Down in Panda & Sons’ lab, housed within the basement of close by sibling bar Nauticus, proprietor Iain McPherson tinkers together with his array of freezing tools. The Edinburgh-based bartender pulls trays of fruit from his high-tech industrial freeze dryer. “Do that,” he says, providing a style of dehydrated apple whereas eyeing his Tefcold chest freezer. On this tremendous freezer, which may attain excessive temperatures (as little as –50°C), McPherson retains chrome steel growlers and ice coolers, every full of substances to which he has utilized his modern subzero strategies like “switching” and “sous pression.” Poking round McPherson’s lab—illuminated by a neon blue signal that reads “Mind Melting Society”—is like taking a tour of Mr. Freeze’s bunker.
With a few educational levels within the science of ice cream, McPherson has devoted the previous few years to growing mind-bending freezing strategies and making use of them to cocktails. The fruits of his efforts is Panda & Sons’ award-winning cocktail menu entitled Transcend, which is split into 4 sections by approach: “Switching,” “Sous Pression,” “Freeze Drying” and “Cryo Focus.” For many who wish to dip their toes into the ice-cold waters of McPherson’s processes, the final approach is most replicable.
“Cryo focus, often known as ‘freeze focus,’ is the OG subzero taste approach,” explains McPherson. The tactic entails freezing a liquid—comparable to blended fruit—and eradicating the water content material, leading to “a extra concentrated and flavorful liquid.” McPherson additionally likes to consult with the approach as “freeze ripening” as a result of it’s akin to natural ripening: Water content material decreases, sugar and acids enhance. That is the strategy that Panda & Sons makes use of to make the Pink Panda, one among its cult-favorite cocktails, served on the bar because it opened in 2013. The savory drink, which is now on its second iteration, is a twist on the Pink Snapper (a gin-based Bloody Mary) made with Thai flavors which are impressed by McPherson’s time residing in Thailand.
“The two.0 nonetheless has the identical substances as the unique as a result of we needed to remain true to the basic with its aromatic, refreshing, spicy, umami and zingy taste,” says McPherson. “However this time, we needed to indicate how, with cryo focus, we will pull out totally different taste profiles from substances.”
To prep the tomato ingredient, McPherson pours store-bought tomato juice right into a 4-liter insulated cooler. As soon as crammed, the cooler is saved in an upright freezer set to –10°C (14°F) for twenty-four to 30 hours in order that the juice partially freezes; a layer of frozen watery tomato juice rests on prime of the unfrozen concentrated juice. McPherson removes the frozen layer, forsaking an amplified tomato part that’s extra flavorful and plush in texture, and may keep colder for longer due to the decreased water content material.
In line with the standard Pink Snapper construction, the tomato juice is paired with Tanqueray No. Ten gin that’s been infused with contemporary cucumber and torn makrut lime leaves so as to add an fragrant freshness to the cocktail. A proprietary spice combine in addition to salt, pepper, Worcestershire sauce and lemon juice are additionally added earlier than the drink is thrown to aerate and dilute it. The ultimate improve to the bar’s unique Pink Panda comes within the type of Guinness foam.
Whereas the 1.0 model of the drink was served with a float of Guinness on prime, McPherson says that the two.0’s Guinness foam “provides a stunning tender bitterness to the drink, which slowly evolves as you sip.” To make the froth, McPherson combines Guinness with xanthan gum, a meals foaming agent, and a few black meals coloring for a extra distinct visible enchantment. The combination is then chilled and disbursed through an iSi whipper after being charged with an N2O (nitrous oxide) cartridge.
McPherson feels the tweaks made to the second technology of the drink have a huge impact. The brand new model “tastes just like the 1.0, however all souped up,” he says. The indulgent Pink Panda 2.0 balances vibrant citrusy aromatics, umami from the tomato, successful of savory-sour warmth from the spice combine and a fragile bitterness and textural nuance from the froth.
McPherson will proceed to delve into the comparatively unexplored depths of subzero strategies; he feels his latest improvements are solely the tip of the iceberg. “Over the following few years, new strategies could also be realized, which is able to allow us to enhance our cocktails, such because the Pink Panda 2.0, much more,” he says. However for now, “Pink Panda 2.0 isn’t going anyplace quickly.”
