When is a single barrel not a single barrel? When there are six of them!
Alright, nice: they continue to be – individually – single barrels. Nonetheless, this set has been chosen from amongst barrels which have migrated to such extremes of fragrant and gustatory growth as to warrant particular consideration, in line with the person who distilled them. My hope is that tasting them collectively will paint a pointillist portrait of this distillery, with the medium being aromas and flavors, and the canvas being my nostril and mouth.
This summer time, my spouse returned residence and knowledgeable me that the man doing our tile – himself no slouch of a bourbon fanatic – had given her some whiskey for me. She mentioned I needed to go retrieve it from the trunk of our automotive. I assumed her a tad melodramatic for not with the ability to carry a handful of samples herself, however shortly understood once I noticed milk crates stuffed with bourbon bottles. They have been similar however for the extra labels appended to their sides, and their model and form left little doubt as to their origin: the Kentucky Peerless Distilling Firm.
Once I first wrote about Peerless, I began by recounting my agonizing anticipate the extremely anticipated inaugural bourbon launch. I nonetheless bear in mind the fun I felt once I glimpsed my first barrel decide of Peerless bourbon. That ended up being pretty on-profile (having aromas and flavors in step with the mainstay Small Batch), however my subsequent style of the “Burnt Ends” bourbon and “Apple Pie” rye reinvigorated my hopes for extra zany off-profile barrels from this distillery.
At this time I’ll presumably get my want, as all these bottles carry evocative names hinting on the distinctive flavors of the whiskey they include. They’re additionally, per their labels, “Hand Chosen by Grasp Distiller Caleb Kilburn. To get extra data on this hoard of Peerless single barrels so generously shared with me (thanks, Troy), I bought in contact with Caleb, who as soon as once more graciously took trip of his busy schedule to share some insights with me. Our dialog is under, condensed and edited for readability:
Malt: How have issues at Peerless developed because you launched the primary Small Batch Bourbon?
Caleb: It’s an incredible experience proper now. The group has actually rallied round us and actually constructed us up in a short time. After we first began out, the primary launch day was a microcosm of how our entire enterprise has been. Did I inform you the story about that?
Malt: You instructed me you had folks lined up within the rain at 4 o’clock within the morning!
Caleb: Yeah, just about! We had bottled up 2,000-some odd bottles and have been anticipating, simply by means of our reward store, that it will be sufficient to final a pair weeks. We have been offered out by mid-day on that Saturday. We’ve been inundated; we’ve so many requests for single barrels, for small batch and it’s simply… it’s simply superb how a small craft distillery in Louisville has gotten a lot consideration and a lot help from the trade. We’ve been extremely blessed.
Malt: It’s been nice to observe. We’ve began to see single barrel picks come alongside. How did that program evolve?
Caleb: A bit of again data, just a little baseline for our single barrel program: right here at Peerless, by far probably the most distinctive we do, that craft distilleries have a leg up on, is we get to undergo and style each one in all our barrels. It’s not one thing the place we seize one barrel and say that it speaks for lots or a pattern dimension or a rick. Each barrel will get examined, graded, evaluated on my own and a crew of sensory specialists right here at Peerless. So, as we’re going by means of, the very very first thing that we set up is “Is that this mature? Has this reached its potential? Is it a Peerless-caliber product?” And, whether it is, we go forward and determine the place it’s going to go inside our portfolio. But when it isn’t, we put it again within the ricks; we by no means speed up, we by no means rush, we by no means take one thing that’s on the fence and go forward and improve it, or put it into one thing it has no enterprise being part of.
Those that we do say, “OK, this belongs in Peerless,” the massive query is, “The place?” The majority of those barrels are nice in sure points of the flavour wheel, however really want just a little little bit of assist in one other. So, these are barrels that possibly they’ve a terrific nostril, or a caramel be aware, or some cinnamon, or there’s one thing particular in it… however possibly they’ve a brief end, or possibly the midpalate’s not terribly developed, or possibly it’s not nice with its mouthfeel. Lots of these barrels, once more, have a wonderful style to contribute, however aren’t as sturdy as they need to be in different elements of the flavour wheel.
What we’ll do with these barrels is we’ll pair ones with offset strengths, so the ensuing spirit is healthier than any unbiased barrel that goes into it. So, we’ll discover a barrel with a terrific nostril, or nice end, nice vanilla, nice citrus, we’ll discover all these totally different barrels and we’re going to pair these to the opposite to make our small batch product. Once more, the ensuing product is constructed on the strengths of every particular person one, that makes it higher than any barrel that goes into it. So, that’s your small batch program.
Separate from that’s the single barrel program, which is the place we’re going to discover these actually particular barrels in that tasting course of that don’t have any weaknesses, however reasonably showcase some actually implausible localized parts on the flavour wheel. They’re going to have very totally different notes, very totally different aromas. I’d be prepared to guess that if you happen to went by means of and tasted 5 Kentucky Peerless single barrels – even when they have been all of bourbon or all of rye – they’re going to have some very, very totally different notes and really totally different traits. That’s not one thing we shrink back from.
Some manufacturers wish to have a really constant model identification the place, single barrel to single barrel, they’re going to style very related. I throw that out the window. I need it constant in high quality, I need it to be a persistently fascinating expertise, and that’s concerning the finish of the consistency. If in case you have a barrel that’s primarily sugar and one other one that’s sharp cinnamon or herbs, one other one which’s candy cream, one other one which’s leather-based and tobacco… I need these barrels within the single barrel program to be as numerous and “on the market” as doable, as a result of that’s what a single barrel embodies, in my view.
If folks need to see steadiness I’d direct them to our small batch. When somebody tastes one in all our single barrels, it’s an expertise. By and much our favourite method to share single barrels with folks is thru the totally different liquor shops, liquor chains, bottle share teams, and fanatic teams who’ve believed in us, in Kentucky Peerless, truly are available in an choose a single barrel.
The way in which the one barrel program works, is once we consider an account, they need a Kentucky Peerless single barrel, they’ve helped us out… as a result of we do have a restricted amount of single barrels, and we need to be sure that we deal with the individuals who have taken excellent care of us. What we’ll do is: myself, John Wadell, who’s our single barrel curator, and several other different folks right here, we’ll begin with the majority samples, tasting barrels which were in a rick after we expect, age-wise, they need to be turning into mature.
We’re going to style that, we’re going to judge, we’re going to see which of them we expect belong in John’s program. From these, we’re going to seek out three very totally different barrels which can be very distinctive, that showcase totally different components. So, it’s a curated choice, however not in a approach that’s solely on-profile. Relatively, we don’t need to waste somebody’s time by placing two barrels in entrance of them that style the identical. We need to present them totally different, and a large breadth of our taste profile.
So, we’ll set them down with three very totally different samples. They style them, and doubtless probably the most rewarding expertise is that we get to sit down by means of this. When you’ve gotten a bunch are available in and also you’ve bought a number of very well-developed palates, which can be all bickering with each other, “No, two’s the one!” “Nicely, no, three, did you get this be aware on three?” “Nicely, what about one?” It’s simply actually enjoyable that you might have three individuals who all have good opinions – they’re all making very educated choices and weighing in correctly – however, it’s simply, every individual has their very own choice. We provide sufficient range to permit folks to seek out that.
Malt: Now that you just’ve been doing this some time, do these variations and distinctive notes observe a sample associated to place within the rickhouse, or sure rickhouses?
Caleb: Typically, we’ve the identical ebb and stream so far as batch-to-batch. Often, as numerous barrels, they’re extra related than ones which can be from totally different elements of the yr, totally different batches. Even inside one fill set, a lot of the batches we’re pulling from proper now have been round 10 barrels to fill.
Inside that, you’ll have 4 or 5 that want extra time on the rick; three which can be good; two that would make the one barrel reduce. That’s only a ballpark estimate. A few of these which can be single barrels find yourself falling into the batch as nicely, as a result of most of the time we’d like just a little additional bump in a sure a part of the flavour wheel. What higher approach to do this than with a single barrel?
Malt: The barrels I’ve now are picked by you and offered within the distillery store. How does that work?
Caleb: I discussed how we deal with the whole lot exterior right here. Usually what we’ll do upfront is use some ones which can be rather less balanced. That’s one factor that we do check out; we need to be sure that barrels which can be provided exterior of Peerless usually are going to be ones {that a} store proprietor desires to be just a little bit extra balanced. I imply, we’ll allow them to decide no matter they need, however usually their want is to seek out one thing that’s just a little extra balanced, as a result of it’s their solely displaying of a Peerless single barrel.
Right here at Peerless, we could let somebody style by means of 4 totally different single barrels. So far as our reward store expertise, we will afford to exit on the fringes as a result of right here we could have one that’s lavender and herbaceous and dry grapefruit. I truly simply did a rye named “Grapefruit Spritz.” So it’s herbaceous, it’s grassy, it’s grainy, it’s earthy, it has all these accolades. To lots of people, that will not match their profile. So if you happen to’re in search of a retailer decide, the place they need to attraction to a broad viewers, that’s in all probability not going to be one which they choose, however it’s nonetheless an excellent barrel, and we use the chance right here at Peerless to showcase these.
Malt: These all have fairly evocative names; do you give you these?
Caleb: So what we’ll do is, once more, we decide from the identical inhabitants as everybody else. We discover ones that we expect are actually good matches for our single store up entrance. It’s often me and our morning distiller and John Wadell, who’s our single barrel curator. We’ll undergo and we’ll slender down to a couple barrels that we expect match the invoice, that may be launched up entrance. Then I’ll set down with Peyton Beall and often a visitor choose or two, and we’ll style them and discover those we like. I’ll write tasting notes after which primarily based on tasting notes from myself and different folks on the panel, we’ll collaborate and give you notes. Often it’s a low key setting, we’re settin’ within the lab, we’ve tasted by means of this whiskey, and it’s like “OK, what do you consider these three notes actually being the hallmark of this whiskey?” “OK, nicely, if it’s bought these three notes, what’s one thing that sort of sums up the expertise?” In order that’s our objective with our labels, anyway.
Totally different liquor shops, they could need to do “Liquor Retailer Barrel 1” and “Liquor Retailer Barrel 2,” or they could need to go on the market with wild names. There’s solely been a number of that we’ve needed to shoot down for both copyright infringement or they get just a little too cheeky, I’ll put it that approach. It’s the alcohol trade, folks love seeing what they will get away with, I’ll put it that approach. [laughs].
Malt: So to take one for instance, how about this “Clover and Cask” barrel I’ve?
Caleb: Let me pull up my tasting notes on “Clover and Cask.” So, I am going by means of and I write a full tasting be aware for every one. For me, this barrel was, “Oak and mocha that lead off the intriguing nostril. Tobacco and allspice quickly be part of. First sip is fruit bitters, honey, cinnamon, and candy oak. Orange bitters burst and revitalize the palate. Delivers on the dry mocha however the orange and candy oak remains to be enlarged. The end is thick oak caramel that also celebrates the citrus.”
So, this one was citrus-barrel-citrus-barrel-citrus-barrel, and like this honey blossom character to it. So we named it “Clover and Cask.” It’s this clover honey drizzled throughout that embery oak. Every title is supposed to prime the mouth, prime the sensations, so that they actually get an understanding of, nicely, no less than what we get from the barrel.
Malt: Do you retain a library of those?
Caleb: Nicely, we inherently have just a little little bit of a library as a result of we do a retainer bottle for every batch. With that being mentioned, we haven’t purposely put aside a full set a full set of whiskey. I don’t even understand how we might go about that, to be trustworthy. When somebody is available in they usually buy a full barrel, we really feel that clearly, if we have been to carry again a portion of it, I don’t know if that might be fairly trustworthy to what they’re buying, as a result of these are very finite sources. When you’ve gotten one thing that’s particular, to provide it a reputation, to make the dedication, I don’t know whether it is one thing that I’d even need to maintain again a case of away from a shopper, away from the one that can get it. We’ve bought our little 200 e-mail that I can at all times return and reference if I have to, however: no, I don’t have a library.
Malt: Nicely, now you’ve simply created the best collectors’ merchandise in bourbon historical past: a full set of Peerless single barrels! [laughs]
Caleb: Our single barrel curator, John, he at all times says like “You’re the Grasp Distiller. You could possibly simply take it, no one goes to say something,” and I’m like… I used to be the goody two-shoes in class. Throughout my entire life it’s, “Sure sir, no sir, sure ma’am, no ma’am, please, thanks,” and I essentially don’t consider I’m taking something off the desk… nothing that isn’t above board. Simply serving to myself to a bottle right here and there’s not one thing I’d do.
Malt: I actually appreciated the design of the extra labels. Who will get credit score for that?
Caleb: The following step of the method, I’ll set down with Cordell Lawrence, who’s our world advertising and technique director. He wears numerous totally different hats right here on the distillery, as do I. Me and him, we’ll speak it over, we’ll give you what we expect the visible inspirations can be. We’ll after all go to the web, discover some footage that we really feel are in step with our model, with our theme, with the title of the barrel. We’ll give you some coloration cues and we’ll truly ship an e-mail to our in-house graphic designer, who does superb work. Impressed by our cues, she’ll put collectively the paintings. Such as you mentioned, she does superb work.
Malt: In your entire historical past of selecting barrels, do you’ve gotten an all-time favourite?
Caleb: Sure, I’ve one like that. It was truly a 3 yr outdated rye, so it was again earlier than we had 4 yr outdated product. It was this superb barrel that had like this Caribbean, like salted molasses attribute to it. It was simply superb. Once I say this, it’s not that the barrel itself… if I have been setting down and really grading point-for-point on nostril, on style, on end, on mouthfeel, on steadiness, it’s in all probability not going to win out. It’s not going to be the perfect so far as fundamentals, however it’s not about that. If you discuss a single barrel it’s concerning the expertise, what it may share with you so far as the place that barrel got here from, and what it’s able to. So, for me, Rye Tai is at all times going to evoke this actually totally different sensation that’s to this point exterior of the norm for rye, however it’s good!
I truly went forward an pulled up the notes from that Rye Tai. “The nostril begins with a toasted combination of brown sugar and allspice. Darkish molasses, soil, and spicy grasses quickly dominate the aroma. A large number of delicate accents starting from fried plantains to cocoa powder to cocoa entice and confuse the senses. The primary sip leads with candy toffee, earlier than a smoky savory character takes over. Candy oak, cinnamon, and toasted breakfast cereal quickly observe and complement. The barrel finishes just like a barrel-aged rum as vanillas and burnt tropical fruit come to dominate the sensations. One of the vital complicated Peerless barrels ever.” It jumped throughout, it was so bizarre!
I feel that our small batch merchandise are what technically could be graded best-for-best amongst our merchandise, however our single barrels are simply actually thrilling in that they showcase these totally different notes across the taste wheel.
Thanks once more to Caleb for generously sharing his time and insights with me. With that prelude, I’m very excited to get tasting these single barrels. A programming be aware: these retail for $124 every within the distillery store, which is a significant premium to the $80 for which the Small Batch Bourbon now retails, and the $90 for which my native retailer is promoting the Small Batch Rye. Value has at all times been a sticking level with Peerless from the start; I’ve defended it earlier than by way of the corporate’s craft scale and actually differentiated strategy to manufacturing and maturation. With that in thoughts, I’ll nonetheless be in search of some distinctive flavors expressed with conviction as a way to justify this premium.
Peerless Bourbon “Low and Gradual” – Overview
Barrel #160817103. 108.1 proof (54.05% ABV).
Shade: Medium golden brown.
On the nostril: A wedding of faintly fruity notes with some creamy oak. There’s a little bit of grape-y funk right here harking back to a wine cellar, in addition to some airily candy notes of confectioners’ sugar. A mildly meaty nuttiness of cashews rounds out the nostril.
Within the mouth: Upfront that is way more exuberant, with a tartly fruity be aware of barely underripe cherries. This develops some zesty, spicy notes because it strikes towards the midpalate, in addition to a minerality with a drying texture that takes over as this reaches the height of the palate. That is the purpose of most taste, and there’s not a lot physique or heft to the bourbon by means of the end, which leaves behind a barely woody astringency.
Conclusions:
I’m not getting any of the promised burnt ends, although I do nice that funky wine be aware on the nostril very interesting. That mentioned, this isn’t the perfect instance of Peerless bourbon that I’ve ever tried. It’s far too delicate and mushy spoken. To mirror that, and in consideration of the excessive value, I’m knocking some extent off of common.
Rating: 4/10
Peerless Bourbon “Smoldering Oak” – Overview
Barrel #160831107. 108.1 proof (54.05% ABV).
Shade: Medium golden brown, in step with the prior bottle.
On the nostril: One other one which tacks towards the lighter finish of the spectrum, this presents a vernal nostril of freshly reduce flowers to start out. There’s one other candied component right here, however this time it’s the fruity variation on sweet canes. A little bit of extra sniffing reveals a sappy be aware of pine needles, however once more introduced with excessive subtlety.
Within the mouth: I start to grasp the Smoldering Oak appellation, as there’s a pleasant mélange of woody notes from entrance to again right here. Upfront there’s a toasted sugar within the method of crème brûlée, with an added accent of orange zest. That minerality is once more evident in the course of the mouth, although there’s additionally a delicate dried wooden and barely smoky taste of campfire. This finishes hotter than its predecessor regardless of the same ABV, with a tingly sensation radiating thorugh the mouth.
Conclusions:
That is an enchancment from the prior bottle, notably within the mouth, the place the load and texture really feel extra near the perfect of what I’ve skilled from this distillery. The number of the wooden notes is intriguing. It’s good – however not nice – bourbon. In complete, I’m inclined to attain this on the midpoint of the vary.
Rating: 5/10
Peerless Bourbon “Clover & Cask” – Overview
Barrel #160822105. 108.2 proof (54.10% ABV).
Shade: Medium golden brown, similar to the others.
On the nostril: Extra sumptuously candy, I instantly really feel my nostril coated with the sticky clover honey aroma. The otherwise candy, creamy oaky vanillin notes are, certainly, accented by a delicate trace of orange. That honey be aware, although, reasserts itself; it’s a factor of magnificence. With extra time, I get a freshly inexperienced and dewy be aware of a lately mowed garden on a springtime morning.
Within the mouth: Candy in an altogether totally different approach from the nostril, this begins once more with a fruity be aware, however this time it’s a softened clementine on the verge of over-ripeness. This positive factors physique because it strikes into the center of the mouth, the place there’s a pitch-perfect marriage of polished wooden and mocha. This yields to a barely astringent, tannic woodiness by means of the end. Once more, one which tingles the tongue lengthy after the final swallow.
Conclusions:
One other step in the fitting course, they nailed the outline on this one. The nostril is all clover honey, whereas the mouth reveals the cask affect, along with another notes that assist this really feel fuller and higher realized than the 2 that got here earlier than it. I’d be happy if I introduced this residence from the reward store, thus am including some extent to common.
Rating: 6/10
Peerless Bourbon “Sangria Sundown” – Overview
Barrel #150527102. 110.2 proof (55.10% ABV).
Shade: Noticeable a shade darker than the others, with (appropriately, given the title) extra of a blood purple hue.
On the nostril: Name me impressionable, however the wine and reduce fruit of sangria are evident right here from the second this reaches the nostril. That’s not all, although; there are densely natural accents of tarragon and spicy notes of cinnamon right here. The general impact is harking back to mulled wine for a second, however then a meaty be aware of sluggish cooked beef brisket joins the get together. That is joined, after some time, by recent strawberries. Of the examples so far, I’m most excited to get to tasting this one, primarily based on the nostril.
Within the mouth: This presents a tart and candy fruitiness with a heaping dollop of spice, once more harking back to mulled wine. In the midst of the mouth this achieves a terrific steadiness, with the fruity notes becoming a member of in with a tannic woodiness harking back to precise purple wine, whereas the herbs and spices combine with a touch of limestone for a second. There’s a barely bitter woodiness that sings out for a second on the end, earlier than this resolves itself and settles down right into a gently pulsating warmth.
Conclusions:
Essentially the most off-profile single barrel of the group to this point, this has these fruit and wine notes pushed to an excessive. Nonetheless, they don’t completely dominate the presentation. The spicy accents are equally intriguing, whereas the mouthfeel is pleasantly plump whereas nonetheless retaining some sharpness across the edges. The very best of the bunch to this point; I’d be a prepared purchaser of this, because it most convincingly fulfils the promise of the one barrel format, and all of the quirky charms we anticipate therefrom.
Rating: 7/10
Peerless Bourbon “Wild Berry Marmalade”
Barrel #160826107. 114.3 proof (57.15% ABV).
Shade: Equally darkish and reddish hued to the Sangria Sundown.
On the nostril: Stone and spice meet with unique wooden in a difficult-to-describe mélange. It’s onerous to choose aside the person nuances, however simply then a burst of brambleberries cuts by means of the center of all of it and dominates the nostril. As soon as I decide up that be aware, it’s unimaginable to return. Maybe some cardamom or lemongrass if I actually attempt onerous sufficient, however it at all times goes proper again to the berries.
Within the mouth: Surprisingly mute to start out, this solely begins to choose up fruity flavors because it strikes towards the middle of the mouth. This tastes considerably muddled (not within the berry sense) and dilute. All of the flavors are introduced vaguely, as if behind a veil, or photographed by means of a gauzy lens. There’s a tartness that hints at underripe berries by means of the end, however once more coming to me indistinctly. With extra consideration, that turns right into a stalky, tannic greenness that makes me grimace; this tastes immature.
Conclusions:
I see what they noticed with that berry be aware on the nostril; it’s distinctive and amusing. Nonetheless, the palate on this one is a large number, with flavors both missing decision or – within the case of the woody notes – overpowering in a foul approach. I’d be fairly let down if I shelled out a buck and 1 / 4 for this, and am scoring it accordingly.
Rating: 3/10
Peerless Rye “Prickly Pear Manhattan” – Overview
Barrel #150822101. 113.5 proof (56.75% ABV).
Shade: Again to medium golden brown.
On the nostril: I don’t know from prickly, however there’s undoubtedly a pear be aware right here. I might need mentioned “grilled pears,” as there’s a charred, smoky facet to this. This does, certainly, odor like a cocktail; unsure if it will be a Manhattan, however followers of mixology will enjoyment of sniffing this one nonetheless. There’s a delicate be aware of rye in right here, however largely it’s that dense, syrupy fruitiness that speaks loudest. Let’s see what it’s bought within the mouth.
Within the mouth: Ah, that’s extra prefer it. A potent and dense, thick taste of rye whiskey is straight away obvious, and carries this all the best way into the mouth and thru the end. Oh, positive, there’s some fruity notes dancing across the periphery; I get an virtually grape soda-like be aware at one level. Nonetheless, what I largely style is severe, concentrated rye whiskey.
Conclusions:
The nostril is a curiosity, maybe one that might flip off the parents that don’t look after blended drinks. That might be a pity, although, because the mouth tacks in a totally totally different course. It’s rye by means of and thru, with some factors of intrigue, however largely rye. It’s excellent rye, which jogs my memory that I drink too little of the stuff from Peerless. That can change forthwith.
Rating: 6/10
General Conclusions:
Nicely, that was a rollercoaster. In complete, I’m glad I sampled these side-by-side, because it gave me some appreciation for the complete extent of deviations from the (above common) imply that’s represented by Peerless’ small batch expression. That mentioned, they weren’t all winners. A point of hit-or-miss danger taking is predicted when tasting single barrels, however the elevated value of those raised the bar to a peak that a number of the barrels had hassle clearing. Nonetheless, I’d be prepared to take a flier on a barrel within the distillery store, extra so if there have been a bottle open to style prior to buy. As a consequence, I’d advise you all to strategy this expression with cautious hopefulness.
Creator’s be aware: Caleb gracefully spared his time to talk in March of 2021. It took 18 months to get round to finishing this assessment, for which Caleb – and the entire Peerless crew – have my heartfelt apologies.
