| |
House
1000’s of tastings,
all of the music,
all of the rambligs
and all of the enjoyable
(hopefully!)
Whiskyfun.com
Assured ad-free
copyright 2002-2022
|
 |
|
| Hello, that is one among our (virtually) day by day tastings. Santé! |
| |
|
| |
| |
|
Could 29, 2022
|
|
  |
|
|
|
A phrase of warning
Let me please remind you that my humble assessments of any spirits are accomplished from the viewpoint of a malt whisky fanatic who, what’s extra, is aboslutely not an professional in rum, brandy, tequila, vodka, gin or another spirits. Thanks – and peace! |
|
Supersonic Cognacs, or one other verticale, in two elements
|
 |
We have had quite quite a lot of rum and armagnacs these previous Sundays, so it’s cognac time once more. This may very well be a quite lengthy session, even when we’ll choose solely very high-flyers, so I might say we’ll do it in two elements… As a for our conventional apéritifs, how about this, earlier than we begin to go down the vintages?… (Image Musées de la Ville de Cognac, Braud Christian)
|
|
|
Prunier 10 ans d’âge (40%, OB, cognac, +/-2020) 
The outdated négociants home Prunier created this mix of solely 4 to 6 completely different cognac. They have been based even earlier than Glenturret (1775, allegedly), that’s to say in 1769. Color: wealthy gold with orange hues (may counsel E150). Nostril: very aromatic, quite on maple syrup, juicy sultanas, preserved peaches, apricots and mirabelles, then a contact of liquorice and nougat. Within the background, clear whiffs of menthol and thyme honey. A relative simplicity makes for an asset right here. Mouth: rather more floral on the palate, a little bit acidic as nicely, with touches of Seville oranges and a few type of orange-flavoured icing. Would are likely to turn out to be a little bit leafy and grassy too, virtually a wee bit bitterish. Inexperienced tannins. It is to be mentioned {that a} low power by no means helps. A tiny feeling of cleaning soap as nicely. End: medium, leafy, barely leathery and even malty (extracts). Feedback: a particularly reasonable warm-me-up. We’re probably not used to those ranges.
SGP:451 – 80 factors. |
|
|
Fanny Fougerat 2011 ‘Marin’ (40%, OB, Fins Bois, 1050 bottles, +/-2020) 
An fascinating composition, with a quite younger fins bois that was completed in French oak that had spent one yr at an oyster-farmer’s on the isle of Ré earlier than coopering, which ought to have made these casks quite ‘coastal’. It is to be famous that the isle of Ré itself is a part of the appellation ‘bois ordinaires’ in Cognac. Color: white wine. Nostril: as we typically say, the issue with figuring out about tales is that you simply can not not really feel them while you strive the spirit. That is, certainly, quite coastal, considerably ala Bruichladdich. Inexperienced melon skins discovered on a seashore on the Atlantic (true private story), notes of stalk and pips, plums each recent and tinned, paraffin, a contact of ‘good’ rubber (internal tubes), a little bit shoe polish… This certain is not your common cognac. Mouth: positively meta, tight, actually malty this time, grassy, even type of bready, geared in direction of spicy orange zests and dry sherry, with additionally notes of or marc that do reply to the stalks and pips that have been within the nostril. A really nice wee tight and recent cognac (may we use the phrase wee with cognac?). End: not that brief regardless of the low power, and, drumroll, quite a little bit salty certainly. The aftertaste is a tad bitterer. Feedback: meta certainly, so pleasantly a little bit hybrid, and certainly a little bit malty. In all probability a terrific apéritif too. Did not discover the oysters although.
SGP:462 – 86 factors. |
|
By the way in which, you can surprise if it would not have been simpler to make use of ex-whisky barrels, why not ex-Laphroaig for instance, which is what increasingly Scots are doing nowadays (which we name in-cask mixing, the wettest the cask, the higher, proper…) However excellent news, that is not allowed in Cognac, all you can use is new oak, refill cognac, or ex-wine, which is a brand new development we’re fantastic with, so long as they’re clear. Certainly, sherry is wine.
Now, you can use some ex-Laphroaig hogsheads and name it brandy as an alternative of Cognac, I might suppose… Anyway…
|
|
|
Normandin-Mercier ‘Très Vieille Grande Champagne’ (40%, OB, Grande Champagne, for Cerbaco Australia, +/-2021) 
A pleasure to a little bit Frenchman to style a French spirit that flew again from Australia. I’ve seen a few of these ‘Très Vieille Grande Champagne’ by Normandin-Mercier being marketed as having spent multiple century within the ‘chais’. They do additionally appear to advertise the usage of refill wooden, for longer agings and subsequently, the next complexity. Precisely what many Scots ought to do as nicely once more, if you happen to ask me. By the way in which, certain we may have waited earlier than making an attempt this outdated glory inside this line-up, however at 40% vol, higher secure than sorry. I imply, early than too late. Color: bronze amber. Nostril: liquid for the Gods. Flabbergasting flowers and ripe fruits. I imply, all of them, from all continents. To maintain this brief, I might say this interprets into some type of all-flower honey of extraordinarily excessive extraction. And with these tiny meaty touches right here and there, I can not not consider G&M’s oldest Glen Grants, as I simply tried two of them. Superb, very poetic nostril, even questioning if this wasn’t wartime cognac, as we’ve got this little saying right here, that goes like ‘wartime cognacs have been one of the best as a result of the ladies made them’. However maybe has this turn out to be a sexist comment? Mouth: what a aid that it hadn’t been flattened-down by discount, even when we’d dream of a better power. Heather and linden honey, positively quite a lot of rancio, chestnut honey, some candy ham, touches of molasses, certainly some tobacco, miso, a drop of brown beer (whoops, one other crime a lese-majesty!) Actually strikes in direction of pipe tobacco over time. In all probability darkish tobacco, which was what individuals have been smoking when this was distilled. End: not very lengthy – it could not be very lengthy – however beautifully proper between honeys and bouillons. Dry aftertaste, which is completely regular. Feedback: pretty staggering very outdated grande champagne. We would like to know a little bit extra about ‘what’s inside’, quite than speculate aimlessly!
SGP:561 – 92 factors. |
|
Naturally, we have gone too excessive already, however we’ll handle, let’s simply have cognacs by nice homes…
|
|
|
Vallein Tercinier 33 yo LOT88/2022 (47%, Maltbarn, Bon Bois, 142 bottles)
Keep in mind, in idea, Fins Bois > Bons Bois > Bois Ordinaires. In apply, I may by no means, ever reproduce or validate this outdated rating when making an attempt the cognacs. Having mentioned that, I insist, I am extraordinarily removed from being an ‘professional’. Color: gold. Nostril: typical Bon Bois. I’m joking! Now, I am discovering some pretty mentholated and liquoricy fruits, in truth some type of complicated fruit salad seasoned with liquorice, mint and honey. Emphasis on melons and papayas. Behind that, some delicate recent herbs, sorrel, dill, parsley, coriander… Truly, it is a good nostril, quite nicely within the model of Vallein Tercinier, together with these of their a lot older vintages. We’re even reminded of the superlative 1965s in a method… Mouth: stands firmly on its ft after the outdated Normandin-Mercier. Relatively extra tropical than different makes extra on, mangos and pink bananas, melons, additionally honeys and juicy dried fruits (primarily high-class raisins from chosen sources). Oranges and extra honey, chic liquorice. Good focus right here, it tastes prefer it speaks (we’ll clarify that later…) End: quite lengthy, lovingly compact. Marmalade, liquorice and honey, no different trio works higher. Orange blossom water within the aftertaste. Feedback: virtually a fruit bomb, fantastically compact quite than truly complicated, which works simply as nicely in my little ebook. And ‘drinks too nicely’.
SGP:641 – 90 factors. |
|
Let’s go additional down the vintages…
|
|
|
No.73 Héritage (54.6%, J. Grosperrin for Ardour for Whisky, Petite Champagne, 2022)
As we mentioned, solely our most popular homes. Oh and 1973, that is the yr of that completely gorgeous FZ gig in Sweden whereas Jean-Luc Ponty was nonetheless on board. Verify ‘Dupree’s Paradise 1973’ on YouTube, however first, again to this wee Petite Champagne from the identical yr… Color: full deep gold. Nostril: it’s not explosive however we all know that is the power. I might say excessive ranges of alcohol could block brandies a little bit greater than whiskies (on the similar ABVs). Cake à l’orange, Jaffa desserts, raisins and dried figs, quite quite a lot of black nougat and cappuccino… However it actually requires water. With water: that labored. Outdated Meursault and crushed bananas, heat praline, heat raisin rolls, lemon balm, with honeysuckle and acacia flowers within the background… Luminously recent. Mouth (neat): no blockage on the palate, that is virtually monstrous, with tons of marmalade and orange blossom water. Big, huge arrival and a improvement to match, extraordinarily potent and flavourful, on tons of orange-blossom honey. Spectacular. With water: it stays a little bit tightly focussed on citrus, particularly something oranges together with orange blossom honey. That too is an asset, there’s simply nothing even remotely misplaced in the way in which. End: similar. Feedback: sublimely easy, like a Miro, however please place your bottle beneath lock and key.
SGP:641 – 91 factors. |
|
Appears like we have reached cruising pace (on a German autobahn)…
|
|
|
Jean-Luc Pasquet ‘Lot 68-72’ (66.6%, Moist Drams, Grape of the Artwork, Fins Bois, cask #21, 276 bottles)
A +/-50 years outdated Fins Bois for Germany that comes with good particulars, resembling the truth that it was distilled integrally from ugni blanc, in a 12hl pot nonetheless, by Monsieur André Porchet, and aged in a dry cellar. As for this devilish power of 66.6% vol. after so a few years, it would simply go to show that certainly, it was a really dry cellar. Inferno! Forgot to say, I like this label. I say bottles ought to assist adorn our properties, not generate any visible air pollution and make our lounges seem like a Disney store (apologies, mates). Color: deep gold. Nostril: acetone, ammonia, then sizzling caramel and rum. However no worries but… With water: wants time… There, liquorice popping out, herbs, fern and moss, fruit peel, banana pores and skin, melons, additionally some damp chalk, clay, inexperienced tea, then extra honey, desserts… Oh come on, we do not have on a regular basis on this planet… Mouth (neat): natural syrups? Chartreuse elixir? As soon as once more, that is the power… With water: goes from these chartreuse-y, earthy notes to an excellent mentholy and liquoricy fruitiness – inside a superb fifteen minutes. End: extraordinarily lengthy. Feedback: they need to ship this bottle with a free bottle of Vittel and a superb pipette. And a superb ebook since it is so sluggish… Nearly a DIY outdated cognac; an excellent one if you happen to take your time.
SGP:461 – 90 factors. |
|
|
Godet 1970/2017 (43%, OB, Petite Champagne, for Japan, cask #FB0021, 132 bottles)
They are saying cask power however are actually 43% ‘cask power’? May very well be! The home Godet’s positioned in La Rochelle, on the shores of the Atlantic. Curious to strive some cognac chosen by some Japanese consultants (specifically the corporate 99 Bottles Co., ltd) Color: pure gold. Nostril: whether or not you agree or not, 43% is less complicated and friendlier than 66.6%. Distinctive acacia honey, dandelions, golden sultanas, preserved mirabelles and Sauternes. That is roughly it, however I like this simple, recent, fragrant nostril. Mouth: alert! Warning! This drinks too nicely! Unimaginable easiness, between Sauternes certainly and a candy Jurançon, and even one thing by Alois Kracher. Hope these gorgeous wines will make a comeback quickly. So, syrup in your glass, nectar, honeys, orange liqueur, valuable meads… This isn’t cognac, it is liquid sin. Wonderful toasted brioches within the background, with a drizzle of maple syrup and apple wine. I imply, Canadian frozen apple wine, one other sin. End: medium, clear, recent, immensely fragrant and, as we are saying in Alsatian, ‘rutschig’. Feedback: rutschig simply signifies that it drinks too nicely. They need to add warning stickers to the bottles.
SGP:741 – 91 factors. |
|
Good, since we’re in 1970…
|
|
|
Maison Tribot ‘V.70 A.51’ (50.3%, Outdated Grasp Spirits, for Australia, Grande Champagne, 120 bottles, +/-2021)
So 51 years outdated, classic 1970. I believe it’s the first time I am making an attempt a cognac from this outdated little home Tribot, all that because of some mates in Australia. Color: deep gold. Nostril: some firmness right here, hints of calvados, then leaves and stems, then golden raisins, then honeys and varied dried and preserved fruits. It by no means stops getting fruitier and extra fragrant. Superior notes of peaches and apricots, recent, overripe and preserved. Excellent improvement, from barely robust to virtually extravagant. With water: maintain on, what a gorgeous natural unfolding! Parsley and coriander, then tins and cash, apple peel, dunnage and damp cellar, contact of camphor, marrow, white truffle, cigar ashes, a tiny drop of aged balsamico… Wow, a couple of drops of water unlocked an entire new world of aromas! Mouth (neat): I do not suppose this wants any water this time. Splendidly caky and gritty on the similar time, then on liquorice and tobacco, with a contact of menthol. Oh there… With water: no, water is essential, it might unleash strictly all honeys and dried fruits of the creation. End: medium, honey, peaches, oranges. Feedback: not many aged spirits can beat this nowadays. Outdated Macallans are in sight (Nineteen Fifties). One factor although, don’t forget so as to add a couple of drops of H2O, even when it was bottled barely above 50% vol.
SGP:651 – 93 factors. |
|
Good, let’s cease this on a super-high observe. What a session! Subsequent Sunday we’ll go additional down the vintages, method down… See you, à la prochaine.
|
|
(Mille mercis Dani, Hideo, Nicolas)
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
