As we speak, I’m placing myself on the spot.
This evaluate was prompted by Matt Kusek, who not solely offered the pattern for this evaluate (thanks, pal) but additionally the impetus for the unconventional (by Malt requirements) manner I’m going to strategy this one. What do I imply by that?
In a chat with a gaggle of whiskey writers, Matt just lately posed an fascinating query, which I’ll paraphrase right here: when reviewing, can we take into account a whiskey in isolation, or within the broader context of how differentiated it’s relative to comparable choices on the market within the whiskey market?
Since I’ve solely ever formally reviewed whiskey right here on Malt, I’ve hewed very near the “Malt technique,” or at the least the interpretation of it that I’ve internalized and elucidated to myself. I work out what a whiskey is, within the sense of the specifics of its manufacturing and maturation. I take into account these points each by way of their influence on the aromas and flavors that come out of the glass, in addition to whether or not they justify a premium value both as inputs (resulting from elevated expense) or as outputs (leading to completely different and/or higher tasting whiskey)
On that final level: there are a couple of examples of strategies of whiskey making that may clarify a better value for a bottle. Craft producers have diseconomies of scale relative to giant, industrial distilleries of the kinds that churn out the best-known international manufacturers. I’m acutely aware of this and subsequently not as demanding of value competitiveness when I’m evaluating the choices from a smaller-sized producer as I’d be from one of many behemoths of the whiskey world.
Heirloom grains, candy mashing, decrease barrel entry proof, and premium cooperage (e.g. air dried staves) are all inputs that may add extra value. If I do know that these have gone into the whiskey, then it’s solely cheap to anticipate to pay extra for the whiskey made out of them. Older whiskey, all issues being equal (which they by no means are) needs to be dearer than younger whiskey because of the prices of storage, loss to evaporation, and the time worth of cash. Generally (however not all the time) the trade-off that justifies the upper expenditure is a novel profile of the kind not obtainable through the use of commodity grains, bitter mash, the utmost permissible barrel entry proof, lower-cost barrels, or bottling younger whiskey.
In follow, researching all these particulars previous to tasting a whiskey signifies that I’ve already judged it – at the least on paper – to some extent. What if I had been to strip away all that prejudice and strategy a whiskey with as clear a slate as potential?
I’ve given the full blind strategy a shot earlier than; I’ve additionally tried semi-blind tasting the place I didn’t know – nor did I ever be taught – the precise identities of the whiskeys, past their producer. As we speak’s evaluate will lean extra towards the latter than the previous. So, what’s it that I do know prematurely of attempting this?
I do know that this can be a current entry within the acclaimed “Spot” vary; the Yellow Spot was first reviewed on Malt again in 2012 by Mark. A special Mark tried the cask power Blue Spot a couple of years in the past, whereas John adopted up with the Inexperienced Spot in 2021. Most just lately, John revisited the vary, tasting by Inexperienced, Yellow, Crimson, and Blue again in April.
That is the Gold Spot Restricted Version, although I’m not but positive what differentiates it from its siblings. I solely know the age (9 years) as a result of Matt reproduced the label in miniature on the pattern bottle he gave me. I don’t know the ABV or cask kind or anything. I appear to recall a value within the mid-$100s vary, although I’m not sure whether or not it was nearer to $100 or $200.
As famous earlier than, I’m a comparative novice within the broader discipline of Irish whiskey. I haven’t tried any of the Spot whiskies to the perfect of my recollection; if I did, I wasn’t paying consideration intently sufficient to repair an opinion of them in my thoughts. I’m conscious solely of the widely good regard during which these are held. Right here I attain the top of my foreknowledge, so I’m going to close my yap and get into the whiskey.
Gold Spot – Evaluation
Shade: Gold, obvi!
On the nostril: Orchard fruit sitting equidistant between recent and ripe jumps instantly from the glass. This is perhaps probably the most completely fruity nostril I’ve ever gotten on a whiskey, Irish or in any other case. There are ample aromas of pears and nectarines, however wait – as they used to say within the outdated infomercial – there’s extra. This pivots to very completely different (however no much less intense) notes on the darker finish of the spectrum. I’m getting anise, polished ebony wooden, Brazil nuts, and a hefty, meaty notice not like any I’ve beforehand encountered in Irish whiskey. With a while within the glass, the piquant spiciness of lemongrass and the oily, earthy chunk of ramp start to emerge, in addition to some rocky notes at each the excessive (limestone, chalk) and low (igneous) ends of the register. Sweet, confectioners’ sugar… this simply retains evolving. There’s a lot right here, and I hope for the same breadth of flavors on the palate.
Within the mouth: The primary sip delivers a pure expression of malted barley, hinting on the comparative youth of this. It doesn’t matter, nevertheless, as this shortly transitions into pear-flavored arduous sweet on the center of the palate, a notice that sends me again to childhood in the perfect of the way. There’s a dry floral nuance of potpourri which blooms for a second, in flip yielding to a creamy taste of sizzling chocolate made with entire milk. This takes on a woody component and a few extra of that nutty meatiness because it strikes towards the end. There, this whiskey quiets down considerably, not essentially in a nasty manner, however in a dramatic departure from the assertive presentation heretofore. Some inexperienced, stalky notes paying homage to rye whiskey sing this one out, with the whiskey fading to depart solely extra of these dried flowers and the occasional resurgence of mocha as reminders of the whiskey that got here earlier than.
Conclusions:
The nostril on this can be a tour du drive, elevating my expectations for the palate to ranges that had been, in hindsight, unobtainable. Attempting to mentally push apart that preconception and choose the mouth in isolation: there are a couple of youthful notes right here, particularly within the entrance of the mouth. Not immature, thoughts you, however they’re proof of the truth that this was bottled on the sooner facet.
That pear sweet taste in the midst of the mouth is a pure delight, married to a couple twists and turns that preserve this intriguing. I’d have beloved this whiskey to comply with by with a symphonic grand finale by the end, however the orchestra of flavors went all pianissimo as this transitioned right into a diminuendo dynamic into the coda.
Utilizing Matt’s proposed methodology of evaluating this by itself deserves as a whiskey, I’m feeling like that is someplace between a 6/10 and a 7/10, although whether or not I spherical up (or down) ultimately will probably be considerably depending on the worth, per the dictates of our scoring bands.
Earlier than I get to that, although, let’s return to my regular level of departure. What are we coping with right here, from a tough factual perspective?
Per the official web site for Gold Spot, this expression is “matured for at the least 9 years in Bourbon Barrels, Sherry Butts, Bordeaux Wine Casks and Port Pipes. Non chill filtered and bottled at 51.4% ABV.” Clicking on the “Purchase Now” hyperlink takes me to the Midleton distillery store, the place the whiskey is now not listed. A bit Google-fu taught me that the discharge value of this was €120 and – checking again in with Matt – I see he paid $110.
So, stable bottling power and an excellent mixture of unique cask sorts along with the usual bourbon barrels and sherry butts, however at a premium to the opposite family members (for reference, Inexperienced Spot is $60 in my space and the 12 yr outdated Yellow Spot is $100).
Would I personally purchase a bottle of this if I noticed it for $110? Let’s put it this fashion: I’d be tempted. It’s very tasty; with out realizing it, I’ve completed the rest of the pattern over the course of composing this evaluate. That stated, it’s no Redbreast 12 Yr Cask Power by way of intrinsic high quality, nor by way of worth for cash.
Nevertheless, I’d fortunately put this in entrance of somebody as inexperienced as myself (or extra so) for example of “excellent Irish whiskey.” The a number of cask sorts have been utilized nicely to ship a breadth of fragrant and taste growth, and I really like that it has a little bit of malty youthful edge to it. To sum all of it up, I’m rounding down inside my beforehand contemplated vary. Don’t let that idiot you, although… this actually hits the spot.
Rating: 6/10
Photograph courtesy of Spot Whiskeys.
