It has taken some time resulting from a blocked nostril and a full agenda, however I can lastly take the time to attempt the brand new Recollection sequence from Gordon & MacPhail (see final week’s information submit). It’s an annual sequence of uncommon single malt whiskies from closed distilleries. The primary batch consists of three forgotten masterpieces – later 9 extra casks will comply with this 12 months. Learn extra about this sequence on the Gordon & MacPhail web site.
We begin with a Lochside 1981, one thing that just about by no means hits the market certainly. Then there’s Glen Mhor 1982. The third whisky is St Magdalene 1982, a sister cask of the one bottled by Gordon & MacPhail three years in the past in the identical model of bottle.
Lochside 40 yo 1981 (49,2%, Gordon & MacPhail 2021, refill sherry hogshead #802, 141 btl.)
Nostril: jogs my memory of cognac in a method, due to the refined mixture of tangerines, minty wooden and leather-based. It actually takes some warming as much as kickstart the extra tropical fruits like mango and pineapple. Then combined berries, smooth hints of cake and the fervour fruit inexperienced tea I had the opposite day. Almond notes, slightly graphite and refined tobacco leaves come out after some time.
Mouth: begins barely woody, on candied ginger and walnuts, with a evenly tannic edge and closely infused fruit tea. That stated, there are nice hints of mango and pink grapefruit, combined with orange peels and refined menthol. Fairly near lovely rancio from previous cognacs certainly. Then only a darker trace of espresso, eucalyptus bark and resinous notes in direction of the top.
End: medium lengthy, on natural notes, drying cocoa powder and tea.
Nice to expertise the Lochside profile once more – a profile that’s now simpler to search out in previous cognac than in whisky I’d say. Opposite to those beneath, I really feel this couldn’t be stored for for much longer, in any other case the oak would have turn out to be slightly too outstanding. It’s the costliest bottling right here (£ 3200) which makes the opposite two slightly extra engaging for my part.
Glen Mhor 40 yo 1982 (50,8%, Gordon & MacPhail 2022, refill sherry hogshead #72, 174 btl.)
Nostril: extra sherry on this one. Tobacco and cigar bins, alongside toasted hazelnuts and numerous polished furnishings. Dried fruits, previous leather-based sure books and whiffs of chocolate. Black peppercorns, minty notes and a refined sourness of cherries as nicely. Wonderful.
Mouth: fairly a darkish profile now, with numerous chestnuts, tobacco leaves, darkish chocolate powder and a meatiness beneath. A beautiful dustiness, in addition to a brown sugar and darkish natural honey sweetness within the background. A number of drops of natural extracts. The load and richness is kind of beautiful.
End: lengthy, on marmalade, chocolate, tobacco and mild spice.
Wonderful whisky with a sure rustic, sturdy aspect that fits it. The candy and spicy layers make this richer and extra advanced than I anticipated, and surpass the lighter, extra slim fruity model of the Lochside. I’ve solely had a handful Glen Mhor releases, however that is the perfect one by far. Round £ 2250. Rating: 92/100
St Magdalene 39 yo 1982 (54,8%, Gordon & MacPhail 2022, refill American hogshead #2094, 165 btl.)
Nostril: the combination and the class listed below are beautiful. Mineral notes, hay and a herbalist’s store. Mild muddy components and earth. Then there’s additionally a hotter, fruitier aspect with stewed apples, dried pineapple slices, bergamot sherbet and citrus peels. Then excessive class tea, in addition to whiffs of potpourri, some beeswax and previous attics. Leathery notes too, as anticipated. Very advanced.
Mouth: simply pretty. There’s nonetheless a big selection of citrusy notes together with bergamot and candied lemons, but in addition a pleasant honey sweetness and even some icing sugar. Delicate floral touches. Pineapple units in later, with candy waxy and greasy notes. Then chamomile, very mild vanilla, natural teas and tobacco leaves. The sweeter aspect actually works right here, and it’s received a number of components that you just actually solely discover in very previous whisky.
End: medium lengthy, with extra of the citrus / honey theme, in addition to some warming oak.
If I may decide one favorite then I’d go for this St Magdalene. The rounder sweetness and fruitiness from the American oak, with the right quantity of tobacco, herbs and different old-school notes… marvellous whisky! Round £ 2250. Rating: 93/100
