“There are solely two lasting bequests we are able to hope to provide our kids. One among these is roots, the opposite, wings.” – Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Let me inform you why the Maryland Heritage Collection instantly captured my consideration. When the phrase about this new unique lineup began trickling out, as an astute web denizen I may instantly sense that there was real pleasure surrounding it. I occur to know a very good variety of high quality people within the DMV (D.C., Maryland, and Virginia) space who alerted me to the truth that these releases could be one thing particular.
Ever the cynic – particularly because it pertains to new whiskey manufacturers that pop up in a single day and grow to be viral sensations by the daybreak – I couldn’t assist however take a tough take a look at what was occurring right here. The Maryland Heritage Collection consists of three totally different batches of 95/5 ryes that spent the lion’s share of their lifetime in Indiana earlier than being aged an extra two years in Maryland. For these conserving rating, meaning we have now right here a revival of classic labels that honor Maryland’s historical past with whiskey that was, for essentially the most half, “born and bred” at Seagram’s Lawrenceburg Distillery Indiana, the precursor to MGP. What, then, could possibly be the reason for the thrill?
Contemplating the truth that these had been distilled at LDI we instantly have one indication of what makes these whiskeys fascinating: they’re 14 years outdated and thus significantly older than nearly all of MGP-sourced whiskey hitting the cabinets in as we speak’s barrel-scarce market. Okay, so we have now outdated whiskey. Outdated rye whiskey, which is a method sometimes launched at a a lot youthful age… however is that each one it takes to make taters tate with baited breath? Properly, after talking to Maryland Heritage Collection co-founder George Fotis, I discovered that there’s extra to the story than meets the attention.
George is an easygoing, affable man, and his longtime patrons sometimes name him “Doc” as a consequence of his background as a pharmacist. Actually, he labored because the pharmacist for the shop he now owns (Drug Metropolis Pharmacy and Liquors) for over 20 years earlier than taking the reins again in 2016. So, how did Doc George come to discovered a whiskey model? That story traces its origin again to a different intriguing determine within the Maryland whiskey scene, and that man’s title is Henry Wright Jr.
To listen to Doc George inform it, Henry Wright is likely one of the central whiskey figures to know within the area. “He’s been within the business since he was a toddler and he’s, in my view, one of the vital folks in our Maryland business so far as what he is aware of and what he’s seen.” Greatest identified to American Armed Forces members because the purveyor of Navy Particular bourbon – an expression completely out there at United States army trade shops the world over – Henry Wright has elsewhere been described as rye royalty.
His father first based a liquor brokerage and bottling enterprise in Maryland in 1933, as quickly as Prohibition ended, and Wright Jr. would be a part of the enterprise within the 60s. As we speak he’s president of each the wholesaler Atlantic Wine and Spirits and the Henry M. Wright & Co. Distillery.
“My father in all probability bought extra rye than anyone in historical past, and now myself and my firm have the most important assortment of classic rye whiskey on the earth. I’ve pre-Prohibition stuff from the Eighties all the best way as much as the final Maryland barrel.” Wright Jr. informed MarylandSpirits.org earlier this yr. From there, George Fotis relayed the story of how he and his enterprise associate, Justin Jarvis, got here throughout 40 barrels of hyper aged LDI rye.
“Due to Navy Particular he blends numerous MGP, and he had these barrels in Indiana (the place he shops all of his barrels) and in some way these 40 barrels bought put by the wayside. By the point he realized they’d them, they actually didn’t know what to do with them as a result of they’re not going to make Navy Particular out of them!” [laughs]
George went on to inform me that Henry bought in touch with him and Justin (who additionally owns a neighborhood retailer, Allview Liquors) and the group labored out a deal the place Henry would supply the barrels and classic branding whereas George and Justin had been allowed to mix the liquid as they noticed match, making the enterprise akin to a super-premium non-public label bottling. Ultimately, a fuller view of what makes these releases each distinctive and related to Maryland’s heritage in rye comes into focus.
Sure, the barrels for this launch come from LDI, a indisputable fact that sure corners of the web’s cottage business of cynicism have brazenly decried. Nonetheless, they’re additionally inextricably linked to Maryland “rye royalty” when it comes to each provenance and branding. As aforementioned, these barrels had been then aged an extra two years in Maryland (as soon as Henry Wright Jr. realized he had them) and blended by two of the Mid Atlantic area’s most trusted palates. A direct indication of this union could be noticed on the entrance label of every expression which reads, “bottled by Henry M. Wright & Co. Inc. Baltimore, Maryland.”
Hopefully this backstory has abated some eye rolling from those that would query why “Maryland Heritage” is releasing rye from Indiana, however even those that would possibly quibble over the branding can absolutely agree one factor issues above all: is it any good? To seek out out for myself, I might be tasting all three releases facet by facet as we speak. I acquired these three samples courtesy of Blake Riber of Seelbachs.com, and I’d wish to thank him sincerely for sharing them with me (thanks Blake!) I’ll be attempting them within the order they had been launched, which signifies that first up is Mount Vernon Straight Rye Whiskey.
As an ironic inadvertent tie-in with historical past, it needs to be stated right here that when Mount Vernon Rye was first bought in 1870 by the Hannis Distilling Co. of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania it was produced in Baltimore, Maryland. That’s to say: we had the reverse of what’s occurring as we speak, the place as soon as an out-of-state model bought Maryland rye now we have now a Maryland model promoting out-of-state rye.
As we speak’s Mount Vernon Straight Rye Whiskey clocks in at barrel proof which is 108.2 (54.1% ABV) and, like all the bottles on this launch, it has been aged for 14 years (12 in Indiana and the ultimate two in Maryland) with a 95% rye and 5% malted barley mash invoice. Obtainable completely at Allview Liquors, Drug Metropolis Pharmacy and Liquors, and Seelbachs.com this expression carries a steered retail worth of $200.
Mount Vernon Straight Rye Whiskey – Overview
Shade: Marigold with glints of honeyed yellow.
On the nostril: Caramel, crimson apple, and faint sherbert, which give solution to a baking spice rubbed orange rind, are the primary aromas to entice. Maple syrup options prominently on the nostril as effectively. Over time the caramel apple and maple notes grow to be extra effusive forming a wealthy candy medley. That is simply the sweetest and most fruit-forward nostril of the bunch which is true up my alley.
Within the mouth: It fully coats the tongue and has a wealthy caramel creaminess that simply lasts and lasts. Notes of crimson apple, vanilla pod, and maple syrup take turns swirling round with the apple word most outstanding on the entrance finish whereas the vanilla pod pops at midpalate and maple syrup comes sauntering in on the end the place it clings to the again of the palate. Mellow clove is clear all through together with delicate, candy oak. It has a pleasant full mouthfeel that carries simply sufficient heft with out changing into a distraction. Lastly, I didn’t discover all of it that drying, which could be anticipated with a whiskey this outdated. Moderately, the end appears to coat the palate earlier than slowly dissipating which whets the urge for food for repeat sips.
Conclusions:
Properly, hey there! This can be a “bourbon drinker’s rye,” because the wealthy, well-developed candy notes take heart stage and are solely later joined by some slight clove spice, vanilla, and cardamom. That includes nice steadiness regardless of skewing so candy, and with a depth of taste solely achieved by affected person getting old, that is certainly an distinctive pour.
At $200 it does really feel a bit ambitiously priced, and thus I’m inclined to dock it some extent, although I’m positive some will argue for it being a worth given its specs. Actually, if I had been to take action myself, I might say that is the most effective worth of the bunch as a consequence of it being essentially the most reasonably priced. Nonetheless, even with the deduction I really feel snug calling this “Very good” on Malt’s price-sensitive scoring bands.
Rating: 7/10
Subsequent, I’ll be attempting the second launch from this sequence, the Sherwood Pure Rye. One fascinating factor I found about this label is that there was a time when “Pure Rye” was an unregulated time period that continuously appeared on Monongahela or Pennsylvania fashion ryes as a manner of distinguishing them from Maryland rye. Previous to amendments to the 1909 Pure Meals & Drug Act, Maryland rye continuously featured components similar to port wine, cherry juice, or caramel coloring which made the excellence vital to customers searching for another fashion. Nonetheless, in time “Pure Rye” got here to be understood as a whiskey that contained at the least 90% of the rye grain.
Once I requested about what mash invoice might need gone into classic Sherwood Pure Rye, George Fotis shared with me that it could have contained a equally excessive rye content material and no corn. He estimates it could have been between 8 to twenty% barley, with the remainder being rye.
Now let’s get into the modern expression which, once more, is 14 yr outdated distillate of LDI’s 95/5 mash invoice. Barrel proof for this launch is 110.4 (55.2%) and it was priced at $250 upon launch.
Sherwood Pure Rye – Overview
Shade: Gentle amber with an auburn tint.
On the nostril: Mellow spearmint and wealthy milk chocolate captivated me without delay. Then lemon zest, candy oak, caramelized sugar like a creme brulee high come speeding in after the preliminary whiff. It has a darkish, basic rye nostril that includes a pleasant allspice layer and a contact of hazelnut espresso. Even perhaps a little bit of buttered popcorn? There’s quite a bit to love right here on the nostril.
Within the mouth: Wealthy chocolate and allspice are the speedy stand outs and so they’re adopted shortly thereafter by the mellow spearmint that pulses via every sip. The lemon zest from the nostril exhibits up midpalate earlier than receding to permit the hazelnut to develop on the perimeters of the tongue. This one has a medium to lengthy end and, once more, an important present of steadiness. Over time a bit extra oak and rye spice develop. Texturally it’s a bit leaner than Mount Vernon however that makes it totally different, and never essentially “lower than” because it’s additionally extra advanced.
Conclusions:
Whereas my private desire falls extra in keeping with the flavour profile of the Mount Vernon expression, I feel a wider viewers of rye followers will gravitate in the direction of this Sherwood batch. It has extra basic rye notes with out going overboard on the mint and to my palate there’s almost no dill weed both. As an alternative, there’s a mild herbaceousness joined by some nutmeg over darkish chocolate that makes this a deal with to get pleasure from from begin to end.
Just like the Mount Vernon, it exhibits its age within the type of well-developed flavors and it by no means threatens to be too dry or over-oaked, which is spectacular. With a steered worth $50 over Mount Vernon Rye, it too suffers a bit within the worth division although it’s scrumptious sufficient for me to name it “Very good” as effectively.
Rating: 7/10
Closing out the sequence we have now Sherbrook Unfiltered Straight Rye Whiskey which options primarily the identical specs because the earlier two expressions. Previously a product of the Frank L. Wight Distilling Co. out of Lorely, Maryland, the Sherbrook model was subsequently bought by Hiram Walker Inc. earlier than being shuttered shortly thereafter. The modern model, just like the others on this lineup, is barrel proof at 109.7 (54.9% ABV) and it carries a steered retail worth of $275.
Sherbrook Unfiltered Straight Rye Whiskey – Overview
Shade: Amber via and thru.
On the nostril: Salted toffee, nougat, and leather-based with a nondescript citric undercurrent -like cinnamon sprinkled marmalade – invite me in at first. Quickly, notes of stewed crimson apple start to bubble up with each whiff. Clove plus a contact of thyme develop subsequent and I start to note this nostril is a little bit floral with darkish chocolate peeking out from beneath all of it. Once more, there’s a pleasant trace of allspice to remind you it is a rye. General, this strikes me because the “better of each worlds” on this lineup.
Within the mouth: Proper out of the gate this has simply essentially the most oily viscousness of the lineup, because the leather-based and stewed crimson apple instantly plant their flag on the palate. You get the salted toffee and nougat on the again finish the place the darkish chocolate additionally emerges. That is maybe the least drying of the three and has an equally medium-to-long end because the Sherwood Pure Rye. The palate is notably much less floral than the nostril with a bit much less spice as effectively, although clove does translate properly on the sip. All in all, my sense that this represents the center floor between Mount Vernon and Sherwood appears to be spot on and I’m inclined to consider this was executed deliberately.
Conclusions:
Very good but once more! Credit score belongs to George and Justin for creating three distinct batches from that preliminary 40 barrel lot. In terms of this Sherbrook launch they managed to seize among the alluring sweetness in Mount Vernon Straight Rye, plus the mouth-watering darkish chocolate and array of spice from Sherwood Pure Rye. As a consequence of this, I can perceive them releasing this expression final (and charging the best premium for it) although, once more, I wrestle a bit with the value. As a consequence of this vary’s age and uniqueness I actually perceive its worth level in as we speak’s market however, talking from the patron facet, I additionally don’t really feel snug endorsing it. Vulnerable to sounding like a damaged file, it is a incredible whiskey that’s held again a bit by Malt’s price-sensitive requirements.
Rating: 7/10
Frank’s Ultimate Ideas:
Did I actually give all three of those the identical rating? I feel it’s warranted given their exorbitant worth tags and distinctive, however not-quite-transcendent high quality. To make sure, these are among the finest ryes that I’ve had the pleasure of having fun with this yr, and so they’re additionally exceptionally blended to create three distinctive but complimentary batches.
Although I’ve argued above towards their pricing, I feel it’s troublesome to disregard that in 2022 these are extra “norm” than “exception.” With such a low bottle depend coupled with a hefty age assertion these ryes are a rarity in as we speak’s whiskey world and that’s earlier than you take into account their provenance and connection to native lore (sure, despite the fact that they had been distilled in Indiana).
To maintain issues easy, I might like to personal all three of those bottles – and would have awarded all three an 8/10 if worth weren’t a consideration – however I might be inclined to purchase essentially the most reasonably priced of the bunch: Mount Vernon Rye. I can simply perceive if others take into account this the third better of the bunch based mostly on private desire, however I additionally assume that’s a part of the purpose.
There’s one thing on this lineup that can impress even essentially the most hardened cynic as they every capably cater to a special crowd. Loved in succession, they present an exquisite breadth of taste and deserve the enthusiastic viewers they’ve garnered since first being introduced. Value gripes apart, I’ve to applaud George Fotis and Justin Jarvis for this unimaginable inaugural foray into mixing. I most positively can’t wait to see what comes subsequent from the Maryland Heritage Collection.
