Fifty years in the past, most French loved rosé throughout summer season holidays. And the remainder of the 12 months, it was a useless class, forgotten for months till the seashores opened as soon as extra. No less than, that’s in response to Olivier Fayard, a second-generation winemaker at Sainte Marguerite en Provence. Fayard’s father began with three hectares to supply his personal tackle a lighter, practically clear rosé. Growth has been gradual however constant within the many years following, and Sainte Marguerite now grows throughout practically 300 hectares of their very own vineyards.
Olivier works with two of his three siblings as Wine Operations Lead, persevering with their father’s imaginative and prescient to convey rosé past the occasional vacation beverage. In 2022, the household bought a majority stake within the vineyard to Pernod Ricard, with the three siblings staying on to take care of their roles. Pernod just lately introduced they’ll be launching Sainte Marguerite rosé throughout america for the primary time.
Drinkhacker just lately sat down with Olivier to debate his household’s mission, the pressures and benefits of second-generation winemaking, and why rosé would possibly look very completely different within the many years to come back.
Be aware: This interview has been edited for readability.
Drinkhacker: For individuals who aren’t aware of your wines, how would you describe your home model?
Olivier Fayard: It’s a particular Provence model. It’s the South of France model. We reside in part of France that’s enjoyable, it’s simple to reside there. We’re very near the ocean. The summer season may be very lengthy, like in California or Florida. And I need to emphasize that years in the past, you’d come to the South of France, and also you’d keep for a month or two, and also you’re ingesting rosé. Then after you left, you’d neglect about it. You’d assume that wine was simply pink or white.
So rosé was the wine you drink whereas on vacation. It’s a lot greater than that, although! And other people have come round, assume what number of extra folks drink rosé now in comparison with 46 years in the past! However we need to present folks that rosé is adaptable, it’s simple, it’s one thing you possibly can drink virtually any time and with virtually any meals. The model we purpose for is adaptable and refreshing!
Drinkhacker: What are your day-to-day tasks as operations lead?
Olivier Fayard: I’ve plenty of tasks. However for me, crucial factor is that I drive the winery. As a result of for me for those who don’t have good grapes, you can’t make good wine. So whereas there are plenty of issues I do from rising to reap to really producing the wine with my brother, driving the vineyards is my favourite factor and my fundamental focus. We’ve got much more land than we used to!
Drinkhacker: Are there benefits to being a second era winemaker? Or added pressures?
Olivier Fayard: My father got here right here from the middle of France 46 years in the past. When he arrived, he had three sons. My sister was born six years later. And rosé was neglected then! Folks mentioned, “Nobody drinks rosé exterior of trip, exterior of the summer season.” However he knew — and I knew — that rosé is a extremely good wine! You can also make a very nice rosé. And he dreamt of constructing nice rosé in Provence.
He determined to place in that work, to place in that lengthy dedication. He constructed that over a few years, what now we have now. And now being the second era, it’s simpler since you develop up round it, and sooner or later you determine to proceed this journey. It’s a kind of partnership with our father. But it surely’s very fascinating as a result of we change loads; there’s a dynamic of the youthful era, the drive to maneuver and alter, with the expertise of the older era.
You have got the push of the youthful era, which desires to attempt new issues. They’re dynamic. They need to innovate, to attempt new issues. And you’ve got the expertise of the older, which has a sure method of doing issues. And it’s a steadiness, particularly within the household, however I believe it really works properly since you want each of these views. It’s actually a household enterprise on the finish of the day.
My father retired final 12 months, however he nonetheless checks in, he likes to see how we’re doing issues and provides his ideas regardless that technically he doesn’t work anymore. *laughs*
Drinkhacker: Are there any improvements or expressions you’re enthusiastic about for the way forward for Sainte Marguerite en Provence?
Olivier Fayard: What I’m most enthusiastic about is rising distribution and reaching new audiences for our two cuvees: Symphonie and Fantastique. We need to preserve excessive requirements, from the standard and elegance of the wines, dedication to viticultural practices…to the imaginative and prescient of a contemporary Provence.
Drinkhacker: How do you assume winemaking goes to alter within the subsequent 10 or 20 years?
Olivier Fayard: In wine, particularly in rosé, there have been huge modifications — and I’d say enhancements — in 46 years. That looks as if a very long time, however a lot modified, that it was really fairly quick.
Provence is that this dynamic, thrilling place in wine. It feels as thrilling because it has ever been. I believe we are able to progress once more, to push new expressions and new methods of desirous about and having fun with wine. That entails testing new blends, new grapes, new every thing. Particularly the blends, I’m enthusiastic about that, to push what folks assume rosé may be. We’ve got some expressions which can be so mild, so clear, that folks assume, “This may’t be rosé!” However it’s, and it’s nice, they usually’re a few of our hottest, finest wines.
We’ve got to be prepared for something and every thing to alter. My grandmother used to say, for those who assume you might be in steadiness, you’re flawed. You possibly can go up, you possibly can go down, however you possibly can by no means actually keep the identical. And if you assume you’ve arrived at a vacation spot or purpose, it shifts. My brother, sister, and I all work collectively to make the wine, and we deal with winemaking like that. Issues are completely different than they have been 46 years in the past, they usually’ll be a lot completely different than now sooner or later.
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