Barrels aren’t new to the tequila {industry}, however rigorously growing old merchandise in barrels could also be. Again within the early 1800s tequila was transported round Guadalajara in small picket barrels, in accordance with author and tequila historian Ted Genoways. Later in that century mules carried comparable tequila-filled barrels over the border to share the wealth with neighbors to the north. However the first marketed añejo didn’t arrive till 1917 with Jose Cuervo’s “Supremo Tequila Añejo” known as Cuatro Letras, promoted in its time as “a high quality substitute for the higher Cognacs,” in accordance with Genoways. Regardless of this historical past, producers are simply beginning to play with a bigger vary of kinds.
“We get a really wealthy product out of the nonetheless, so this has not pressured us to search for better complexity or subtlety of maturation methods,” says Sergio Mendoza, proprietor of Tequila Don Fulano, made on the distillery Tequileña (NOM 1146), which has probably the most intensive barrel collections within the {industry}. As a result of tequila producers have been spoiled by the complexity of their uncooked materials —agave— they didn’t begin taking growing old severely till the final 50 to 60 years, he notes.
At this time, tequileros have lots of choices in terms of growing old methods, from the selection of barrels, to how they’re handled, how lengthy they’re used, and whether or not they’re blended, or left as single barrels. All of those are necessary choices that have an effect on the ultimate product. The truth is, Mendoza estimates that 70% to 80% of an aged tequila’s qualities come from the growing old.
Whereas the subtleties are seemingly infinite, we thought we might a minimum of take you for a sneak peek to see how a number of manufacturers strategy their añejos.
We’ll begin our journey at tequila El Tequileño, because the model has lengthy had a blanco and reposado, however no everlasting añejo in its lineup. (They did produce an excellent añejo for the model’s fiftieth anniversary in 2009, aptly named “Especial fiftieth Aniversario“.)
Now that El Tequileño is below new possession (it was purchased by Wayne Henuset/Paradise Spirits in 2017) they determined to broaden their choices, bringing each añejos and further añejos (XAs) into the combo, in addition to additional aged reposados.
We joined them one morning final November within the city of Tequila as their tasting crew took samples from many alternative barrels, and completely different “tons,” or distillation runs.
“Every barrel provides a distinct nuance to the lot,” says Randy Ullom, Winemaster at Household Jackson Wines, and a brand new stakeholder within the El Tequileño model.
Randy Ullom takes stock of the barrel samples that shall be blended collectively to create the brand new El Tequileño Añejo tequila launch.
They pulled 12 additional añejo samples and round 35 añejo samples from older, charred American Oak barrels, in addition to newer American Oak and French Oak barrels. The samples ranged from simply 1 month in age, to 7 years.
“You might be searching for these minute attributes each within the aromatics, and naturally within the palate… you need it to be fulfilling and have a pleasant end,” Ullom says.
When the tasters went to work some samples have been eradicated on the outset (in the event that they tasted like they wanted additional time within the barrel, for instance), whereas others have been recognized as standouts.
A listing of the barrels used in the course of the mixing session for the brand new El Tequileño Añejo tequila.
As an illustration, they put aside a pattern that carried the model’s signature orange peel aroma, in accordance with Tony Salles, Grasp Distiller at El Tequileño. He represents the third technology of tequileros on the distillery and is working with the brand new house owners to maintain the model’s traditions alive.
As soon as all of the samples have been evaluated, Ullom started mixing. As a substitute of getting an finish product in thoughts, the mixing takes benefit of what the growing old is giving them, he says.
After all, the method of making new profiles is far completely different than if in case you have a longtime product, and wish to produce some degree of consistency batch to batch.
Over at Casa Noble they attempt for consistency by means of barrel mixing, and tasting to verify the aged tequila meets their profile, similar to balanced agave, vanilla, spices and dried fruits, says Casa Noble World Model Ambassador Dave Yan.
They age all of their common reposado and añejo in French Oak barrels, however of various sizes and completely different toast ranges. This offers them a better number of aromas and flavors from the identical wooden. When the tequila in them reaches maturity, it’s sampled by their growing old grasp, Juan Jose.
They lean closely on his palate to make sure that the mixing of barrels is profitable. He first tastes the tequila popping out of every barrel and decides whether or not it should go into the mix he’s producing, or put aside for a single-barrel product whether it is notably distinctive.
“It’s a matter of integrating what you could have in the correct portion with out shedding your identification,” says Yan. “That’s a part of the craft.”
So, mixing a proportion of various barrels and having a crew verify new batches to gauge consistency is one widespread method that añejos are produced. However there may be one tequila producer who takes a really completely different strategy, by “vatting.”
It is a course of extra sometimes utilized by producers of Scotch, Cognac, and Whisky in Europe, however was adopted by Enrique Fonseca at Distileria La Tequileña round 30 years in the past. It’s a “post-aging course of” wherein they put a number of barrels into a big picket or stainless-steel vat, after which let it “marry”, so the completely different flavors mix and mellow, says Don Fulano’s Mendoza, who can also be Enrique’s nephew.
That is accomplished as a result of every particular person barrel has its personal profile and contributes completely different parts to the product, which might divert from the specified profile, he says. Marrying additionally has the benefit of bringing the mix of batches into stability, he says.
“It’s wonderful how when you begin mixing barrels the product is actually resisting one another on a molecular degree,” Mendoza says. However with time, it comes collectively
At La Tequileña they’ve round 36 picket vats of between 12,000 and 16,000 liters, plus one other two dozen stainless-steel ones. They empty a distinct mixture of barrels into every vat, relying on the product they’re producing, and allow them to marry for a minimum of 60 days to deliver the completely different barrels in stability.
Giant pipones are used within the vatting course of on the La Tequileña distillery positioned in Tequila, Jalisco.
When a person vat dips beneath 50% full they are going to add extra barrels into it, so they’re retaining consistency by this pure “back-blending” course of.
“The actual benefit of that is having the ability to fine-tune the product to precisely what you need to obtain, Mendoza says.
In any other case, tequila has so many variables it’s troublesome to regulate, he notes. However with their course of they’re making certain that if a shopper likes considered one of their aged merchandise, they are going to be capable of get one thing very comparable sooner or later.
Tequila Patrón reaches consistency in an identical vein, with their “solera” system. It is a methodology of retaining a certain quantity of stock readily available to fulfill demand by making many small batches, mixing them to a desired profile, after which letting them marry in holding tanks.
As a result of they’ve a steady move of quantity going to holding after which to bottling, the stock within the solera hardly strikes, creating consistency, says Patrón Manufacturing Director Antonio Rodriguez.
By the point the tequila is bottled it has been tasted twice by their growing old crew—as soon as when it’s faraway from the barrel and blended, earlier than it goes into the solera system, and once more earlier than bottling.
In every case, these “vatting”-type processes are accomplished with exact measurements of the aged merchandise being added in. Figuring out the kind of barrel, the flavors it’s producing, and the way lengthy the tequila has been resting, is essential. However these programs additionally require growing old quantity—a large number of barrels to rotate product out and in of.
That’s not the case at Fortaleza, which is devoted to small batch manufacturing. The model ages each its reposado and añejo in used American Oak whisky barrels. When the tequila reaches its desired age (round 6 months for the repo and 18 months for the añejo), the barrels are emptied right into a holding tank, after which bottled pretty shortly to maintain up with demand. There isn’t a adjusting to match earlier batches.
“We don’t attempt to get consistency — that’s what small batch means,” says Tequila Fortaleza Proprietor Guillermo Erickson Sauza. “There shall be some tiny variations which might be unimaginable to regulate.”
Fortaleza has lengthy embraced the changeable nature of tequila, showcasing variations in agave, manufacturing runs, barrels, and seasons. Like wine, tequila has terroir and is affected by many tiny adjustments within the surroundings and within the course of. By placing a “Lot” quantity on every bottle, Fortaleza acknowledges that every batch is exclusive.
The barrel room at Tequila Fortaleza is a part of their small batch course of. Every lot finally ends up having its personal distinctive traits and “consistency” shouldn’t be the principle goal.
As an illustration, a Lot 47 reposado and Lot 48 reposado might need completely different colours or style barely completely different, Sauza says. “There’s many issues that may drive that, however what comes out of the barrels is what comes out. One factor I can say for positive is that we don’t use components (for consistency).”
He makes an necessary level. Letting batches converse for themselves, or rigorously mixing barrels and utilizing vatting-like processes to attempt to discover consistency shouldn’t be accomplished industry-wide. The truth is, many producers depend on components similar to caramel coloring and oak extracts to create consistency.
That is allowed below {industry} rules, however shouldn’t be—in our view—essentially the most sleek technique to age. Some {industry} insiders, who select to not be quoted, acknowledge that one of many largest errors within the tequila {industry} was organising the expectation that aged tequilas ought to be constant, with the identical colour and taste irrespective of once they have been made, or which barrels have been used. Till shoppers understand that in an effort to obtain batch-to-batch parity some producers will depend on components, we shall be caught with this consistency dilemma.
Again at Tequileño the mixing continued. Ullom determined so as to add a little bit bit of additional añejo to their new everlasting añejo product.
Randy Ullom takes notes of all of the samples earlier than combining them collectively within the mixing session for the brand new El Tequileño Añejo tequila.
Grasp Distiller Salles appeared proud of the consequence. “I feel we outdid ourselves (in contrast with fiftieth Aniversario). It has a very good taste and aroma of candy vanilla and honey.” And importantly, it retains with the home fashion. “You can simply say that is Tequileño,” Salles says.
To maintain consistency for future tons, they are going to maintain onto among the new añejo to “again mix” with future batches.
After hours of tasting and mixing, the crew landed on a brand new añejo, now dubbed Añejo Gran Reserva, which is a mix of 2-year añejo with 6-year additional añejo. (It ought to be debuting available in the market as quickly as this month.) Additionally they selected an XA mix, however determined to go away it within the barrel a little bit longer.
In the event you select to go to the Casa Salles Resort that sits on the distillery property, you can even pattern a brand new French Oak single barrel that shall be unique there.
They’ve extra aged merchandise deliberate, together with a single barrel program, and they’re even releasing a cristalino quickly.
The mixing course of is a crew effort at El Tequileño.
Again in November we tasted blends for each the brand new añejo and upcoming XA, in addition to some single barrel choices. All have been nicely made, and carried the distinctive and actual attributes of the wooden. Our favourite was the XA mix (barely excessive proof after we tried it). The complexity and wealthy dried fruit aromas made it a knockout, although we usually most popular much less aged tequilas.
“That’s the artwork of the mixing,” Ullom says. You’re taking what the barrel offers you, and spotlight the strengths, based mostly on cautious tasting and care.
A Video View
We shot this video throughout our go to to the El Tequileño Añejo mixing session, which included a tasting session on the finish to gather suggestions from trusted tasters.
