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| Hello, that is considered one of our (virtually) every day tastings. Santé! |
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April 24, 2022
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Seven armagnacs and one apéritif
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Our little apéritif might be a well known cognac. Subsequent time we’ll do precisely the other, armagnac because the apéritif, then seven cognacs.
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(Image, Château de Maniban in Mauléon d’Armagnac, property of Castarède)
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Delamain Pale & Dry ‘XO’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, +/-2020) 
A widely known cognac that I’ve by no means formally tried earlier than though it is usually been a ‘restaurant most popular’. Angus tasted an older expression at 70°proof a number of months in the past and thought it was price 82 factors. Bear in mind, in Cognac XO means minimal 10 years, usually many extra. I might guess it might be a good suggestion that the Scots would use an analogous system with their awful NAS (as a result of keep in mind, NAS = minimal 3 years). Color: gold, so not notably pale by right this moment’s requirements. Nostril: not notably dry both, this has vibrant fruits together with some muscat and gewurztraminer, sitting above the anticipated stewed peaches and sultanas in addition to some acacia honey, dandelions and a little bit custard. No quibbles. Mouth: candy, floral and fruity, maybe a tad skinny(nish) however there are beautiful notes of liquorice allsorts, small-grain muscat once more, Turkish delights and extra raisins. End: not too lengthy, very candy, with extra liquorice allsorts. Feedback: stated to be 25 years previous and bearing no obscuration. In France you usually see it at 42% however this was an UK model at 40%. Maybe a little bit extra oomph…
SGP:641 – 83 factors. |
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Lionel Osmin & Cie 1996/2013 (42%, OB, armagnac, tirage n°1, 463 bottles) 
Lionel Osmin is a négociant from town of Pau, doing each wines from South-West France and armagnac. He is additionally having a partnership with rugby star Imanol Harinordoquy – rugby has at all times been carefully tied to armagnac, not solely throughout third half-times. Proper. Color: amber. Nostril: not immensely fragrant, beginning primarily on fruit peel, particularly peaches. Touches of liquorice and rancio, then dry greens, eggplants, artichokes, with a little bit caramel. Mouth: I discover it nicer on the palate however actually rustic, rooty, a tad sizzling regardless of the slightly low power. Then we now have the anticipated espresso, black chocolate and cloves. End: fairly lengthy however drying, on extra black chocolate, espresso and black tea, with some pepper within the aftertaste. Feedback: the oak’s a little bit dominant, which occurs fairly often with ‘previous fashion’ armagnac, in my meagre expertise. The end was actually bone-dry and peppery.
SGP:361 – 79 factors. |
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Castarède 10 yo ‘Brut de Fût Folle Blanche’ (51.7%, OB, Bas-armagnac, +/-2019) 
This child’s nonetheless out there, they appear to be parting with these bottles very sparingly at Castarède’s and we cannot blame them. The well-known home is situated in Mauléon d’Armagnac within the Gers. Color: deep gold. Nostril: the upper power imparts notes of bourbon, varnish, even a little bit heavy acetone, all issues we do take pleasure in as whisky fans, do not we. The remainder lies between biscuits and dried fruits (figs, raisins), plus some black nougat and praline. Whiffs of heat turon, we’re proper in Spain. With water: wee bits of black truffles and even a contact of tar, then bouillon and prunes. Mouth (neat): totally on heavy marmalade, extra black nougat and touches of salmiak and chocolate. A little bit caraway within the background. With water: water brings out some meatiness and numerous herbs, even tarragon and sage. Black earl gray. End: slightly lengthy, a tad grittier, grassier, additionally extra on liquorice wooden and occasional dregs. Bitter chocolate within the aftertaste. Feedback: I had tried their different folles blanches a number of years again (6, 8, 18) and had actually favored them too.
SGP:451 – 87 factors. |
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Oh nicely, let’s keep in Armagnac for a little bit longer…
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Domaine Pouy 1998 (56%, L’Encantada, Ténarèze, cask #78, 605 bottles, +/-2021) 
This wee Domaine is situated in (or close to?) Condom. We have at all times had a tender spot for the strong Ténarèze. This one was distilled from ugni blanc (a.ok.a. trebbiano) and colombard. Color: full gold. Nostril: on the wine! That is completely sensible, with an outstanding freshness, a luminous floralness (honeysuckle, woodruff) and elegant citrus, rhubarb and inexperienced apples. I can not wait so as to add a little bit water… With water: whiffs of bicycle internal tube at first, which might go away fissa-fissa, then an enormous pile of previous apples. I imply previous varietals. Drop of previous balsamico. Mouth (neat): distinctive drop on menthol, liquorice and all tarter fruits of the creation. It is an excellent white Pessac-Léognan, solely at a touch larger power. I stated marginally. With water: sublimely acidulated. A really harmful Armagnac since it’s slightly refreshing. End: lengthy, excellent. Liquorice, marmalade, gooseberry jam and some drops of an ideal rhum agricole. A Neisson, let’s say. Feedback: unsure you’ve got already observed that I am loving this very harmful wee Ténarèze. To sip whereas watching rugby, I will purchase a bottle for the following World Cup.
SGP:651 – 91 factors. |
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We might want some heavy hitters after that gorgeous ‘Pouy’.
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Domaine de Baraillon 21 yo 1999/2021 (48%, GrapeDiggaz, Wu Dram Clan and Kirsch Import, Bas-armagnac, 100% folle blanche, cask #22, 142 bottles)
In all probability unlawful stuff. We are saying no extra. Color: golden amber. Nostril: exact same territory, simply not Ténarèze (neither is it ugni blanc and colombard). Similar superior dandelions, oranges and ripe apples, then maybe a tad extra grass and peel. Damaged branches, plantains… Mouth: oranges, mirabelles, mangos, peel, raisins, plus this time once more a little bit top-notch rhum agricole and even a contact of malt whisky. I am being critical, say a mix of ‘Bs’ (Balblair and Balvenie). End: slightly lengthy, with some caramel, fudge, muscovado sugar, and Ovaltine whereas we have been speaking malt. Triple-sec and meadow honey within the aftertaste. Feedback: wonderful the way it resisted the unbelievable Pouy. However then once more, it is Baraillon…
SGP:651 – 90 factors. |
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Let’s hold solely good weapons on the desk…
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Château de Laubade 1992/2021 ‘Brut de Fût’ (50.8%, OB for Fassstark.de, Bas-armagnac, barrique, cask #82075, tirage n°1) 
Baco and ugni blanc this time. We have tried fairly a number of wonderful ‘bruts de fût’ from Laubade’s inside the previous couple of months. Color: full gold. Nostril: it is a very floral armagnac, ridden with orange blossom, wisteria, dandelions, buttercups and something a bee would take pleasure in. All that over some acacia honey, mirabelle jam and softer sponge-cakes and biscuits. With water: will get a little bit drier, slightly on hay, teas and banana skins. Mouth (neat): a type of armagnacs which might be geared in the direction of cognacs (after this they’re going to by no means let me in Gascony anymore). Beautiful fruitiness, some peel, seeds, pips and stones, with some mead and maple syrup. With water: contact of lavender, violet candy, liquorice, bananas… End: medium to lengthy, extra on natural teas. Star anise, chamomile, orange peel, earl gray… Feedback: maybe a tad extra cerebral and fewer ‘apparent’ than each the L’Encantada and the Baraillon, however we’re nonetheless flying near the stratosphere. Very good ‘good’ lavender.
SGP:551 – 88 factors. |
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Baron de Lustrac 40 yo ‘XO’ (46.4%, OB, for Wine4You, Bas-armagnac, 4000 bottles, +/-2021)
Baron de Lustrac are situated close to Nogaro within the Gers and are négociants-éleveurs, working with approx. twenty completely different producers. Color: deep gold. Nostril: nicely, that is much less ‘quick’ however definitely fairly complicated, with a number of metallic touches, peel, various Demerara sugar (obscuration?) after which something cappuccino, toffee or pipe tobacco. Reasonably armagnac à l’ancienne this far, not that we’re having something towards that, naturally. Mouth: the nice previous days. Notes of sherry, walnuts, maraschino, chicory espresso, espresso liqueur, even brandy de Jerez… Furiously un-modern, maybe a little bit ‘kitchened-up’ (in all probability not). Espresso liqueur’s at all times been a lot en vogue in Armagnac… Within the previous days… End: medium, nonetheless a tad liqueury. Feedback: appears like this was ‘obscured’ in some unspecified time in the future, however I would not stake my life on that. It remained an excellent drop.
SGP:641 – 85 factors. |
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Aurian 1985/2021 (44.6%, OB, for Wu Dram Clan and Open Spirits/la Supply)
From the home Aurian in Condom. They name it a ‘Grand Armagnac’ however final time I checked that moniker wasn’t which means a lot. Oh nicely, a little bit flannel by no means killed anyone. Color: amber. Nostril: it is gotten saltier, meatier, extra on soups and previous cigars. Pickled onion in honey, miso and umami, wooden varnish, Maggi, walnut stain… Mouth: it’s fruitier in your palate, extra on plum jam and marmalade, though the misoness (ha) stays there. Notes of pipe tobacco but once more, gravy, then cloves and pepper, rancio wine, salty liquorice… In reality this barely rawish previous armagnac has received a number of rancio. End: slightly lengthy, saltier but, bitter and meaty, with many sorts of bouillons and slightly a number of natural liqueur, reminding me of that unlikely factor that will begin with Jaeger and finish with Meister. Feedback: a meatier previous armagnac. It could let you know tales.
SGP:461 – 85 factors. |
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