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| Hello, that is one among our (nearly) every day tastings. Santé! |
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August 22, 2021
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Just a few little homes have just lately gained a lot respect from inside whisky circles and admittedly, that was all completely deserved. You had been having Jean Grosperrin, then got here Vallein Tercinier, then Jean-Luc Pasquet, Maison Prunier… These very sensible and beautiful folks have understood, sooner than others maybe, that past absolute high quality, whisky folks had been searching for energy (adios 40% vol.) and doubtless a tad extra ‘brighter oomph’ (for lack of a greater expression, my unhealthy). And definitely not ‘outdated oak juice’.
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A conventional ‘chai’ (Confrérie du Cognac) |
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Oh and plenty of whisky folks are likely to consider that obscuration is a plague, similar to foolish decanters. Good, let’s attempt a couple of new ones, however first, perhaps a humorous apéritif that I used to be having in a field…
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Soberano ‘5’ (36%, OB, Gonzalez Byass, Spanish brandy, +/-2015) 
Apparently, it is a status cuvée however nowhere does it say that ‘5’ is the variety of years this was matured for. Color: amber. Nostril: caramel galore then dried black raisins and varied roasted nuts. Touches of Kahlua and different espresso liqueurs, and positively molasses. Not completely disagreeable, would I say, however in all probability finest whereas on trip in Spain with excellent, easy-going, not nit-picking mates. Mouth: gentle and candy however not completely liqueur-sweet, actually not with no added sugar although, on American workplace espresso, gentle rums, raisins, molasses… Nicely the factor is that there is nearly no physique (in two phrases). Extra workplace espresso on the finish of the day. End: very quick and skinny, however reasonably clear and never too ridden with sugar. Feedback: fairly okay, actually, I used to be anticipating a lot worse but.
SGP:620 – 65 factors. |
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Extra brandy please… Keep in mind cognac is a wine brandy, branntwein = burnt wine = brandy, however each phrases, burnt and wine, should be taken liberally on this context. True, wine brandy could possibly be seen as a pleonasm (burnt wine made out of wine) however it’s not, wine merely being the results of the alcoholic fermentation of fruits and even grain (low wine). Anyway…
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Petite Champagne 1992 (46.9%, Jean Grosperrin, L839, +/-2021) 
Color: gold. Nostril: crazily fragrant, stuffed with sweets (even banana foam) and preserved peaches and apricots, with a pineau-y aspect, notes of wine from Monbazillac, even gewurztraminer, honeysuckle and clover honey, plus essentially the most distinctive maple syrup ever and lastly some recent mint leaves within the backyard. Very catchy, very pretty. Mouth: reasonably creamy, tighter and grassier – it could not have been fruitier anyway – with oranges and tangerines and touches of liquorice and caraway. Increasingly marmalade over time, which is simply very tremendous. Very pretty drop. End: medium, very fruity once more, with roasted apricots and some liquorice allsorts. Feedback: let’s play a little bit sport at this time, known as ‘if it was malt whisky’. This time I might say Balblair 15 years ex-refill sherry.
SGP:641 – 88 factors. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet V.84 A.36 (53.8%, Previous Grasp Spirits, Grande Champagne, 168 bottles, 2021) 
Clearly a 36 ans d’âge from the 1984 classic. Keep in mind, in cognac vintages confer with the harvest, to not when it was distilled. Having stated that, they can not await various months, so a 1984 should have been distilled both in 1984 or early in 1985. Color: gentle amber. Nostril: one other advanced fruity cognac. I am first getting whiffs of spearmint and citrons, completely superior that, then actually an awesome Sauternes. I do know it is a bit quick and clumsy to say ‘Sauternes’ on this context, however consider me, it noses like an awesome outdated, say Barsac. Apricots, rose petals, wild berries, honeysuckle, juicy tangerines… What a nostril. With water: it might go form of topical. Guavas and bananas, nothing too extravagant. Mouth (neat): I am reminded of outdated bourbons for a wee whereas (rye and oak) earlier than some liquorice and demerara sugar would take over, solely to unleash an avalanche of ripe and jammy fruits. Peaches, apricots and raisins, naturally, additionally oranges and pomegranates. With water: pretty, feeling reasonably a little bit youthful. Add melons to the basket. End: medium, recent, with touches of vanilla and that spearmint that is again, then candyfloss and toffee apple. Feedback: I am unsure you’d guess that is 36. Completely beautiful; if it was malt whisky, it might be an ex-hogshead Rosebank 20 yo.
SGP:641 – 91 factors. |
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Borderies ‘Héritage N.78-85’ (57.1%, Grosperrin for Cognac Sponge, 165 bottles, 2021)
The cryptic title would counsel that is both a vatting of the 1978 and 1985 vintages, or a mix of varied vintages spanning from 1978 to 1985. Keep in mind Borderies is the smallest cru, however it’s obtained many die-hard afficionados. Such because the Sponge, apparently. Color: deep gold. Nostril: extra rustic than the ‘Champagnes’, tighter, with reasonably extra waxes and even oils (rapeseed, linseed) in addition to crystallised citrus. A jar of crystallised tangerines, for instance. Additionally whiffs of potpourri, which would come with rose petals as soon as once more. With water: the feintest whiffs of teak and thuja wooden, maybe a contact of engine oil. Not a mode that is unseen in one of the best elements of Scotland. Mouth: improbable, extraordinarily tight, even zesty, blade-y, and but wealthy, with out being fats. Nicely I do know what I am making an attempt to say. Very good citrus right here, lemon curd, maracuja… With water: a couple of oaky tones and a few beeswax, mint and liquorice. I’ve now obtained an thought wrt the whisky comparability… End: medium – cognacs are not often so long as strong malt whiskies – and reasonably on stewed fruits and natural teas. Feedback: a bit extra ‘from the countryside’ than the Champagnes, which is strictly what you’d count on from a Borderies. Very good cognac for positive, whereas if it was malt whisky, it might be a 15-20 yo Clynelish in my view.
SGP:551 – 90 factors. |
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Vallein Tercinier 47 carats ‘Lot 73’ (48.4%, Asta Maurice, Petite Champagne, cask #AMF003, 150 bottles, 2021)
Most likely the 12 months when the US left Vietnam. Color: full gold. Nostril: oh, a type of early Nineteen Sixties Glenmorangies. Keep in mind the 1963? That is bordering perfection, in reality. Marrow quenelles, bouillon, stewed bananas and peaches, menthol and sultanas, oranges, camphor, Pu-her, pink grapefruits, honey sauce, macha… Wow, actually wow. No literature wanted. Mouth: superb that it might kick it off with williams pears, at 47 years of age. You have even obtained notes of poiré (pear cider) and outdated Calvados Domfrontais (I do know I maintain promising a big Calvados session however no worries, it is someplace within the pipe). Now this excellent outdated cognac would are likely to change into a wee tad tea-ish after that beautiful arrival, however that is nothing. There’s some espresso too, chicory espresso maybe, liquorice wooden… End: medium, with reasonably extra sultanas and a few apparent rancio. Feedback: completely wonderful, just a bit much less ‘high-def’ than excepted once I nosed it. My, what a nostril. If it was malt whisky, it might be Glenmorangie 25 yo reasonably than the 1963.
SGP:551 – 89 factors. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Confluences Très Vieille Petite Champagne L.49.62.73’ (44.3%, OB, 2021, 292 bottles)
Good, let me clarify, it is a mix of three vintages from three totally different vineyards/distillers, a 1949, a 1962 and a 1973, all from Petite Champagne. The common age – however that does not depend – is 58 years. Color: full gold. Nostril: candy Vishnu, this just a few otherworldly natural tea blended with round 5 hundred totally different fruit juices. Do you have to choose the expurgated model, as an example honeysuckle and mangos. Within the again, crushed mint leaves and a contact of lovage. Amazingly recent, instant, and form of ‘apparent’. Mouth: freshness and mint, rooibos, pink bananas, mangos, cantaloupes, very outdated white Graves, and several other different very outdated sweeter whites. It’s totally clear that this could be distilled wine (thanks Einstein). End: extremely tight and recent, it might by no means bow down. Beautiful ‘phenolic’ honeys, fir honey… Feedback: very spectacular, you possibly can actually perceive that the cellarmaster had wished to maintain this heavenly combination ‘as recent and fruity as doable’. If it was malt whisky, that may be an outdated Mitchell’s Springbank 25 yo ‘dumpy’.
SGP:651 – 92 factors. |
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Petite Champagne ‘Héritage N°.71’ (52.3%, Jean Grosperrin for Flickenschild, 2021)
A botte with a really transferring story, I might counsel you examine Flickenschild’s web site. Color: deep gold. Nostril: this one’s extra on bananas flambéed, then quince jelly and mirabelle tarte. There’s additionally a little bit custard and plenty of raisins rolls, maple syrup, vanilla fudge and simply toffee. With water: within the woods (moss, mushrooms, humus) with each some white and a few milk chocolate in your pocket. Sesame turon – which kills. Sesame turon is simply too good. Mouth (neat): we’re actually flying super-high at this time. This time I am reasonably discovering nectarines stewed in honey and white wine, identical form of remedy on pears, and as soon as once more this little mint-and-liquorice combo. Just a few baking spices. With water: turon is again, halva, pistachio nougat, some Wulong tea and a few mint… End: medium, as all the time, a tad extra natural. Lime tea, extra Wulong, peach skins… And again to mint within the aftertaste. Relatively mint tea (within the Sahara). Feedback: I like it that it might have began ueber-fruity, to change into grassier and extra advanced over time. Su-perb. You by no means see these on the giant Cognac homes, do you. Excuse me? Ah, sure, if it was malt whisky, that may a barely harder Speysider. Say a type of reasonably sherried outdated Glenfarclas.
SGP:561 – 91 factors. |
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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Lot 68-72’ (59.1%, Kirsch Import Version, Fins Bois, 2021)
Crikey, all our greatest cognacs go to Belgium and Germany as of late! Fairly. Few folks do Fins Bois, not to mention Bois Ordinaires, however Grosperrin confirmed us mere mortals how good they are often. I might add that it is not quite common that such an outdated cognac (except it spent its life in demijohns) would stay this sturdy. Color: deep gold. Nostril: cautious now. Croissants? Brioche? Marmalade? Crème brûlée? We cannot go any farer with out water, these cognacs are too advanced, you possibly can lose your nostril making an attempt to unearth all of the nuances… So, with water: natural teas galore, chamomile, mint, cinnamon tea, woodruff, mullein, and simply darjeeling. Mouth (neat): chic, wealthy, mirabelle-y… And b****y sturdy. Bitte entschuldingen Sie. Mit Wasser, I imply, with water: precisely what we had discovered on the nostril (natural teas) plus plum jam and simply banana pie. I imply 1968, that is Hendrix, Joplin, Cream, the Doorways… (and, S.?) End: medium and really coherent. Plums, honey, natural teas… And almond croissant, which is a few utter sin. Feedback: not too positive about which malt whisky this could possibly be. Wait, maybe a Lochside? Sure, actually, a Lochside.
SGP:561 – 90 factors. |
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Let’s stay vertical (no worries, we maintain all of it on handbook management)…
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Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘V.57 A.63’ (47.6%, Previous Grasp Spirits, Fins Bois, 70 bottles, 2021)
One other transferring story concerning the winemaker and distiller, Mr Aubineau, who had simply come again from service in Algeria when he made this wee 1957. As soon as once more, you will discover the entire story on the bottler’s pretty web site. Color: gold. Nostril: it’s a reasonably cake-y outdated cognac, reasonably on pastries, pies and tartes, then humidor and, maybe, preserved lemons as they make in pretty Morocco. Some cigarettes as properly (pack of Camels) and a few triple-sec. You do really feel a little bit oak (this one solely ever noticed oak, by no means a demijohn) however that may reasonably translate into notes of earl gray tea. So all is okay and properly to this point. Mouth: what’s this miracle, at sixty-three years of age? Other than a couple of tea-ish touches right here and there, and maybe a little bit cedarwood, it’s a vivid and fruity outdated cognac, reasonably on plums and papayas, with a dollop of heather honey (purple heather) and concepts of bananas flambéed. Flambéed au cognac, naturally, not flambéed al rum. End: the miracle goes on, whereas I might have anticipated it to change into a little bit drying and oaky now, it simply doesn’t, getting even brighter and extra on oranges and toffee. Oranges (and lemons) will all the time save any outdated spirits. Feedback: excessive rating as a result of it is improbable, not as a result of it’s totally outdated. And never as a result of the determine ’63’ would remind a few of us of some good AMGs (make sense of that in case you can). If it was malt whisky, it might be an outdated closed Distillery. Say Coleburn. Or there, Glenlochy.
SGP:561 – 91 factors. |
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1992-> 1957, not unhealthy, is it! See you one among these Sundays with extra beautiful cognacs.
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