In my occasional forays into researching Tiki drink historical past and its early substances, I’ve spent lots of time monitoring down when passionfruit grew to become one of many style’s canonical substances. It could shock you that passionfruit syrup doesn’t seem like a primordial ingredient available to Don the Beachcomber and Dealer Vic once they swung excessive gear after prohibition. There’s additionally a associated line of inquiry about what function passionola (and later, fassionola) performed in Tiki’s early days. So, let’s take a spin by means of the newspapers and books of the day to see what we are able to be taught.
References to “ardour fruit syrup” and “passionfruit syrup” had been uncommon within the Thirties and Nineteen Forties. When talked about, it’s often inside an instructional context, e.g., Bulletin 77 of the Hawaii Agricultural Experiment Station (1939) or in cookbooks. The Hilo Girl’s Ebook Membership (1943) notes two several types of ardour fruit (“water-lemon” and “lilikoi”) and features a recipe for ardour fruit syrup:
Mentions of passionfruit syrup in cocktail books are few and much between within the Thirties and Nineteen Forties. Don and Vic weren’t sharing their recipes with abandon the way in which we do right this moment. Dealer Vic’s not too long ago uncovered Maori Punch recipe (1949) requires “ardour fruit juice imported from Australia.” Given the recipe’s different substances, we are able to moderately assume the “juice” was sweetened, maybe to the purpose of being a syrup. It was not referred to as passionfruit syrup, although. Maybe it went underneath a special identify commercially?
Passionola
If we step again to 1946, when Dealer Vic first revealed his Dealer Vic’s Meals and Drinks, you received’t discover the phrase passionfruit and even ardour talked about wherever. What we discover, nonetheless, is an early reference to passionola – sure, with a ‘p,’ not an ‘f’ – within the recipe for the Tonga bowl drink:
We’ve to marvel – was Vic a pioneer in utilizing passionola in tiki-style drinks? He definitely had competitors. A 1943 newspaper article titled Passionola Hits City notes:
Fred Wilke at Kitty Davis’ has obtained unique Florida rights to Passionola, commerce identify of the liquid extract, and has launched it on the theater-restaurant within the type of The Passionola Bomber and The Passionola Cooler.
These are tall, frosty, fruit trimmed drinks of marvelous efficiency, throat and eye enchantment! Clients are ordering them by the lots of each night time.
The Bomber is rose-colored and accommodates:
- 2 jiggers of rum
- 2 jiggers of Ardour Fruit
- 1 jigger of pineapple
- 1 jigger of lime
The “Cooler” is green-tinted and is made with gin as an alternative of rum.
This definitely appears like a Tiki drink recipe to me! By the way, the Kitty Davis’ talked about within the first sentence is Kitty Davis’ Airliner, a Miami nightclub set in an airplane.
Though not a tropical drink, one other early reference to passionola in combined drinks is a Southern Consolation commercial from 1942 noting it was “value making an attempt” a jigger of SoCo, a half-jigger of passionola, ice cubes, and topped with champagne.
Whereas we might not definitively know when passionola was first bought as a industrial product, we do know the identify was trademarked within the US in 1943:
A 1944 passionola ad notes it’s a Ardour Fruit Product and “The Style Thrill of the Century!” Moreover, three variations had been out there:
- GOLD — pure, tropical ardour fruit taste
- RED — paying homage to wealthy, crimson cherries
- GREEN — with the tasty tartness of lime.
How would possibly we use the varied variations? One other newspaper ad made strategies — gold passionola with rum, crimson with tequila, and inexperienced with gin or vodka. (I discover it attention-grabbing that the inexperienced “lime” fassionola wasn’t paired with tequila.)
Maybe this early “gold passionola” was merely passionfruit syrup as we all know it right this moment? And was it the identical passionola that Vic’s Tonga recipe used? We might by no means know.
RIP Passionola
We don’t we hear about passionola right this moment. It’s not talked about in tiki recipes. What occurred?
Would you consider a congressional investigation?
Buried inside a 1963 US authorities report entitled Frauds and Quackery Affecting the Older Citizen, Hearings Earlier than the Particular Committee on Getting old, United States Senate, is that this masterpiece of bureaucratic writing:
SEX PILLS
Different medicine are bought to make up for lack of vigor and sexual weak spot … We not too long ago grew to become conscious of a company which masquerades underneath a religio-scientiflc identify urging readers to submit by mail sums or $10 or $20 for “Stagg Bullets” and “Real Passionola,” the previous for males and the latter tor girls. The commercial refers to older women and men who are actually capable of do what they believed they may not in any other case accomplish due to their superior years …. The phrases and ads for “Stagg” and “Ardour” don’t describe the merchandise as blood builders and tonics however as marvels that may make a person no matter age romantic, younger, potent and virile because the gods.
Though the phrase “intercourse” isn’t used “one doesn’t want a magnifying glass to see it.”… “Real Passionola” contained sugar, juices of pineapple, papaya, peach, apricot, apple, grape, and fervour fruit.
So, yeah… that’s an attention-grabbing learn! The ingredient itemizing on the finish is a pleasant bonus. I recommend you begin your subsequent batch of Analog Fassionola utilizing this newfound information!
Fassionola
Unsurprisingly, references to passionola in books and newspapers plummeted after 1963. Whereas this isn’t too shocking, we’ve got to marvel in regards to the timing of a trademark for fassionola granted by the US Patent Workplace in 1964, i.e., the very subsequent 12 months! The trademark does word, nonetheless, “First use as early as 1945”. The thriller continues…
There’s rather more to the story I don’t have time for right here, and I’m anxiously awaiting the publication of Fassionola – The Torrid Story of Cocktails’ Most Mysterious Ingredient by Gregorio Pantoja and Martin S. Lindsay. I’m positive they’ll fill in lots of extra gaps within the story and I can’t await my copy to reach.
