all of the household historical past is irrelevant to the standard of whisky from this new privileged upstart, tasting these first releases recommend I could be exhibiting some unconscious bias. May whisky truly be within the blood of the Thomson household? May or not it’s that Finn has inherited not only a cask portfolio however an innate instinct for choosing nice whisky? I actually hope that this primary launch is an announcement of intent and future launch will proceed to achieve this benchmark and even higher it.
