Stefan Neumann MS has spent nearly 20 years on the earth of Michelin-starred eating places, most lately as director of wine at two Michelin star Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, in London. He began his personal wine consultancy in 2021 connecting the appropriate wine with the appropriate individuals; typically to help with cellar administration and wine funding. Stefan additionally consults for Fells, UK importer for prestigious family-owned wineries similar to Symington Household Estates.
What when you might journey again in time? Would you dare to strive wines made in Bordeaux earlier than the 1855 Classification got here into place? Truly you will get a style of this historic fashion with out in search of out your nearest time machine as, again within the day, claret was typically primarily based on Malbec, or had a excessive proportion within the last mix.
I first discovered this on a visit to Mendoza, many moons in the past. It wanted a second push, however after I visited Margaret River in Western Australia earlier this yr it grew to become evident to me that Cabernet-Malbec blends characterize the proper ‘marriage’ of two grape varieties.
Margaret River and Mendoza boast a singular heritage of each varieties, every area with its personal story to inform. Within the case of Mendoza, the vines are sometimes ungrafted and grown in excessive situations. An altitude of 1,000 metres above sea stage in poor soils with a excessive daylight depth and a shortage of water isn’t any stroll within the park; however the strongest metal is made within the hottest fireplace.
Maritime in local weather, Margaret River enjoys close-to-perfect rising situations – the largest problem is usually the inhabitants of native birds, which prefer to snack on the grapes at harvest time.
Common double act
So why my love for this mix? Why do I consider they’re the King and Queen of the wine world. Cabernet offers an exquisite construction and framework, giving loads of darkish fruit with a lifted, spicy be aware. Malbec enters the stage in a different way, complementing the mix with a floral character, typically violet, and has a persistent, delicate drive and power. I discover Cabernet extra upfront on the palate, whereas Malbec is the light big, showing extra on the mid-palate and end.
It’s the concord in a wine when these two varieties meet that I discover irresistible. In some way these wines handle to get this balancing act of energy, finesse and utter deliciousness excellent, classic after classic.
Unsurprisingly, I discover nice pleasure in opening these to accompany purple meat, but you’ll be able to experiment with equally thrilling meals pairings. Out of your very personal greatest model of a ratatouille to stuffed peppers and aubergines, these blends can simply take care of a little bit of spice, too. Pour a glass with lamb samosas or stews like a Brazilian feijoada.
Now it’s as much as you to hunt out a style of historical past, and what higher manner to do that than with a glass of wine. Hunt down a Cabernet-Malbec mix – maybe a kind of advisable under – and uncover a mode that’s sturdy, harmonious and ideal for these winter months.
Neumann’s choose: Cabernet-Malbec blends
Vasse Felix, Tom Cullity, Margaret River 2018 (82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot; the 2017 classic is barely increased in Cabernet, £109 Australian Wines On-line) is perfumed and actually inviting, loaded with blue and purple fruits and a delicate bergamot be aware. Fastidiously crafted by Virginia Willcock and her crew since 2013 from among the oldest and most valuable plots on this stunning Western Australian property.
The Nicolás Catena Zapata, Mendoza 2017 from Argentina (59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Malbec, 8% Cabernet Franc; £67 Berry Bros & Rudd) has a darker fruit scent, and I really like the candy, spicy, barely earthy nostril. Like a world-class ballerina: energy and beauty, with an ethereal high quality. That is Dr Laura Catena’s favorite classic of this wine since 1995, and I couldn’t agree extra!
