Every time I consider my early days of critically exploring whisk(e)y and different spirits, few recollections of Cognac would resurface. This was the case since Scotch and Cognac have been seen as essentially the most premium brown spirits in my youth, so there was an ingrained curiosity – and, I assume, a bias – in direction of them.
Tesseron was the primary Cognac I encountered that wasn’t made by the massive 4 (Remy, Hennessy, Martell, and Courvoisier). One of many early native speakeasy bars referred to as ABV had a bottle of Tesseron Lot No 90, which was advisable by the bar proprietor. This additionally makes it the primary one I attempted that wasn’t only a VS, VSOP, or XO. He advised me that he turned conscious of the model by information of the wine critic Robert Parker, who gave the Tesseron Lot No 29 a rating of 100 in 2005.
I didn’t get to strive Lot No 29, because the bar didn’t have it. However I did have a style of the Lot No 90; which I’ve fully forgotten by now. That will have been my first time listening to of an skilled or a critic deviating from his or her recognized class. That single reminiscence has made me interested in Tesseron ever since. It’s humorous how booze is normally drunk to make folks neglect… but for some it’s a instrument for remembering.
With the understanding of Cognac being much less in depth then, I used to be advised that “Heaps” in Cognac are considerably of a stand-in for vintages. Which meant – to me, at the moment – that Lot No 29 had Cognac from 1929. Which is astounding, as that is pre-World Conflict II. I additionally assumed this was what Robert Parker was considering. So, part of me puzzled then if his rating ought to have been taken critically since he was recognized to be a wine skilled and never a Cognac skilled. As a result of – skilled or not – the concept the Cognac had a distillate from 1929 in it could astound anyone.
Fortunately, Cognac Skilled got here out with a weblog submit that shed extra gentle relating to Cognac’s guidelines on age statements. Apparently, a Cognac producer can use the classic of distillation so long as they’re 100% sure of the traceability of the Cognac, and have all the documentation to show it. In the event that they don’t have the paperwork however wish to point out the age and keep throughout the guidelines, they use the Lot quantity.
Utilizing 1929 for example: tons will be expressed as L29, L 29, L.29, Lot 29 or Lot No 29.However this leaves the client to determine what these imply. Nevertheless, with a little bit of asking and digging, it may be assumed that the quantity refers back to the 12 months of distillation.
With that, it’s time for us to see if Tesseron’s Lot 29 – which is claimed to be all Cognac from 1929 – solely deserves or is near the 100 factors it was awarded to by Robert Parker. This 50ml pattern bottle got here from a Tesseron XO pattern pack offered by Cognac Skilled for €79.
Tesseron Lot No 29 XO Exception Cognac – Overview
40% ABV. €519 on Cognac Skilled. £510 on The Whisky Alternate. $599.99 on Okay&L Wines.
(Freshly poured)
Shade: coconut sugar syrup
On the nostril: A symphony of floral, fruity, and tannic aromas. I get gentle to medium-intense, delicate, and full aromas of dried apricots, freshly baked brioche, mocha, chocolate milk, Thompson grapes, pears, figs, peaches, and plums.
Within the mouth: Simply a direct slap of tannins adopted by barely much less pronounced fruity and floral notes. I get gentle and delicate tastes of dried apricots, peaches, milk chocolate, mocha, cinnamon, a bunch of purple fruits like roasted grapes, beets, figs, purple dragon fruit and freshly baked brioche.
Conclusions:
That is surprisingly not as tannic as I imagined it could be on account of how outdated it’s. I’m assuming the copious quantities of fruit are the distillate’s flavors combined with the cask affect. They’re nonetheless shockingly delicate and expressive for the way outdated they’re, to the purpose I’d say the distillates on this are far more expressive than modern straight bourbon.
Which makes me surprise a couple of issues, similar to: what’s the precise age of those releases? Are all of them bottled on the similar age or do batches differ? Have they stopped growing old these in oak barrels? How a lot of those are nonetheless being aged in oak and the way a lot of the contents are being saved in demi-johns (glass jars for storing brandy)?
How a lot of those did they initially have and the way a lot are left? How typically do they bottle these? Based mostly on the date Robert Parker scored this, it’s been round since 2005, in order that’s a minimum of 17 years of this expression being round.
I’m not saying I don’t consider that these are from 1929. That’s a protracted, very long time to maintain information. It’s even tougher to maintain paperwork from Cognac after the area went by Nazi occupation in World Conflict II. There’s simply not that a lot info on this on-line that lastly tasting this has led me to ask extra questions on it.
All-in-all a very good Cognac no matter value. This must be one thing the age-conscious drinkers ought to strive, to not solely get a greater grasp of what loooooong growing old can do but additionally, in the event that they wish to style one thing historic on the subject of how saturated and dear whisky has turn into.
Rating: 7/10
(8 if the worth isn’t thought-about)
(tasted once more after half-hour of respiration)
Shade: Coconut sugar syrup.
On the nostril: The astringency of the tannins is extra evident. The aromas’ sensations are additionally thinner. It’s just like the oxygen has diluted how potent the notes are. I nonetheless get dried apricots, pears, cinnamon, mocha, and milk chocolate. However these are means lighter and thinner. They aren’t as lasting when put next with the freshly poured dram.
Within the mouth: The tannins are extra evident right here too. I nonetheless get milk chocolate, dried apricots, mocha, cinnamon, roasted grapes and peaches. However, like on the nostril, these have turn into lighter and thinner. Respiratory hasn’t lessened how lengthy the end lasts although.
Conclusion:
I let this breathe for half-hour as a result of I assume it’s outdated. However I assume this is among the few instances whereby the spirit may very well be too outdated that it has turn into fragile, sort of like an outdated man being toppled over by a powerful gust of wind. I’m going to drink this pattern rapidly earlier than it goes dangerous within the pattern bottle.
Rating: 5/10
(6 if value isn’t thought-about)
