The truthful metropolis of Perth was as soon as the beating coronary heart of Scotch whisky. Its grocer blenders had been the founders of a number of the most illustrious names that survive to at the present time: Bell’s, Dewar’s and The Well-known Grouse (from Matthew Gloag). However a fourth Perth mixing household – the Thomsons – may simply be the oldest whisky dynasty in all Scotland.
That at the very least is the conclusion of Finn Thomson, the founding father of impartial bottler Finn Thomson Whisky, which has simply launched its first tranche of whiskies, together with a 50-year-old Glenlivet priced at £15,000. Finn reckons he can hint a steady household reference to Scotch all the best way again to the 18th century. It’s a saga that tracks the historical past of the drink itself: from the hidden illicit stills of yesteryear to international fame at present.
Paperwork hint the Thomson household historical past
After a number of ‘talking to long-lost cousins and trawling by way of The Nationwide Archives’, plus enlisting the assistance of his father – lawyer and beginner historian Andrew Thomson – Finn believes the household whisky path begins in 1772. That was when tenant farmer James Thomson operated an unlawful pot nonetheless at Dunvorist Farm in Grandtully, close to Aberfeldy. On the time illicit distillation was rife within the Highlands.
From there the Thomsons moved into legitimacy through the nineteenth century, working the tiny Grandtully Distillery. Additionally they provided one other department of the household that arrange as a grocer on Perth’s Previous Excessive Avenue. Like so many others, the Thomson enterprise moved into whisky mixing, ultimately renaming its home mix ‘Beneagles’ to money in on the constructing of the luxurious Gleneagles Resort close by.
From barrel to bottle
Finn’s grandfather Michael Thomson bought the enterprise within the early Nineteen Eighties. However he stored maintain of a number of hundred casks of younger whisky which have been maturing over the a long time since. In the meantime, Finn has been studying the ropes of the trade over the previous decade – and is now aiming to place these casks to good use as an impartial bottler.
Finn Thomson, grandfather Michael Thomson and father Andrew Thomson (left to proper)
In addition to working in Scotch, Finn had a stint as an English language information with Familia Torres in Spain. He used that wine connection when ‘ending’ an Inchgower single malt in casks beforehand used to mature Torres Gran Coronas Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva.
The end result, a unusual whisky with a rose-gold color and an explosively fruity character, is the type of distinctive expression that impartial whisky bottlers do finest, even when Finn had his early doubts. ‘I had a love-hate relationship with it because it matured,’ he recollects.
‘At one level, I assumed: “I can’t bottle this – individuals will slate me.” However then I shared it with buddies and folks stored consuming it. While you’re beginning out, you’ve acquired to make it possible for every thing is of a excessive normal – however that doesn’t imply everybody has to love it.’
The vary
The Finn Thomson single cask vary is cut up into three: Core for youthful bottlings, Uncommon (30 years-plus) and Crown (one-offs). Early releases share the distinctive character of the Inchgower. They vary from a surprisingly elegant North British grain to a full-flavoured Dufftown – in addition to that Glenlivet, an opaque but balanced sherry cask of actual high quality.
Finn is sourcing contemporary casks, such because the Inchgower, to replenish the household shares. Regardless of the £15,000 price ticket connected to the Glenlivet, he’s not essentially aiming to serve Scotch’s fast-growing collector and investor market.
‘I need individuals like me to drink whisky,’ he says. ‘Individuals of their late 20s and early 30s who wish to spend cash on a pleasant bottle and like cool packaging, however don’t wish to be ripped off. They wish to know a bit of bit extra in regards to the back-story – and, for them, £65-£70 is inexpensive for good high quality.’
Finn Thomson whiskies to strive
Dufftown 34 Yr Previous (1987)
A time capsule. Within the late Nineteen Eighties, Dufftown switched to a lighter, grassier fashion. However this was laid down earlier than the change. Large tropical fruit on the nostril, then feral, nutty cereal notes on the palate, earlier than the fruit creeps again. A lovable monster. Alcohol 54.7%
Inchgower 13 Yr Previous (2009) Torres Crimson Wine End
Inchgower is a left-field Scotch at the very best of occasions. Right here its inimitable maritime savoury character is matched to a mixture of exuberant raspberry and crimson apple pores and skin. It’s bizarre, however it works. Alc 58.8%
North British 34 Yr Previous (1988)
This has all of the hallmarks of aged single grain whisky, together with fudgy toffee and Sugar Puffs. However there’s additionally a big dollop of cream and butter, plus extra grace and magnificence than is the norm. Alc 58.2%
The Glenlivet 50 Yr Previous (1970)
Beneath all of the whistles and bells – the hefty packaging befits a £15,000 whisky – sits a fairly great previous Sherried malt. It’s stuffed with dried fruit, cigar leaf, mint, leather-based and darkish chocolate – plus that hard-to-define, umami-like rancio observe. By all of it, in some way, you possibly can nonetheless detect the distillery’s ripe orchard fruits. Alc 49.8%
