Provence’s historical past extends from Roman ruins in cities like Arles and Aix-en-Provence to what’s swirling in your glass, since wine-growing right here dates again 26 centuries – making Provence France’s first wine area.
Provence is a residing French fairytale: hills blanketed in rows of blossoming lavender, medieval villages carved into cliff sides, hairpin turns whipping you thru oak forests sprinkled with truffles, or, as they’re referred to domestically, black ‘diamonds’. In the summertime, the cicadas are chirping so loudly, the background noise serves as a soundtrack to days spent lounging poolside, sipping rosé so pale it might be straightforward to mistake the wine for blanc.
Extending from Monaco and the Italian border, Provence encompasses the South of France, the sunflower-filled countryside, the saltmarshes of the Camargue, and medieval cities the place the sunshine and panorama impressed painters like Picasso and Matisse.
Whereas Provence itself is simply too massive to sort out in a weekend (not to mention every week), you possibly can nonetheless expertise a slice of the area on a highway journey by way of the vines, lingering over lengthy lunches ready with elements plucked from the encircling gardens and delightful bottles introduced over from close by wineries. Right here’s the right way to map out your journey.
Day 1: Avignon to Gargas
Coquillade Provence Resort & Spa
Board the prepare from Paris to Avignon (roughly 2.5 hours on the quick TGV) and hire a automotive if you arrive on the station. Make the 45-minute drive to Coquillade Provence Resort & Spa (Hameau Le Perrotet, 84400 Gargas), a Relais & Châteaux property that extends throughout a 40ha property within the coronary heart of the Luberon Valley, overlooking Provence’s highest peak, Mont Ventoux. The resort takes over an Eleventh-century hamlet and nonetheless has the texture of a Provençal village, with suites scattered throughout a handful of renovated stone bastides, or nation homes.
Spend the afternoon getting pampered on the spa – the most important within the area – alternating between the indoor pool, sauna and hammam, earlier than heading to the al fresco centrepiece poolside bar for a pre-dinner apéritif. Take a brief stroll and settle right into a desk within the vines at aptly-named Les Vignes. Cooks Thierry Enderlin and Aurélien Trousse ‘go to the marketplace for analysis,’ as they are saying when describing their Provence-focused fare that’s sourced domestically from the Luberon or picked from the onsite vegetable patch.
A dish or two adjustments each two weeks, however look forward to finding a menu of elevated regional favourites like stuffed zucchini flowers with chèvre and basil pesto from the backyard. Order a bottle of natural Aureto wine, crafted from the encircling vines on the resort’s onsite vineyard. The tasting room, a 10-minute bike journey away, additionally serves wine by the glass alongside cheese and charcuterie plates, for those who’re in search of a light-weight lunch when you’re right here.
Day 2: Roussillon, Lacoste & Ménerbes
La Bastide de Marie. Credit score: David André
After fuelling up on the lavish breakfast unfold, make your option to the resort’s biking centre, affiliated with Swiss model BMC (Andy Rihs, the resort’s Swiss billionaire proprietor, was additionally a backer of the WorldTour BMC Racing Group and head of the bike producer). This a part of Provence is simply as notorious for its biking routes (the Tour de France passes by way of the area) as its highway journeys, so spend the morning exploring the easier-to-cycle nation roads on a guided tour (request Gaetan as your information).
Cycle previous horse-filled pastures and cherry bushes as much as perched villages constructed on rust-red cliffs which have earned the world the nickname ‘Provence’s Colorado’. Get your digital camera prepared if you attain the highest of Roussillon – they are saying there are at the least 17 shades of ochre smeared throughout the properties of the clifftop village, named probably the most stunning in France.
Try of Coquillade and make the 20-minute drive as much as the impressively-preserved medieval village of Lacoste, topped by the Marquis de Sade’s citadel. French clothier Pierre Cardin has infused life into Lacoste since buying the château, launching an opera pageant within the close by quarries and scooping up one other 30 buildings lining the city’s cobblestoned streets. The tiny city doubles as a residing museum, so sit and absorb the views from the terrace of Café de France (one of many few brasseries on the town).
From right here, it’s lower than 10 minutes driving alongside winding roads to your subsequent cease for the evening: La Bastide de Marie (64 Chemin des Peirelles, 84560 Ménerbes), a countryside-chic resort and wine property in Ménerbes. The Sibuet household introduced their trademark laid-back class to the farmhouse, which dates again to the 18th century. The structure is meant to really feel as for those who’re staying in a household dwelling, with 14 rooms and suites situated on totally different ranges and shuttered home windows looking over the patio, winery, or backyard.
Because the solar units, sit on the terrace by the vines, sipping Pastis and nibbling on charcuterie and crudités earlier than transferring over to the opposite facet of the bastide, the place white tablecloth-covered wrought iron tables (sourced from native flea markets) dot the patio in entrance of the vine-covered façade of the farmhouse. Don’t count on a set menu – chef François Martin’s dishes depend upon what he finds at native farms or picks up from producers within the morning. Suppose fish roasted with herbs from the garrigue or lamb with Provençal tian, roasted, layered greens served in a conventional earthenware dish of the identical identify.
Day 3: Gordes & Crillon-le-Courageous
Lodge Crillon Le Courageous. Credit score: Mr Tripper
After one final take a look at Domaine de Marie’s vines over viennoiserie and occasional, hop again within the automotive and set off on a brief (however scenic!) drive to Gordes, probably the most standard perched villages within the area – each for the view from the drive up in addition to the view when you get there (the homes and buildings hug the facet of the cliff). Stroll the criss-crossing calades (pebble-paved streets), stopping for a second espresso or first glass of wine of the day at La Bastide (61 Rue de la Combe, 84220 Gordes), an antique-filled, Outdated World magnificence constructed into the medieval ramparts that nods to the properties as soon as belonging to the Counts of Provence.
Then, it’s again on the highway and alongside the winding cliffs to a different hilltop village: Crillon-le-Courageous. The drive could solely be 40 minutes, however the twists and turns (and views over the cliffside) make it probably the most scenic of the journey. The spotlight of this city is the labyrinth-like boutique resort Crillon le Courageous (Place de l’Eglise, 84410 Crillon-le-Courageous). Secret passages and tucked-away terraces join the dozen stone properties forming the resort’s 34 ethereal rooms and suites. You’ll need to put aside the afternoon to lounge on the tucked-away pool, which exhibits off among the finest views over Mont Ventoux.
Begin the night with a glass of native wine, having fun with the view from the terrace lounge earlier than strolling up the steps to dine at bistro-style La Desk du Ventoux, the place chef Adrien Brunet reimagines Provençal staples like pissaladière and works with elements as native as herbs sourced from the backyard above the swimming pool.
Day 4: Saint-Rémy-de-Provence & Arles
Buildings in Arles. Picture by LoboStudio Hamburg on Unsplash
The drive to Arles is simply over an hour, and it conveniently runs by way of or close to just a few cities price stopping in: Avignon, Les Baux-de-Provence, and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. If it’s important to select only one, I’d recommend spending the morning in Saint-Rémy, a compact city with centuries-old fountains, attractive sandstone properties, rows of aircraft bushes, refined wine cellars and bohemian-style outlets you’d extra count on to see in Saint-Tropez. The country-chic city, shielded by the remnants of a 14th-century wall, was the place Van Gogh painted ‘Starry Evening’, however it’s additionally a getaway for trendy Parisians heading to Provence. Should you’re driving by way of on a Wednesday, sip your espresso at Le Café de la Place (17 Place de la République, 13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence) earlier than perusing the weekly market.
It’s a fast, 30-minute drive to the centre of Arles, the place you’ll park and head for a late lunch on the shaded terrace or rooftop of L’Épicerie du Cloître (16 Rue du Cloître, 13200 Arles), the place elements on the cabinets of the store inside vary from these from Japan to artisanal canneries within the Mediterranean and Provence. Plates are tapas-style (Camargue rice- and bacalao-stuffed arancini, grilled almonds with Provençal herbs) and extra snacks than full dishes – which makes it the best spot for pre-dinner apéro, as effectively.
Verify into the newish guesthouse from one of many area’s most well-known perfume manufacturers, Fragonard, which transformed an 18th-century stone constructing previously housing a pharmacist’s laboratory. Maison Fragonard’s (Deadlock Favorin rue Favorin, 13200 Arles) six rooms are unfold throughout three flooring above the model’s boutique and outfitted with antiques like wrought-iron daybeds and hand-embroidered suzani bedspreads from Central Asia.
Go by way of the neighbouring sq., Place du Discussion board, the place Van Gogh painted one other well-known piece, ‘Terrasse du Café le Soir’, and head to Cave de Trinquetaille (8 Avenue de la Gare Maritime, 13200 Arles) for pure wine and the sound of vinyl. For dinner this night, sit on the streetside terrace of cave à manger Le Gibolin (13 Rue des Porcelets, 13200 Arles) for a mixture of traditional and extra inventive takes on French fare, like labneh-topped pea velouté and ricotta-and-pine nut-stuffed zucchini. There’s a small number of wines by the glass, however it’s price going for one of many well-priced bottles lining the cabinets inside.
Day 5: Camargue
La Chassagnette. Credit score: Victor & Simon / Victor Picon
Earlier than ending your journey and heading south to the French Riviera, to the airport in Marseille or again to the prepare station in Avignon, set off by way of the rice paddies and rosé-hued salt flats of the Camargue, the place residents vary from flamingos to cloud-coloured horses. The vacation spot: La Chassagnette (Mas de la Chassagnette Chemin du Sambuc, 13200 Arles), your Michelin star meal for the journey. Chef Armand Arnal pulls the vast majority of elements from his surrounding vegetable backyard – the place he grows greater than 200 styles of fruit and greens – or close by farms for 5- or 7-course tastings menus which can be gastronomic but approachable (suppose delicately-plated dishes like aubergine brulée with almonds and sage).
An excellent chunk of the wine menu champions southern French wineries and native growers, and the sommelier is completely satisfied that will help you navigate by the glass or bottle. Plan to linger underneath the shaded terrace the complete afternoon – that is when time really doesn’t matter, so long as you’re not late on your reservation. It is a powerful desk to get, so reserve effectively prematurely. It’ll be price it.
