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| Hello, that is considered one of our (nearly) each day tastings. Santé! |
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August 29, 2022
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New-wave Japan
Certainly we’ll attempt just a few younger Japanese whiskies and possibly try this in three elements. First, just a few Chichibu, then some Mars, then in all probability a wee batch from varied Distilleries, if that is all okay with you. (Topic to alter)
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Chichibu ‘London Version 2021’ (51.5%, OB, for The Whisky Trade, 1859 bottles) 
From seven casks, some having beforehand sheltered some peaters (hope these had been Chichibus). This child’s solely being launched now however we may attempt some pre-launch pattern final 12 months already, and simply beloved it (WF 91), however the present official launch is an excuse pretty much as good as any to shortly have one other go at it. Color: white wine. Nostril: crystal-clean arrival on the nostril, on lime juice and a complete plate of forty-eight small flat oysters. Proper, that is a plate for 2. Second arrival then with some a lot fatter aromas, greases, rubber, menthol and eucalyptus… With water: chalk and wool, as anticipated. Mouth (neat): the peat is lighter certainly however it’s very current. The lemons and grapefruits are enormous. With water: crystal-clean certainly, with just a bit rubber, which, I believe is an asset on this context. Aside from that, lemons and oysters are working the present. End: lengthy, on Japanese riesling and chenin, ought to they develop these grapes. Feedback: feels as if one of many seven casks was a heavy peater. Oh and shall we’ve the 2022 Version on the Whisky Present in a single month?
SGP:465 – 91 factors. |
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Chichibu 2012/2021 (55.6%, OB, for La Maison du Whisky, sixty fifth Anniversary, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #1884, 187 bottles)
Color: white wine. Nostril: one other very pure one, this time on recent varnish, white peaches, pink bananas, marshmallows and a coffee-spoonful of grated coconut. Very good and luminous, extraordinarily pure. With water: the whiffs of recent vanilla pods we had been anticipating. Mouth (neat): ultra-straight, on peach and mango jams and jellies. That is fairly it, however that is completely good. With water: a sin. Toffee apples (we name them love apples in France, which might be acceptable on this context) and drops of limoncello plus rhubarb wine. Rhubarb wine could be very good and the distracted drinker might generally imagine it is correct ‘grape wine’. End: medium, ultra-clean, with added touches of citrusy hops and lightweight honey. Feedback: a wonderful instance of a whisky that, for my part, is totally not complicated and but could be very good. Chichibu at its greatest, as soon as extra.
SGP:651 – 91 factors. |
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One other bourbon earlier than we attempt the whackier ones…
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Chichibu 2015/2021 (59.5%, OB for The Whisky Trade, bourbon cask, cask #5262, 233 bottles)
This one simply arrived. It appears that evidently Chichibus take their time to cross seas and oceans to achieve Europe. Color: white wine. Nostril: the barrel was much less lively this time, there are fewer bananas and no coconut in any respect, fairly some blade-y white grapes, gooseberries, jujubes and certainly, rhubarb. Don’t get me flawed, it’s fairly fruity, it is simply much less fruity than the 2012. With water: some good sourdough and weissbeer expressing themselves. A beautiful brioche flavoured with orange blossom water. Mouth (neat): tight, nervous, nearly acidic and just about all on citrus, particularly grapefruits when unreduced. With water: certainly, it is actually a extra citrusy model of an ultra-clean recent ex-bourbon Chichibu. Quite inexperienced bananas this time on prime of the lemons and grapefruits. End: medium, very zesty, nearly refreshing. I imagine we’re turning into very thirsty… Feedback: identical ballpark in my e-book, you can’t make them a lot better than this. As easy and important as a flower opening up within the morning solar of a spring day.
SGP:651 – 91 factors. |
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Good, I believe we’re prepared for some heavy doom steel laborious rock and roll whisky…
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Chichibu 2014/2021 (59.5%, OB for The Whisky Trade, IPA beer cask, cask #11049, 261 bottles) 
You are proper, however, some are retaining their IPAs in whisky casks too, so why not the opposite approach ‘spherical. I suppose for those who’re a brewer who would occur to distil as nicely, you can recycle your woods nearly eternally and simply change the heads infrequently. Color: white wine. Nostril: you can name this ‘bourbon +’, as there are a lot of similarities with TWE’s ex-bourbon, besides that the citrus fairly went to eleven (Citra hops and suchlike, I suppose) whereas there’s additionally some added fatness, not too positive the place that ought to come from. It’s also slightly extra tropical, with notes of mangos, for instance. With water: will get slightly weird. Sloe gin aged in pinewood? A pack of cinnamon mints and fairly some parsley. Mouth (neat): very humorous, fairly with notes of genepy, chartreuse and citron liqueur, additionally gin and absolutely a variety of elderberry eau-de-vie. You’ll be able to’t miss that – as soon as you’ve got tried some, naturally. With water: swims higher on the palate than on the nostril, however frankly, it is left whisky territories and would fairly wander in gin nations. Juniper, caraway, cloves, hops after all, Szechuan pepper… End: identical for a fairly ling time. Fairly candy. Feedback: what ought to we are saying? It was going to be tough after the three gorgeous ‘pure ones’. In reality, I like is as should as, for instance, these loopy Säntis aged in outdated beer casks. Oh, or as some Japanese rice whiskies.
SGP:651 – 86 factors. |
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Chichibu 2014/2021 (59.5%, OB for The Whisky Trade, Chibidaru cask, cask #3508, 119 bottles) 
From 1 / 4 cask this time, I believe Chichibu have used the charming title ‘Chibidaru’ for all of their whiskies matured in quarter casks (that are mainly half barrels, thoughts you, or quarters of a butt even when in different nations, 1 / 4 is 1 / 4 of a barrique, t’s sophisticated). Color: white wine. Nostril: akin to the ex-bourbons, actually, with maybe slightly extra smoke (backyard bonfire, strongly verboten since an excellent twenty years), granny smith, gooseberries and greengages, some inexperienced pepper, oyster shells… With water: falls in line and begins to show doughs, croissants and almond desserts. Good boy! Mouth (neat): extra inexperienced smoke, whereas somebody’s thrown fennel seeds and pinecones into the hearth. The oak might really feel slightly extra too, with certainly inexperienced spices unfold all around the common citrus fruits. A bit of extra extractive than the others. With water: water brings extra spices out, curry, caraway, juniper… In all softness. Will get slightly drying although. End: medium, with touches of tobacco and rubber when watered down. However, you’ll be able to’t solely quaff this little magnificence at 59.5%. Feedback: wonderful however more durable. The ‘easy’ ex-bourbon ones hold reigning supreme, by far, however we do perceive that no distiller may solely launch ex-bourbon malt whiskies of their very own.
SGP:561 – 88 factors. |
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All proper, let’s change plans en route and do some comparisons with this little child…
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Shizuoka 3 yo ‘Contact S’ (55.5%, OB, bourbon 5000 bottles, 2021)
It is TWE’s newer ex-bourbon Chichibu that we’re having on the aspect right here, so there may be stiff competitors. This wee Shizuoka is a mix of the makes from the outdated Karuizawa nonetheless and of that of the wood-fired one. As I perceive it, however I may very well be flawed, that is/was for Japan solely. Naturally, the title ‘Contact S.’ could not displease me. Color: white wine. Nostril: that is way more fermentary (it is also a lot youthful), moe rustic, extra estery, with some heavyish varnish and glue, wheelbarrows of chalk and clay, crushed slate and a variety of lemongrass. That is turning into Ferrari vs. Porsche at Le Mans, actually (not Toyota vs. Audi, thoughts you!) This far, the Chichibu’s a gentleman whereas this one’s a fairground wrestler. With water: whoo-hoo, we’re now nearly in the identical playground, as water’s made this wee Shizuoka fairly gentler, fruitier, simpler, and sure, civilised. Mouth (neat): varnished pears and glued garden, shall we embrace. Maybe a bit robust and too varnishy when neat. With water: it could be a tad younger certainly, nonetheless a bit unpolished (pastis, actually?) however I believe the potential is gigantic. In reality, it could want a variety of H2O earlier than reaching oranges, pears and peaches. End: medium to lengthy, a tad extra on oranges. Feedback: very wonderful, even when a few of the cask samples I may already attempt have been even superior. It is also true that the Chichibu was a troublesome companion.
SGP:562 – 87 factors. |
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Oh let’s merely go on till we run out of benzine… I imply of younger Japanese whiskies…
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Sakurao ‘1st launch’ (54%, OB, Japan, 12,000 bottles, 2021)
We have tried a Sakurao single malt at 43% earlier this 12 months and located it excellent (WF 84), together with a correctly Japanese Togouchi by the identical home. The Sakurao had been just a bit gentle at 43% vol. so it is cool to have the ability to attempt one with a better voltage. The Distillery’s positioned close to Hiroshima and was based in 2017, so that is clearly not very outdated. Color: straw. Nostril: few fruits this time, fairly bread dough, porridge, maybe Teflon, almond milk, stearin… A complete completely different, barely shier type. Apples. With water: earths, roots, greens, stems, fruit peel, poppy seed bread… That is all very good. Mouth (neat): many extra fruits on the palate, particularly maracuja and guava, additionally pink grapefruits, hops and Timut pepper. Quite surprisingly, it fairly jogs my memory of that otherworldly Chichibu ‘beer cask’. With water: excellent! Nice recent fruitiness, some wee pink bananas, in any other case apples and pears, plums, lime… End: extra of all that, with extra tartness, which at all times works in a end. Feedback: one other new younger Japanese that is very spectacular. Questioning what Mr Taketsuru up-there-in-the-skies is considering all this craft motion.
SGP:651 – 86 factors. |
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Extra firsts, what do you say?
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Kanosuke ‘1st Version’ (58%, OB, 2021)
We’re in beautiful Kagoshima on Kyushu this time. By no means been there however everybody says it is a beautiful place, the Naples of Japan. I’ve truly tried a Kanosuke earlier than, the tough Kanosuke 2018/2020 ‘New Born Peated’ however that does not depend, that one wasn’t even 3. As for the costs I may see, they make no sense in any respect, in all probability typos. Color: gold. Nostril: light cakey doughs and syrups, acacia honey, finger biscuits, sponge cake, then what at all times kills me immediately if not intently (in a great way, ha-ha), quince jelly. Superior, already forgot about that ‘New Born Peated’. With water: all superior, with some recent barley and, actually, one thing that jogs my memory of Waterford in Eire (simply tried just a few that I hadn’t tried earlier than). Mouth (neat): chocolate, skinny mints, pear spirit, mocha, kirschwasser, nail polish remover… In fact it’s a little brutal, higher add water instantly. With water: sure, there, orange liqueur, citrons, quinces, apricots, a tiny contact of mentholated liquorice… End: fairly lengthy, pure, barley-y and fruity. Beautiful fatness all alongside. Feedback: for example it, I adore it that these new Japanese wouldn’t be obsessive about PX, STR or ex-Laphroaig wooden.
SGP:651 – 87 factors. |
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Mars 2016/2021 ‘Tsunuki Yakushima Ageing’ (61%, OB, LMDW, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #2069)
I’ve to admit I by no means understood a lot about Mars’s varied firms, distilleries, cellars, warehouses, pot stills and cats, I desire to spend my power elsewhere. What I do know is that they are making some gorgeous stuff, that’s the essential factor. Color: white wine. Nostril: it is the purity that is at all times placing in these. Barley, grist, white beer, apples and that is all – and that is just about, already. With water: correct beer! I can not not consider that Pilsen Urquell that we used to quaff once we had been twenty (so not too way back). Aside from that, softer ‘yellow’ jams and pastes, pears, quinces… Mouth (neat): a complete bonbony fruit bomb when bare. Nail polish, gummi bears, marshmallows, lemon drops, banana foam, pear liqueur… With water: sure! Bread, flours, even yeasts popping out now. That is nicely malt whisky, not a fruit liqueur. Now cautious, it does want water at 61% vol., however an excessive amount of water will flatten it. I believe they name this a merciless dilemma. End: fairly lengthy, extra on bonbons, sweets, candies and fruit pastes. White chocolate within the aftertaste – no, actually. Feedback: an admirably engineered and plainly irresistible fruitiness. Nice choice by our mates in Paris too.
SGP:641 – 88 factors. |
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That one referred to as for extra…
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Mars 2018/2022 ‘Tsunuki’ (62%, OB, Asian Unique, first fill bourbon barrel, cask #570, 217 bottles)
All the time completely satisfied when ‘Asian exclusives’ come our approach. By the best way, Tsunuki is nicely the title of the Distillery right here. Color: straw. Nostril: plainly this one’s fruitier but, however at 62% vol., we shan’t take any dangers. With water: all pears on this planet, softer doughs, recent baguette… But it surely’s actually not probably the most expressive Mars I’ve ever nosed. Mouth (neat): candy Mary and Joseph, does this one burn your throat! With water: this time once more, don’t drown it, these younger whiskies are literally way more fragile than you’d suppose, as their molecules aren’t fairly of their locations but. Effectively, that is my principle. Get it proper (+/-50% vol. plus quarter-hour of relaxation) and also you’re in for a deal with. Peach, orange and pear juices, plus honey and vanilla. Sounds slightly pedestrian however it’s not. End: bouquets apart, it is very good when correctly decreased. Feedback: chic younger whisky BUT it’s a must to work on it, it is sort of a laborious nut. A correct pipette is obligatory in this type of context.
SGP:741 – 88 factors. |
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Mars Komagatake 2016/2021 (60%, OB, for AF Commerce and Tiffany’s New York Bar, sherry hogshead, cask #3365, 265 bottles)
I can not not consider Audrey Hepburn right here. This from Shinshu Distillery; I advised you, it is all past understanding. Color: gentle gold. Nostril: it is a peater, and probably the most elegant and charming there ever was. Burning grass, tomato leaves (I like the heavy scent of tomato leaves, even when many individuals do not), black toffee, butterscotch, pipe tobacco, sticky toffee pudding… With water: we’re on Islay, south shore, not too removed from Kildalton Cross. It is fairly wonderful, you’d imagine A’s sherried expressions (1976 anybody?) have been benchmarked with utter accuracy right here. Mouth (neat): heavy, extraordinarily extractive, with large smoke and a few even larger picket oils and embrocations. The sort of whisky you can convey to your subsequent sauna session. With water: they should have rebottled some younger A. Joking after all, however I imagine nobody’s ever been this shut, not even neighbours L. and L. End: lengthy, on tarry peat (clearly). Feedback: heavy peat and heavy sherry simply conflict in 95% of the instances, in my awful expertise, however that is not what occurred right here. Insane drop, for our subsequent Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
SGP:567 – 90 factors. |
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Good, I believe we may attempt to discover a valuable and good outdated one from the Japanese godfathers’ after which name this a tasting session.
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Age Unknown ‘Keizo Saji’ (43%, OB, Yamazaki, 300 bottles, 1994)
A really uncommon bottle signed by Suntory chairman Keizo Saji (1919-1999) who had simply written his biography and who had determined to present his entourage with this whisky, which is meant to have been aged for a further 5 years after the primary batch of ‘Age Unknown’, which had been distilled within the early 1960, with the youngest element distilled in 1964. We have tried the sooner, 1989 expression again in 2016 and had thought it was simply out of this world (WF 94). All capeesh? Could we proceed? Color: wealthy gold. Nostril: it is at all times the identical story. You attempt a flight of very younger malts, you’re amazed with their sheer high quality and ‘maturity’, and you find yourself believing that age is only a quantity (particularly if you’re not in your thirties anymore your self). Effectively nicely nicely, that is NAS however we all know it was distilled within the early Nineteen Sixties, and imagine me it’s gorgeous, and truly extraordinarily near a 50 years outdated (or extra) armagnac. Unbelievable smoky honeys, peach jam, walnuts, raisins, dried rambutans, cigars, earths and hardwoods, outdated books, furnishings polish… Certain it is fairly a brandy-like outdated whisky, however what an utter glory on the nostril! |
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Mouth: no approach! No extra outdated armagnac, fairly some very outdated Springbank, actually, I can not not consider the Millennium sequence, in all probability the 50. Previous tobaccos, outdated rums, outdated malts, outdated liqueurs, soups, bouillons, sorrel, sage, borage, different old-school herbs, heather honey, suet, fat, marrows, all raisins ever harvested by Man, ointments… Effectively actually, there are flavours which have left human threshold and that you simply could not even describe utilizing human language. So they’re there, unlabelled, unidentified, and simply superb. End: I’ve as soon as tried some extraordinarily outdated off-commerce arrack in Turkey, that was produced earlier than Atatürk (nicely that is what my mates advised me). It was a bit like this. Feedback: utter glory of the gods, up there with the perfect Karuizawas and even above them, and presumably the most effective Japanese whisky ever produced, past the closely marketed (thus slightly vulgar) latest ones. Certainly, presumably the most effective Japanese whisky ever. Or not. Who cares. Anyhow, think about this at 50% vol. or extra, as an alternative of 43%. Cheers Keizo Saji (and cheers Deni)!
SGP:662 – 96 factors.
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Keizo Saji (1919-1999) President of Suntory and the tenth richest man
on the planet in 1987, in accordance with
Forbes (I do know).
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(Thanks, as ever, Bert, Deni, Lars and Tim)
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