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| Hello, that is one in all our (virtually) every day tastings. Santé! |
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September 18, 2021
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Angus’s Nook
From our correspondent and
expert taster Angus MacRaild in Scotland |
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| New Ben Nevis 10yo plus sparring companions |
| There is a new Ben Nevis 10yo out and about which could be very pleasing, let’s attempt it at the moment together with a number of different appropriate Ben Nevi. Sadly I haven’t got the brand new NAS bottling at hand so cannot do them face to face. |
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Ben Nevis 10 yo (46%, OB, 2021) 
A tasteful and assured wanting re-branding for those who ask me. I all the time suppose a number of clean area is relatively cool and highly effective on a label. Though, it does look fairly ‘Japanese’, if I’ll say so… Color: straw. Nostril: impressively, and instantly, ‘old style’. A number of chalk, waxes, plaster, limestone and white flowers. Feels nearer to those late 90s batches in profile than among the sweeter latest batches. Goes on with some lemon peel, waxy citrons, hay, and barley water. Splendidly pure and, if I’ll say so, uncommercial. Mouth: beautiful fats and waxy arrival, a number of olive oil, mild ointments, pure barley derived sweetness and encroaching unique fruits ala the 1996s. Great texture within the mouth and ‘presence’, makes you marvel in the event that they have not added one or two older casks to the combo? End: good size, oiliness, malt extract, waxes, citrus oils, very calmly medicinal and gently natural. Feedback: I dread to suppose what number of far, far costlier whiskies can be unceremoniously slaughtered by this and Springbank 10yo. That is charming, vastly characterful, exact, distinctive, extraordinarily nicely balanced and, most significantly, completely scrumptious. Somebody dangerously intelligent was behind this…
SGP: 562 – 89 factors.
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I do not do a month-to-month ‘Bang For Your Buck’ bottling on Whiskyfun, but when I did, it is arduous to think about what would possibly topple that wee Ben Nevis.
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Glencoe 8 yo ‘Highland Blended Malt’ (58%, OB, 2021) 
I bought this bottle on the distillery final time I used to be passing, solely as a result of they’d no single malt out there in any way – oh, other than silly miniatures. Expensive Nikka… cough *hand fill / distillery unique* cough…please. Color: gold. Nostril: I really discover it extremely paying homage to the exact same model’s Nineteen Eighties batches. Quite a lot of sizzling grist, concrete, porridge, aspirin, crushed ferns – all relatively large, highly effective and austere. Takes no prisoners and possibly extra ‘difficult’ than many peated malts. Goes on with a humorous mixture of golden syrup and mashed potatoes. With water: not notably ‘simpler’ by any stretch, however maybe extra rounded, extra bread, oils, toolbox rags, metallic polish and a barely sweeter facet. Mouth: large, grizzly and sizzling. A number of sweetened cooking oils, pink pepper, vase water, mineral oils and wee touches of camphor and putty. Chunky whisky that you simply would possibly break a tooth on for those who’re not cautious. With water: nonetheless very peppery, spiky and sizzling. However fairly a little bit of golden syrup on brown bread now too, which provides richness and weight. Barley sugars and a few fudge. End: medium, spicy, peppery and with some candy malt extract and stout beer. Feedback: it is relatively charming that that is nonetheless each inch the unsexy and tricksy monster because it was within the 80s and earlier. No thought what quantity of Ben Nevis goes into this – or which different malts. I’ve heard Tomintoul talked about earlier than however that appears fanciful given how boisterous that is. Good enjoyable for highballs and rusty nails in all probability.
SGP: 571 – 81 factors.
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Ben Nevis 9 yo 2012/2021 (53%, Dram Mor, cask #115, 1st fill palo cortado end, 351 bottles) 
Color: pale gold. Nostril: a relatively tart, crisp and sharp sherry affect that leaves an impression of salinity and even acidity at first nosing. Brown bread, hessian, lambic ales, preserved darkish fruits and a fairly dry, punchy earthiness. With water: a sprig of mint, some eucalyptus, sugary black tea and hessian. Mouth: pink berries, extra bready notes, pickled walnuts, camphor, tarragon, aniseed and varied roots and herbs. To date it feels a tad easy however punchy and fairly good. With water: sweeter, some citrus curds, barley water, bitter marmalade – stable! End: relatively lengthy and on cinnamon and aniseed boiled sweets, cough mixtures and barley sugars. Abruptly all relatively old style confectionary focussed! Feedback: a bit robust at instances and tough spherical the perimeters in locations, however I believe the end labored fairly nicely right here, there is a ruggedness about it which is fulfilling.
SGP: 562 – 84 factors.
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Ben Nevis 10 yo 2010/2021 (56.7%, The Duchess, Shiraz cask end, cask #1800020, 317 bottles)
No scarcity of Geese and diverse different wildlife on whisky labels because the Nineteen Eighties it might appear… Color: rose gold. Nostril: barely lactic at first, some sort of bitter cherry beer, forest fruits yoghurt, sourdough bread starter, rose champagne and wee touches of hessian and mineral oil. I discover it a wee bit disjointed and sharp, however not with out its charms. Fortunately the wine is not too excessive. With water: barely dusty, on plasticine, plain barley, digestives, white flowers. Additionally chlorophyl and pink chilli oil. Getting relatively sizzling and spicy now in actual fact. Mouth: good physique on arrival, oils, putty, damsons, dried flowers, pot pourri. Turns into a tad extra unlikely with pink fruit gums and pink liquorice. Grains and cereals, mashed potato, olive oil, putty. Humorous stuff, however extra ‘enjoyable’ than ‘stuff’ (Angus, WTF?!) With water: at its greatest I’d say, there’s some properly oily, spicy and calmly waxy Ben Nevis coming by means of loud and clear, however there’s this slight however particular wine affect that I do battle with a bit it have to be mentioned. End: good size, returning to chilli, strawberry sherbet, white pepper, olive oil and mustard powder. Feedback: Various enjoyable general, however these sorts of wine finishes aren’t actually my cup of malt I am afraid.
SGP: 651 – 82 factors.
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Let’s have a number of extra for those who do not thoughts…
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I’ve to say Angus’s wonderful tasting notice for the brand new 10 have sort of teased me whereas there’s just one technique to retaliate, attempt a number of extra Ben Nevisses (Ben Nevi?), roughly as they arrive and even when Saturday will not be my official day…
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Ben Nevis 5 yo 2016/2021 ‘Peated’ (46%, Signatory Classic for LMDW, The Un-chillfiltered Assortment, cask #202, 350 bottles) 
Very younger and but already completed with wine, this time Montravel, a little-known French wine, which is a part of Bergerac within the south-west (Dordogne, not too removed from Bordeaux). As I typically say, would you prefer to study extra about wine? Purchase Scotch whisky! Color: gold. Nostril: it does take it and possibly grew to become actually earthier, whereas touches of overripe bananas would begin to seem, in addition to all types of Christmas tea mixes. Like star anise, cinnamon, cardamom, clove and ginger. Use good water at 80°C, brew that tea slowly, filter out, throw away and have this Ben Nevis as an alternative. There’s additionally a fairly coastal saltiness, ‘a stroll on the seashore at low tide together with your moist canine’ and so forth. Mouth: some sort of curry sauce, actually. Chili, wasabi, curry certainly… I’d advocate dim-sums and even tandooris, and a variety of water. A great deal of inexperienced bell pepper too, some dried inexperienced apples, fairly some leather-based and relatively a number of bits of cigarette tobacco. Untipped Craven “A” (no matter).End: lengthy, you’d virtually consider you have simply eaten some water pipe tobacco. One thing Turkish or Egyptian, maybe. Feedback: extraordinarily uncommon, at instances somewhat difficult, very spicy, and fairly ‘meta’. Very troublesome to attain, you can not simply suppose contained in the field.
SGP:664 – 85 factors. |
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Ben Nevis 7 yo 2013/2021 (46%, Signatory Classic, The Un-chillfiltered Assortment, barrels, casks #421+423) 
Color: whiter than the whitest white wine. Nostril: Ben Nevis to the bone, extraordinarily dry, grassy, with a variety of paraffin and porridge, however relatively little bread. Damp oatcakes (one thing went fallacious) and gravel, concrete… Mouth: a sure and no malt, I’d say. Very good for those who get pleasure from ‘millimetric’ malts (I’ve heard Boris wished to reintroduce previous British measures? I they ever relaunch the Morris Marina, I shall let you know proper now that I will not purchase any!) Lemon and granny smith juices, a sense of plaster, notes of inexperienced pears, inexperienced tea. End: medium, with somewhat extra straight ethanol. The glories of younger ex-ueber-refill malt. Feedback: I believe this works – as a result of it does – as a result of it’s Ben Nevis.
SGP:361 – 81 factors. |
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Ben Nevis 10 yo 2010/2021 (59%, La Maison du Whisky, Artist, bourbon, cask #401, 240 bottles)
One other model new one, I am not even certain it is out but. Pretty labels, as traditional with this arty sequence. Hope they will do a ‘Christo’ sooner or later, with the bottles wrapped in tent canvas. Color: straw. Nostril: surgical spirit at first, then grain whisky (sure) with numerous coconut and marshmallows. You possibly can additionally consider that is bourbon at instances, however I am certain that is all principally as a result of very excessive energy. Somewhat un-Ben Nevis to date. With water: completely not the identical whisky, as Ben Nevis’s greasy, mineral fatness is beginning to come out, with some pistachio oil, plasticine, new iPhone field (warning, could include a brand new iPhone), sourdough, recent lemon cake from this morning… Mouth (neat): oh nice. Arduous to say why, due to the energy, however there is a lemon-drop high quality to this that is very nice. With water: as soon as once more issues get tighter, extra mineral, nonetheless lemony, extra tropical as nicely. Ardour fruits and ‘airplane’ mangos, white tea… All in all it stays a relatively civilised Ben Nevis, no mad horse this time. Is {that a} common pattern in Fort Williams? Some peatier batches ala Longrow and then again, some gentler ones ala Hazelburn? And no extra ‘Springbanks’? (with apologies to all model homeowners and entitled companions). End: medium, candy and simple. Will get much more floral, violet bonbons from Toulouse, poppy bonbons, orange squash… Feedback: I like this model so much too, it is simply a lot softer and relatively much less idiosyncratic. Ha, that phrase.
SGP: 641- 87 factors. |
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Ben Nevis 2012/2021 (59.3%, Swell de Spirits, Wonders of The World, first fill oloroso, cask #1902) 
Color: mild gold. It is actually a brand new factor that 1st fill oloroso would impart this little color. Nostril: I appear to identify some sootier tones right here and there but it surely’s arduous to say whether or not that stems from the spirit or from the cask. It is clearly fermentary, having mentioned that (bread dough, beer). With water: yess! Bidis, inexperienced cigars and walnuts – the sherry doing its job in a relatively fino-y method – sourdough, somewhat mint tea, some chalkiness… That is extra basic Ben Nevis. Mouth (neat): large, fats, lemony, waxy, fairly pungent. Wasabi aged in wooden. Inexperienced oranges too. It is really somewhat brutal however keep in mind, virtually 60%. With water: beautiful certainly. Chalky lemons, soot, ashes, inexperienced pepper, paraffin, horseradish, then orange blossom water and earl gray. Peppery rhythm part. End: lengthy, relatively on bitter oranges. Turmeric and ginseng powder, maybe (I am feeling higher already)… Feedback: a wee step above, I’d say.
SGP:461 – 88 factors. |
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Ben Nevis 22 yo 1998/2021 (47.4%, The Whisky Blues and The Alcohol Bar, hogshead, cask #1574, 237 bottles)
Pretty wee label, these are twenty Beethovens, are they not? By the way in which, these beautiful persons are situated in Taiwan. No, not Ben Nevis after all. Color: pale white wine. Nostril: oh, rubber boots and new scuba diving outfit! Is not it humorous that some notes can be deemed as defective in different whiskies, and never in Ben Nevis? Candles, copper polish, exhaust pipe, soot, concrete, dunnage warehouse… So typical pre-Y2K Ben Nevis, and with flying colors. Mouth: there, chalk, soot and paraffin, plus a number of olives and relatively a variety of horseradish and pepper. Implacably Ben Nevis, hope they maintain making this model too… End: lengthy, with extra lemon past the relatively big peppery and chalky facet. Feedback: superb vintages. I actually hope they have not damaged – or misplaced – the mould.
SGP:462 – 89 factors. |
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I believe we must always go on for a short while and carry on tackling the larger vintages…
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Ben Nevis 24 yo 1997/2021 (43.2%, Thompson Bros., refill hogshead, 357 bottles)
An unusually low energy. Sure this have to be pure cask energy, I am prepared to place my badge on it. Color: pale gold. Nostril: oh, marzipan and plasticine, how typical certainly. Pistachio oil certainly, camphor, damaged branches, moisturiser, crushed strawberries, then wooden oils, teak, thuja, cedar… Additionally jasmine… It is actually advanced, these noses are sometimes great, I imply when the energy received low, however naturally, it is on the palate that the reality ought to lie… Mouth: it’s a little lightish certainly, however this lime-y improvement and a few elevated general acidity simply retains it excessive within the skies. Precisely what would occur with some scary and but fabulous low-strength northern-German rieslings. Hoppla! Secondary notes: papayas, granny smith, star fruit, inexperienced tea, recent almonds, seaweed, nori… End: with medium size however saltier but. Feedback: close to excellent.
SGP:552 – 89 factors. |
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A remaining 24 yo for the highway…
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Ben Nevis 24 yo 1996/2021 (45.8%, Hunter Laing, First Editions for KHK, refill hogshead, cask #HL08139, 266 bottles)
In malt whisky, pink’s in vogue, it appears. Color: white wine. Nostril: it is a straight, austere, waxy, oily one, relatively on these recent almonds certainly, damaged branches once more, asparagus peel, lemon peel, inexperienced walnuts, then somewhat lemon oil and avocado cream. Oh and touches of chalk and soot, naturally, plus somewhat barley sugar, syrup, a wee glass of mash… Mouth: we’re fairly near the Thompson’s, naturally, this has just a bit extra acidity, lemons, grapefruits, granny smith, star fruit, inexperienced gooseberries… Then again, and relatively consequently, it is a notch much less advanced. End: medium, on chalky grapefruits, with touches of icing sugar and sweetened or relatively honeyed natural teas, lemongrass… The aftertaste is comparatively candy. Feedback: so, 1996, Ben Nevis or Clynelish? That is your homework over the weekend, good luck.
SGP:552 – 88 factors. |
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