There’s no denying the cinematic spirit of Christmas in New York. When a basic establishment like Keens Steakhouse is adorned for the vacations, assembly there for a spherical of Martinis is definitely worth the problem of navigating the slippery sidewalks stuffed with consumers funneling out and in of the flagship Macy’s in close by Herald Sq.. There’s a short sense of reduction once you open the door on thirty sixth Avenue and are enveloped by the scent of charred, aged meat and the ambient glow of the bar, however grabbing a seat shortly after could be a little bit of a contact sport, as everybody within the metropolis appears to have had the identical thought. Keens is all the time busy.
One among New York’s oldest steakhouses, Keens first operated as a part of the Lambs Membership, a personal theatrical society, till Albert Eager, a theater producer, took over in 1885 and made it an impartial restaurant. Positioned in what was, on the time, Manhattan’s thriving theater district, Keens is a two-story operation composed of a number of eating areas. Upstairs, you’ll discover the Bullmoose Room, the Lambs Room, the Lincoln Room and the Lillie Langtry Room (named after the actress who efficiently took Keens to courtroom in 1905 to permit girls within the then-men-only venue). Downstairs are two different eating areas: the pub room and the primary bar.
The bartenders, in crisp white shirts, pink wine–coloured vests and neckties, work underneath the everlasting gaze of Miss Keens—the topic of an outsized portray of a nude girl in repose that’s the centerpiece of the bar—fielding drink orders, working tabs and ferrying burgers and plates of prime rib hash from the kitchen to ready visitors because the Knicks sport performs on the TV on the finish of the bar.
Keens’ head bartender, Manolo, was born in Havana and lived in Cuba for the primary 25 years of his life earlier than shifting to Miami. Whereas working in bars in Cuba and Miami, Morales estimates, conservatively. that he shook up at the least 100 Mojitos a day. When he moved to New York, he was prepared to just accept a job on the Mandarin Oriental Lodge when the supervisor of Keens referred to as him about working there, and he’s been a fixture behind the primary bar for the previous 14 years. He could have traded Mojitos for Martinis and mutton chops, however he wouldn’t have it some other means. We not too long ago checked in with Morales earlier than service to be taught extra a few typical shift in the course of the vacation season.
Manolo
Hometown:
Havana, Cuba
Present metropolis:
Manhattan (Hudson Yards)
Years within the business:
20
Variety of bars labored at:
6
Drink served most frequently: Mojito (again in Cuba and Miami), Outdated-Common (at Keens)
Favourite drink: Gin Martini, dry, out and in vermouth, lemon twist.
Favourite bar(s): Worker’s Solely, Zou Zou’s, wine bars
How did you first get into tending bar?
In Cuba, I used to work at a spot referred to as Jazz Cafe and acquired expertise making frozen Daiquiris, Mojitos [and] rum and Cokes. Conventional Cuban cocktails. Then after I moved to Miami, I used to be just about making the identical type of drinks. So I went to ABC, an American bartending college, the place I needed to make, like, 28 drinks in 5 minutes. I discovered extra about American cocktails, however as soon as I moved to New York, it was fully completely different. It was the actual factor. I needed to just about fully begin over and relearn all the things I assumed I knew.
Had been you aware of Keens earlier than you began working right here?
No, I had by no means heard about it. Once I got here right here for the primary time, I used to be so impressed with the historical past of the area and the old-school waiters and bartenders working the room. Once I first began working, it was a lot quieter, and we solely had 4 bartenders. Now we’ve 10, and all of us rotate between the primary bar and the 2 service bars, however I’m principally behind the primary bar downstairs.
What do you’re keen on about working right here?
I really like how busy we all the time are, and the best way service is run is exclusive however all the time constant. We have now the biggest single malt assortment in New York Metropolis, over 300 bottles, and I’ve had the prospect to be taught a lot about that class. It’s only a stable place to work. It’s laborious to get out of right here. Individuals keep a really very long time.
How would you describe your bartending model or philosophy?
I’d describe myself as a basic bartender. Very stable, quick, pleasant. Outgoing however very skilled. I put professionalism at first.
What recommendation would you give to a younger bartender entertaining the sector?
Study your drinks. Study your booze. Discover ways to take care of folks in high-pressure environments. Attempt to be good on a regular basis, even should you’re having a nasty day.
Is there something particularly about being a steakhouse bartender that units you aside?
Like all restaurant bar, it’s important to know your menu and it’s important to take care of meals service. However on this case, you simply must be very affected person. Even when somebody’s having a nasty day and so they’re being impolite to you, it’s important to maintain it skilled and be constant on a regular basis. Issues right here don’t change an excessive amount of, and other people anticipate that sense of consistency.
There’s a lot historical past in each sq. inch of Keens. Do you are feeling such as you’re additionally serving as a museum docent to visitors?
Oh, on a regular basis. Individuals need to know what’s up with all of the pipes hanging from the ceiling. Most individuals ask me in regards to the portray behind the bar. Each single buyer asks me, “Who’s Miss Keens?” After which I’ve to clarify [that] there was no Miss Keens, and that it’s a reproduction of La maja desnuda by Francisco Goya that was finished by a New York Metropolis painter within the early 1900s. There was by no means a Miss Keens. However, I’d say the preferred artifact on show in the entire restaurant is the blood-stained playbill Abraham Lincoln was supposedly holding the night time he was assassinated at Ford’s Theatre on April 14, 1865. I convey so many visitors upstairs to the Lincoln Room to point out it to them.
What’s a typical shift like for you at Keens?
I often begin behind the bar at 4:30 p.m. and I’ll be busy till 8:30 p.m. Nonstop. Each night time. The kitchen closes at 10:30 p.m. and the bar closes at 11:30 p.m. However we’re consistently busy all yr lengthy—nonstop.
The primary bar at Keens is first-come, first-serve, and it will possibly get fairly aggressive and at instances irritating to discover a seat. Do you’ve any ideas for folks hoping to safe a barstool?
The most effective time to get a few seats on the bar is after 9 p.m. We get a giant crowd from the Knicks and Rangers video games at [Madison Square] Backyard and, mixed with folks stopping by after work, we simply get slammed.
Is there lots of day consuming on the bar?
I’ll open the bar at 11:45 within the morning, and I’ve acquired folks ordering Martinis. That’s why I really like New York. They’ll order a Martini and seize a hard-boiled egg from the rack on the bar. They’ll eat their egg, have a drink, order some meals and begin their day.
What do you cost for a type of eggs?
No cost. They’re free. The explanation we’ve these eggs on the bar is that again within the day within the late 1800s once they opened the bar, in New York Metropolis you needed to supply [free] meals to be able to get a liquor license. Arduous-boiled eggs had been the simplest factor to have available on a regular basis.
I keep in mind you used to ship out free sizzling bar snacks. How does that work?
Put up-pandemic, we now not do this. However from 5:30 p.m. to 7 p.m. each weekday we’d have a specific dish on a specific day—Scotch eggs on Tuesday, ribs on Wednesday, wings on Thursday and contemporary shrimp on Friday.
What are the preferred drink orders on the bar at Keens?
Manhattans, Martinis and Outdated-Fashioneds. These are three hottest, and strongest, drinks we make right here. For Martinis, most individuals order vodka, soiled. And all people desires a blue cheese olive: We make ours right here by hand, daily, one after the other. For our Outdated-Common, we use a peel from an orange and get the oil from it and add it to the glass with a bar spoon of easy syrup and two dashes of bitters. Then add three ounces of Outdated Overholt rye, stir over ice, then add a lemon peel and a cherry. It’s my favourite drink to make right here. It’s the most effective Outdated-Common within the metropolis.
You talked about your in depth single malt Scotch checklist. Do folks come right here particularly to test it out?
Prospects come from everywhere in the world to drink from our assortment. They’ll even have checklists to mark what they’ve tried. And we’re consistently including to it; we not too long ago added 30 new bottles. Costs fluctuate relying on the home, the distiller, the age assertion or how fashionable they’re, however all of them maintain going greater in worth.
Have you ever seen the clientele altering a lot because you began working right here?
Once I began right here, it was a distinct crowd, principally older folks and longtime regulars. We don’t do any advertising and marketing or promoting, however we’re getting extra fashionable than ever now, and that brings in a youthful crowd. Individuals need to cease in and have a drink at Keens. They might have seen us on Billions or the Meals Community. When Anthony Bourdain was nonetheless with us, he introduced lots of people right here through the years. It’s nonetheless the one place in New York Metropolis the place you may get a mutton chop.
How usually do you modify the trivia board behind the bar, and what do you win should you guess the solutions appropriately?
There’s three questions that we alter each weekday; the one on Friday stays up over the weekend. It’s a must to reply all three appropriately with out utilizing your smartphone. Again within the day, you’d win a cigar, although you’ll be able to’t smoke within the bar. After the cigar, we switched it to a free home beer, however post-pandemic, we don’t have a prize. Only a spherical of applause. Every day, we’ve one to a few individuals who guess all three questions appropriately.
What do you want about working at Keens in the course of the vacation season?
I’ve labored each Black Friday at Keens, and I’d all the time see folks are available with all of those pink purchasing luggage from Macy’s. So many pink luggage. However this yr there wasn’t a single purchasing bag from Macy’s. I assume it’s all on-line now. Cyber Monday. Who is aware of? However the quantity of people that will come by way of the doorways in December is unbelievable. As quickly as I step behind the bar, I’m busy all night time lengthy. However I really like Christmas in New York. I grew up with no Christmas in Cuba. I didn’t get my first Christmas tree till I moved to New York. And now I am going into full Christmas mode. I simply love the power of town in the course of the holidays.
