“And as he journeyed, he got here close to Damascus: and out of the blue there shined spherical about him a light-weight from heaven and he fell to the earth, and heard a voice saying unto him, Saul, Saul, why persecutest thou me?” – Acts 9:3-4
I am going to let you know some issues which may shock you. The primary is a narrative of a conversion which, if not fairly Damascene, at the very least represents a dramatic reversal from my prior orientation. The second is the story of a distillery doing issues that others solely dream of.
Repeat readers and people who observe me on social media could concentrate on my longstanding skepticism of the Michter’s model. I supplied a historical past of the unique distillery after I tried the King Tut decanter again in 2020. I actually hit my salty stride, nonetheless, with my evaluate of the Barrel Energy Rye. In that piece, I criticized the corporate’s repurposing of a legacy model to promote sourced whiskey with little transparency in regards to the precise contents of the bottle.
The conclusion, particularly, introduced my most cynical tackle the possible way forward for Michter’s. I posited that they’d been so profitable with the sourced mannequin that it appeared unlikely we’d ever get unadulterated distillate from Michter’s personal stills, and that the veil of the model’s “pre-Revolutionary Warfare” mythos would proceed to hinder our skill to glean something about what truly constitutes Michter’s whiskey.
I used to be due to this fact astounded after I obtained an electronic mail from Michter’s proprietor, Joe Magliocco. It was phrased in a complimentary method and included an invite to go to Michter’s, to see the corporate’s operations in particular person the subsequent time I discovered myself in Kentucky. I responded with cordial thanks for the supply and promised to be again in contact forward of my upcoming journey to Louisville.
I respect this strategy immensely. Typically, the easiest way to ingratiate oneself with a enterprise and its proprietor just isn’t posting and tweeting disrespectful snark continuously for a number of years. So, the truth that Michter’s was prepared to let me examine firsthand spoke to a excessive diploma of conviction within the integrity of no matter they have been doing down there in Shively.
However, the cynical interpretation of this technique can be obvious. Just like the little child within the schoolyard who punches the thing of their affection, I’m positive at the very least one critic has made a nuisance of themselves within the hopes of being bribed to close up with a VIP distillery go to or an unobtainable bottle. To paraphrase Lyndon Johnson: Michter’s maybe determined that it was higher to have me “contained in the tent pissing out than outdoors pissing in.”
There was just one method to discover out which of those potential interpretations was the true one. As quickly as I finalized my journey plans, I obtained in contact with Joe and made preparations to come back go to the Shively distillery. He agreed to accommodate three of my buddies as nicely; I’m noting all this within the spirit of full transparency.
We have been met on the Shively distillery by Joe, in addition to Grasp Distiller Dan McKee (previously Distillery Supervisor at Beam’s Booker Noe distillery in Boston, KY) and Grasp of Maturation Andrea Wilson (previously Director of Distillation and Maturation, North America at Diageo).
Joe Magliocco speaks with Brooklyn accent, although gently, with a tonal softness infused with what feels like a really serene type of pleasure. His eyes are form but in addition inquisitive, in a disarming method. He’s a sensible man (Yale undergrad and Harvard Legislation) however he’s humble, fast to confess when a few of the finer factors of whiskey chemistry are past his ken. All through our tour of the distillery, he greeted each worker we encountered personally, the overwhelming majority of them by first title. He was coping with me generously, after all, however I additionally obtained the sense that he’s a beneficiant man.
This impression was definitely bolstered by most of the anecdotes relayed by Andrea and Matt throughout our four-plus hours collectively. At quite a few factors all through our go to, they identified areas the place no expense was spared on constructing building or the acquisition of apparatus. Although many people share the dream of opening their very own distillery and doing all the things “proper” – value be damned – the exigencies of economics and the pursuits of traders and lenders normally imply these plans stay solely desires.
Our tour started within the liquid processing space, the place barrels of rye have been being dumped in preparation for bottling beneath the US1 Barrel Energy label. We have been in a position to maintain our Glencairns beneath the stream of whiskey gushing from the barrel and – lastly – I had my first style of correct Michter’s whiskey, distilled and matured and bottled by the up to date distillery. Extra on that in a bit…
At this level, we realized the three-phase historical past of Michter’s in its reincarnated state. The primary section entailed the acquisition of the deserted trademark for a nominal sum (a number of hundred {dollars} in administrative charges) and the reestablishment of the model utilizing sourced barrels.
The second section consisted of promoting barrels of whiskey contract distilled to Michter’s personal specs, notably the decrease barrel entry proof of 103 (51.5% ABV). Although Joe cites a nondisclosure settlement as his motive to not disclose the distillery of origin, I’ve seen it rumored that it was the Early Occasions distillery, owned by Michter’s present neighbor Brown-Forman. The truth that Brown-Forman was the prior employer of then-Grasp Distiller Willie Pratt additionally factors towards this being a risk.
We’re presently within the third section, during which the bourbon and rye whiskey distilled on the Shively distillery (the primary barrel was stuffed in August 2015) has matured to the focused five-to-seven 12 months age, and now helps Michter’s core US1 bourbon, rye, and American whiskey expressions (the ten 12 months, 20 12 months, and 25 12 months age said expressions nonetheless depend on sourced inventory in the interim).
I requested Andrea (in a follow-up electronic mail) in regards to the transition between the phases, and that is what she needed to say:
Malt: At what level did Michter’s start to maneuver from section two (contract distilled whiskey within the bottle) to Section 3 (personal distillate within the bottle)?
Andrea: We put in our 46 foot excessive, 32 inch diameter column nonetheless and our 250 gallon pot nonetheless doubler system in 2014. After a number of months of distilling white canine on the then new to us system, we have been snug in August of 2015 that the section three distillate was chemically and organoleptically nearly equivalent to the Section 2 distillate, and it was that month that we began to barrel our Shively distillate.
Malt: Are all of the core expressions (US1 bourbon, rye, bitter mash, and American, and their corresponding toasted barrel and barrel energy expressions) solely Michter’s personal distillate now?
Andrea: We style barrels and launch them after they obtain a sure taste profile (not all barrels age the identical in our opinion) that we search for the product, reasonably than releasing barrels strictly based mostly on their age. Our goal for releasing US1 barrels is 5 to seven years. Provided that we began barreling our Shively distillate about six years and 10 months in the past, the overwhelming quantity – however not completely all of – US1 we’re releasing now was distilled by us at Shively.
What I got here to see and find out about was the method by which this whiskey is made, and whether or not that course of interprets to superior aromas and flavors within the bottle and glass.
Beginning at first, we watched a truckload of malted barley get unloaded and checked for high quality. All of the grain Michter’s is utilizing is non-GMO. Although I requested, mash payments stay “proprietary.” I’ve learn that the Early Occasions bourbon mash invoice of 79% corn, 11% rye, and 10% malted barley is the one used however Joe, Andrea, and Dan stay tight-lipped about this side of the manufacturing course of. Michter’s additionally has a farm in Springfield, KY (southeast of Bardstown) the place it’s rising its personal corn.
We then moved alongside to fermentation, which takes between three and 5 days, per Dan. He declined to debate fermentation temperatures. This led us to the stills, which encompass a 46 foot, 32 inch diameter column nonetheless plus a pot nonetheless “doubler.” Proof off the second nonetheless is 138, which is then decreased (as famous above) to 103 for barrel entry.
Entering into the lab, we have been in a position to marvel on the array of apparatus out there to the pair of scientists there ensconced. Dan talked about that requests for brand new tools weren’t denied, and that they’d basically “misplaced monitor” of how a lot had been spent kitting out the place. One motive for that is that the transition between section two (contract distillate) and section three (personal distillate) demanded that the 2 be as shut as potential, chemically in addition to organoleptically.
At this level we obtained to style Michter’s new make, which is a captivating examine in contrasts. On the one hand, the nostril is comprised of floral and ripe fruity notes, and expressive grain. The mouthfeel, however, could be very hefty, with growth of licorice notes and an oily texture. It was clear at this level that nice consideration had been paid to taste creation through the manufacturing phases previous to the whiskey getting into the barrel.
We have been then proven into the onsite barrel getting older warehouse, which holds greater than 14,000 barrels. Michter’s has extra warehouses on its farm in Springfield. In contrast to the metallic clad rickhouses (usually seven to 9 tales tall) that dot the Kentucky panorama, this three flooring warehouse is constructed of concrete and insulated. Throughout the winter, the warehouses are warmth cycled (warmed up and cooled down); Andrea declined to reveal the period of those cycles, however famous that present process this course of added the equal of an additional six months of maturity for yearly (e.g. a six 12 months previous barrel would style extra much like a 9 12 months previous barrel from a traditional rickhouse).
Michter’s barrels are manufactured from air dried staves, with that course of taking between 18 and 60 months to finish. Barrels are toasted previous to charring; this provides expense, as does the decrease barrel entry proof (extra cooperage and storage prices). Maturity for the core expressions is achieved between 5 and 7 years, at which level the barrels are dumped and chill filtered. It’s attention-grabbing to notice {that a} customized, proprietary set of processes has been developed for filtration, with every expression getting its personal tailor-made remedy.
On the conclusion of our tour, we have been invited upstairs to a complete tasting of Michter’s whiskeys. We began with a comparability of two US1 Ryes: one on the 103 barrel entry proof, and one other on the most permissible 125 proof (each samples have been proofed all the way down to bottling energy for tasting). The decrease barrel entry proof whiskey certainly tasted higher, whereas the upper barrel entry proof had extra tannic extraction and harshness on the palate.
This was adopted by an encyclopedic tour of fifteen extra whiskeys. By way of all of them, a signature word (apricot) emerged, in addition to a normal sense of above common (typically nicely above common) high quality. We ascended the vary till we reached the coveted 20 12 months, 25 12 months, and Celebration expressions. This latter whiskey, a mix of six barrels (4 rye, two bourbon) is an distinctive and scrumptious expertise loaded with notes of orange, crème brûlée, and honey.
OK, actuality verify: this was a tasting that almost all bourbon followers would give a left appendage for. The ten 12 months age said bottles alone are rarities (by no means thoughts the 20 and 25 12 months) whereas the SRP on the final launch of Celebration was $5,000. Lest they depart something to likelihood, Michter’s spoiled every of us with a bottle of their Restricted Launch Barrel Energy Bourbon to take residence. Additionally they served us lunch, in my case a really delicious BLT.
How may I presumably keep any objectivity after an expertise like this? How may any evaluate of a Michter’s whiskey by me retain a shred of credibility? I’ve laid this all out with the intention to choose for your self whether or not I’ve been compromised past redemption by Joe and Co’s generosity with their time, insights, and (particularly) their whiskey.
With that stated, let me let you know why I used to be excited to take a seat down and write this evaluate. It didn’t must do with the ego stroke of being handled like an enormous shot (I’m not one) at a well-known distillery, with a lavish array of unicorn whiskeys laid out for my enjoyment. Was it a pleasant expertise? The nicest. Wouldn’t it have enticed me to say form issues about Michter’s whiskey, even when it have been horrible (it’s not) and overpriced (usually, at SRP, it isn’t)? I wish to assume that my integrity would forbid it, however we’re all fallible creatures with peculiar weaknesses.
The explanation that I’m excited to be scripting this piece – even now, having come off the excessive of my go to – is that I’m a person on a relentless hunt for excellent tales to inform, and Michter’s has turned out to be an incredible story. It’s not the story of Common Washington, and even of Bomberger’s or Shenk’s or any of the predecessor manufacturers related to the shuttered Pennsylvania namesake distillery.
Fairly, it’s the story of a person in the appropriate place on the proper time, who took a model of which he (and a few potential clients) have been fond, and breathed a second life into it. Extra importantly, that preliminary success purchased the time and supplied the monetary assets to rent some very certified folks to facilitate a seamless, profitable pivot to the distillery’s personal manufacturing.
From the second the rye whiskey straight from the barrel touched my lips, I knew I used to be in for a significant reconsideration of all the things I had beforehand thought and stated about Michter’s. It was scrumptious, with a personality and a character all its personal. It was clearly very, superb whiskey, produced (because it seems) by certified of us empowered to make the entire proper selections at each step of the method.
I can really feel myself veering into maudlin territory right here, so I’m going to cease the paean to Michter’s – Michter’s circa 2022, the Michter’s of at this time – and evaluate a few of their whiskey. As famous above, this was a bottle gifted to me by Michter’s, they usually have my honest thanks for that and all the remainder of all the things that preceded it.
For our consideration, we have now the Restricted Launch Barrel Energy Bourbon. That is barrel #21J2889, bottled at barrel energy of 111.4 proof (55.7% ABV). SRP for this expression is $100, per Andrea. As soon as once more, for good measure: this was a present of the distillery which is way appreciated, however won’t have an effect on my notes or rating. Earlier than we start, although, a number of additional feedback from Andrea:
Malt: Are you able to affirm for me that that is Michter’s personal distillate? Some other particulars referring to age, or in any other case, that you just may be capable of share?
Andrea: This bottle was from a barrel distilled by us at Shively that upon tasting had actually fantastic maturity at about 5 years previous. As mentioned throughout our go to, it was barreled at 103 proof and aged in toasted then charred barrels product of 18 month air dried wooden. The barrel was saved in our warmth cycled warehouse which in our expertise provides about six months of additional maturing high quality per 12 months saved, despite the fact that we can’t declare that on the label.
Michter’s US1 Restricted Launch Barrel Energy Bourbon – Overview
Colour: Medium-dark golden brown.
On the nostril: The nostril has a number of layers that may be delineated via focus. The topmost layer is a cheerful mixture of recent reduce spring flowers and confectioners sugar. Shifting down a layer, I decide up the wealthy, fruity notes that emerged in my aforementioned tasting as Michter’s hallmarks: apricots, sure, but in addition clementines, and a really ripe pear. Lastly, this transitions all the way down to the underside layer of latest leather-based, cashews, volcanic rock, and a surprisingly intense umami word of teriyaki sauce.
Within the mouth: This begins with a wedding of tart fruit and austere limestone notes within the entrance of the mouth. The whiskey floats gently towards the middle of the palate on a river of freshly squeezed fruit juice, with piquant accents of cinnamon and a few calmly woody affect that shift abruptly into a really nice, calmly candy and creamy word of cherry flavored ice cream on the middle of the mouth. Turning once more towards chalky and sugary notes, the end is then resolved in the identical method because the nostril began, with lingering floral flavors and a faint accent of mocha. The stony notes stick with a drying texture that pairs with a red-pepper inflected radiant warmth all through the mouth.
Conclusions:
Evaluated in isolation: this is excellent whiskey. It has numerous aromas and flavors which are every expressive individually, however which play properly collectively. The highlights are the fruity notes on the nostril and mouth, although the general expertise advantages from extra nuances at each the excessive (floral, candy) and low (earthy, savory) ends of the register. It doesn’t slap you within the face, however it’s no much less charming for its subtlety; every sip leaves the tongue begging for the subsequent, and it might be straightforward to make this bottle disappear in a comparatively brief time period.
Contemplating this within the spectrum of presently out there barrel proof bourbon expressions: it’s priced at a premium to Elijah Craig Barrel Proof however is a very completely different fashion of bourbon. ECBP is a bruiser from a 125 barrel entry proof, often coming in above 140 within the bottle, whereas this can be a 103 barrel entry proof bottled within the mid-50’s ABV. The result’s a marked distinction in presentation, neither good nor unhealthy, however this can be extra to the tastes of people that need barrel proof bourbon however desire a much less brusque, extra elegant whiskey. It’s comparable in that regard to Maker’s Mark Cask Energy (normally round 110 proof; $40) or Uncommon Breed (Roughly 115 proof; $60), although a bit costlier than each. It’s not practically as previous as ECBP (12 years), and sure not as previous because the youngest whiskey in MMCS or Uncommon Breed, however it doesn’t should be. All the things this could have, it does, however it comes at a worth.
Additional, not like these different merchandise, this can be a single barrel reasonably than a batched expression. I’d be eager to learn the way a lot barrel-to-barrel variation there may be? Based mostly on Andrea’s feedback in regards to the measurement and building of the warehouses and the consistency achieved via warmth biking, I’d be prepared to wager that there’s much less deviation across the imply with these, however I’d be completely satisfied to check that principle scientifically. As Andrea stated above: not all barrels age the identical.
In consideration of all this and reflecting the truth that I might be an prepared repeat purchaser of this whiskey if I have been capable of finding it at SRP, but in addition reflecting that it is available in a significant premium to its competitors, that I’m giving it a optimistic rating akin to “Nice” on our price-sensitive scoring bands.
Rating: 6/10
As a postscript, I ought to word that I supplied Joe, Andrea, and Dan some constructive criticism towards the top of our time collectively. Michter’s has an incredible story to inform, however it’s not at all times the story that will get informed by or about Michter’s. To the extent that Michter’s is prepared to drop the “Pre-Revolutionary Warfare” language which nonetheless adorns their labels, I imagine there is a chance to refocus the narrative.
What I noticed at Michter’s impressed me, and I imagine it might be equally spectacular to the sorts of of us who learn Malt. Being free of penny-pinching has empowered the distillery and all its workers to emphasise the weather that matter. Substances with integrity, a manufacturing course of which creates exemplary taste even earlier than the whiskey hits the barrel, and a maturation regime that manages to supply some scrumptious whiskey in a relatively brief time period. What’s popping out of Michter’s proper now could be wonderful, and I’ve each motive to imagine there may be extra and higher to come back.
I’m completely satisfied for the chance to have realized about this firsthand, and much more glad that I’ve been in a position to share this story with you all. There are classes for everyone (producer, shopper, and critic) in right here, in addition to some nice tasting whiskey, and you’ll’t ask for way more than that.
