“The longer term ain’t what it was.” – Yogi Berra
A hh, the nice outdated days… I’m speaking right here about 2019. It was a time when hope sprang everlasting and folks might breathe simple in a crowded liquor retailer filled with fellow fanatics (and never simply because it was pre-you-know-what) whereas seeking to safe this restricted version or that allotted expression. There then existed an expression of elevated high quality, aged for about 15 years, and priced round $50 that sat on cabinets in every single place.
That expression was Knob Creek Single Barrel, which – for a spell – repeatedly met the above specs and clocked in at an enthusiast-approved 120 proof.
Nonetheless – as Lawrence Peter Berra additionally as soon as famous – “a nickel ain’t value a dime anymore,” and predictably the tide turned. Positive, bourbon fanatics knew even then that such a superlative expression might by no means final. Folks purchased up Knob Creek Single Barrel bottles like they had been going out of fashion as a result of, frankly, all of us knew they might be.
Quickly, the phrase obtained out that Knob Creek can be sunsetting these older picks in favor of ones within the nine-to-10 yr vary, however what got here subsequent was much less anticipated: Jim Beam introduced in that star-crossed yr of 2020 that followers of their hyper aged distillate needn’t fear, as a result of they might be releasing a restricted version of Knob Creek 15 yr! Hurrah!
Nonetheless, as you could already nicely know, expensive reader, this is able to not be fairly the identical deal with as these chic single barrels. For one, the brand new expression can be a mix – a change that in itself isn’t troubling – however moreover the proof can be lowered from 120 to 100. For the ultimate blow? The value wouldn’t be $50 as it’s for Knob Creek Single Barrel, however as an alternative it might be the $100 befitting a Restricted Version Bourbon™ in immediately’s market. Reduce to completely grown adults laughing as they cry, burying their heads of their arms and their wallets of their pockets.
For as a lot as I really like Jim Beam’s juice, I’ve often been confounded by their pricing. To present however a couple of examples: Baker’s has a decrease proof however usually a better age assertion than Booker’s and is priced about $30 decrease. Likewise, Previous Grand Dad 114 has no age assertion however an much more comparative proof level for $70 much less. Then, even within the 9-year vary, we have now the newest iteration of Knob Creek’s Single Barrel choices that are lower than 5 proof factors decrease than the newest Booker’s expression (2022-02 the Lumberyard Batch) however two years older and priced between $50-$60 relying in your native retailer, practically half the price.
I exploit Booker’s for example right here, although I might lengthen the identical confusion to Little E book’s pricing, together with the topic of immediately’s assessment. I’m not blind to the truth that costs are rising throughout the board, however when it was initially introduced I’ve to confess that Knob Creek 15’s specs and value virtually felt like a betrayal. Not fairly like a betrayal, as a result of who amongst us actually expects a enterprise to do something aside from generate as a lot revenue as attainable? It’s the American approach! However, for us followers of these stellar Knob Creek Single Barrels, Semisonic’s “Closing Time” was blaring and possibly a bit little bit of puke was on our footwear.
If the above wasn’t clear sufficient, enable me to say outright that I’m a human being and – although I’m a human being who opinions whiskey – I’m clearly not proof against biases. The substitute of a beloved and inexpensive expression with one which appears to point an inclination for revenue motive over high quality enchancment definitely left a nasty style in my mouth (was that my puke on my footwear?). However, as such, I’ve tempered expectations for Knob Creek 15. I don’t anticipate it being as flavorful as the only barrels that got here earlier than it, as a result of the proof is decrease. I don’t anticipate it to grant me the easy-breathing assuredness that it is going to be a stable worth, as a result of the worth has doubled. Lastly, I’m a bit rankled by all the affair however I stay… hopeful? As a client I’ll not agree with the choice, however I definitely perceive it and – given the aforementioned proven fact that I take pleasure in Jim Beam’s bourbons at each worth level – I’ve hope that I’ll take pleasure in this as nicely.
Let’s lastly dispense with all of the pertinent particulars of this expression directly earlier than we attain the assessment: Knob Creek 15 has develop into an annual restricted version, clocking in at 100 proof (50% ABV) and bought at a steered retail worth of $100. The mash invoice is 77% corn, 13% rye, 10% malted barley. The bottle I’ll be reviewing immediately is just not from the 2021 batch or the yet-to-be-released 2022 batch, however somewhat the inaugural batch from everybody’s favourite yr. I also needs to word that this bottle was bought with my very own money when it was first launched and has been mendacity in anticipation at my dwelling for this second over the earlier 2 years.
Knob Creek 15 Yr Bourbon – Overview
Colour: Honey with auburn glints.
On the nostril: There’s a big oak and medicinal cherry fusion that’s initially nice however not significantly wealthy, as if the aromas are coming from down the corridor and never proper underneath the nostril. Past that there’s a shocking little bit of menthol and a few robust leather-based notes that usually include a bourbon on this age vary. As this sits within the glass some brown sugar emerges and I’m very unsurprised in any respect the prototypical well-aged-bourbon notes discovered on this glass. I’ve to say that none of it’s significantly thrilling and, over time, the oak begins to dominate the nostril in a approach that may definitely be off placing to these with an aversion to a robust oak presence.
Within the mouth: The cherry word carries over to the palate, although it’s not medicinal and extra so like dried cherries bathed in a contemporary squeezed orange. There’s additionally a good bit of crème brûlée, which is a welcome shock because the lighter candy notes from the burnt cream and citrus present cowl for the robust oak and leather-based presence that quickly follows. Whereas the mouth really feel is a tad lean, the end is spectacular regardless of being somewhat drying as the sunshine sweetness punches by with a contact of the menthol from the nostril.
Conclusions:
Whereas I went into this expression absolutely anticipating to be considerably let down, I’ve to say that I’m pretty impressed. Judging it by itself deserves, it is a tasty oak-forward bourbon that shows a good bit of steadiness on the palate regardless of being somewhat quotidian on the nostril. On first sip, this instantly reveals that there are extra layers than the nostril belies. That stated, it’s a bit skinny and – although it’s fulfilling – I’m compelled to contemplate it not only for the flavour it incorporates but additionally for the nostril and worth. With these two added to the equation, Knob Creek 15 loses a little bit of steam because it carries a steep price ticket and pretty pedestrian aromas. Whereas I loved this expression, I can’t think about I’ll return to the nicely time and time once more… and that is all earlier than we think about it compared to these magnificent 15 yr Knob Creek Single Barrels of yesteryear.
What I’m attempting to say is: Knob Creek 15 is completely high-quality however – so far as 15 yr Knob Creek goes – it ain’t what it was. On the palate that is worthy of being known as “good” on the Malt scoring scale, however I really feel obliged to dock some extent attributable to this expression being “restricted” in amount and unfriendly on the pockets.
